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RobH

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About RobH

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  • Location
    Newbury, Berkshire
  • Cars Owned:
    TR3A
    MG M type
    ex-TR7
    ex- AH Sprite
    ex- Saab 900turbo
    ex- an assortment of 'grey porridge'

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  1. No it makes no difference Colin. The only thing that determines relative rotational speed is the diameter of the pulleys.
  2. I wasn't getting at you - just saying that someone on e-bay has a nice little earner for not much work.
  3. That is a standard rigging turnbuckle that has had part of the fork lopped off at one end Ian. Cheaper here but you have to do the lopping yourself: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stainless-Turnbuckle-SENRISE-Closed-Rigging/dp/B07RZ77QSN/ref=sr_1_50?dchild=1&keywords=turnbuckle+rigging+tensioner&qid=1603805535&sr=8-50
  4. Unlikely to be adjustment. Provided the pistons are free it's as George says - much more likely a sticking choke linkage or split diaphragm.
  5. Yes but that was when it was running OK Pete. Now it isn't.......
  6. I think that sounds as though it is over-rich. What colour are the plugs?
  7. A simple check is to take the air cleaner off and push the pistons up with your finger Pete. You should feel the resistance due to the damper oil as they raise but they should raise fully and then drop easily with no sticking when you let go. What exactly do you mean when you say the car 'barely starts' ? Does it stall again as if running out of fuel or just about keep chugging but refusing to rev? Bear in mind the possibility that under Sod's law, this fault may be a co-incidence entirely unrelated to anything you have done.
  8. Agreed - when I did this some years ago I used a duff modern control-box and kept the original Lucas one. The empty box makes a good place to hide a four-way auxiliary fuse block.
  9. No it doesn't really matter John, as I said that is is one way of doing it and there are several others. There is no need for an earth any more so another option is instead of putting the two yellow wires on the same F terminal to make the connection as I have shown, you could link F to E in the control box and put one yellow wire on each if you wanted. As long as those two wires are connected together - and not to anything else. Leaving the E terminal free does give you somewhere to park the old earth wire. It doesn't do anything any more but it saves cutting it off or tucking
  10. Since the answer was via PM, for completeness and the benefit of anyone searching this topic in the future one possible way of doing it is this. The wiring arrangement shown is for standard TR2-4A. Bear in mind that the car may have had extra connections added over the years or the wiring colours may not be exactly as shown here. I seem to recall that with judicious cutting and bending and a little soldering it is possible to re-arrange the existing control-box internal links into the new arrangement, rather than to replace them completely.
  11. If by 'stationary' you mean that is the battery voltage with the engine off - it could be your voltmeter is over-reading as the battery shouldn't be that high. A fully charged lead-acid battery should not exceed 12.8v when off load. If your meter does overread by 0.7 v that reading of 15.4v when on charge may actually only be 14.7v, which is normal for an alternator intended to charge 'calcium' batteries which need a bit more than straight lead-acid.
  12. Well to check the ammeter you will need suitable loads as you say Andrew. It isn't a precision meter so any readings will be fairly approximate. The easiest loads to use are probably headlamp bulbs. A 60W bulb will draw 5A from a fully-charged car battery so if you have a couple of those you can check at 5 and 10 Amps. Reversing the meter connections will check both charge and discharge directions. It might be an idea to make the battery connection through a 20A fuse to prevent calamities. Connect battery + to one end of the ammeter through the fuse, connect the other ammete
  13. Quite right Bob - wording amended. The colours were not supposed to reflect the actual ones - it's much too difficult to draw colour stripes unless you spend a lot of time messing about . It was just to show the general connection arrangement.
  14. Do you mean when installed in the car Andrew or as a stand-alone meter?
  15. Marco is right - don't forget that all the circuits are fed to and switched at the dashboard. The ammeter usually only has current going through it when the battery is charging immediately after starting. The other circuits can carry current all the time. If you are concerned, the right thing to do is fit more fuses.
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