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RobH last won the day on January 7

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About RobH

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  • Location
    Newbury, Berkshire
  • Cars Owned:
    MG M type
    ex- AH Sprite
    ex- Saab 900turbo
    ex- an assortment of 'grey porridge'

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  1. Can I suggest it might be a good idea to 'pin' that thread so the unwary can see it in future? That might save someone else from being caught.
  2. RobH

    Car lifts

    Do you mean this one Michael?
  3. RobH


    Fernox Alphi-11 is recommended by some. It has been discussed here before: https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/49908-antifreeze/ (post by Grease monkey about 2/3 down the page) https://fernox.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2017/12/alphi_11_5l_v.002.pdf
  4. RobH


    Not advised by the FBHVC. To quote from their press release advice: " OAT was introduced in the mid-1990s and the products are biodegradable, recyclable and do not contain either silicates or phosphates and are designed to be longer lasting. However these products do seem to cause problems in older engines; over and above the ability of antifreeze to find the smallest crevice and leak, OAT antifreezes have been accused of destroying seals and gaskets and causing a great deal of damage in ‘old’ engines. For this reason the manufacturers do not recommend their use in historic vehicles."
  5. Lincon batteries are OK - I bought one a couple of years ago for my vintage car, not the TR. That link to Lincon above and Deggers' post says they supply the acid mix separate from the battery. They certainly used to do that but following recent legislation it is illegal now unless you have a special licence to hold poisons and explosives. I think many companies are now supplying the batteries filled, but that makes problems for carriage.
  6. The different advance curves for the dizzies are documented in this link: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B2H2NJt34OffMDVmOTZlZWItYTcyMy00ZDhkLTliOWEtOWU1OWRhNDZhYmRl 13 rows down
  7. If you wire it as per the original system, so that the original starter solenoid still does all the switching, you already have a relay.
  8. There won't be enough diameter left for a 5/16 thread if the M8 has been completely worn away Paul. The core diameter of an M8 x 1 thread is only 6.59mm or just over 1/4 inch. If you cut that at 5/16 the thread will be vestigial and very weak. If you went down to 1/4 for which there is enough material, a fine thread would leave slightly more core diameter. I think if it was mine I would try to make up a clamp fitting instead.
  9. Since, at the time, Renault were known for things like the Dauphine I have to agree Hamish.
  10. You may jest but many many years ago a friend of mine, who rated himself as an electronics whizz, built a car alarm and immobiliser for his then brand-new Ford Corsair. He made the mistake of using an SCR as part of the circuit (Silicon Controlled Rectifier - a relatively uncommon component back then) but without knowing enough about its characteristics. He demonstrated his car to us and deliberately operated the alarm, at which point the cabin filled with white smoke as the SCR locked on and fried the wiring loom. It would certainly act as a theft deterrent but perhaps not in the way he intended. Only frantic disconnection of the car battery prevented the vehicle ending up as shown in Tom's picture.
  11. Letting the smoke out is half the fun Roger - and really it's the only way you learn. Don't make it too complicated. Simple is best.
  12. Ok apologies - the drawing Mark posted does show a bolt with a dog though.
  13. You are misinterpreting the drawing Mark - they've just shown it separately for clarity. It fits right through the fan extension with the head at the front of the fan.
  14. On the 3A there is an earth braid between the engine and the body by the left hand front engine mount. If that isn't there then return current from the starter motor has to find its way back via various odd paths like the throttle linkage, which isn't a good idea........
  15. Maybe not the battery. When the voltage was low there would be a full charge shown on the ammeter all the time, so from the described symptoms it sounds as though the alternator isn't always working properly. I guess the alternator was tested off the car Paul? If so there is a possibility that something in the car wiring isn't right which stops it operating. One possibility is that in order for the alternator to 'start up' there has to be a current supplied to it via the ignition light on the dash. If that connection isn't right or if the bulb is making a poor contact you might get the symptoms described. Some people have had trouble by swapping that bulb to an LED and have needed to put a resistor into the circuit just to provide sufficient current.
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