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RobH

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About RobH

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  • Location
    Newbury, Berkshire
  • Cars Owned:
    TR3A
    MG M type
    ex-TR7
    ex- AH Sprite
    ex- Saab 900turbo
    ex- an assortment of 'grey porridge'

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  1. Ah - OK. That is a Lucas ACR pattern alternator. The continuity tests you are doing are finding return paths through equipment in the car which is why it looks as though the positive lead goes to earth. It is not a meaningful reading. You say the reversing light works - which is an indication that the battery is OK but more than that depends on where it is connected and whether it is switched by the ignition switch. The fact the oil light comes on with the ignition shows there is power to the switch and that the switch is working. It should also feed power to the ignition light
  2. That's because it is a worm drive. You can't drive them backwards.
  3. I take it this is a single-speed DR3 motor. The high current is probably due to the motor being 'stalled' - as it runs it develops a back-emf which reduces the current but without that there is only the DC resistance of the armature winding. If not mechanically stuck, it could be that the field winding is disconnected in some way. The armature will still pull a high current but the motor will not rotate. You could check that by lifting one of the brushes - the high current should drop but there should still be a small current taken by the field. If there is no current the field is op
  4. It isn't exactly clear to me what you are doing with these 'continuity' tests nor why you are doing them. Depending on what you are using to do the measurement you may get all sorts of weird results, because everything is connected to everything else in some way and an over- sensitive meter can show connection where the path is rather tenuous. The best instrument for electrical fault-finding on a car is a small 12v bulb with wires attached. You say there is 'no switching from the relay' - what relay is that? Do you mean the starter solenoid? It's also not clear what type of
  5. Welcome to the forums Shaun. No doubt someone will be along soon with an up-to-date answer but in the mean time there have been several discussions about this colour in the past as a forum search will show, e.g. : - (click on the arrow top right to see it)
  6. It's a bit late now to point out that you should have labelled them before you disconnected Richard ! Black is earth, green is probably the indicator lamp and red is the side-light. I expect red goes to red and green goes to green/white at the connectors near the RH horn.
  7. It is counter-intuitive but there is really no danger from electrics being inside the petrol tank as long as here is liquid petrol in there too. I have posted this before: Liquid petrol itself does not burn so although it sounds completely wrong, immersing electrics in petrol is really quite safe. it's the vapour that is flammable but that is only over a very restricted range of fuel/air mixes - 1.4 to 7.6 % petrol to air by volume or thereabouts. Usually the vapour concentration in the tank is very much greater than that so there is no risk of fire from the sender. The parti
  8. ...or a UK source : http://www.repairkitsuk.com/kit-details/
  9. It's tight Rob. Depends on how much clearance you have between the bell-housing and the bulkhead. I could just get a reversed thin spanner in there on my car and move the nut one flat at a time, but yours may be different. I think some people even resort to making an access hole in the transmission tunnel which allows a socket with long extension to fit- perhaps your car already has one since the PO must have fitted the starter in the first place? When replacing the motor on some you can reverse the front plate, so the stud is at the bottom.
  10. As long as it isn't actually a Boojum.
  11. Powerlite so probably an RAC 102. https://www.powerlite-units.com/high-torque-starter-motors.html The cylindrical thing on the top is another solenoid, which throws the pinion into gear and at full travel 'makes' an internal high-current contact to power the starter itself. There have been instances of the internal contacts failing, the pinion getting damaged and the external link wire failing. I believe Powerlite are good at providing spares and support. edit - Snap!
  12. HI Rob thanks so much for the info   my leak is coming from the top so I suppose I should try and clean well and seal .I havnt used the car really for three years .iam determined to use it this summer  and it's good to go after a bit of work  this winter,  grrr a bit upset this has cropped up but carry on regardless 

    Many thanks again David 

     

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