RobH

If the stud is the threaded-in type and the nut is just spinning without undoing, does that not mean that the stud has come un-screwed from the hub and is now free? Presumably the only thing stopping it coming out is the locating flange being too wide to come through the hole in the wheel. If that is the case, surely removing the other three wheelnuts will allow the wheel to be taken off complete with that stud. Worst case would be if it is the later press-fit type of stud and the spline is no longer gripping.

Not into the oil galleries though - just into the crankcase. Just put screws in the holes.

Well not in a TR Charlie, but back in the '70s I had one in my AH Sprite. Couldn't afford a 'leccy one.

Decadence ! This is a sidescreen car . A period radio would be manually-tuned and any clock would be wind-up. Seriously, if you leave something like that connected you haven't really isolated all the electrics, so it depends on what you are trying to achieve. If there is a radio which needs continuous power you can't put the battery switch in the earth lead because the radio probably earths through its mounting bracket.

The switch has two separate functions. The heavy connections are to isolate the battery from the electrical system, but that won't stop the engine if it is running since the alternator will continue to supply power to the car, and if that is the case it will also be powering any electrical short that might have occurred. The smaller contacts are intended to be wired into the ignition system so that switching off also removes power from that circuit so stopping the engine and any output from the alternator. The contacts labelled '1' are closed with the switch off and open with it on. The

I doubt there is anything much between the two Richard. Both Durite and Ripca/Ripault are reputable.

This is a bit of a 'can-of-worms'. The coil has one end of the primary winding connected to the HT winding and is meant to operate with that connection point going to the distributor. That increases the output voltage by a few hundred volts because when the points open, the windings are in series so back-emf in the primary adds to that of the secondary. By swapping the connections of the coil over, you lose that small boost because the connection point is held at 12v above earth. What this means is that in correcting things to get the right spark polarity , you alter the operation o

I understand that this is due to the cursory way the survey is often done these days- basically just a tick-the-box form from a quick visual, sometimes even just from photos rather than a physical check. The person doing the survey is paid by the insurance company and time is money. You don't have to accept what the insurance company says and can challenge the assessment but you would need to hire your own engineer to do another survey and prepare a report. I'm not sure how that would work if you don't actually own the car though.

Another thing you will need to change if you are swapping polarity is the instrument voltage stabiliser if that is a modern electronic type rather than the original bimetallic. You can get away with not changing the wiring on the control box as long as you just insulate the dynamo ends of the dynamo leads and take off the earth connection from E on the control box. The box can't then do anything even though it remains connected. You would need to connect the alternator field wire to D so it picks up the ignition lamp connection and find a way of connecting the alternator outpu

This is one way to do it using the RB106 as a junction box with its internals removed and the three large spade terminals A1, A and D connected together with a heavy gauge link wire under the base. There is no connection to E. F is used just as a junction point. (Note that the D and F terminals are shown in the wrong order, for clarity in the drawing )

To be honest that looks more of a crack than anything. The ends don't look melted. There is blackening at the LH end of that link though.

All the best Waldi.

MHR Bob.

The choke mechanism certainly shouldn't be wet with fuel - and neither should the vacuum advance pipe. These are possibly signs of the jet overflowing due to too high a fuel level in the float chamber. If the mixture is way too rich the engine won't fire.

If you couldn't see any fuel in the jet it might be a clue as to why the engine stops Nick. Perhaps it has used up all that was there? You can usually see the glint of the liquid if you shine a torch down the hole. The float chamber might be full but if fuel isn't getting through to the jet properly, it can't run. After all, that is the thing you have been working on and sudden onset of a new fault afterwards might be a pointer to all not being well.........?.