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RobH

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About RobH

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  • Location
    Newbury, Berkshire
  • Cars Owned:
    TR3A
    MG M type
    ex-TR7
    ex- AH Sprite
    ex- Saab 900turbo
    ex- an assortment of 'grey porridge'

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  1. Welcome to the forums Mel. The early cars had a two-piece gearlever where the shaft (12) screws into the 'ball end' (13) - could yours have become disconnected? The ball end itself and the cap (18) are retained by a through bolt (19/20)
  2. The rad can't get much hotter than 100ºC and normal running temperature would be around 85-90 so that new pipe must be rubbish. If you buy or borrow an infrared thermometer you can check the temperature of the cylinder head. (Don't use the rad - those thermometers don't read properly on shiny metal). Does your fuel gauge read correctly? If not the instrument voltage stabiliser may have failed, giving high temp and fuel readings.
  3. Welcome to the forums Jonathan. Have you removed the inlet manifold to check there is no obstruction in the air-way? I seem to remember an instance of someone discovering a rag stopper in there, left by mistake after some head work. Of course, another possibility is that the inlet valve isn't opening properly.
  4. The COMEX fans that Revotec sell come in a variety of sizes but the High Power models draw around 9-10A when running so the stall current could be up to twice that. The slim-line range are lower power so take about 7-8A running.
  5. RobH

    -VE Earthing

    Er - the 'manky length of naked mesh' (actually braided cable) was used deliberately, because it is very flexible John. The engine wobbles about quite a bit so If you use cable which is too stiff the repeated slight bending will fracture it in time. If you do use starter cable, pick the more flexible type with lots of small conductors (or even better use rubber-sheathed welding cable) and try to install it so there is a loop which can flex rather than it having to bend where it exits the lugs. The weakest point is where the bare cable conductor exits the lug. This area should be sl
  6. That really depends on the fan Niall. All motors take a higher current when starting up than they do when running but the size of the current peak will depend on the design of the motor. If you don't have the maker's recommendation for a fuse I would use 20A. Those relays use a modern blade fuse so that means it can take 20A continuously which should be ample to allow for starting surge and is still be low enough to blow reasonably quickly in event of a short-circuit fault - -40A will blow that fuse in a second or so. ( If you want to do it scientifically and have suitable equi
  7. Yes I believe it will - at least as long as the thermostat is still open. As soon as the engine stops, the water at the top of the engine will continue to heat through heat-soak and convection, so keeping the thermostat open and allowing some degree of thermo-syphoning. The heat loss from the radiator without any draught would be slow but a fan will soon bring it down to the point where the thermostat will close.. ( My 1930 M-type has a SOHC engine with no water pump, fan or thermostat and relies completely on thermo-syphon circulation for cooling. It actually works very well e
  8. There are plastic bodied BAY15D holders - with separate earth wire if that is what you mean: https://www.amazon.co.uk/MASO-Adapter-Connector-Plastic-Accessories/dp/B07T5BGN7W/ref=sr_1_11?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.4k1IOD8g0vRU0m_UQgrQo_0W5AcStjkrkwmAjzGootfuCd2OaS4TjP3jGmXvEWPy1RfDgXUdlJHydz_JO1eK7AM1Hej5eNEaqf_3gmoTPX1uynsDvvseG74UVZc_bCceLHXNjf2mwdH7q3iWNMFRGTekl-MspYo9eVBb0tseSOX4Ivstd0mIsJRmPjZryi42CuClMsli_5sfJDr_tMCn8hZUxiZpuZNNrOewxqkHAjM.1XhuCelxRsiK6sozT6yb6eJ_8HVrStKyha4UZXCyFh4&dib_tag=se&keywords=ba15d+bulb+holder&qid=1718567325&sr=8-11
  9. I think you still have a problem Paul If the test lamp lights at all, there must still be a battery drain somewhere. If it doesn't go out when you disconnect power to the fan circuit, then that one is no longer the culprit - but there must be another circuit leaking current else the lamp will not glow.
  10. R5 / C2 are the timing components Bob. 470k / 1mf. This is the relevant bit Dick - it might be a help if you can say whether you wish to shorten or lengthen the delay time, and by how much.
  11. Yes the horn ought to go to the battery - really via its own fuse. It certainly shouldn't come THROUGH the ignition switch though connecting it at the feed TO the switch is OK.
  12. Depends on what you want - Peter and Ralph described above, the original style sleeved bellows 'stat and you can pay a premium for one of those if you are after originality and haven't yet reduced the bypass-hose hole size. Otherwise any decent brand of waxstat but having been bitten once it might be worth testing it before fitting. Just heat it up in a pan of water on the stove and watch that it opens at around 85ºC , before the water boils.
  13. Firstly Jim, fuses are intended to protect the wiring, so should always be rated to blow at a current lower than the rating of the wire. I know you are looking for numbers but it really isn't as simple as that, as to give them means having to know the current drawn, the type of fuse to be used and the rating of the wiring. All modern blade fuses and US-style glass ones are marked for the highest current they can carry continuously without blowing. I.e. a fuse marked at 10A will carry 10A all day and will only blow if that is exceeded. The time taken to blow depends on the overlo
  14. Personally I would have looked at the thermostat first. Not only is it simpler to get at, a stuck 'stat is more likely to give the symptoms described. Silly question perhaps - but did you fit it the right way round with the capsule towards the cylinder head?
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