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RobH

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About RobH

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  • Location
    Newbury, Berkshire
  • Cars Owned:
    TR3A
    MG M type
    ex-TR7
    ex- AH Sprite
    ex- Saab 900turbo
    ex- an assortment of 'grey porridge'

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  1. That will reduce the maximum fuel flow rate Stuart but I don't believe it will change the pressure, will it ? As I understand it, the fuel pressure is set by the spring inside the pump which returns the diaphragm to the rest position. The arm merely lowers the diaphragm, to suck in more petrol, so spacing the pump means less volume is sucked in. Until the fuel above the diaphragm is used up, the lever arm isn't moving the diaphragm. If the fuel is being used up quickly, the diaphragm is pulled down more often/further to increase the flow.
  2. The pump should deliver between 1.5 to 3.5 psi - no more. According to the Burlen (SU) catalogue the correct needle valve is listed as VZX1101 which has a spring-loaded aluminium bodied needle with Delrin tip and 0.096 bore. The alternative is a WZX1102 which is the same size but without spring loading and with a heavier brass bodied needle. http://sucarb.co.uk/float-chambers-spares/needle-valve-kits/standard-needle-valves.html The WZX1101a appears to be a Unipart after-market part and is not listed in the Burlen book. Afterthought - I understand it is possib
  3. Perhaps an easier way to demonstrate the ammeter is reading correctly is to leave the ignition off and just turn the headlights on main beam. The ammeter should show a discharge of around 10 Amps if you have standard halogen lamps, or a wee bit less if they are BPF.
  4. This is more or less what it looks like inside, though this isn't from a TR. The coil of thick wire is between the two terminals and sets up a magnetic field proportional to the current and its direction of flow. The needle is connected to a piece of magnetic iron which is attracted one way or the other by the field ( the needle is missing on this one but you can see the pivot pin at the top).
  5. Yes a multimeter on the amps range to replace the ammeter should give the true reading as you say. If the ammeter needs a shake to get it to zero it has probably been mechanically bent inside, perhaps from being hammered against the end-stop by a high current ? Again, it is a very simple pointer arrangement inside. Somewhere I have a photo and if I find it I'll post it here.
  6. Not sure what you did there - an ammeter must be in series with the circuit to read. You can't put an ammeter between a live point and earth - it has a very low resistance and will draw a large current (or maybe just blow an internal fuse to protect the meter if it is an electronic device).
  7. Indeed you could. A light is probably a bit OTT considering the racket the fan usually makes.
  8. The brown wires don't go via the ignition switch Oliver, so if this only happens when you switch on, the drain must be on the output side of that switch. If it was a problem on the brown wires it would be there all the time. Something is making the ammeter deflect - usually when you first switch on the current drawn is just that of the ignition circuit which will be about 4 Amps. The ammeter is really just a single loop of thick-ish wire and it is pretty difficult to think of any fault which will increase its sensitivity.
  9. You don't need a ground (earth) connection on the ammeter Oliver. If the ammeter shows a full-scale discharge as soon as you turn the ignition on(without cranking the engine) , there is a fairly major problem somewhere. There is no fuse protection for the circuitry before the ignition switch so you need to sort this as a matter of urgency before something catastrophic happens. There aren't many things which can do this - the obvious thing to suspect is a short-circuit of course. I suggest you pull both white wires from the fuse terminal A3 as a start and see whether the discharge disa
  10. John - that Durite switch seems to connect the earthy side of the lamp through the switch mounting arrangement rather than through a separate wire. Unfortunately that means the alternative connection I showed in the post above will not work. Your options are either to fit an alternative type of illuminated switch with a separate connection, or to remove/ignore the lamp from the one you have and fit a separate warning lamp.
  11. You can't really do anything if the lamp is an LED and the switch is in the earth line, as the 'fix' is to reverse the lamp polarity so it is wired to supply instead of to earth - but an LED only works one way round. It would be possible if the lamp is an incandescent bulb but again only if the lamp connection is made via a wire and not through the switch body :
  12. Ah - you didn't show that lamp in your original diagram - it complicates things a bit. If the lamp is internal to the switch it will be wired expecting the switch to be in the live supply rather than the earth line, so now it isn't getting enough power to work because the current is coming via the relay coil. It might be possible to re-arrange things so the lamp works, but not possible if the earth connection for the lamp is made directly through the switch mounting arrangement. Do you know the switch details or do you have a picture of it? Is the lamp a conventional bulb or an L
  13. Tony, please refer to my post of yesterday, 6 above yours.
  14. The feed to the solenoid is the pick-off point for the electrics on a sidescreen car Hamish. It doesn't all go through the solenoid, it is just used as a convenient junction point.
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