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About RobH

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  • Location
    Newbury, Berkshire
  • Cars Owned:
    MG M type

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  1. "pressure is necessary to make a fluid flow. So without pressure: No flow at all." Well I know what you mean Johannes but that is not really true - it's actually the other way around. Pressure results from a restriction of flow. If you ran the pump with nothing attached to its output there would be plenty of flow but no pressure. Its the restriction due to tight clearances in the bearings which produces the pressure at the pump by reducing the flow.
  2. In my impecunious youth I made the mistake of buying a Sinclair 'Black Watch' kit. This was when LED watches were new and trendy but very expensive. The Sinclair kit was at least affordable but needless to say the thing was a disaster. As with all LED watches the display was power-hungry so you had to press a button to light it. Not only did the press buttons regularly fail to work, the case used to self-destruct too at intervals.
  3. As Roger says, Myford sold the company to RDG and all the bits are still available. Unlike my 1934 flat-bed Drummond which is sadly in need of a new leadscrew.....
  4. A good idea perhaps on first sight but complicated to implement Dave. The voltage coming from the fan will vary greatly with speed and you would need some sort of DC to DC converter which would accept that varying input and produce a meaningful steady regulated output suitable to charge the battery. Such things do exist but you then need circuitry to switch it on only when the input reached an acceptable level. A further complication is that normally the battery is fully charged anyway from the dynamo or alternator so there may not be anywhere for the fan output to go. You could of course provide it with its own battery to charge, separate from that of the car. The next factor is that you don't get something for nothing and the energy taken from the fan to provide any charge must come from the energy developed by the engine to move the car. You would actually be adding slightly to air resistance, so since nothing is 100% efficient the energy 'saved' would be less than the extra energy expended. The only time you might get savings would be on the overrun when slowing down.
  5. "The speed it reaches can exceed the bearing ratings and shorten there life" I'm not convinced about that given the normal running speed of the fan but If it worries you, the fan can be electrically braked by connecting a low value resistance across its feed when it is unpowered. The resistor may get quite hot so needs to be suitably rated. The lower the resistance the greater the braking effect but don't go so low that the current exceeds the motor rating.
  6. Well the density of air reduces by about 18% from 15C to 80C so there is an effect there which may affect cooling by a couple of %. On the other hand the thinner hot air will reduce the efficiency of the fan behind the radiator when its running so that has to be taken into account too.
  7. Errr - very good I suppose, but what the hell did it have to do with Christmas?
  8. To paraphrase an old non-PC couplet: "Twist-drills out of old Hong-Kong, all too frequently go wrong.........."
  9. Duff solenoid then Roy. The click is the solenoid mechanism operating but obviously there is a bad connection in the high-current contacts.
  10. The really clever additive manufacturing 'prints' directly in metal - actually laser sintering - with no need for the casting pattern stage and with minimal machining needed afterwards. Using that technique it is possible to make items with internal features which would be impossible to produce by other means. The limitation is the size of the sintering bed and of course the fearsome cost of the machines. https://www.metal-am.com/introduction-to-metal-additive-manufacturing-and-3d-printing/
  11. So it does look. then. as though the power feed from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid is faulty....
  12. So to recap - you have 12.5v on the red/white wire when disconnected and the key turned. You have 8.3 v on the same wire when connected to the starter and the key turned. That means either the starter solenoid is taking quite a lot of current (and the red/white wire may be getting hot as a consequence) or else you have a poor connection in that line somewhere which is 'dropping' the voltage before it gets to the starter in which case 8.3v may not be sufficient to pull in the starter solenoid. You could check that by making a temporary direct connection from the screw terminal on that solenoid to the battery live terminal in which case the starter should crank if the solenoid an starter are OK.
  13. The wiring schematic shows white/black being used for oil pressure and brake warning lamps - so perhaps that 4-way brake-pipe union should have a pressure switch instead of that plain bolt head, and this is the connection for it ? ( edit- I think you beat me to that Rich...)
  14. Provided you are not now left with a rotating collar on the stud, and that the wheel hole is big enough, you might find something like this will do it: https://www.amazon.co.uk/MultiWare-Sockets-Locking-Remover-Damaged/dp/B01M75BO86/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541072157&sr=8-2&keywords=wheel+nut+extractor Otherwise take the car to the local tyre depot who should have a means of removing it. Either way the wheel might suffer cosmetically.
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