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RobH last won the day on October 15

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About RobH

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  • Location
    Newbury, Berkshire
  • Cars Owned:
    MG M type
    ex- AH Sprite
    ex- Saab 900turbo
    ex- an assortment of 'grey porridge'

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  1. Its connected straight across the dash tell-tale lamp Roger, and just cable-tied to the dash support bracket.
  2. "Covert urinal?" Ceci n'est pas un trou ? (OK that was Dechamps not Magritte but still.......)
  3. I don't like the high-pitched beepers, so fitted one of these (many years ago when you could get them from Maplins): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mini-Buzzer-12V-85dB-SD104-BUY-TWO-AND-GET-A-THIRD-FREE/122830014493?hash=item1c993d481d:g:DSgAAOxy0zhTMAJT It gives a deeper buzzing note rather than a piercing tweet, which I find preferable and which is plenty loud enough even when driving on aeroscreens, which I do all the time.
  4. Ah yes - the beeper doesn't work if the trailer lamps are blown, according to the data sheet so you would need a suitable load on the green and yellow output leads (no need to cut any wires though). As you say - not really worth the effort unless you were going to fit a trailer socket too.
  5. Your priority seems strange Jerry. You go round corners much, much, more frequently than carrying out emergency braking.
  6. Try connecting orange to + and black to earth. If it buzzes you may only need those two across the dash lamp.
  7. Lots of us have done that Roger and a search will bring up several threads on the subject. I'm sure yours can be made to work - do you have any connection details for it? If it's just a beeper It might be as easy as wiring it in parallel with the dash tell-tale, using just one of the 'input' leads (or maybe both in parallel). edit - I've just found the data here: http://www.hammersleys.com/pdf/3870B Professional Audible Sensor.pdf The thing seem to have relay in it as well as a beeper so its a bit more complicated maybe.
  8. I believe the reason for sucking the fumes into the carb to be burned was to meet US emissions regulations Roger, not for efficiency of extraction. The breather pipe on the early cars shouldn't get clogged unless the engine is well past its best (and perhaps only driven for short distances so it never gets really warm). There was a thread on here a little while ago where someone had filters on a catch tank, which didn't work properly. Unfortunately I don't seem to be able to find it.
  9. The inlet manifold connection is for a sealed system where the crankcase fumes are sucked into the carbs for burning. Chris and Andy are describing an open system where the fumes just vent to atmosphere. You don't need a manifold connection for that, just a pipe from the rocker cover outlet to take the fumes to where they can freely dissipate. (with a drip collecting tank if you prefer, but that must be vented)
  10. There's no need for a vacuum connection to a catch tank Roger.
  11. Thanks Stuart. I'll check that first.
  12. I'm seriously considering trying this over the winter. I get engine surge at small throttle openings when negotiating bumpy roads, which I am convinced is caused by engine/body movement pulling on the linkage (and yes the engine mounts are in good condition). A cable would cure that.
  13. The A type OD solenoid has two coils - one a high current winding which does the initial pull-in and a second low current winding which holds it in once operated. There is a switch inside the solenoid which should break the connection to the high current winding when the armature has moved. If the wires were getting hot with your jury-rigged connection, it's probable the solenoid is faulty and the switch is not operating so that the high current flows all the time. If that happens in use the solenoid will burn out and may take the wiring with it.. I can't really comment on your odd voltage reading without knowing what meter you are using and how you had it connected, but it could be that the relay contacts are only making a poor connection and if you had the duff solenoid in circuit it could be pulling the high current so causing a voltage drop.
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