RobH

Yes it did come back briefly but it looks like Craig has more to do....

Unless the tyres are described as tubed type, it is the wheels rather than the tyres which determine whether inner tubes are required. Wheels for tubeless use have two humps in the rim which are supposed to hold the tyre in place in the event of e.g. nudging a kerb at speed, which otherwise could result in deforming the tyre wall enough to cause deflation. The original steel wheels on at least the early TRs do not have this feature so really should be used with tubes. That goes for wire wheels also since the air exits via the spoke holes. Modern wires are sold as tubeless since they h

Yes - all fixed.

Not all of them - recent discussion has revealed that there are permanent magnet version too as people have found when trying to swap working motors from donor vehicles.

Yes same for me. Maybe Craig is doing some updating.

If you are looking for general advice on methods for doing this Steven it has been discussed in numerous threads in the past which include wiring diagrams. A forum search should find these.

Looking at one of the long-running threads, it seems to have been that way for over a year - unless a change has been retrospectively applied..... ?

I think you will find you don't get the month displayed until the post is over a week old Peter. Before that it is listed as 'today', 'yesterday' or by the day of the current week.

A good soaking for some days in a releasing fluid is probably the best bet as a first try. Plus-gas or diesel is good. Not WD40. If it is an original capillary type and not working, it has probably leaked all the ether already so being a bit rough with the sender is not really an issue as it will need to be sent away for repair anyway.

Ask him - if he doesn't do them himself he will probably recommend a good supplier.

As always - the Distributor Doctor.

Ian -Nigel.......You may have overlooked that Jim is in the USA and the rules may be different there.

Unfortunately, as drawn the circuit will not work Jim. That is because the lamp is shown in series with the relay coil whereas it should be in parallel to work on that side of the relay. However, even then it only shows there is power to the relay coil but it might be preferable to show power is going to the lights like this:

Sometimes it's just not your day...........

The original Lucas relay has an internal power link from C2 for its operating coil, instead of having a separate W2 terminal. Using a modern relay you will need to provide an external link for that. i.e. purple lead to 30 also linked to 86. P/B to 85, P/Y to 87. I wonder whether that single P/Y is intended to be the connection to the relay and is looped back in the loom to the double P/Y for the RH horn?