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RobH

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  • Location
    Newbury, Berkshire
  • Cars Owned:
    TR3A
    MG M type
    ex-TR7
    ex- AH Sprite
    ex- Saab 900turbo
    ex- an assortment of 'grey porridge'

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  1. RobH

    30 Amp Fuses

    Probably not Mark. Unless it specifically says otherwise they will be modern types which are 35 Amp continuous. If that is the case, until you can get the right ones you could use their 20A fuses as those will blow quickly at around 40A.
  2. Yes Harvey - I had one, a Jetex 35 I think it was. Worked quite well I seem to recall, mounted on a free-flight glider. Just enough burn time to get some height then glide back down. .
  3. There isn't really an adaptor Phil. The correct copper pipe has the fitting and olive on it - its usually part number 33 here, but that will depend on how it connects to your distributor: https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/electrical-system/ignition-system/ignition-system-tr2-4a-1953-67.html It looks as though you can buy the fitting and olive though to fit your existing pipe if it is the right size - parts 32 and 30.
  4. The original bimetallic type of stabiliser is not polarised and will work on + or - earthed cars. The modern electronic type certainly is polarity dependent and using the wrong one will probably release smoke and at the very least blow the fuse. If it is one of those it ought to be marked to tell you the polarity.
  5. Assuming you have H6 carbs, there should be a threaded boss just in front of the mounting flange on the bottom of the front carb. If that isn't threaded, perhaps the rear one is. If the car has more modern replacement HS6 carbs, the take-off is usually a push on connector on the top of the carb between the cover and the mounting flange. It could be on either carb.
  6. Unfortunately not all the Lucas look-alikes are built to the same standard David. Of course It may not be heat causing the problem - it could be vibration breaking a connection internally. If it is new the seller should replace it of course but if not It would be worth opening it up if you can, and taking a look at the connections and the slip-ring brushes. Replacement parts are cheaper than a whole new alternator.
  7. I wouldn't have thought there would be much fuel vapour if the plugs are out Keith - at cranking speed the pistons are just sucking air in and out through the big holes rather than mixture from the carbs. You could stop it completely by taking the air cleaners off and closing off the air intakes with gaffer tape.
  8. I'm not sure that 'flicking' the points really tells you anything very useful. It is hardly consistent as a method, doesn't test a lot of the components and if the gap from the king lead to earth is wide, the coil is being over-stressed electrically as the HT rises much further than it will in normal use. It takes a lot more voltage to spark over 1/4 inch than it does over 25 thou, and that is stressing the insulation on the coil windings. To me a better test would be to connect everything up but with the plugs out and resting on an earthed surface. Cranking the engine. should show c
  9. MOSS appear to sell them for Healy 3000 and e-type but it may be the same part ? - part number 583-820: https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?o=583-820.&q=583-820&search_group=
  10. Check that the sender mounting plate is earthed Richard - It could be as simple as that.
  11. The complication is the extra black wire. That must also be connected to 'B' to provide power to wherever it goes. The wire on 'T' ought to be green with a black stripe if the wiring diagram is to be believed.
  12. The most likely source of heat is a bad electrical connection passing a high current Mike. I expect what has happened is the plastic switch mechanism has melted which is why you feel no resistance (pun?). The electrical connection was broken and the engine stopped. because it had no fuel or ignition. Depending on the model of ignition switch you have, it might be a simple matter to fit a new mechanism - not the lock, just the switch wafer. Before you do though, you need to check whether there is a short-circuit somewhere or whether the fuel pump or ignition are drawing excess current
  13. It does sound perplexing Melvyn. One thing you could try when it won't start is to link the supply terminal of the coil directly to the battery. Obviously you would have to remove that link to stop the engine again. I take it you have checked that the flexible lead inside the dizzy, from the baseplate to the body, has good continuity when the baseplate moves under vacuum advance?
  14. The wire to the T terminal is open circuit Richard. Read my post above (third one in the thread).
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