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RobH

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About RobH

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  • Location
    Newbury, Berkshire
  • Cars Owned:
    TR3A
    MG M type

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329 profile views
  1. OK that adjustment makes sense. You must have had the carb lid off to get at the needle though - did you check that the piston still moves freely afterwards by lifting it and allowing it to drop back? It should lift with some resistance from the spring and the oil dashpot and come down smoothly with a 'clunk' as it hits the body.
  2. As for not starting - make sure you are pulling the choke all the way out. Some can be quite stiff and need considerable force so that you think it's there - but it isn't. There needs to be about two inches of choke rod showing between the knob and the dashboard. You shouldn't need to use any ether spray - that is a last resort. As a matter of interest what did you do to 'adjust' the carb? Spillage sounds like a float-valve problem rather than adjustment.
  3. A bit of a deviation from the topic, but just a word of caution about using multimeters to fault-find on cars. These meters draw next-to-no current from the circuit you are tracing which means they can mislead by showing voltage where there is in fact a bad joint which will not pass sufficient current to drive a real load. For simple voltage-tracing it is better to use a 12v bulb (say a sidelamp or festoon bulb) with wires attached, as that presents a load which will show where a bad joint exists.
  4. RobH

    Torque wrench

    An alternative to a wrench is this sort of thing which can be used with any existing socket set, which makes it a bit more versatile: https://www.amazon.co.uk/KKmoon-Electronic-Torquemeter-Adjustable-Professional/dp/B07JM5L11Q/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=torque+meter&qid=1559638227&s=gateway&sr=8-6
  5. Cynical bunch! Primarily it was for safety reasons as per the Commons debate on the private member's bill from 1967:- https://www.theyworkforyou.com/debates/?id=1967-04-19a.498.2 How widespread were cameras in 1973 anyway ? Thin on the ground I think.
  6. If its an electrical fault you don't really need to buy a new one. New regulator blocks, diode packs and brushes/slip rings are readily available to repair the old one with quite cheaply and are easy to fit. Also don't believe all the opinions you read. If your alternator has given good service up to now what would be the reason to swap to another type? Unless you have added some power-hungry accessories and have been suffering from a lack of charge, Is there any reason you need one with a higher output?
  7. Did you have the cable actually connected to the solenoid when you measured the voltage? If not there was no load on the wire and your meter could just be reading voltage through a duff connection as it takes next to no current itself. Do the solenoids pull-in properly when connected direct to the battery? If so its probably a bad connection somewhere in the relay circuit.
  8. You could try Andy King: https://prewarmgparts.co.uk/used-spares/c31864/index.html or the club: https://www.mgcc.co.uk/t-register/for-sale-and-wanted/
  9. When indicator stalks were first fitted to cars, the UK always had them on the right hand side. That meant you could indicate with one hand and simultaneously change gear with the other. European imports had the indicators on the left and this slowly became the norm presumably for ease of manufacture and export, to the detriment of driving convenience.
  10. "pressure is necessary to make a fluid flow. So without pressure: No flow at all." Well I know what you mean Johannes but that is not really true - it's actually the other way around. Pressure results from a restriction of flow. If you ran the pump with nothing attached to its output there would be plenty of flow but no pressure. Its the restriction due to tight clearances in the bearings which produces the pressure at the pump by reducing the flow.
  11. In my impecunious youth I made the mistake of buying a Sinclair 'Black Watch' kit. This was when LED watches were new and trendy but very expensive. The Sinclair kit was at least affordable but needless to say the thing was a disaster. As with all LED watches the display was power-hungry so you had to press a button to light it. Not only did the press buttons regularly fail to work, the case used to self-destruct too at intervals.
  12. As Roger says, Myford sold the company to RDG and all the bits are still available. Unlike my 1934 flat-bed Drummond which is sadly in need of a new leadscrew.....
  13. RobH

    suck or blow

    A good idea perhaps on first sight but complicated to implement Dave. The voltage coming from the fan will vary greatly with speed and you would need some sort of DC to DC converter which would accept that varying input and produce a meaningful steady regulated output suitable to charge the battery. Such things do exist but you then need circuitry to switch it on only when the input reached an acceptable level. A further complication is that normally the battery is fully charged anyway from the dynamo or alternator so there may not be anywhere for the fan output to go. You could of course provide it with its own battery to charge, separate from that of the car. The next factor is that you don't get something for nothing and the energy taken from the fan to provide any charge must come from the energy developed by the engine to move the car. You would actually be adding slightly to air resistance, so since nothing is 100% efficient the energy 'saved' would be less than the extra energy expended. The only time you might get savings would be on the overrun when slowing down.
  14. RobH

    suck or blow

    "The speed it reaches can exceed the bearing ratings and shorten there life" I'm not convinced about that given the normal running speed of the fan but If it worries you, the fan can be electrically braked by connecting a low value resistance across its feed when it is unpowered. The resistor may get quite hot so needs to be suitably rated. The lower the resistance the greater the braking effect but don't go so low that the current exceeds the motor rating.
  15. RobH

    suck or blow

    Well the density of air reduces by about 18% from 15C to 80C so there is an effect there which may affect cooling by a couple of %. On the other hand the thinner hot air will reduce the efficiency of the fan behind the radiator when its running so that has to be taken into account too.
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