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About RobH

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  • Location
    Newbury, Berkshire
  • Cars Owned:
    MG M type
    ex- AH Sprite
    ex- Saab 900turbo
    ex- an assortment of 'grey porridge'

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  1. Two questions Steve. Is the wiring standard and have you been carrying out any work on the car immediately prior to the fault occurring? The reason for asking is that it is very difficult to understand how this fault could happen spontaneously with the standard wiring set-up. The horn wiring is separate from the ignition circuit and any feasible relay failure cannot cause this. I'm not too familiar with the TR6 steering column arrangement but the only thing I can suggest is to check the steering column is properly earthed, as I think that is the return path for the horn-push. The
  2. Buy it from somewhere reputable then Darren: https://www.namrick.co.uk/acatalog/Home_Recoil_Thread_Repair_Kits___Inserts_122.html
  3. I assume the 'new' loom and flasher unit were in place before this happened Richard? If you've changed nothing other than disconnection and reconnection of the wiring, and you are sure it has gone back as it was before, then it sounds as though the flasher unit has a fault. The odd dimming of the warning lamp, which then went away, supports that as it suggests something awry with the warning-lamp driver in the flasher. I guess there is no doubt that the flasher unit still has a good earth connection? According to the Autowire schematic, a TR4A does not have a hazard flasher - is that s
  4. Just park it facing the other way on alternate days, then it will fade uniformly
  5. According to the SMMT sales of pure electric cars have gone from 18256 at this point in 2021 to 31779 so far this year. A big increase in percentage terms but still small numbers which represent only 7.7% of the total cars sold. Petrol and diesel cars still account for over 60% of sales. The rest are hybrids of various sorts.
  6. OK here's something different. (Purists please look away now). I have replaced the mechanical fuel pump with a Huco electric one and the original two-fuse arrangement with an eight-fuse block so that each circuit has its own fuse. (I made the blade-fuse block, which is a story in its own right since all the blocks available are too big.). Both mods are very easily changed back to the original arrangements should I so wish in the future, as I have retained the original connections. The only substantial change is the battery master switch and even that would only require a rubber bung in
  7. I think you have that backwards John. The increased caliper area will give an increased braking force for the same pedal effort, but a longer pedal travel because more fluid has to be moved. Using Richard's figure of 800psi fluid pressure: 800psi on 10in^2 gives 8144lbf on the rotor whereas the original caliper gives only 5344lbf. To reduce pedal effort to raise the 800psi or to raise a higher pressure for the same effort you need a smaller master cylinder but the travel will become even longer.
  8. Having read the link in the original post I wonder whether the researchers have mistaken the bodies' natural preparedness for 'fight or flight' for actual fear? The two things are rather different I think. Maybe having good visualisation and preparedness to act is a survival trait ?
  9. Looking at that solenoid arrangement Pete, it seems it is just being used as a terminal and not as a solenoid at all. Perhaps that means someone has fitted a pre-engaged starter. Those have a solenoid on the motor so the one on the bulkhead would be redundant.
  10. If it is a case of working but reading incorrectly, those two holes either side of the central screw are adjustment points. There is info on how to adjust the sender and gauge here: https://www.mgexp.com/article/how-to-adjust-the-fuel-gauge-sender.140
  11. Yes the connections to the switch are as you describe. Power comes from the battery to the lighting switch and through the brown/green wire to the input terminal on the ignition switch so that point is always 'live'. When the ignition switch is closed, power is connected to the three white wires on the output terminal. The feed to the voltmeter should come from that switched supply so that power is only applied to the meter when the ignition is on. You could take the feed from the switch itself or from the A4 terminal on the fusebox where all the green wires connect, as doing that would mean
  12. Mine is an SG2530/63 so that spare one looks right. The internals should be very similar to the one in the MGA link so you can check that the resistances look reasonable i.e 99 Ohms from T terminal to the case, 61 Ohms between the two terminals. If those are about right you are good to go. However, if the fitted gauge was working OK why not keep it ? (unless you are going for originality of course...). That might save a bit of fiddling about as the spare will need adjustment to suit the sender.
  13. Very odd. It might be indicative of some sort of tracking on the plug or connector. Opening the gap might be a red herring - perhaps you cured the actual problem unknowingly when taking the plug out.
  14. It isn't visible cracking you need to worry about Brian - its lack of grip because the rubber has aged and gone hard, and possible internal degradation which might become evident if you drive any distance on them. Good luck with explaining your thinking to your insurance company if you are involved in an accident.
  15. Halfords sell a similar muti-purpose lithium grease made by Comma.
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