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RobH

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Everything posted by RobH

  1. RobH

    Tyres

    A deflated tube will do absolutely nothing to keep the tyre on the rim Richard - It's as limp as a very limp thing. (Oo-er missus) It's when you hit a kerb or even under very heavy cornering, that the tube stops the tyre from losing air if it is pushed away from the rim. A tubeless tyre may deflate if the edge seal is lost hence the ridge in the wheel on later cars to mitigate the effect.
  2. You don't really need a fancy charger for NiMh if you are not in a hurry - modern cells have an oxygen catalyst so you can use constant-current charging at C/10 or below, for a set time. e.g. For those 3AH batteries, charging at 150mA for 30 hours or more (C/20) would be fine. The current is low enough not to cause a significant temperature rise . Although not optimal, it would do no damage but of course that isn't much use if you need to use the battery fairly quickly. The problem with putting just a couple of new cells in a series pack is that you end up with unbalanced states of cha
  3. RobH

    starter motor 4a

    Before you think of buying a new starter Dave, check out the electrical connections to it including the engine and battery earthing. This may be a simple as a bad connection or a failing solenoid contact.
  4. HIDs are High Intensity Discharge lamps , a.k.a. xenon: https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/aftermarket-hid-headlamps/aftermarket-hid-headlamps Does anyone sell the mandatory self-levelling and cleaning kits for aftermarket HIDs on TRs that would make them legal ?
  5. And that would effectively remove our choice of price v quality Andy, and result in two cheap-and-cheerful parts and nothing better. You already have the cheaper option to buy if you want. £1k more for a quality part seems entirely reasonable to me given the costs of setting up for small batches, doing it right, and of paying people a decent living wage.
  6. I believe this was discussed some years back because someone had an 'oil light' that stayed on when the alternator died. I think the answer was that it is easy for the oil and ignition lamps to be swapped in their respective holders, and his were the wrong way round.
  7. Basic stuff - does the car have a ballasted ignition John? If so is there a full 12v on the coil supply terminal when cranking ? If it is ballasted and there is only about 6v when cranking the ignition switch may be faulty. Lumenition make a number of different systems, optical and magnetic and from simple switching types to clever units with constant dwell, so it's difficult to know where to begin on fault-finding them. This is their guide for one of the optical systems which includes a fault-finding section: https://www.gsparkplug.com/media/wysiwyg/technical-information/lu
  8. Sounds as though the gauge may have lost the earth connection (made via the gauge body and clamp to the dash). One of the coils inside passes current to earth all the time the ignition is on, and pulls the needle towards "full". The other coil passes current to earth via the tank sender and pulls the needle back towards "empty" . Since your gauge does not show full even when the sender wire is disconnected, it means the first coil isn't doing anything and that could be because it has no earth.
  9. RobH

    Tyres

    Those links are are all '60' section Roger. Too small rolling radius. These are the correct '80' section: https://www.camskill.co.uk/m53b0s408p0/Car_Tyres_-_MPV_Tyres_-_People_Carrier_Tyres_-_15_inch_R15_inch_-_165_80_15_165_80R15_R15_inch_-_165_15_165R15
  10. RobH

    Tyres

    10mm isn't going to make much difference Graham either in weight or grip. You can lighten things up by inflating the tyres a bit harder if you find it a problem. Blockleys - at least in crossply form - are used for racing so gentle driving isn't a necessity.
  11. Amazing how realistic computers can make things look. I think they have manipulated a stock photo of a 'non-existent' sporty-looking car, probably for copyright reasons. The ramp has been photoshopped in, you couldn't even drive it onto a ramp like that - where is the one on the other side? The shadow beneath the car is obviously false because it doesn't match the lighting.
  12. And they both fit the standard TR4 steel wheel.
  13. It will do that anyway Neil - the current will just come the other way through the ammeter from the battery. Don't forget the ammeter is really just a piece of thick wire connecting the alternator (or dynamo) to the battery.
  14. It doesn't really matter where the relay is situated John, providing the wiring which carries the the pump supply is suitable for the current drawn. The original wiring should be OK for a Lucas pump but will probably need beefing up for other types. It is convenient to use the existing wire for the coil side of a boot-mounted relay and run in a new high -current wire for the pump side.
  15. It could be that the setting of the interlock switch travel is marginal, and heat expansion causes it to lose function altogether. There's no adjustment on the J type solenoid so it can't be that.
  16. No - you should have one or the other, not both except when you 'flash' when on low beam.
  17. I take it you mean that happens when you activate the headlamp flash Peter ? If so that is indeed odd.
  18. As standard there is no lighting relay so Bob's advice on that may not be relevant if your wiring has not been modified. This is the arrangement for a car with a foot dipswitch: As you can see both the LH and RH lamps are powered from the same switches and wires so if one works, the switches and power feed must be OK. A possible fault is in the connector where the LH and RH feeds are split, or in the connection to the RH lamp holder.
  19. Why is that Neil? It's the only way to do it correctly if the car has an ammeter. If there is no ammeter then the alternator and battery are connected together so in that case you have no option anyway.
  20. That block seems to originally have been associated with a different type of alternator Gareth, and may have been re-purposed in different ways depending on how the changes to the wiring were made to fit a later type. The advice above is based on the specific photos of Andy's car. Don't assume they are all wired the same.
  21. Yes that's right. The thin brown wire is an output from the alternator so using that for the supply to the pump is the correct thing to do. That way the pump current does not go through the ammeter. The meter will only register current going into and out of the battery and will read zero most if the time as it is supposed to, rather than showing a spurious 'charge' which is actually being drawn by the pump. As you say, the white/red from the starter switch is the correct wire to power a relay coil for the WOSP starter.
  22. The answer is going to depend on what alternator you have Andy. It sounds as though your car may have the later ACR type with three connections only. If so then yes connect to one of the output leads from the two large spade terminals on the alternator - it doesn't matter which. If there are two output wires and one wire is larger than the other it may just be a legacy of when the change was made to an alternator with a higher output current. BUT If your car still has the original type alternator with five connections you can't do that. On those the thin brown wire is a voltage
  23. Better to wire it direct to the alternator output, the other side of the ammeter, since that is where the current comes from when the car is running. The way you have it, the ammeter carries the pump current all the time hence the incorrect indication.
  24. Yes it's possible for the flasher to be faulty but you don't need any thing special to test it Jock - just a small bulb with two wires attached will do.
  25. If there is no current being supplied to the field terminal you won't get 14V out of D. With no field current supply, there is only some small residual magnetism left in the field, not enough to generate anything much which is what you are reading. When you connected F direct to D the machine "bootstraps" and supplies its own field current to boost the field and so gives full output. The initial 2.5v is enough to increase the field a bit , the stronger field generates more output volts which increases the field current further which raises the output further and so on until you got t
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