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About AarhusTr6

  • Birthday 07/27/1967

Profile Information

  • Location
    Aarhus, Denmark
  • Cars Owned:
    1971 TR6 (LHD US Spec), British guy living in Denmark. Also restoring a 1955 Vespa.

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  1. The thing is I’m not sure if the shims I am ordering well actually help here? It looks to me that the cam is very excessive but I think the tracking is way off so I think the next best step is to get that done first and then see where I am??
  2. Hi Peter Thanks for your help and yes the link that you send me is the local guy that I use but it is not a particularly large warehouse he has I guess I may have to try some of the German suppliers Richard
  3. Hi After a full front suspension rebuild I can see we camber is quite out on one of the wheels and think I will need to put in a shim or two but the my local supply shop has sold out. ordering from the UK to Denmark due to Brexit is a real pain so I was wondering if anybody else has any other suggestions as I have a car booked into a mechanic for a week time for both camber and wheel alignment. I guess one question is are shims generic? Richard
  4. Could somebody please tell me if I am doing this right or wrong? First I think I have the rubber on correct but the rings retaining rings - i’m not sure I have it on correct does this pitch look okay? Pausing on the other three until I hear back!!
  5. Can somebody please help me on how it actually works? Richard
  6. Hi all I cannot quite understand what the brown wire is for on my light switch lever because my car is a 1970 Tr6 and from my guess it’s for pass to flash which is only on the TR5? Also it is not shown on the wiring diagram either (brown wire) Secondly, I’m quite unsure how it actually works… Richard
  7. Ah . . ok. Whats also odd is when I move to switch position two, the red/green goes off at fuse, so I think this switch is a good starting point but what I did not say is I did not do a voltage test (I only used a circuit tester) at the red/green at fuse as theoretically, the backlights and front running lights should have come on for one click and they do not.
  8. Thanks Rob so how does the second click work on the lever if there is already power on one click to the red/green?? Agree on blinkers - think that’s a red herring maybe Richard
  9. Favour Urgently needed for weekend ahead I have no headlamps and no rear lights and I think I could probably eventually get to it if I had more time on my hands but I was wondering if somebody with a bit more experience could point me to a quicker resolution Red and green single wire which goes to the fuse and to which then splits into two reds has power to it but only when I move the lights lever one click when I move it two clicks no power so I’m a bit confused on how this lever actually works The second one is that my indicators have also stopped working I am g
  10. Last few bits of assembly from winter project and I broke the last bit of brake line to the caliper and wondered if or how to replace ? Do I have to buy new line and shape etc or can I buy as a one-er? thanks richard
  11. Morning all I would greatly appreciate if somebody could give me some Lernard advice on the correct rebuild order of the front suspension please. I have so far put back the top swing arms and the two bottom swing arms and would like to know now which is the best order to start reassembly as based on experience what typically happens is I will put something in and then go oh bugger I should’ve done something else first! thanks Richard
  12. thank you for the input My concern is that maybe I am tightening the nut too much? Because the more you tighten the castle nut that the more you compress the bush Richard
  13. I'm really sorry if it is a thick question but I just want to make sure that I do this correct. I tightened the castle nut to to arm tight and ensure that the wishbone could move nicely up and down however when I fit the cotter pin into the hole it does not align with the castle nut or rather the cotter pin does not fit into the slot of the nut that is on the outside of it Simple me thinks just add another washer but I know there was only one washer when I removed the swingarm. I am thinking the original bushings were fatter? I have used the blue polyurethane bushings. I would ap
  14. Hi all, thanks for feedback. I have a confession that I was a bit lost on what I was looking at and seems PO did a good recently before selling to me and all bearings etc are in place. He has used a lot of red grease too and looks like a good job. When tightening the castle nut, is it finger tight? Richard
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