Lebro

A bit unkown ! you would be trying to regulate the output twice. best not to go that way Bob

Yes. Assuming you are going for an alternator with a built in regulator (Lucas ACR etc) you no longer need the external regulator. You can remove it altogether & simply join the thick wires which went to "D", "A" & "A1" together, & connect the thinner wire wire going to "D" to the field terminal on the alternator. or some people rip out the internals of the old regulator, & re-wire it to act as a junction box, make the connection above. Bob

As suspected, blown transistor feeding the pilot lamp. Now repaired, & on it's way home. Be careful not to short the pilot lamp's contacts together, or it will happen again !! Bob

Strange shape, but either way it's broken & won't work till its repaired. Bob

Sounds like fluid sneaking past the master cylinder seal to me also Bob

If you can bridge the gap with a suitably heavy gauge wire (soldered) then the reg may well be ok to re-use Bob

Thanks all. Had a nice day out on a tour on Jim Stokes Workshops near Waterlooville. Amazing place, they restore any type of car, but mainly very expensive ones i.e an 1930's Alpha open top sports with twin superchargers worth £10,000,000 They make Alpha engines from scratch all done on site except the casting, top quality. They also have a classic car division, & there was a '6 on a ramp having it's rear drive serviced. The hub was off the stub axle, & the slot for the woodruf ket has cracked, They were going to replace all of it ! Highly recommend a visit - t

Hope you are having a great day Bob

It's much easier to see the fuel level in the carb body if you pull the choke right out to max, there is then a much larger hole to peer down. Bob

Just in case you don't know, the gearbox mainshaft has to be changed to a shorter one, which means a complete gearbox strip down. Bob

I suspect you have damaged the flasher unit, by accidentaly shorting the bulb contacts together. the bulb is driven by a small transistor. I can easily replace this for you, (I blew one myself a while ago by testing the unit with too high a wattage bulb) Bob. PS. If you like, I can send you a replacement unit,( I have a spare one) then you send me yours, I repair it, & keep it for stock Just cost you the postage. I know yours is -ve earth.

The wire from the steering column should connect to the wire going over to the left side, & also to the "L" terminal of the flasher unit. the wire going to the left is for left hand drive cars, & does nothing on yours. The loom was designed to be good for RHD, & LHD cars.

My money is on the fuel. Bob

+1, I use a 3HP / 50 ltr Sealey unit, It has done all I asked it to for many years. A quick look, & this one seems good value: https://www.sgs-engineering.com/catalog/product/view/id/2684/s/sc50h-50-litre-high-flow-air-compressor/?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwlZixBhCoARIsAIC745CLt2TyHNLCC7ylbK8Du3rqQ2R_FdXiIPpdxsgXjxaiTEk-LVDVbUIaAvK9EALw_wcB Bob

The diagram above is not of your regulator, as said above there are no fuses inside. Ok, looking at the wiring diagram, A is connected direct to the ammeter, & the other side of the ammeter is connected to the battery. That suggests that the car should still be charging ? A1 goes to the lighting switch, & ignition switch. Neither circuit is fused, only after igniton switch is anything fused. Conclusion is that the shortout caused a large current to flow from battery, through the ammeter, through the A to A1 coil in the regulator, then to the shorted wire. result was the

If "A" has 12V, & "A1" has 0V, then, yes the regulator is damaged, the two should be connected inside via a coil of a few turns of quite thick wire. "D" is a thick wire going to the output of the dynamo, "F" is a thinner wire going to the field winding of the dynamo. "E" goes to earth (chassis). "A" & "A1" both are wired into the other parts of the loom (fused or otherwise) both should always have 12V (approx) on them, as they are connected to the battery via the ammeter. Bob

Or, Simply raise the rear of the car on axle stands. less work than disconnecting the propshaft ? Bob

https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p33127/0.31x0.5x0.12-inch-Nitrile-Rubber-Rotary-Shaft-Oil-Seal-VC-Style/product_info.html Bob

A few pictures of the Brooklands meet, courtesy of various group members: Click on to enlarge Bob

Look at the web site, they do covers for TR4's as well https://richbrook.co.uk/product/triumph-indoor-car-covers/ Bob

Brooklands today for those in the SE Bob

If you want to go solid state this is the one you need: https://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com/the-cdrc-online-shop.php#!/CDRC-ADR106-REPLACES-LUCAS-RB106/p/101896060/category=28007025 Bob