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Yes I got a 100l one from SGS, and whilst it's a good bit of kit, you will find it is running much of the time. With hindsight I would have gone for the bigger capacity David

Many Happy Returns Hope you've had a good day David

Thanks Rob, no ammeter, voltmeter instead David

So I'm considering the in-line fuse option, Rob would you put the fuse between the starter solenoid connection and the supply wire to the lights? Autosparks tell me that the Brown/Blue is 28 strand of 0.3mm rated at 17.5a continuous, so would a 15a in-line fuse be appropriate? All my lights are led, I have an alternator and no control box, just to clarify for those offering advice, but thank you, it is much appreciated. Once I can get the steering column clamp loosened off and the lighting wires pulled out I will have a better idea of where the original issue lay David

Hi Andy, indeed the thought did cross my mind, but in the end I've bitten the bullet and ordered a new loom from Autosparks while I continue dismantling the interior to find the root cause of the failure David

Thanks guys, helpful advice. Having built the car from scratch I know exactly what's involved. I never thought the running of the 12v permanent live in that bundle of cables which is then jammed between the 2 halves of the steering column clamp was a particularly great idea! David

Thanks Dic, I tend to agree. Having looked further behind the dash I was able to see several additional areas of melted loom + insulation on the permanent 12v cable. I have decided that the risk to having the loom compromised isn't worth it, so a new loom was ordered from Autosparks this morning; the pain is the lead time can be up to 10 weeks so that's going to write off a fair chunk of the season, hey ho David

Also looking at the 'Flash to Pass' wiring which I know has been covered on this Forum as well as those Stateside. The alternative wiring arrangement which I have used without issue since rebuild is attached, showing the connection of an unfused live to the flash terminal on the column switch. I'm wondering whether the live supply should come from a permanent 12v fused supply so the fuse would blow before any serious cable damage occurred? Any thoughts on the pros/cons of these arrangements David

Marco, Autosparks provide a new loom which is designed for an alternator and with no Control Box. I'm going to strip back the loom tape as Charlie suggests and look at the condition of the other adjacent wires; then decide how to proceed David

Yes that is possible, thank you

Charlie, that is my thought process. Interesting that certain parts of the Brown /Blue cable run are showing insulation melting, others are not, I don't fully understand what creates the difference David

Marco, I have an alternator so the cables are slightly different. The Brown/Blue is from the starter solenoid but a common connection to the battery main feed so effectively direct from the battery

That's interesting Ian, they clearly saw the issue. I added an extra fuse box during the build, but unfortunately the Brown/Blue is un-fused, straight off the battery via the starter solenoid David

Hi Marco, the last thing before this fault first appeared was a visit to a Bodyshop, however I can't see why or how that would have affected anything in the wiring under the dash/steering column. The worst of the melting is at the starter solenoid connection, but also I've found melting where the Brown/Blue crossed over an earth wire which has melted through causing a direct short to the body! David

I have a almost new Autosparks loom in my 4a, installed during rebuild and worked fine for 3yrs. Recently after a visit to a body shop, I noticed that the main beam flashed on occasionally when turning the steering wheel. I suspected that an earth was occurring in the vicinity of the column lighting switch, possibly contacting the indicator cancelling clip and shorting through the steering column. After some investigation, I managed to move the indicator clip slightly further down the steering shaft; it seemed to be sorted. However, today during final checks before the first show of the season

Assuming that's my switch being modified, it came from J Duncan Lloyd (Classic Bits); thanks Roger David

Pete, I have a spare TR5/6 front header bar if you want to go down that route and some spare locking handles Rgds David

ok thanks for letting me know David

Hi Martin, yes 2 fixing bolts, exactly 50mm apart centre to centre David

A pair of Tex stainless steel wing mirrors in almost immaculate condition, 1 tiny scratch on one, hardly visible. Purchaser will need to source suitable mounting pads for door/wing mounting. £25 plus P&P or pick up from Glasgow area Many thanks David

I was referring to copper pipe Tony

I'm replacing the short length of copper fuel pipe into the fuel pump, I have lengths of pipe but I notice that one is 7.94mm x 0.71 and the other is 7.94mm x 0.9mm, which is correct and does it make any difference (I assume wall thickness)? Many thanks David

My early 4a bonnet is an angled bar David

Thanks for the feedback, I get the point about the wheel and tyre consideration. I'll probably stay is is for now, the medium/higher speed stability and ride comfort is absolutely fine with the 6" wheel - 195/65 combination Rgds David

I know, I know, this has been covered many times and during my complete 4a restoration I looked into this in some detail; but Forum searches didn't provide an answer. A fellow member offered me a set of 15x6" KN Minators in as new condition for little money, so that decided it. After 2 years of running I'm happy with the general handling/comfort of the wheels with 195/65/15 Vredstien T Trac2s, except for the slow speed manoeuvring/parking which is hard work (obvs). So my question is; how much difference to this would switching to 5 1/2" rims make with the same tyres. I understand that the tyr