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qkingston

TR Register Members
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Everything posted by qkingston

  1. Thanks Roger, fantastic. Sorry not to catch up with you at Malvern
  2. Re-cycling an old thread; would anyone be kind enough to supply measurements/rubbing of the 'IRS' badge fixing holes for the 4a boot pse? I have the 4a badge holes but not the IRS (US IRS import) Much appreciated David
  3. So just to share my experience in case other members which to do the same, I followed Speedograph Richfield's helpful advice and measured the speedo cable rotation for 20 turns of the rear wheel to give a calibration figure from them to work off. The high tech gadget and highly qualified assistant gave a repeatable result of 10 7/8 cable turns with std diff and 195/65/15 T-Trac2 Rgds David
  4. I have bought good quality spares from https://www.autoelectricalspares.co.uk in the past, but recently they seem to be struggling to get orders processed, I gave up eventually. Shame because their stuff is good David
  5. I was double checking I had this right before final fit of door handles, and Rogers reminder that NS & OS are stamped on the castings; however having an ex USA car I wondered whether NS & OS would still be the same. My research would suggest the NS & OS remain the same either way, on a RHD car NS is the passenger side, on a LHD car NS is the drivers side (ie it doesn't change), anyone disagree? David
  6. Just picking up on this helpful thread; I found that using a thin shafted cross head screwdriver I could get the plastic caps (warmed in water first) to slip into the locating holes pretty well, the handle on the screwdriver enabled me to apply a little force and get them sitting flush. My question is: the world emblem fixing holes appear fractionally smaller and the plastic caps won't quite fit, should the hole be the same size as the letters or does the badge get fitted with spire clips? Bit tricky as the badge holes come through behind the strengthening webbing low down at the front of
  7. I suspect you're right Hamish. I have asked the club expert the question as suggested by Ian C Rgds David
  8. Thanks Ian, I think that's how I understand the DVSA website, but it doesn't seem to cover the change that has occurred with the no MOT requirement; I just wondered if anyone had crossed that bridge recently? Rgds David
  9. apologies for duplication; website wouldn't update!!
  10. Apologies for re-cycling an old post of mine, but it never got a reply and I am now close to getting the car in a near completed condition (fully painted on completed rolling chassis - electrics/trim etc to complete), I would like to get the registration process going now that the DVSA offices have re-opened. So can anyone help with the question above? If the car doesn't require an MOT (yes I will get one when car is complete, circa end of year), can I get the ex US car registered without an MOT? Thank you David
  11. Apologies for re-cycling an old post of mine, but it never got a reply and I am now close to getting the car in a near completed condition (fully painted on completed rolling chassis - electrics/trim etc to complete), I would like to get the registration process going now that the DVSA offices have re-opened. So can anyone help with the question above? If the car doesn't require an MOT (yes I will get one when car is complete, circa end of year), can I get the ex US car registered without an MOT? Thank you David
  12. Apologies for re-cycling an old post of mine, but it never got a reply and I am now close to getting the car in a near completed condition (fully painted on completed rolling chassis - electrics/trim etc to complete), I would like to get the registration process going now that the DVSA offices have re-opened. So can anyone help with the question above? If the car doesn't require an MOT (yes I will get one when car is complete, circa end of year), can I get the ex US car registered without an MOT? Thank you David
  13. Thanks Ian, interestingly they were the only company out of 6 I emailed who even bothered to respond David
  14. My early 4a (mar 65 - 52373) had flat bump stops and no bonnet dimples, both believed originals Rgds David
  15. I'm cleaning up my guages with new bezels and touched up paint, generally all working well pre-restoration. When I opened up the speedo I noticed the small red plastic cogs (1 either side) have identical splits in them. The speedo seems to function ok, but what is the purpose of these red cogs, they don't lookas though they are meant to move??? If I need specialist help, given the above comments in earlier threads, who is recommended? Many thanks David
  16. Dave, the swinging 60s race on Sunday at knockhill was brilliant to watch, well done the TRs!! Rgds David
  17. Great racing on Sunday, Tr4s & 6s were very impressive David
  18. Hi Les, I got a good pair of MX5 seats from www.autolinkmx5.com, they are a bit closer (Castle Douglas) and pretty reasonable Regards David
  19. ok thanks Stuart, would you agree with Tim's cable length adjustment? David
  20. This is a timely suggestion and sounds a very sensible mod. I take it that cutting the outer cable sheath with a cutting disc is the best approach? Thanks David
  21. Can anyone help with photos showing how the felt seals fit between the air ducts and the metal fascia panel (4a), I failed to take adequate shots of how the felt seal fits around the lip of the plastic vent grille and the metal duct, every way I try to fit it some part of the fascia structure is in the way Many thanks David
  22. So yes the Spit header rail does fit, I retained the handles and fitted the Revington TR4a screen top conversion kit, which is rather more intrusive, however it suited me given the complete restoration I was undertaking Rgds David
  23. Hi Rich, my challenge is that I started with a non-overdrive box as a fair number of US 4a exports seem to have. The GT6 mount bracket doesn't work on that configuration unless the chassis gearbox cross member is modified (ie the height is dropped) David
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