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About greasemonkey

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  1. It would be from a Coventry Climax forklift. The engine they used was close to the tractor engine. From recollection (I was with their auditors in the early '70's) they used the 4 pot well into the 1970s and even had a batch of cylinder blocks cast in India when ST had exhausted their stock. Phil
  2. Contacts can oxidise in storage. See here... Check out the section 'Repairing the Lucas RB106 Regulator'... http://www.worldphaco.net Lots of good stuff there! Phil.
  3. When I hit the 'Media Manager' button nothing happens... should a box come up? I'm logged in & am trying to edit an ad. already posted. I tried the MM button when composing the ad. first time around but it just cleared the page! So I had to input the lot again. Weird. Phil.
  4. Hi Stuart, So are you saying don't use a cover at all (even a breathable one) or just don't use one for the first 6 months after painting? Assume 2 pack paint. Phil
  5. I've heard stories about new paintwork (or even old for that matter) being spoiled by the use of a car cover. Has anyone experienced a problem with paintwork caused by reaction with a cover..... Breathable or otherwise?? Phil.
  6. In years gone by Revington either sold bespoke length push rods or shortened your own - I'd be inclined to give him a call & ask what he offers these days. The advantage of TR rods is that they are hollow & relatively easy to adjust - as per KK. Phil.
  7. Given the size & position I'd say a professional is needed. Get a quote from a couple of reputable trimmers and take it from there. Otherwise it's a bit more 'patina' and you could live with it!! Cheers, Phil.
  8. WOSP type on my 3A since April this year. Hell of a game fitting it. But it works fine now it's fitted. The problem was that the original s. motor is fixed to the block with 2 x 3/8" bolts but, significantly, whilst the holes in the block are a snug fit on the bolts the holes in the s. motor are 7/16". This allows the motor to be located by the shoulder machined in the end plate of the block but allows for some misalignment of the machining of the bolt holes in the block. 1950's motor engineering wasn't always an exact science. The fixed position of the stud in the top of the WOSP s.motor combined with a close tolerance 3 1/2" diameter shoulder, meant that the shoulder just would not go in the hole in the block. Rather than return it, I decided to persevere with some engineer's marking blue and a scraper. The "scrape a bit, try to fit, then scrape some more" technique took me the many hours to get a good fit as the branched manifold was still fitted. I've probably only taken 20 or 30 thou. off mostly one side of the shoulder. My experience may well be a one-off? Perhaps my block was the last one through before the summer shutdown in 1959! I spoke to the nice guys at WOSP and they said it wasn't a problem they had heard of before but would check it out with thr TR suppliers they deal with. Phil.
  9. Some useful sidescreen stuff here... Lot 308 Rear Seat incl fitting brackets, Lot 170 looks like Bomb type starter motor. https://www.the-saleroom.com/en-gb/auction-catalogues/richard-edmonds-auctions/catalogue-id-ibri10049 Phil.
  10. I recall that misting in the fuel gauge happened on Apollo 13 as well! At least in the film anyway! And the needle stuck too - maybe they used Smiths gauges, Phil.
  11. John, I've recently fitted an electronic unit to my pre-war Riley. Whilst researching I noticed a number of suppliers warned against the use of copper HT leads with their electronic ignition modules. Historically I've never liked the idea of carbon leads - why introduce a high resistance into the circuit? - but given that the suppliers' bumph warned about copper leads 'frying' the unit I've given in to modernity & fitted carbon leads. Are yours copper?? Cheers, Phil.
  12. Alan - have a look at this previous topic - may be useful.. https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/64097-4-pot-carburetter-needles/ Phil.
  13. I used to rate the Draper Expert stuff but have recently had a problem convincing them of my interpretation of their lifetime guarantee - so I won't be buying any more. Phil.
  14. +1 BEWARE- buy Nightbreaker only from reputable dealers. There are counterfeit items that are indistinguishable.... Until your car goes up in Smoke!!! EBay & Amazon are full of counterfeits.
  15. I have a feeling this could be the start of a very interesting in-depth technical discussion - I'll sit back & wait!! Phil.
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