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Everything posted by RogerH

  1. You use TRiangulating to find the gusset TRiangulation Roger
  2. Hi Don, I can't easily interpret the rusty pictures but usually any rust on the lower surface is always a possible leak area. If you do not want to take the time to repair it then try and buy a second hand good original, or a steel tank. The Ali tanks can be very good but there are a few iffy ones out there. Ask here on the forum who has what available. Change the steel pipes for copper (they work well) or Kunifer (they also work well) The rubber hose needs to be Ethanol proof not sure of the coding R9 or R14 rings a bell. Roger
  3. Happy Birthday Ton, Dymuniadau gorau Roger & Sue
  4. RogerH

    TR6 Valve Collets

    Hi Peter, welcome to the forum. The Moss WebCat Collars shows single collar inlet with an optional Ali one and a double exhaust. Both have bottom collars Roger
  5. Hi Jerry, the only problem is that if you go somewhere that requires cool air on your feet then it is supplied by the external hot and so ins't cool. I've been looking at AirCon parts from T7Design but it all get rather pricey for a few days of cool feet. Is it possible to drive with your feet on a bag of frozen peas. (its a TRiumph thing) Roger
  6. Wow Chris - that was a close one. Roger
  7. Hi Jerry, TRiumph obviously realised that the 4A handbrake was not up to scratch and did the mod for the 5 & 6. It has a very good affect. Also with the back plate lever extension - it all works well. Roger
  8. Hi Tim, That particular spire nut has not been available for a long time now. For me the neatest answer was to use M4 rivnuts. You can get the domed screw from here Domed screw Roger
  9. RogerH

    Radiator Cowl

    Hi Christine, here is a stainless steel cowl with no logo. Cowl You can get them with TR4 or TR4A on them. The card ones can work OK but some are rather cheap. I would think the shiny side is underneath as it is probably more water proof Roger
  10. 72 years and still going strong. Roger
  11. Hi Bob, I do not know the history but this is what I do know. The inside of the box had a seriously thick layer of black gunge with 'Matmos' styled silver streaks. The clutch fork taper pin was in two halves. It hadn't been used for at least 10 years - but this does not add to wear etc. The little reverse gear had bad wear on one edge where it clattered into its associated gear. Its associated gear had serious wear due to being clattered. The first speed hub has got some bad marks on its rear face but not wear as such. The lay shaft looks good and all the needles were in one piece. The front and rear main shaft bearings feel knackered Roger
  12. Hi George, This GB has loose needle rollers. I read somewhere the other day that there are three varieties of roller assembly - Loose, shell type and in a cage. The early boxes used the first two. They commented that the latter cage type gave most wear issues. I'll put the original loose needles back simply to see what happens. If at some time I decide to build it properly then I can get all new user parts. Roger
  13. Hi Richard, I haven't measured it yet but the lay shaft looks good. There is no obvious wear - no marks. Roger
  14. RogerH

    TR4 Rebuild

    Hi Folks, well that was quite prophetic !!!!!! Lockdown on March 23rd certainly threw a spanner in the works, So after 8 months sleep the Blue Racer has risen and having risdid is now at home to be played with. However it did put up a fight. When I went to start it I could keep it going at 2000 + rpm but any lower and it cut out. A bit of head scratching, popped some oil in the dash pots and bingo. Amazing what affect empty dash pots have. So next week-end I shall look over the car and see what I can do to perhaps finish it off (good and proper). The GB has a really good oil leak and I'm not sure of the internals quality so I'm toying with removing the GB and get it sort. I know the near side front wing needs attention and the near side door needs touching up So that should sort the summer out. Roger
  15. Hi Dennis, welcome to the forum. Firstly you will need to remove the nearside wiper arm. Remove the motor and driving rack as one. Remove the speedo and tacho and steering wheel. There is a little square panel to be removed then you will see where the wheel box should be. Do both wheel boxes. The plastic truncated piece underneath is often found to be broken. item# 68 Truncated barrel Not a difficult job but tedious. Roger
  16. Hi Pearmund, welcome to the forum. I agree with Rod. Double nut the rear stud to allow it to swivel. I had the same p[problem many moons ago. To stop this happening again I made some washers that had flanges on that blanked off the pin so it could not migrate out Roger
  17. Are we allowed to use the terms Master and slave cylinder !!! Roger
  18. Hi Bob, no, not yet. I have not really bothered with keeping the parts in order. I'll find where they go by using the 'jigsaw' method The small reverse gear cluster have seen some serious gear changing - the edges of the teeth on one side are quite badly worn as it the gear it links with. However there is still plenty of teeth remaining so would probably do a job. Should be fun assembling it after it is completely clean and I have recovered from an op next week. Roger
  19. With the body off puts a different perspective on the question/answer Roger
  20. Hi Charlie, I have kept the main gear cluster on its shaft but other pieces are on a big tray in no order. Most things only go in one place and hopefully the WSM exploded diagram and the Moss pars diagram will assist where other bits go. As I mentioned above the 'dry' will be to see where parts go rather than have a working GB. Roger
  21. Hi Richard, the rear one came out quite easily followed by the gear cluster. The rear mainshaft bearing was a devil to pull off but it came off eventually. It should be interesting putting it all back. I will do a 'dry' run to make sure I can do it then I'll do it again measuring and fitting the correct gaps etc. I will not buy the two big bearings as they can fitted at any time afterwards - and they are expensive for a whim. Roger
  22. Hi Mike, make the new threaded section with a good bit of plain shank. Put a decent chamfer on both parts and when screwed up tight weld the chamfered area and file back smooth. No need for Loktite. Put nuts on the threaded area while welding to stop spatter Roger
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