TRier

Andy you’ve transformed that car, well done it looks fabulous. I note you mention you did the underside in Raptor, what about the chassis?

Good one, with an additional bolt on piece and a lock this one could be used to actually run the engine on where.needed.

I’d agree with this too, I just lifted the engine and box on and off my chassis for test fitting a couple of times over the weekend and wow it does give those brackets hell. Very marginal.

Yep, I’d be more comfortable with this set up. I totally agree that side mounting is going to be way more useful than the rear I just felt a bit twitchy about the standard engine mounting holes. This set up above would cover that off for me.

I’d have a slight concern about the loading on those top two 3/8th threaded holes for the engine mounting, is that valid? When you mount an engine on that stand usually, well any I’ve done in the past, you’re bolting straight though the bellhousing mounting holes in the block with a full bolt and nut, usually as large as you can manage. I’d have thought there was a moment of force here acting on those engine mount holes which is entirely different to the force they were designed to counter. Definitely great for access but it’d give me a twitchy feeling every time I went near it I think!

Thanks guys, I didn’t know that. Totally happy now, learned something plus I don’t have to mess about with rework, good to go!

Guys, very interesting post. I’ve just put new mounting brackets on my front diff bridge and a whole new rear diff bridge bracket, everything was jigged and fit together very nicely on test fitting, the mounting posts are parallel and the diff just slipped on. I did notice though that the diff isn’t level, I just test fitted the the full drivetrain and unsurprisingly given that the diff isn’t level the drive train as a whole doesn’t run in one plane, in other words the driveshaft doesn’t run straight through the UJs. I have a parts car so checked that and it’s the same, I note here that Stuart

+1.

+1. Cheap and nasty and regular failures even from relatively new. I’ve lost a Landcruiser engine through a stuck stat, sure enough it failed the boiling water test as described when it came out, good basic test. The bypass hole is a must really as per other post.

Thanks guys, you know what I think as advised I’ll keep it simple and go with what I’ve got and the saloon clutch plate and see how it goes, it’s not a mega task to take the box out and do an upgrade later if it looks like failing. I”ll open the box and take a quick look and if it looks OK just run with it. The box wasn’t expensive as they go.

I have 2 non OD TR gearboxes which I really don't want to fit to my restoration, recently bought, as a spur of the moment thing because I just came across it, a saloon J type OD box. I haven't done a lot of research specifically on this as yet but I understand that the input shaft diameter on the TR and saloon boxes is different (haven't checked tbh, will do now). So my thought was to change the I/P shaft to TR and use the saloon box (OD), probably overhauled, I assumed that the TR box could take more torque and hence had a larger shaft and bearings, you reckon there is no improvement in that

Can you take the input shaft from a non overdrive TR box and fit it to a saloon J type OD box or do you need to have a conversion shaft so to speak?

I think I’d like that approach. I’m a ways off that level of detail but the reason I asked was if one was going to use that beading should I have it to hand and use it when test fitting the quarters for the purposes of B pillar, deck and door alignments for example? Or is test fitting with the bare quarter going to be OK when subsequently fitting as finished using the beading? Thanks for the advice by the way.

Hi Stuart, does that stuff take paint or do you leave it’s native colour and just clean off the excess with petrol or something?

Hi Dan, I haven't had this experience on a TR6 but have had similar on other vehicles, check that the bleed nipples are actually open, its very possible to get corrosion in there and for the same amount of mechanical movement as provided fluid on the other corners you get none on some. Then as some of the other guys check that flexibles are OK. I usually use the old fashioned method of having a beautiful assistant pump the pedal for bleeding, have on particular car found that on bleeding from dry this method didn't work at all well on rears so went to pulling from the rears using a vacuum pump