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About TRier

  • Birthday 10/29/1963

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  • Location
    Kildare, Ireland

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  1. Hi Richard, that's an interesting bit of experience shared. FWIW it seems to me that there are often two requirements or stages for home DIY chassis restoration, ideally one would get the chassis media blasted twice, once to establish and expose everything that needs repair/welding/reinforcement and then again (and primed) for final finish and protection after the repair works. That gets pricey even with reasonable blasting prices based on the running around and dropping off and collecting alone. I'm doing my chassis at the moment and was toying with the idea of a descaling gun to do the first
  2. Well there was a problem as your battery was going flat, that’s real. Two alternators being faulty in the same way to the same degree is so unlikely you can discount that. As the multimeter is saying two separate alternators, one new, are giving out 17 volts lt seems highly likely the meter is wrong. If the alternator was putting out 17 volts and the battery was at 12 there would be very significant current draw so you should see a high current on the ammeter, so again that points to the multimeter being wrong. Disconnect the battery and test it’s voltage with the multimeter, if it’s reading s
  3. +1. Have a nice day Niall, maybe a spin! Niall
  4. Hi Keith, yes the rules are different, they are more helpful in terms of classic aged cars in that the authorities have just more or less taken a view that they just don't really matter so you can within reason do what you like, there is no MOT or NCT as it is here, fixed low tax rate. All of that much like the UK but the big difference being there is no 8 criteria here which have to be met or maintained to avoid the car being viewed as fundamentally changed, there just isn't any such rule, once the car reaches the age you could in theory make a new chassis or put a jet engine in it. So chassi
  5. I wouldn’t be an expert there but as there is no stamped chassis number on the TR6s why would one even bring it up, it’s not a serial numbered or unique part? In terms of a beneficial interpretation of the “same specification” a new chassis fits the bodyshell (which is the serial numbered piece in this case) or one wouldn’t buy it so it if it was me I wouldn’t even raise it.
  6. Thanks Alan, not irrelevant to me. Yeah the toe in isn't so dramatic so I would assume its well within the realms of adjusting with shims, interesting to see the practical impact in figures though, makes sense too in that the shims look like a mil or maybe 1.2 thick so double that for the adding at one end and subtraction at the other end of the arm and its going to end up somewhere like 3mm. Not exactly correct but close enough, I'm too tired for geometry right now. Thanks for the input, I'll use it.
  7. Not taken as critical or negative, I didn't breed the car I just bought the job of fixing it, if I bred it I might get offended alright . No, I appreciate the input and there is a lot of truth in what you say but it is what it is and I'm not going to reverse now, its doable and I didn't get into it as a commercial proposition, I got into it to teach my son some skills in a way that is interesting for him, that's already working so no complaints. I'll continue to strip this and look around for a short cut of some sort and failing that bite the bullet and do it the hard way. Like your work
  8. Hi mtrehy, yeah you're right its not great. Its a peculiar car, the inner sills are good, one of the floor pans is good, the boot is quite good, the rear wheel arches are good, the front wheel arches are good, the outer sills are bad, the front inner wings/fenders are shot in that they are both cracked at the flanged joint with the bulkhead and that makes the front of the car pretty much ready to fall off which is kind of dramatic! All the outer panels are really good but they could be replacements and just not seen much road, footwell kick panels again shot in that the flanges have gone where
  9. Thanks Stuart, great document. It fully addresses my question on whether or not there are camber adjustments. "No there are not but yes there are", so I'm happy with that. I've since done a "donk, dink" test on the upper body of the chassis and again still reserving judgement until its totally clean so the dinks are crystal clear but I think in the main its going to be OK, there are donks but so far only around the visible corrosion. Wow the oil leaks are such a benefit when you really look at it, there is clean bare metal in places up front under the oil grunge, not even surface rust! Logical
  10. Ah now I understand and I dont have to post the photos which were too big anyway! Thanks. RHS, 3U 1U, 4 shims inside 4 shims outside. LHS 3U 1U, 4 shims inside, 3 shims outside.
  11. Thanks, I had done that with a blunt chisel from underneath before I took the body off and was content enough but right enough I should have done that even before posting. I'll man up and do that this evening, always bit heart in mouth that kind of thing isn't it but better to know now for better or for worse! I have a boroscope device somewhere that connects to my laptop, might take a look with that too if I can dig it out.
  12. Thanks for responding Stuart, you're referring to the trailing arm support members or rails in terms of which way up? I'll take a couple of photos. I'll have a more detailed look but I did notice quite a few shims behind the inside mounting of the RHS trailing arm but didn't worry too much about that in terms of camber is I figured it would relate more to toe in and would account for the excessive toe in. The RHS toe in is too much for sure but not as dramatically so as the positive camber. I'll count and photo the shims. Yeah I'm assuming things will be rotten behind the TEEs just on th
  13. Hi folks, I've taken the body of my newly purchased TR6 restoration project. As expected its very rusty, what I wasn't expecting was to find that some clown had welded the chassis to the body on the passenger side and then covered it up with Schutz but lets forget about that annoyance for now. I'm not certain yet if the chassis is going to be repairable until I have it cleaned off totally but I think it is so I'm proceeding on that basis for now and that will hopefully be borne out. It needs two new trailing arm supports, both legs at the rear where the under boot/trunk bar is positioned, repa
  14. Hi folks, just a bit of feedback. Took the car to my registration inspection, it drove up on the trailer under its own steam and started and ran perfectly at the inspection so she now has her new Irish registration and I can start the restoration project without worrying about rule changes in taxation or registrations. I'll start another thread and note the problems I encounter along the way in case it helps anyone else sometime, meantime thanks again for the assistance in getting to this point. I've got it stripped now almost to the point where I can lift the body off, its like this, I h
  15. Hi Gareth, yes it does need a bit of TLC alright. Last night put in a clutch master and slave cylinder, cobbled together a half assed temporary repair on the throttle cable and it drove up on the trailer for its registration examination this morning. Cant say the little car isn't trying! Friday first start in 30 odd years and Sunday first self propelled drive, this car is going to make it.
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