TRier

Yep, seen them many times and its exactly that, simple handle to operate the shut off and the hole is for a chain so the key/lever doesn't get lost. You'll notice even with the more modern looking one John showed the image of has a hole in the key. I've put them on our horse lorry or other vehicles a few times and the one thing I would mention wrt the installation you've shown is that they aren't waterproof and can be prone to corrosion problems and heating when they get corroded. I know the sensitive bits of your one are "inside" so should be OK but just something to keep an eye on.

Nice idea, well done. Sorry for your loss.

I know where you are coming from based on a simple principle of taking off as little as possible but look I wouldn’t agree to be honest. If you take off the pedestal you can see what you are doing and the manual instructions make sense, it’s not hard with the FMU attached to the pedestal. I never got that 20 to 45 degree business to work properly and mines a CR. There is a very good description in the service manual for the fuel injection itself. I’ll dig it out for you, I had some issues purely because I misinterpreted what rocking meant on NO 6. The FMU but went by the book, the port disappe

How are you getting on with that FMU Robert? I'm new to this TR world but I did fit one very recently and with the help and advice on here it worked well, as someone who hadnt done it before I might be able to add a perspective if it helps. Shout if you would like some input or a step by step.

Hi Andy, I’ve nothing to add over what’s already been noted but just wanted to say you have the car looking good and clearly there was a lot of work. I’m in the early stages right now of a lot of welding and fabrication and just was interested in your comment about a lot of welding. What did you have to do, if you don’t mind sharing?

Hi Richard, that's an interesting bit of experience shared. FWIW it seems to me that there are often two requirements or stages for home DIY chassis restoration, ideally one would get the chassis media blasted twice, once to establish and expose everything that needs repair/welding/reinforcement and then again (and primed) for final finish and protection after the repair works. That gets pricey even with reasonable blasting prices based on the running around and dropping off and collecting alone. I'm doing my chassis at the moment and was toying with the idea of a descaling gun to do the first

Well there was a problem as your battery was going flat, that’s real. Two alternators being faulty in the same way to the same degree is so unlikely you can discount that. As the multimeter is saying two separate alternators, one new, are giving out 17 volts lt seems highly likely the meter is wrong. If the alternator was putting out 17 volts and the battery was at 12 there would be very significant current draw so you should see a high current on the ammeter, so again that points to the multimeter being wrong. Disconnect the battery and test it’s voltage with the multimeter, if it’s reading s

+1. Have a nice day Niall, maybe a spin! Niall

Hi Keith, yes the rules are different, they are more helpful in terms of classic aged cars in that the authorities have just more or less taken a view that they just don't really matter so you can within reason do what you like, there is no MOT or NCT as it is here, fixed low tax rate. All of that much like the UK but the big difference being there is no 8 criteria here which have to be met or maintained to avoid the car being viewed as fundamentally changed, there just isn't any such rule, once the car reaches the age you could in theory make a new chassis or put a jet engine in it. So chassi

I wouldn’t be an expert there but as there is no stamped chassis number on the TR6s why would one even bring it up, it’s not a serial numbered or unique part? In terms of a beneficial interpretation of the “same specification” a new chassis fits the bodyshell (which is the serial numbered piece in this case) or one wouldn’t buy it so it if it was me I wouldn’t even raise it.

Thanks Alan, not irrelevant to me. Yeah the toe in isn't so dramatic so I would assume its well within the realms of adjusting with shims, interesting to see the practical impact in figures though, makes sense too in that the shims look like a mil or maybe 1.2 thick so double that for the adding at one end and subtraction at the other end of the arm and its going to end up somewhere like 3mm. Not exactly correct but close enough, I'm too tired for geometry right now. Thanks for the input, I'll use it.

Not taken as critical or negative, I didn't breed the car I just bought the job of fixing it, if I bred it I might get offended alright . No, I appreciate the input and there is a lot of truth in what you say but it is what it is and I'm not going to reverse now, its doable and I didn't get into it as a commercial proposition, I got into it to teach my son some skills in a way that is interesting for him, that's already working so no complaints. I'll continue to strip this and look around for a short cut of some sort and failing that bite the bullet and do it the hard way. Like your work

Hi mtrehy, yeah you're right its not great. Its a peculiar car, the inner sills are good, one of the floor pans is good, the boot is quite good, the rear wheel arches are good, the front wheel arches are good, the outer sills are bad, the front inner wings/fenders are shot in that they are both cracked at the flanged joint with the bulkhead and that makes the front of the car pretty much ready to fall off which is kind of dramatic! All the outer panels are really good but they could be replacements and just not seen much road, footwell kick panels again shot in that the flanges have gone where

Thanks Stuart, great document. It fully addresses my question on whether or not there are camber adjustments. "No there are not but yes there are", so I'm happy with that. I've since done a "donk, dink" test on the upper body of the chassis and again still reserving judgement until its totally clean so the dinks are crystal clear but I think in the main its going to be OK, there are donks but so far only around the visible corrosion. Wow the oil leaks are such a benefit when you really look at it, there is clean bare metal in places up front under the oil grunge, not even surface rust! Logical

Ah now I understand and I dont have to post the photos which were too big anyway! Thanks. RHS, 3U 1U, 4 shims inside 4 shims outside. LHS 3U 1U, 4 shims inside, 3 shims outside.