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RMP NC

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  1. I have received the Heritage Trust Certificate for my car. Contrary to what I was told by seller the car was originally signal red w black interior and top. It had heater, windscreen washers, tonneau cover, whitewalls, and 60 spoke wheels. No mention of wood steering wheel which mine has and seems to be original. I guess disc brakes were standard then as that is the only other item on it I thought might be special but was unsure. Manufactured on 6 July 1964 and came to US out of Bristol on the "Hussaro". At some point in the car's life the colors were swapped as it has a black paint coat under the recent bad red job and they put in all red interior with a white top. But I suspected after closer inspection it was red originally. The original grommets and seals feeding cables and wires under the dash into the firewall are all red paint under them, so I was pretty sure it was red. Now I just have to convince a skeptical state inspection officer that I am not running a car chop shop ring or that the car was not stolen or that I'm not involved in some other criminal activity I'm too uninformed to even know exists. That I had a valid title from another state in the US makes no difference to the vehicle registration folks in North Carolina. I am hoping the heritage certificate which confirms all my numbers helps. I've heard of people having issues with just the fact that the numbers are stamped on plates that are pop riveted to the car vs the numbers being stamped into the actual metal of the car body. American cars from this era have a metal tag with the vin number stamped on it that's pop riveted in but also in two or three places that number is stamped in the actual body and chassis. These inspectors like to see that as they expect it. Clearly I won't have that since TRs don't have that. I plan to print out the info about how numbering works for these cars in case I need to show them. Assuming I get past them I will begin the process of restoration.
  2. Thanks. There are several areas of suspicion that I have to dig into. This area is actually the left side and on the back of the wheel well. You can see body fill work up to the rusted area in the fender lip. I've got to dig into it.
  3. Here are some additional pics showing some of the rust. As I originally said someone painted over everything in red paint, hiding a lot of the rust. They also over-painted a lot of parts.
  4. Alan - the chassis is in really good shape. There is floor rust, rust in each of the four cockpit corners, around the edges of the fenders (hidden by someone who covered w body fill and painted over), rust near the brake master cylinder, above the battery box, but it is all fixable. Doors open and close just fine. The bones of the car are good. It was kept road-worthy and driven until early 80s when it got parked.
  5. A local oil change/ tire shop was moving shops and had a 80s era lift for $800. Got it and installed. It's great but what a pain to de-install, move and install. Now it's the fight for what car is on it and shifting them about. I was not looking for another project when I found this TR4. But TR4 is one of my "if I ever get a chance I want one" cars and I had to get it. Too many rebuilds in the works. I fell in love with my uncle's TR4 when I was a kid. Here is a pic of me and my brother in front of it in 1970.
  6. OK, no solvents in the sump and turning over the engine, then. The oil pan can be removed w engine in car? I haven't been under the car yet to have good look. I've got a "61 Plymouth Fury up on my lift that I need to move to get the TR4 up there.
  7. I have decided to put the head back on and see if I can get it to run before I go further. There are no obvious issues w the moving engine parts I see. Starter spins engine just fine w no head, valves all seem all free, straight, etc. I'll have to buy all the parts now -carb rebuild kits, engine spark electronics, fuel pump, thermostat, and of course the gaskets, etc. to put the head and manifolds back on. Going to try to clean the engine internally as much as I can with a solution to remove the settled gunk in the oil pan. What suggestions for this? Diesel fuel or kerosene in the crankcase and turn to engine over some to work it thru? Drain and repeat a few times before I add oil? Carbs have to be rebuilt regardless as do other accessories so if I get it running and it has some major mechanical issue that makes me have to rebuild the engine, all of the accessories are reusable - gaskets are not of course. If i can get the car where it runs it makes working on it for everything else much easier as I can move it around as I need. Any advice appreciated.
  8. Engine is finally freed up after soaking and tapping. Going to see if I can make it run and how bad it may be. May still have a rebuild in my future.
  9. Thanks for all the good advice. It is very much appreciated. I’ll post some pictures later- Head is off, looks like three cylinders are sticky, if not stuck. Number 1 drains the liquid over time, has a different sound and feel when you tap it where 2-4 hold it, sealed tight, different sound and feel when you tap. Had diesel in for over a week already. Previous guy had something like diesel in it also. Now have the best penetrating oil I know of here, Seafoam brand, in there. Am putting on some cut pipe with big washers to block the sleeves from slipping up. Then I’ll put a bit of energy into the hammer and wood. There is a decent (to me anyway) YouTube video series of a guy in Toronto rebuilding a TR4 engine and he shows that technique too. I have seen endless discussions of which penetrating oil is best. Seems Plusgas is great from some discussions I’ve seen but it’s not available in US. Tried to order it from UK sites but they won’t ship to US. Keep the suggestions and info coming. Thank you again. Russell
  10. Thanks again to all. Getting the removed parts today. I’ll post some pics of a few details of them and the car itself. Have had penetrating oil on the pistons for a week now. Plan to try rocking the car in 4th gear today to free engine. If that fails then the head comes off and the hammer and wood come out. If that fails then plan C has to be developed.
  11. Thank you all for your welcoming comments. I am eager to get going on the TR4. My uncle had one in the 60s when I was small and my fond recollections of the sounds, smell and feel of being in the car remain today. I have spent time in the Pennington Arms- stayed there. As to relations at the castle, my ancestral Pennington's landed in New Haven, Connecticut in the early 1600's. I tie in with the current Pennington's in the castle from way back, so I am related little more than in name but for an American mongrel it is very fun to see my family name associated with the castle there. We met the owners a couple times before the raptor center was established, had a private tour by Patrick Gordon-Duff-Pennington once, during which he talked at length about the great need for and the cost of a new roof. He was so nice to us and was an entertaining and charming gentleman. We miss that area and hope to visit England and Muncaster again.
  12. Thank you John. I'm Russell Pennington from North Carolina. Here are some pics of the car as it sat when I got it. you can see the red interior and wood dash/wheel. This weekend I'll get into it a bit more and take some engine compartment and other pics. Any hints, pointers, observations welcomed. BTW, I have spent a lot of time in the UK, lived for a year in Weybridge, Surrey and have spent many days in Cumbria around Muncaster castle area (noting you are in Cumbria).
  13. Hello - New member and new TR4 owner in USA. I've acquired what is titled as a 1965 TR4 but has a commission number (CT35002L) indicating what seems to be an early 64 build. The car apparently was originally black exterior, red with white piping interior, wood dash and steering wheel, painted spoke wheels, front disc brakes, AM radio, soft top only, and no overdrive. I am unsure of which of those items are optional and/or what other options were possible. The car is fitted with Zenith-Stromberg carbs and I'm unsure if those are original for this build. The car generally is together but most trim and removable interior exterior parts are off the car. The engine is locked, appears to have been sitting in a garage since late 80's. It was acquired in an estate auction by a dealer after the owner died I assume. I got it from the dealer after it sat outside on his property for more than a year. It was given a 1980s era terrible overall red paint spray without masking a lot of the engine area and wiring, painting over what looks to be normal for its age body rust. I estimate the reason that most exterior and interior parts are removed was for this painting. It looks like it was then painted and left sitting since 1989 or so. The rust in general can be repaired easy enough and does not extend to the main visible body panel (is in floor mostly). This weekend I am getting all of the removed parts and pieces from the most recent owner. Right now I am missing the commission plate, hope to find it in the parts coming to me, but I do have the number from the car title. I am first trying to free the engine and get wheels off to free the rusted brakes which prevent easy rolling. I am also just getting myself acquainted with the details of owning a TR4 and the things to know and watch out for in the restoration process. I have restored several other other vehicles, including a '69 MGB GT so I have restoration skills and experience and have done with a British car in the past. I will admit this one is further gone than the MG was -the MG was a runner, just had terrible rust. I welcome any hints, suggestions, questions, etc. Thanks in advance.
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