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About RMP NC

  • Birthday 07/07/1962

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  • Location
    Greensboro, North Carolina
  • Cars Owned:
    ‘77 MG Midget, ‘69 MGB GT, 61 Willys Jeep, ‘65 Plymouth Fury Convertible, ‘70 Dodge Challanger

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  1. Here is a good pic of it what you need and shows what I lack. I am reminded of the O'Henry short story "The Gift of the Magi"
  2. I'd be tempted to start with a bolt of the right size, put it in a vice and use hand files to shape it for purpose, then put a small bolt through there (use a brass bolt if you want) with a hole drilled through to fit the cable. Maybe even just putting a bolt with a nut on each side of the lever would suffice. Or use a "shoulder bolt" which would give the diameter to drill the cable attachment hole. Maybe I'm too much a shade tree engineer. I made such a contraption that serves as the fresh air pivot arm for my Dodge Challenger shaker fresh air system. I did have a small pile of rejects b
  3. In case anyone else may ever be looking for this and be thwarted, I found in a 2004 posting from another forum measurements from what is supposed to be an original untouched car: Measured at places where a straight metal tape would cross, measurements are the sheet metal, not including the chrome fender bead... Bonnet opening, rear, measured just in front of the cowl vent -- 46 15/16" Bonnet opening, front, measured just behind the hinge arms -- 45 11/16" Bonnet itself, rear, measured at rearmost point -- 46 9/16" Bonnet itself, front, measured at frontmost point but not as ac
  4. Who must I ask and/or how do I? I have not seen a link for this. Thank you for the help.
  5. I give up. It is not a hard question but it is a fair question that I ask. Answer me or not, I’m done explaining.
  6. Now I remember why there is no name given for me. It is because i cannot find anywhere to add it or to change my user name. If there's a trick let me know. I've looked a few times and gave up.
  7. Thank you and happy to give a name. I put it in my TriumphExperience forum account, not sure why I didn't here. Russell M. Pennington
  8. I had literally this morning read a post from 2015 on this topic, which I just went back and re-read and indeed the consensus and strong suggestion from you, Mike Richards, on that post was to NOT lube them. I misread it earlier and so I do see now the suggestion is not to lube them. The ones inside the valve cover will have oil on them, can't help that. Not sure the difference that makes but I have read it correctly now. Thanks.
  9. So far the engine has ran about an hour. I will re-torque at some point for sure. I believe the procedure is to lube the head nuts well back off each in turn 1 flat and then torque to the correct original setting in the same order as the head is originally torqued. When this is done does it require to reset the tappet/pushrod clearances?
  10. Thank you for the thoughtful replies. I do appreciate the advice on what to do. For the under bonnet, I did not plan to do any re-bending of the body off the frame. The fit of the bonnet and fenders was very good before I took this off the old frame. I plan on having to fit the body to frame before I can finalize the body to paint. It is not easy without typing a lengthy message to convey the plan or reasons for asking. I've had several discussions with friends in my garage about the state of the body and this information serves multiple purposes, some just to settle friendly discu
  11. I made a small test board to wire up the engine so I could run it on the frame and see any leaks or issues before I put the body back on. Here's a short video of the first run.
  12. Here is the inside of the wheel arch after I removed the rubber undercoating - the stitched weld and color change is clear. A green donor was involved.
  13. My 64 TR4 was hit driver side front sometime in the past and repaired. I've found a replacement frame as the old frame although bent back to about in shape was bent and I did not trust it. I am now about to deal with the other aspects of that accident and damage on the body. The car as I got it from outside view had really good bonnet to body gaps, etc. and it may be ok, but while body is separate and before I am done with my cutting and welding I wanted to verify the body repair to the wheel arch, and inner fender was workable. The wheel arch was cut and replaced from about 2/3 back of th
  14. 1970 Dodge Challenger. Approx 400HP, 500ft-lbs torque from 408 cubic V8 (stroked 360 Chrysler LA block) with stock Chrysler A833 4-speed trans. Owned since 1989, was my drive to work car for 10 years, sat for 10 after and has had two restorations since 2009. First one left some issues which I went back and handled. From factory it had glue-on vinyl roof which trapped moisture and made rust issues on and under the roof. Put on new roof skin, hood, fender, rear quarters. Door skins are only original sheet metal on car now. All stock interior and other fittings on car.
  15. That is exactly what I was wanting to confirm. The mechanism seems to articulate well now but I did want to make sure the lock washer would release to take advantage of that end play. I will whack the wishbones a bit to force the wishbones outward. Russell
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