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RMP NC

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About RMP NC

  • Birthday 07/07/1962

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  • Location
    Greensboro, North Carolina
  • Cars Owned:
    ‘77 MG Midget, ‘69 MGB GT, 61 Willys Jeep, ‘65 Plymouth Fury Convertible, ‘70 Dodge Challanger

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  1. Yep, liners secured with head bolts sleeved with pieces of pipe, holding big washers, etc.
  2. When I do this should I go ahead and do more in there? The timing chain, seals, etc.?
  3. Thank you for the quick reply. That does make sense.
  4. My 64 TR4 came to me with engine frozen. Unstuck with penetrating oil on cylinders after a few weeks- did pull the head to tap on the pistons and I unstuck it. Motor turns freely now. Engine still in car. Dropped oil pan today to clean and inspect the bottom and found metal in the pan. Can’t tell what this is or if it is as bad as it could be. The material is thin spring steel kind of metal and definitely steel, magnet grabbed it from the oil and gunk in the pan. You can see a stepped shape, like a tab on a piece of it. It seems thinner than a rod or main bearing would be. Spark plug shown to give scale. Any idea what this piece of metal might be and what indication this is? Clearly metal not good but it might be something that got dropped or was some sort of clip or something and not a bearing or other catastrophic fail part.
  5. RMP NC

    Tr4

    The closest I'll ever get to a Spitfire is a British sports car. I suppose that is the appeal of these cars for a lot of people - it's the closest they will ever get to WWII era fighter cockpit. Like other arguable examples, the Spitfire was perfectly designed for its intended purpose and at the apex of what was possible for the time. It's beauty (sight and sound or the Merlin) are undeniable. I don't know many car guys that don't also love the old war birds. The sound of the Merlin in a Spitfire or Mustang gives me chills and brings tears of joy. I was lucky enough in the early 90s to see Chuck Yeager and his WWII wingman Bud Andersen fly a pair of Mustangs in formation in an airshow in Winston Salem, NC.
  6. RMP NC

    Tr4

    This is why they draft 18 yr olds and not 30 yr olds. ;-). This has been out since 2006 so plenty of time for it to get around. I first saw it a few years ago and still go back and watch it now and again. Always makes me smile.
  7. RMP NC

    Tr4

    I must admit to going for a month telling people the handbrake was frozen on my car. Let's just say everything got really well lubricated and strength tested in the process of my discovery that it worked differently. I am reminded of the Spitfire 944 documentary short film where the pilot accidentally hit the emergency wheel deployment system and jammed the gear. He said he about broke his arm trying to use the cable release to let the gear down. He said the ground crew told him he had stretched the cable a couple inches pulling it. I didn't stretch my cable but I sure tested the brake handle and locking mechanism. :-) Most of you guys will like this - watch it. A hidden story for WWII:
  8. I will check as you suggest. Thanks
  9. Hello I have seen mention in many threads of the inaccuracies of published diagrams re wipers an lights, maybe more. I have pulled down the autowire diagram nd seen others. Apologies if I missed it but is there a corrected or summarized listing of the errors in that diagram? Just wanting a clean accurate version. Again, apologies if I’m overlooking it, probably am. Thanks for your help. Russell
  10. I had noticed other reference to the Autosparks brand on the forum here but after I had gotten the Rimmer version already. Looks like Autosparks is about $50 cheaper. If it is same quality that should have been my choice probably. Anyone compared the two versions?
  11. Great advice. I will try to profit from your learning. Something easy to do on the bench can be impossible once installed. There are several accessory kind of things like reversing lights, horn button, turn signal switch, etc that are adjunct to the loom and while they have attachment points will not lend themselves to fiddling much once the thing is in the car. Because of the condition of my car I have to change the loom to really test things. And especially I really want to get the engine going. The original wiring is all painted up with terrible overspray making it hard to see wire color. There are cuts in the loom and just overall problems. For example I was trying to trace the voltage to various key points and was getting inconsistent readings at the same point. Found out the ignition switch is cutting on and out explaining the appearing and disappearing voltage but I also know that the entire dash is just dead (more or less) so among other things, likely the voltage stabilizer is not working. As I started thinking about it I just decided I'd go after the wiring and get the elec part of the car worked out. So my plan is to fit the loom in the car, get the basic wiring right with the car largely still under construction, get the engine going (it was stuck and I had to pull off head), then based on how well the engine seems I'll decide next steps. Either way the loom will come out again for me to complete the body work and paint. Then it all can go back. I appreciate that i could just pull the engine and have it redone but if the engine will run I'd prefer to delay a rebuild for a next phase after I basically get the car under its own power. Additional advice appreciated.
  12. Just wanted to relate that I ordered and received quite quickly for US delivery a wire loom for my 64 TR4, which is the blue tape version. The Rimmer site shows a blue tape loom in the picture but what you get is a black tape version. Rimmer said when I contacted them to inquire why the difference, that they say somewhere in their terms on the website that they can cosmetically change things or something like that - buyer beware I guess I did pull out the multimeter and traced the wire in the loom against the wiring diagram and it's sure enough correct functionally. So, it would seem it works but if you care about the color, its wrong. They offered for me to return the loom which I may do. I't just a pain and an additional delay to deal with. I was a bit angry but have calmed a bit and may just use what I have. I did quality check every wire end traced back to where it is supposed to go. Anyway, just a warning that if you do go for that blue tape picture you won't get the blue tape product. As with most things AFTER I had already purchased the Rimmer loom, I looked deeper and it seems maybe there is a better alternative for wire looms - cheaper, better? What would you guys recommend?
  13. I will follow that advice and lube the threads and the O ring. Any other lessons learned please share. My earlier difficulty was removing the needle itself. I got myself confused with all the info out there about the top needle adjustable versions which I think came later in the carb developments. There is a special adjustment tool you can buy for this. I looked for that hex head needle adjusting screw above the needle for a long time before I got it straight that the needle was fixed and adjusted from below. All I had to do was remove the small screw on the side that holds the needle then use a soft vice clamp to old the needle and get it out. Did that without bending or breaking the needle. This was the first carb, number two will be faster with lots less cursing.
  14. Penetrating oil and pulling outward on the outside bolt end while twisting popped it out. O ring deteriorated and made a sticky ring that was holding it. The power of anticipating everyone reading my post in the days to come filled me with ingenious inspiration it seems.
  15. Moss motors calls this a Bushing Retainer and shows for a wide range of years for TRs. Similar to what I have but different too - in material and the external head shape. This one looks like you could tap or press it out. Mine rotates just fine it won’t come out with what I consider reasonable force pushing it out. That cast aluminum version I have is probably pretty brittle so I don’t want to put too much force on it.
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