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About RMP NC

  • Birthday 07/07/1962

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  • Location
    Greensboro, North Carolina
  • Cars Owned:
    ‘77 MG Midget, ‘69 MGB GT, 61 Willys Jeep, ‘65 Plymouth Fury Convertible, ‘70 Dodge Challanger

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  1. Russell Pennington is my name. Thank for your advice. One thing I know that might tell you something is that the door gap on side opposite the hit is wider at the B pillar at top than bottom by .5-.7 inches. Before noticing the hit I was looking for a bend upward in the middle on that side but maybe that gives a hint of how the hit affected the frame? I will be evaluating the frames and I did believe I could, with the tools and knowledge I have effect a repair that would work. Until I do the evaluation that part is all open. The donor frame sits flat to me although I’ve not leveled
  2. That may work. The rot in donor starts just back of the suggested cuts. Going to be interesting as I get into the measurements. Such great advice guys. You’ve all given me some great things to think about. Keep it coming!
  3. The frame on the car has no rot. I have been pretty well over it with a chipping hammer while up on a lift. The car was hit in the left front sometime in the past and was repaired and driven for some time after. The donor frame I bought for $200 has some rot.
  4. Thank you for the replies. Wish CTM was near me. I may look for a US based frame shop after I measure everything. I am going to finish my structural body work to get it stable and brace up the cockpit. I will then separate the body from frame and measure and remeasure and do some testing to decide if it is easier to fix original frame, repair the rot in my donor, which I got cheap (and transfer the rack mounts to it), or go to a plan C and seek a better frame from somewhere. Measuring both frames carefully and cutting into the rot and probing for more in my donor will tell all I think
  5. I said in another thread that I had discovered damage and needed to address it. Here are some photos showing the bent control arms, broken tower brace, re-welded askew fulcrum pin mount, spring helpers inserted in the spring coil and the general disposition of the RH side with LH side shown for comparison. Assessing which is easier, to refurbish a donor frame I have that has different rack mounts and some rust damage or to try to repair and use this one. Thoughts, suggestions and your good counsel appreciated.
  6. I have learned a lot from the advice on this thread. Ammeters in a TR4 seem to be ideal for monitoring the charging system when you have a dynamo/generator and have to manage the lower current output when in traffic at idle, etc. where an alternator doesn't have this issue. That my experience managing charging current in a vintage car has largely been with the Chrysler system that for some reason kept using an ammeter long after they went to an alternator meant the concerns and issues with that Chrysler system were my baseline for this conversation. Their system was prone to fire and they cl
  7. Sorry if I shouldn't post non-TR pics. Didn't think before I posted.
  8. It has been a vanishing point car since 1989 when I got it.
  9. I am not a "mine goes to 11" kind of person. If I use the 50 amp it is because it is simply my choice to use it. I have a garage full of spares for my various cars and I use different options and such to suit my taste and needs. The 50amp is not a necessity thing perhaps but it is a choice I may make and an option that I will have. I want to have that gauge and am buying it. I may start with the 50 amp installed or I may not. If the scale of the 50 amp proves to limit its usefulness in normal use I may replace it. I may put in a voltmeter. I may put in an altimeter or accelerometer
  10. Basically I prefer to keep as much original as I can but also the parts I keep are good metal and I simply cut out the bad. To me that keeps the car together better, less chance for it getting skewed, etc. Also it is harder to cut the spot welds, grind them clean and fit the total new piece than it is to cut the new piece and weld in just the part I need. I can piece that floor in and after paint you'd never know it was welded unless you went looking for it directly. I've done other non TR cars where I regretted making the other decision after fitment issues from poor stamping of metal
  11. Plan on using a belt driven fan, will have reasonable modern audio setup (small head-unit w bluetooth), have a new SPAL fan for heater (using the setup w the motor controller that was recently covered in this forum), may use elec fuel pump w inertia switch, plan to use a elec ignition module (like the pertronix setup) and will use more or less regular headlights, otherwise stock. Think that about covers the options on the current draw areas. I have a brand new harness and will be getting new or cleaning up the contacts on my switches, fuse box, etc.. I think I'll be safe but I will
  12. Thanks Bob. That's really good to know and helps a lot. I think the quote I listed above was from you by the way.
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