Jump to content


TR Register Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About unclepete

  • Rank
  • Birthday 10/22/1956

Contact Methods

  • AIM
  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Location
    southend on sea essex
  • Cars Owned:
    TR3a 1958
    TR7 V8 1982
    TR6 1970 (current)

Recent Profile Visitors

485 profile views
  1. Hi Jon Been reading this thread with interest. I have a 69 US 6 brought back to the UK by Pete Fenlon. He did a body off restoration and converted her to right hand drive. He also fitted her with a J Type overdrive. Another project (TR250) took his fancy and I managed to persuade him to part with it nearly finished. The Engine was rebuilt with a replacement head (later wide port) and the original inlet manifold (narrow port!) and Stromberg Carbs put on to get it through an MOT. I then drove it from Manchester to Southend on Sea (fingers and everything else crossed). I finished a
  2. Thanks Guys, I haven't run her up as yet and am going to operate on the mechanical fuel pump to start with. I can pump fuel into the carbs manually and check fuel level without the engine running, see how that goes and then check it when (if) I get it running. I'll keep you posted on how that compares.
  3. What about the other end? you can't quite see what you stuffed in there
  4. I am embarking on the rocky road of installing Triple Webers on my US TR6. So far I have the Weber DCOE40s, Bastuck Inlet Manifold and Exhaust Extractor Manifold. I have also read a huge amount of contributions on this Forum (many thanks). However one thing I cannot find is, what to do with the Original Carburettor Manifold Heater Pipe? Shall I Plug it or put in a bypass pipe? Also, looking at the Kieth Franck white paper on tuning Webers, I did not realise how critical, setting up the fuel level is! His method of removing the main jets and putting in an optical fuel level gauge
  5. Hi Kevin Been reading this thread with interest. I have a 1970 US TR6 which came to me with a set of TR4 Strombergs fitted to a short inlet manifold. All ran fine but I was not happy with the set up, especially the throttle linkages and the Inlet manifold. I managed to track down the later inlet manifold (same as yours) which has a much more even, smoother gas flow to the head, just looking at it made sense. I also managed to find a set of almost mint Zenith CD175's from a mid 80s Range Rover, which the owner had swapped out for a downdraft Holley, after 18 months of owners
  6. Too late! All done and up and running, seems fine. 10 degC ambient and left running on fast tick over for 1/2 hour. I'm happy enough to leave it in for this year
  7. Dropping the H20 and going for waterless coolant!
  8. All of the above presumes the timing is OK? Me? - I fitted electronic ignition.
  9. Hi Jamie I have a 1970 US car with Strombergs. I have found infinite variations on the type and combination of components fitted depending on the emission specifications. These early Strombergs usually have a fixed needle and an adjustable Jet. The centre screw at the bottom of the carb winds the jet up or down. I have found a good start point (with the air filter assembly removed) is to check the shoulder of the needle is set level with the base of the piston, via a grub screw in the side of the removed piston. check the diaphragm has no tears or holes, then reassemble. Next wind t
  10. I did have a similar problem with a TR7 converted to V8. Within the wiring loom, the feed to the coil passed through a resistor when cranking the engine, dropping the voltage to about 8v, if I remember correctly. This was a hangover from the original 4 pot engine and ignition setup and reverted to 12v when off crank. The Rover V8 electronic ignition system was voltage sensitive and was a pig to start! Under advice from the Dizzy Doctor I bypassed the resistor within the loom, giving full 12v when starting/cranking the engine. Problem solved....... I am not sure if this is a feat
  11. I had a similar problem and went through all as Ian above has mentioned. I eventually found that one of the diodes had failed (popped) in the lamp control box. There are two in each lamp raising/lowering mechanism, I think replacements cost me 80p each, a bit of deft soldering and hey presto all worked fine! I should mention the fun I had taking each of the headlamp assemblies apart at least twice! Good luck
  12. Hi Chris Had exactly the same problem as you on my 3a. Oil pressure no problem (at tickover 60-65 psi when cold 45-50 psi when hot) then all of a sudden nothing? No horrible noises or grinding coming from the Engine? Same as you limped home and scratched my head. Turned out some muck/debris had caught under the oil pressure regulator ball bearing. If I remember correctly, the following method is not too mucky and oil did not leak out of the engine; On the Oil Filter head at right angles to the filter, you will see a large nut and a locking nut with a adjusting screw in the middle. I
  13. Swap it for a nice new smooth belt and don't use WD40! Use a preparatory drive belt spray.
  14. Check you haven't got a chunk missing out of any of the fan blades?
  15. Hi Luka You might want to look at the remote selector shaft assembly. There are 3 which connect the gear lever to the selector forks. Under these shafts there are small indents which locate small spring loaded ball bearings, these keep the selector forks in the correct position when changing gear. I found mine had become sloppy and had exactly the same problem as you but in 3rd. Removed the gearbox tunnel, dismantled the remote selector shaft assembly (be careful not to drop anything into the gearbox) and replaced the springs and ball bearings. Worked fine afterwards and saved having to
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.