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Everything posted by stuart

  1. Hmm not good, thats why I always fit new. Stuart.
  2. Looks as if your right Andrew, more than likely something in the boot caused it, check for where the wires are the most fused together thats often the seat of it, I would fit a complete new loom regardless as you dont know if its compromised the insulation somewhere else. TR Shop looms are fine. Stuart.
  3. Thats the top of the rear inner wing by the looks of it, You will have to make those yourself Im afraid, not overly difficult and something Ive had to do umpteen times. Stuart.
  4. Only if it wasnt torqued up properly as it should be Nylock. Though depends on what drive shafts you have fitted? Stuart.
  5. Its the R number you need to check for, minimum R9 but my preference and what I fit is R14. Stuart.
  6. Horsepower is how fast you hit the tree, torque is how far you moved the tree. Stuart.
  7. Usually for a door that sticks out at the bottom I put a small block in the top of the door shut and then with the door against it use a "G" clamp over the bottom re-enforcing triangle and over into the door frame and then wind the bottom in with the clamp until the door suits the rear wing lower section. Stuart.
  8. I would have thought someone with a lathe could make you up a new one slightly oversize to enable it to be pressed in and peened over. Stuart.
  9. Well done James though TBH unless you were in a hurry I would have done all of them in one go The idea to use the flanged studs did come from the race/rally guys for just the reasons you pointed out. Stuart.
  10. You could but TBH I find the best is a 1/2" hole at each end then Waxoil pumped right through and then fit grommets each end will out last you and me. Stuart.
  11. I believe white hoods have always been an option and were often fitted to US export cars. Stuart.
  12. If you mean the door bottoms at the rear are protruding a bit (not unusual) a skilled body man would be able to cure this quite easily rather than resorting to filler. Stuart.
  13. No Roger its not unfortunately, Sidescreen inner sill is pretty much a sealed unit so drains are needed. Stuart.
  14. Do you know the provenance of the s/hand shaft? I`m wondering why anyone would bother undoing the hub nut unless it was a failed attempt to remove the hub in which case it may have already been over strained on the shaft. Personally I wouldnt have touched it with a barge pole. Not nice to have a hub shaft part company. Stuart.
  15. But are the missing bits in the sump? Stuart.
  16. No Ive seen some with a screw cap like the prop and also a turnkey too. Stuart.
  17. No where the two halves slide together. Stuart.
  18. Shafts arent handed and are the same through the range with some slight differences in where they join. Stuart.
  19. Quite often that area needs leading to get that line straight to suit. But sometimes the beading will hide that, thats what it was there for in the first place. Stuart.
  20. You need both seals as its always best to do both at the same time. Stuart.
  21. Yes you can, get a six sided 11/16 socket instead of the usual 12 sided then you will get proper purchase and get them done up to 65Ftlbs then they dont come loose. Stuart.
  22. I would just fit new studs for the wheels your going to fit as those are definitely not long enough, correct ones have a slight lead in taper on the nut end to ease fitting of the nut. Stuart.
  23. Thats the difference between IRS Hubs and solid axle hubs, IRS hubs need the chamfer. Stuart.
  24. If you use the thinner spring insulators all round that will drop the suspension by a fair bit in comparison with the thicker ones,https://www.superflex.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=SF378-2327K also you dont normally need to disconnect the drive shaft to drop the spring out, with standard length springs you usually just have to disconnect the shock drop link and the trailing arm will drop far enough to get the spring straight out, so that tells me your springs arent standard Stuart.
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