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  1. MARK


    Thanks John. I do have a lazer thermometer. Should be able to see which feed is hottest with it. Maybe the copper pipe run close to the tubular exhaust manifold might help. Going to check the return pipe for blockage as well. Going to go for winter rated thermostat. You can bet I will get it going red hot by summer!!!! MARK
  2. MARK


    I was also thinking that using a copper pipe to do this mod mounted close to my sports exhaust manifold and under my triple weber carbs, to feed the heater, might pick up some radiated heat from the exhaust manifolds. This might also give faster demisting ?? !! MARK
  3. MARK


    Hi Sean I am pretty sure that is the return pipe from the heater matrix to the water pump. I notice from your picture that you appear also to have a blanked outlet higher up on the side of the thermostat housing. I can see the blanking bolt head. Maybe I should have said thermostat housing instead of water pump housing in my post. What I need to know is if i take the feed from this outlet on the side of the THERMOSTAT housing will it provide a higher temperature than the normal feed at the other end of the cylinder head. A great picture Sean which helps explain what I am trying to suggest ! I hope !!! MARK
  4. MARK


    I remember an article in the Mag about a heater modification that took the feed for the heater matrix from the water pump housing. I noticed that my TR6 CR has a blanked take off already. I presume that a TR 250 housing which would have the take off for the heated carb manifold , has been fitted in the past. My question is,- If I took the feed from the this blanked off outlet to the control valve would the water temperature be higher than the current set up that feeds the control valve via the extension adapter from the cylinder head.? My heater is a Clayton uprated one but I am still disappointed with output. I have an uprated control valve ready to fit with higher flow (FX Taxi !!) so was thinking of doing the mod at the same time if there would be an advantage. MARK
  5. MARK

    Horn fuse blowing

    Finally solved the horn / interior light fuse blowing !! The power feed wire to the head lamp flasher terminal on the column dip switch has been rubbing against the indicator cancellation ring on the column and has been occasionally shorting !!! Hence I could not replicate the problem in my garage as it was only going to happen when the steering wheel was well rotated !!! ELECTRICAL GREMLINS ON OLD CARS !! Rather satisfying when you beat the little beggers though!! ( Fingers crossed and touching wood !!!!) MARK
  6. Re the very good Tr 5 - 6 Toyota brake conversion article on page 32 issue 315 of TR Action by Dennis Hobbs- Re the requirement to make new metal pipes between the hose and caliper - does the Toyota caliper have an imperial fitting or metric ? MARK
  7. MARK

    Horn fuse blowing

    Thanks as ever Rodger for your words of wisdom !!!! Going to try that next but got a broken front spring at moment and trying to source of 10% uprated slightly lowered to match the recently fitted rear springs ! wishing that I had replaced whole wiring loom instead of just the rear! Hindsight is a wonderful thing.! MARK
  8. MARK

    Horn fuse blowing

    Thanks for your reply Pinky. I think the horn switch is to earth and so a short in the steering column should trigger the relay and cause horns to sound. Am I right anyone? MARK.
  9. MARK

    Horn fuse blowing

    More electrical gremlins on my 73 cr tr6! My horns stopped working and I found the fuse -35 Amp had blown. I replaced this and all was well. I checked for any obvious wiring issues and found none. On taking car for MOT I checked horn on the way and found fuse had gone again! I replaced fuse just before reaching the MOT station and it lasted for the test however by the time I got home the fuse had gone again! This fuse covers the horns,all interior lights and the headlamp flasher. All bulbs on interior lights (underdash, boot) are not fitted at the moment. the glove box bulb operated ok when I earthed it (Switch missing). The interior light switch is not fitted at the moment and connections are insulated. So far I have checked that the circuits from the fuse are not showing a leak to earth by putting a test lamp on them with a feed directly from the Pos battery terminal. I have also checked that the horn push is ok by removing the trigger connection from the relay and using a test lamp. I have taken apart the Lucas relay and could find nothing wrong and no sign of shorting. I have checked all the bulb holders and no sign of shorts. The headlamp flasher operates correctly( new switch). I have been unable to replicate fuse blow in the Garage even with ignition on and lights. Before I start an autopsy on my wiring loom, has anyone had the same problem? I must be missing something !!! Any words of wisdom as ever, very gratefully accepted !! MARK
  10. Thanks very much for the words of wisdom. Stuart - as ever - would make sense to replace whole loom but as I had the car interior totally stripped out last year for repairs to heater plenum and bulkhead I think I fixed most front wiring issues to the front. This included replacing most of the connectors ! Extremely time consuming Rear loom replaced and all working now. Just one or two issues with earths and old bulb holders ! Much thanks for advice ! Just need to replace trim now !
  11. I have to replace the rear of my wiring loom as the current one is toast and resembles several colours of plastercine mixed together with the odd bits of naked bare wire showing. I had to jury rigg brake lights to go our last run and amazingly the rear lights worked !! Am I likely to hit any problems and does it matter which way I feed the loom ? Start from rear or the front ? Is there a correct route for the loom as I don't know if mine current loom is routed correctly. As ever, any wisdom or tips are very welcome !! MARK
  12. Thanks Tim - This is the mod I remember !
  13. A few years ago there was an article in the mag about improving handbrake efficiency by moving the fulcrum point closer to pivot point on the handbrake lever. I seem to remember Triumph recommended the mod for another model - Spitfire?? What location on the lever should the new hole be (closer to pivot point) be drilled? ( Diagram would help!) Is this an effective mod ? MARK
  14. Thanks Dave. I did not know the bottom joint would rotate. On axle stands and ready to sort after grandkids weekend stopover!! Also found brand new rubber steering joint I forgot I had! P.S. Flashing stainless steel goodridge hose across the battery terminals when fitting a new clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder is not fun and brands your hand when you pull it away! The joys of TR ownership!! MARK
  15. Thanks Daven. Seems a lot to do just to get indicators to cancel ! I might just cheat and drill another dimple hole for the clip in the right position on the steering column!
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