MARK

Thanks as ever for your words of wisdom Roger ! MARK

I have a recover kit for my H Frame. Is it best to leave the old covering on or remove before glueing the new cover on ? Any advice on the best way to fit it would be very welcome !!! MARK

Thanks John. I do have a lazer thermometer. Should be able to see which feed is hottest with it. Maybe the copper pipe run close to the tubular exhaust manifold might help. Going to check the return pipe for blockage as well. Going to go for winter rated thermostat. You can bet I will get it going red hot by summer!!!! MARK

I was also thinking that using a copper pipe to do this mod mounted close to my sports exhaust manifold and under my triple weber carbs, to feed the heater, might pick up some radiated heat from the exhaust manifolds. This might also give faster demisting ?? !! MARK

Hi Sean I am pretty sure that is the return pipe from the heater matrix to the water pump. I notice from your picture that you appear also to have a blanked outlet higher up on the side of the thermostat housing. I can see the blanking bolt head. Maybe I should have said thermostat housing instead of water pump housing in my post. What I need to know is if i take the feed from this outlet on the side of the THERMOSTAT housing will it provide a higher temperature than the normal feed at the other end of the cylinder head. A great picture Sean which helps explain what I am trying to

I remember an article in the Mag about a heater modification that took the feed for the heater matrix from the water pump housing. I noticed that my TR6 CR has a blanked take off already. I presume that a TR 250 housing which would have the take off for the heated carb manifold , has been fitted in the past. My question is,- If I took the feed from the this blanked off outlet to the control valve would the water temperature be higher than the current set up that feeds the control valve via the extension adapter from the cylinder head.? My heater is a Clayton uprated one but I am still

Finally solved the horn / interior light fuse blowing !! The power feed wire to the head lamp flasher terminal on the column dip switch has been rubbing against the indicator cancellation ring on the column and has been occasionally shorting !!! Hence I could not replicate the problem in my garage as it was only going to happen when the steering wheel was well rotated !!! ELECTRICAL GREMLINS ON OLD CARS !! Rather satisfying when you beat the little beggers though!! ( Fingers crossed and touching wood !!!!) MARK

Re the very good Tr 5 - 6 Toyota brake conversion article on page 32 issue 315 of TR Action by Dennis Hobbs- Re the requirement to make new metal pipes between the hose and caliper - does the Toyota caliper have an imperial fitting or metric ? MARK

Thanks as ever Rodger for your words of wisdom !!!! Going to try that next but got a broken front spring at moment and trying to source of 10% uprated slightly lowered to match the recently fitted rear springs ! wishing that I had replaced whole wiring loom instead of just the rear! Hindsight is a wonderful thing.! MARK

Thanks for your reply Pinky. I think the horn switch is to earth and so a short in the steering column should trigger the relay and cause horns to sound. Am I right anyone? MARK.

More electrical gremlins on my 73 cr tr6! My horns stopped working and I found the fuse -35 Amp had blown. I replaced this and all was well. I checked for any obvious wiring issues and found none. On taking car for MOT I checked horn on the way and found fuse had gone again! I replaced fuse just before reaching the MOT station and it lasted for the test however by the time I got home the fuse had gone again! This fuse covers the horns,all interior lights and the headlamp flasher. All bulbs on interior lights (underdash, boot) are not fitted at the moment. the glove box bulb operated

Thanks very much for the words of wisdom. Stuart - as ever - would make sense to replace whole loom but as I had the car interior totally stripped out last year for repairs to heater plenum and bulkhead I think I fixed most front wiring issues to the front. This included replacing most of the connectors ! Extremely time consuming Rear loom replaced and all working now. Just one or two issues with earths and old bulb holders ! Much thanks for advice ! Just need to replace trim now !

I have to replace the rear of my wiring loom as the current one is toast and resembles several colours of plastercine mixed together with the odd bits of naked bare wire showing. I had to jury rigg brake lights to go our last run and amazingly the rear lights worked !! Am I likely to hit any problems and does it matter which way I feed the loom ? Start from rear or the front ? Is there a correct route for the loom as I don't know if mine current loom is routed correctly. As ever, any wisdom or tips are very welcome !! MARK

Thanks Tim - This is the mod I remember !

A few years ago there was an article in the mag about improving handbrake efficiency by moving the fulcrum point closer to pivot point on the handbrake lever. I seem to remember Triumph recommended the mod for another model - Spitfire?? What location on the lever should the new hole be (closer to pivot point) be drilled? ( Diagram would help!) Is this an effective mod ? MARK