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About JohnC

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  • Location
    Sydney, Australia
  • Cars Owned:
    1971 TR6 owned since 1985

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  1. Don't you hate it when somebody brings facts to an interesting discussion? Thanks Marko. You're not only an amazing machinist, but you know "stuff" too
  2. Unless you're incorporating the Lambda sensor into a feedback loop, the distance from the manifold isn't a big deal. If it has its own heating, even less so. I originally had one fitted just before the silencer, and moved it to the downpipes when I had a new exhaust system fitted. The relationship between manifold vacuum and AFR didn't change, even when looking at narrow RPM bands. Not that I could see, anyway. Obviously, if you're using the sensor to drive an EFI it's different. But for tuning the Lucas PI, or carbs, fit it where convenient. In fact, probably best at a point where the mixture
  3. Is the fit between injector and throttle body/ bush a big issue? I'm really not sure, but I do wonder if the air leaking past is pretty insignificant...
  4. I can't tell you how much I laughed. Go Norm!
  5. Hi Peter (and others), Thought you might be interested to see data from a UEGO sensor, which clearly shows opportunities for improvement as you suggest. The car runs a standard CP cam, with PI set up per the Lucas manual for a TR5. Head is gas-flowed but standard exhaust. Sensor is AEM 30-4110 wide-band; Data are logged using an Innovate LMA-3 Auxbox and PL-1 data logger. Also logged but not shown here are RPM, acceleration and sideforce. The 3D chart has vacuum along the long axis, and AFR on the short axis. Height is the frequency of reading. You can see that during the log period
  6. No it's not, and no you're not. But the addition of a vacuum calibration rig would make tuning more repeatable, i.e., a vacuum generator + accurate vacuum gauge(s) to allow you to measure/ adjust cam follower gap (aka fuel delivery) at different vacuum settings. Even better, the means to log vacuum and AFR while driving, for later analysis. Cheaper and more fun than a RR. Oh, and as well as the three rings, there is max fuel and datum track gradient. But all are simple. Just require care because very little adjustment does a lot. But all totally do-able. John
  7. How did you do that? I have tried a few times to remove my windscreen but the long bolts just will not move in the brackets. So far the only violence I've applied has been to put a nut on the end of the bolt and then belt it with a club hammer.
  8. No real need for an adapter if you have a compressor (and they are seriously cheap these days, and so useful). Just apply an airgun to the orifice. You'll get enough of a seal to do the job. Unless your injectors have been reconditioned recently, it's worth replacing the internal 'O' ring as well. That may be the cause of your original problem anyway...
  9. Fair enough - I was being a bit persnickety! I wonder if the necessary stiffening would still be provided if the tank were mounted via rubber bushes. And you get no argument from me on bonding of fuel systems. I've seen the result of static build-up in another place. Here's a pic
  10. Hi Bruce, I agree. If some of the seals have given up then all are suspect. The injectors are working for the moment, but I'm going to change the 'O' rings anyway. The vacuum diaphragm I'm going to leave well alone, and the MU diaphragm seems as soft and pliable as ever (and is a silly price), so likewise. I suspect it's a different material anyway. John
  11. Coincidence - I just replaced all the seals in my MU (I was lucky - the two diaphragms appear OK). I last replaced them 20 years ago, and all was well until I took the head off for gas-flowing last year, and the car stood idle for ~3 months. After reinstalling and the head, I kept getting a nasty backfire which no amount of fiddling with timing, PI calibration, butterfly balancing would fix. Finally replaced all seals and 'O' rings, and all is sweet again. Very sweet
  12. Mine has lost its foam, assuming it was an original item. Sounds (ouch!) like a good idea to reduce drumming. In your case, might as well be safe as the original foam may be not only not flame retardant, but actually flammable and in a toxic way...
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