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  • Location
    Sydney, Australia
  • Cars Owned:
    1971 TR6 owned since 1985

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  1. Hi John, That initial high pressure, followed by a big fall, does suggest to me an inlet problem. If it's not too much of a pain, why not try taking a (new) hose direct from the fuel tank outlet to the pump? That would tell you if there's any blockage you need to look for in the stuff you've by-passed. I once found a tiny piece of plastic bag blocking the pump inlet filter that way. I know you're an old hand at this, but sometimes the obvious...isn't. JC
  2. Hi Steve, What was the end result? What work did the crank need? Cheers, John
  3. I admire your perseverance. When my diff blew up I went with a Quaife LSD. Probably a silly waste of money but I try not to think of the TR as a practical & economic vehicle. Actually I don't need to try too hard
  4. I happily did something (almost) completely pointless to my 6 this weekend. I recently fitted a shiny new Revotec fan to replace a 25yo Kenlowe that had given up the ghost, and I've been casting around for a manual over-ride switch. As I now have a thermostat in the top hose and in the bottom hose (just because) I thought it would be fun to be able to select manual/both/top/bottom. Look what I found in the depths of the garage - a RATOG switch from a Seafire It has four positions but more importantly it doesn't feel plasticky. Can anyone beat that for pointless fun ? J
  5. I had a TT1200 manifold and didn't need a spacer. FWIW I have a 1971 car, in case that makes a difference. BTW I removed said manifold a few years ago and replaced with the original cast iron model. Much flatter torque curve and hence much, much less peaky power curve. I think I have comparative dyno tests somewhere if you want to see them. TT1200 may be a good manifold for the track, where you expect to be up near the red line most of the time (so I understand; I have little track experience), but not on the road. IMHO. Disclaimer: I have a fairly hairy cam (please don't ask) which may exacerbate the peakiness for my car. Cheers, JC
  6. I saw an ad on eBay for a hood cover which can be fitted to the hard top (inside, pop-fastened to the rear shelf). Seems to imply the soft top can be left in-situ when the hardtop is installed. Is that possible/correct? I always remove the soft top on my 6 when I install the hardtop, and I can't see how I could leave it in place; at the very least I'd need to unbolt the rail at the back where it fixes to the body. Of course it's more likely I'm competely misunderstanding how this item is meant to be fitted. Perhaps it's just to hide stuff on the rear shelf... Anyone able to shed any light on this? On a related subject, does anyone have a copy of the hardtop fitting instructions they could send me? Cheers, John
  7. JohnC

    Door Hinge Question

    FWIW I refurbished a couple using roll pins after drilling out the hinges to suit. Drilled the centre very slightly larger than the outers. Easy, quick and cheap. Only issue was that a couple of hinges I tried to fix refused to cooperate - I couldn't get the pins out. Both the pins and hinges were worn btw. Thanks to Richard Crawley for the idea. I think I have a note somewhere of all the relevant drill & roll pin sizes that I used if you need more info. Cheers, John
  8. JohnC

    Metering Unit setup

    Peter, I think we ought to nickname you "Spike" BTW I've just fitted a wideband UEGO sensor and data logger recording AFR, vacuum, rpm and acceleration. Once it's all working properly I'll see if I can spot the lean spike while driving on the road. I don't feel any hesitation, but perhaps my MU is set rich enough that it doesn't lean out enough to affect power. May be different once I start tweaking the max fuel setting. Cheers, John
  9. Hi Graze, FWIW the cam in my 6 is 40/75 (at 0.010" lift) and I see 10"Hg at idle (800rpm). The idle is a little lumpy, but not excessive IMO. It used to be very peaky but I advanced the cam, which helped a fair bit. If you do buy the car and want the PI sorted you may want to give Peter Bower a call. He set up mine and I'm a happy camper. http://www.bowerpower.com.au Cheers, John
  10. Hi Mike, Out of idle curiosity, do you know which adjustment he used on the CU? I'm guessing it was the large (A1) screw, but I wonder if he moved the datum track itself - I think the mixture enrichment lever has exactly the same effect as this adjustment, so could be used to perfectly reverse the adjustment when at low altitude. Drawback is it has to be done off the car; it's fiddly; it's hard to replicate... Cheers, John
  11. Mine were a straight bolt-on. As for cost-benefit, they were the right answer for me. They solved that worrying shimmy, which had given me a couple of interesting moments. At the time (10+ years ago?) the originals were not available, and nor were the GKN alternatives (or the latter might have been but v pricey). BTW I think they use non-standard UJs. Not sure as I got my local specialist to do the UJs last time they needed replacing. Cheers, John
  12. Similar to Bryan and Peter, mine used to do a little shimmy on the first change accelerating after a corner. If I was accelerating hard I'd describe it as more of a hop. Not good. I had the half-shafts replaced with a mod using Datsun drive shafts. That solved it. Since then I've put in polybushes all round (standard stiffness though) and that tightened up the handling wonderfully. Cheers, John
  13. JohnC

    Fuel flow

    Almost completely off-topic, but here's a result of using the wrong spec fuel hoses. On a ship. Four sailors died in the resulting fire. BTW, the hoses were wire-braided and failed after only 40 HOURS operation. Me, I try to stick with fuel-related components from reputable suppliers. No 100% guarantee I suppose, but I feel safer.
  14. I'm so glad that others do things non-believers would think utterly incomprehensible in the name of understanding! Leif, I feel your pain But really good diagnostic idea. Cheers, John
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