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About JohnC

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  • Location
    Sydney, Australia
  • Cars Owned:
    1971 TR6 owned since 1985

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546 profile views
  1. I found that with my old fuel hose the resonance could be induced or stopped with tiny changes in length between pump and where the hose went through the body (pump is in wheel arch). A small adjustment by pushing or pulling the hose through the grommet was enough. I've changed to the Barricade (appropriate spec) and no resonance, even with a bit of pushing & pulling. Not proof, but I wonder if replacing old, and potentially soft, hose with new stiffer hose was what cured the problem. My 2¢ worth... John
  2. If fuel line melting is a potential issue, I suggest an airtight engine room with inert gas flooding. Works on a warship... But seriously, is the melting point at a temp likely to be seen in an engine bay other than when on fire? If it is, then defo no-no. If not, I'm not sure what the issue is? And I do mean "I don't know". Seems to me that if there's a fire, no fuel line will maintain its integrity. But I'd be curious to know if that's not the case. John
  3. +1. In Sydney, in summer.
  4. Marco, I am unbelievably impressed with your engineering skills, but utterly amazed that you did this without the intention to fit it to a specific vehicle! I take off my hat to you. I am not yet at the stage where I want to install power steering in my 6, nor do I think I have the skills to meet your requirements of a competent purchaser. I hope your masterpiece goes to a good home . I shall now turn my attention to the MX-5 box... Cheers, John
  5. For a basically standard engine, or even one mildly warmed over, is there any point? There's always somewhere to spend the money. John
  6. JohnC


    Just replaced the high beam, oil light and indicator warning lights in my TR6 with coloured LEDs from Classic Car LEDs. The diffusers have deteriorated, but the replacements are still brighter than the old white bulbs. Worthwhile, and if your diffusers are stuffed then a simple and cheap fix. John
  7. ...but so much more satisfying to have the right tool. Better still if you've made the tool yourself. And the ultimate satisfaction can only be achieved if you've made your own tool to make the aforementioned tool. Go Roger
  8. And the great thing is that you can easily re-calibrate it if you move the car to the southern hemisphere. Magnetic dip is different here.
  9. Is that a competition rule, or an industry thing? I'm feeling left out - my car has an LSD but in a stealth unpainted housing!
  10. Can't you just use a square drill
  11. That was my experience when swapping back from a TT1200 6:2 manifold. Really good at about 6000RPM! But poor in mid-range. The standard TR6 manifold is much more drivable than that one. But I believe it was developed for top-end power (didn't know that when I bought it) so that makes sense. Horses for courses. John
  12. That's the single most noticeable improvement I've made to my 6. After a rebuild 20 years ago, I still remember the smile the smoothness brought to my face. Not to mention the extra 1000-odd RPM I felt able to use ( didn't dare go close to the red line before!). I'm intrigued by that, and not in a skeptical way. That's the next mod on my roadmap, now that I've done the head gas-flowing and CR increase. I'll probably go ahead regardless, but I will do before & after dyno runs. John
  13. JohnC

    Gas Struts

    Hi Jerry, Who is RS? If possible, please would you post a link? I too hate the rattly strut, and the ratchet on mine is very hit & miss. Perhaps there's a trick I don't know about. John
  14. Not sure what you mean. The LED is admittedly screw-in (GLB987, as is original), but it is "plug'n'play" otherwise. Have you changed the bulb holders to bayonet? It's also only £3 (plus P&P I expect) so maybe worth trying?
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