JohnC

You've explained it! It was Coriolis Effect

Why not ditch the oil cooler? Just one more thing to go wrong... I fitted one before bringing my 6 to Sydney 30-odd years ago but cooling was still marginal until I replaced the old sludged-up radiator with one that works. Then I removed the oil cooler when it split and dumped oil all over the road. Never had an overheating problem since then, even sitting stationary in traffic for half an hour on a day in 40C heat. I have an electric fan also BTW, but it was a puller and I had to change it to pusher to fit CDD's PAS! My 2¢ worth, JC

Why do you think I was so sure it was a timing issue? I rebuilt the engine on my 6 20yrs ago and can attest to the fact it will run backwards...

Wot he sed

Sounds to me like badly wrong timing. All the other suggestions here would certainly contribute to rough running, but not (I think) to the extent of farting and banging. To repeat and add to what's been said so far: have you checked that TDC as marked on the pulley is *really* TDC? Is static timing 11 BTDC and not 11 ATDC? Have you got the firing order correct (1-5-3-6-2-4)? My Leyland manual has 6&4 transposed... And do you have a spark on all plugs? Please do make sure you report back on progress. We always learn something. Good luck, John

I love that TR drivers are considered so svelte

They are indeed a good read, and the table should take the guesswork out of camber adjustment. I love the precision of the work. Somebody has too much time on their hands Anyway, I think I'll go with the brown book spec, following John's recommendation of loading as well. Cheers, John

Hi John, Where does that guidance come from? Is it in the specifications section or somewhere more obscure? That's exactly what I was looking for in my books but couldn't find it. Thanks, John

Hi brains trust, Please would you help me get the camber correct on my '71 TR6 CP. The car is presently in a workshop on a hoist is so it's an ideal time to check. BTW, am I correct to assume that "two-up condition" referred to in the manual means "there need to be two people in the car when you check the geometry"? Or does it mean "set up unladen in the expectation the car willl be driven with two people in it"? I have three sources, each giving different info: A pdf copy of the TR6 Repair Operation Manual, Second Edition. Brown cover, publication 545277/E2, page 04.3: 1 degr

Don't you love autocorrect? I'm pretty sure you mean "starvation " Andy, try running the engine with the filler cap open. If that doesn't fix the problem (and I'm betting it won't as you haven't mentioned changing anything in that area), then you have something in the feed to the pump. It's just possible the PRV is at fault, but that would be permanent, and it sounds like you can at least start the engine. There's a toenail clipping, or a cockroach, or a small plastic soldier, or maybe even a bit of dirt in the line. Please provide photographs when you find it. Good luck, John

Thanks Peter. I may be wrong, but I think the Hankook Kinergy is still one of the "long mileage" tyres. Yes, it's not a van tyre, but still not a soft compound. I'm probably being precious, as I only drive the car on the road in what I hope is no more than <ahem> a responsibly spirited manner, but I'd like a tyre designed for handling and grip over longevity. I wrote my TR6 off 18 months ago by spinning coming out of a roundabout. At 40kmh. Old tyres I think. That was scary, but I still can't afford the Pirelli/Michelin period-appropriate tyres. But the Hankook tyre is on the list. Right

I had similar symptoms about 30 years ago. Turned out to be a small piece of plastic bag which was blocking the intake to the fuel filter. No idea how it got there. Anyway, as Roy said, it sounds like a restriction in your fuel supply, which is causing the pump to cavitate. Do report back once you've fixed the problem. Cheers, John

And what is "this"?