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About JohnC

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  • Location
    Sydney, Australia
  • Cars Owned:
    1971 TR6 owned since 1985

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417 profile views
  1. I've taken the view that TR6s were hoon's (Aussie for not very intelligent but liking speed) cars back in the day, and would have been fitted with any available lo-fi enhancements. So I have a doof-doof sub-whoofer, kidney panel tweetery things and back panel mid range speakers. I still can't hear them when driving, but I'm sooo offensive at the lights :O
  2. Sounds like you may have a combination problems. As you just replaced the MU and distributor, the most likely cause is in one or both of those, or in the stuff you disturbed in the process. Where did you source the replacements from? The erratic timing can only be either a worn distributor or, at a stretch, tired harmonic balancer rubber. Most likely distributor. Shouldn't cause the lack of response though. I'd call the supplier and get their opinion. Was it fully reconditioned? I had mine done by Martin Jay and the timing is rock-solid. The lack of response could be any number of th
  3. JohnC

    Head ID

    Even better is the pdf, updated version direct from Kas Kastner. I think he wrote the original one Bruce refers to. I have it, and it's a goldmine. JC
  4. JohnC

    Head ID

    To be honest, early days. It does *feel* like it's quicker, and revs much more freely, but head work is expensive so I'm bound to say that (!). I have a wide-band AFR sensor on the car, and that shows that I'm getting much higher AFR (i.e., more air) and I need to recalibrate the PI. Trouble is, from your point of view, that I changed cam at the same time. So who knows what was from the cam change and what was from the gas flowing. Worth noting though, I went from a stupidly high overlap cam to the original "150BHP" cam. I shall put the car on a rolling road once I'm happy with the tuning, but
  5. JohnC

    Head ID

    Ummm...I can recommend RAMS Head Services in Sydney, but that doesn't help you much I'm afraid. Based on the conversation I had with the proprietor at RAMS, the gas-flowing is pretty straightforward and involves mainly increasing the radius of the inside bend of the intake & exhaust ports. So, providing you can find a machine shop that does head gas-flowing, it shouldn't be a problem. I shopped around a bit to find what I felt was the right balance of "trust me, I'm a doctor" and "let's discuss what you want". It always worries me when a supplier of services doesn't want to listen! Ka
  6. Fair enough. I would like to understand how a moulding process can produce internal threads though. And I mean it - any reading material gratefully received. JC
  7. How do you do that unless lost wax or some similarly expensive method? I doubt that was the method. Let's not diss the designers out of hand. More likely various owners have overtightened. Having said that, I'm about to fit a steel front bridge from Goodparts. I have already helicoiled the threads, and they hold just fine, but belt & braces. BTW if you helicoil a UNF thread, you get closer to UNC in the alloy while maintaining the original thread for the bolt. But as JRD says, sticking to the designed torque is the secret. JC
  8. JohnC

    Diff oil

    So were Penrite's Australian tech department when I asked the question nearly 20 years ago. Glad they're consistent
  9. Your concern might be better placed with the light and ignition switches. If there's any corrosion in the contacts the current draw from the lights or fuel pump can heat things up quickly. I'm a big fan of relays to deliver the main current for anything with a decent current need, using the original (aka expensive and hard to replace) switches to simply carry the relay switching current. Lights, fuel pump, electric fan, AFR sensor pre-heater, heated seats. OK, joking about the last, but you get my drift. As a bonus you can run nice fat cables to the relay and thence to the load. Less voltage d
  10. I've found that after about 5-6yrs the grip deteriorates noticeably even if there's plenty of tread left and no sign of damage. At least, the new tyres grip noticeably better than the old. In particular I notice the car stopping in a much shorter distance. Of course I can't say in all honesty that I know how much worse the old tyres became compared with when they were new. My suggestion is to do yourself, your family and other road users a favour and ditch them. You may also be preserving a TR in the process! JC
  11. JohnC

    Head ID

    Seems a shame to have the head off and not get the gas flow sorted. It's only money, after all . Kas Kastner provides a good overview in his book, and the TR specialist tuners will all be able to help.
  12. I'd be inclined to follow the instructions in the manual! To the letter. I've managed to get my 6 running backwards by being a little cavalier about which one is which
  13. Apologies for the thread digression - I think Mike (the machinist/artist behind much of Eric Rudd and team's wonderful work) is still to be seen around Geoff Morse's Peninsula SportsCars. And Richard (also at PS) isn't too shabby when it comes to remembering the idiosyncrasies of individual cars! But they do accept MGs as well...and Astons, Jags, Sunbeams...what is the world coming to? JC
  14. Yup, that's who mine came from. It's concerning that many of these recommendations are for individuals. Like our cars, we wear out. Unfortunately, for our cars and our families, we can't be rebuilt (unless your name is Steve). It's great to read recommendations for technical solutions, whether they be CV joints or those tasty looking items David Vessey supplies ("If you need to ask, you can't afford them"?). Thanks Stuart and others for the pointers to solutions that don't require a skilled machinist, or skilled mechanic at least, to apply. JC
  15. Not to mention that the donor car may now be a collector's item
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