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astontr6

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About astontr6

Profile Information

  • Location
    Burnham, Bucks.
  • Cars Owned:
    1973 TR6 from new.

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354 profile views
  1. Hi Roger! I would have to agree with Roger. But the design of the RHP bearing to me is suspect as it is a low cost item intended for industrial applications? I am not certain that it s/b used in automotive applications! Yes I know it works to a degree but the major design fault to me is that it is not sealed and as soon as it is fitted and used the grease inside it starts to fly out and in a very short time there is no grease inside. During my years of ownership of my TR I have had a least 6 of them as they have suffered from the scream, some failed as soon as the clutch was operated, caused by no or very little grease inside or the grease has gone hard. I note now that my local bearing distributor has these RHP bearings all in sealed bags. There are other designs out there which are sealed and can take heavier loadings. I think it is time to find something else that works? The TR Spares development fund s/b on to this? Bruce,
  2. Hi Chris, There is a company called Renovo ( tel: 01444 443277) who produce a kit to reproof mohair type hoods it also contains a black dye to colour out the white marks or fading caused by UV attack. It also reproofs the hood at the same time. There is also a cleaner in the kit. They produce kits for all types of hood material. Bruce.
  3. Roger,

    I have searched all my electrical boxes for my car but have not found? I suspect that I binned it!

    Bruce. 

  4. Hi Dave! This is my experience based upon 37 years of Bosch pumping. I am not convinced by some of the PI specialists who use a solid PTFE hose rated at 1000 psi from pump to PRV which gives the dreaded harmonic hammering and you have to use one of his PRV's' to cure this problem,he is based in Wales??????. My system is based upon info that I was told by a Bosch engineer in the 1980's. He told me the pump type to use and the Bosch pre- filter type + the bore size of pipework from tank to pump and the type of high pressure hose pipe and rating to use. Bosch pumps need a flood supply of petrol, nothing less than 3/8" bore certainly not 1/4" as original. The hose that I am now using is the Gates type' Barricade Fuel injection rated at 223 psi WP, which is fully flexible and has never shown any signs of harmonic hammering or its predecessor. The Gates hose is fully ethanol resistance to 85%. If you want more info PM me. Bruce.
  5. Hi Richard, The killer is that gas pipe thread on one end that is what I was told it was by a local hose/fittings stockist! The other end is 1/4" UNF. For me it would have been a simple job to turn up a proper replacement adaptor. Bruce.
  6. Hi Neil, Originally, there were 2 types of filter for the CAV filter assembly one for petrol and one for diesel. I am not certain that the petrol type is available anymore? Flow rate to the Bosch pump! The CAV filter assembly does not give the correct flow rate to a Bosch pump even with the correct filter? I have used a Bosch pump for 37 years and used a Bosch pre-filter or Mahle type with 12mm bore pipework from tank to pump. No problems with cavitation or harmonic hammering of the PRV. The Lucas 1/4" bore pipework is even too small for the Lucas pump! There was going to be a BL mod to increase the bore of this pipework but never implemented . Bruce.
  7. Hi Neil, Are you still using the original Lucas CAV filter system? If you are there is a bleed screw on the top of the zinc die casting to let out the trapped air which was in suspension in the petrol. If this screw is not opened up periodically you will get air in the injectors as it seems to be a collection point for trapped air in petrol. Bruce.
  8. This can be a bit of a tricky one? I assume that you are talking about the straight adaptor that screws into the flange on the M/U as the thread that screws into the flange is UNF and on the other end it is a male gas pipe thread. The replacement ones that Rimmer & Moss are selling are not well threaded and look second hand to me? As I did buy one! But PTFE tape may cure your problem. My original M/U had a hard red fibre washer to seal the flange which I found unobtainable from the usual suspects and also from a local pipe fitting stockist. Bruce
  9. Hi Roger! The O/D switch on the TR6 has always been a bit suspect and of limited life! I have had at least 4 in 45 tears of TR ownership all with the same fault? The ops lever goes limp! Then the o/d jumps in and out, as it has a mind of its own. They are not that bad but the Clear Hooters windscreen/washer switch replacement for a CR TR6 from Moss is super ****! I have had 5 in 5 years! My last one has lasted more than a year! I thought that this is where the TR Spares Development Fund should take over? Bruce.
  10. +1 They are known to be the DB's for transmission work in the S,E. for all marques, this is where I would go! In my view diff work is a precision job well beyond most classic car workshops! Bruce.
  11. astontr6

    Lucas fuel pump

    Hi Pezza! The key issue is to guard against volt drop when the ignition key is turned. The wire size was increased in size sometime in 1972 to 2mm sq. I changed mine to 3mmsq rated at 33 amps when I went over to a Bosch pump in the 1980's. Make sure the inertia switch contacts are clean as these can cause a problem. A good earth is a must. Bruce.
  12. Hi Phil, I replaced that short piece of pipe when my power unit was rebuilt. The original was a piece of black nylon 66 0.229"/ 5.8mm bore pipe. My car is a 1973 CR type and the major part of the pipework is plated steel tube. My metering unit has a screw in fitting on the flange which is a UNF thread but the male part sticking out is a gas pipe thread!!! This is all original and had me fooled for a while??? The male part on the steel return is UNF. you will find that Triumph modified this pipe on later cars as per my set up. I also clipped mine so there is no chance of it coming off. The nylon pipe was obtained from a local hydraulic pipe/fitting company who also supplied the black injector tubes. Make sure you keep the fittings safe. Bruce.
  13. Hi Rich, The first thing to check is have you got the correct size master cylinder as it s/b a 0.75" bore type and not a 0.7". Then check as stated above, the TR clutch system will not tolerate any play or oval holes in the clevis pin yokes. In fact the whole system s/b play free in all the moving joints. Get someone else to operate the clutch pedal to see how much movement there is in the pedal before the clutch operating arm moves on the side of the gearbox. Lastly make sure that the carpet/underlay underneath the pedal is not causing a problem i.e. too thick! Bruce.
  14. Hi Geoff, My advice is don't fit anything less than a Lucas 18 ACR type as fitted to US models. It is rated at 45 amps and has no problem keeping your battery fully charged on low annual mileage TRs. I have used one on my car since new for 46 years! Bruce.
  15. Thanks for that! I have now ordered mine! Bruce.
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