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  1. I got the set, but the inserts are too long (1.5 D). I got shorter ones (1D). I tried them at a worn thread for the seat rail (same size as the nut for the dashboard support) and it works.
  2. wish you all the best with your new friends! The grass is always greener on the other side.
  3. yes, that will be the easiest way but if I ever sell my car the future owner will send me to hell. Waldi, I will try the helicoil. btw, what is the correct thread for stud (rear hub unit to trailing arm)?
  4. My favorite solution is repairing the thread with helicoil. If this will not work I try the 5/16. But I am not sure about the helicoil
  5. UNF 5/16-24 Is that the right thread?
  6. Thanks. Welding new ones is no option ( hopefully). Is it possible to thread a german M8? Or maybe a good adhesive? The threads are not good but not totally damaged.
  7. This weekend I spent my TR a new carpet (from a established german manufacturer, a desaster, never again, but thats another story). I have to take all the interior out, so the dashbord support thing too. 3 of the 4 threads are not good anymore. What us the exactly size of the threads? The english have so many standards. And what is the best/easiest way to repair them?
  8. Never had any problems with power delivery out of bends with my uj-shafts. Whereas the CV-shafts are not that problem-free, many german drivers would confirm that. In my opinion the UJ-shaft works very fine as long nothing is worned out. I would go for reinforced shafts and joins combined with the Quaife-hubs.
  9. I do not believe that opening the hub with a powerinput of 30 or 80 tons will left the parts without any damaging. If a 50 years old hub gets separated that way you can immediately go for a new one.
  10. Roger, I agree with that. But like Ralf and Bruce I would be very carefull. So Ian should have a look or better an ear if there are any noise to be sure that the bearing is greased.
  11. Yes, normal size. I am using the 141 in my car with a B&B plate and a Toyota bearing. works perfect. An d I had lots of troubles in the past with my clutch. I know 142 I know from my time with a Saab 900 Turbo some years ago. In the Saab it worked nice, only just a little more power is needed. I guess (!) that you will need a stronger leg in the TR as well but not that much that only an athlete can use it.
  12. Try the Sachs 3082 100 142 Its for Saab 900 turbo. It is for stronger engines then standard PI. The "weaker" Sachs 141 works perfect in standard and mild tuned TRs, up to 170 PS I guess.
  13. that is the best setup, no doubt. Unfortunately, the pump is not available anymore, sometimes you found a NOS for some hundreds grands (the last one on Ebay was about 600 USD, but it is at least 30 years old). So it is all about to find the best replacement for the 996. And most of the TR-owner uses pumps with a too high fuel rate. That leads to try wider drains, overheating, etc., all the well known problems. The 996 was used by Volvo. And Volvo recommends a polish successor for the 996, that pump is very cheap (less than 40 Euros) but from good quality. But it works with even lower pres
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