Tim D.

My '72 CP also has a green oil light Tim

About the same as a bog standard 2020 VW golf. 0-60 times are comparable. Tim

I do similar but using a magnet or 2. Works v well Tim

Have also used the silicone inserts.. work well but make sure the profile of the section that fits in the arm itself is correct. there seem to be at least 2 types. runing NoS blades in the TR. Work very well Tim

How I lift my hard top off. (Stag). Electric winch from Lidlington Tim

I used a load of E10 during the round Britain Reliability Run. No choice as the fuel shortage was ongoing. Didn't notice much different. Car ran well and economy was pretty similar. I am running the correct ethanol proof hoses. Only thing I have noticed is over wintering the car with a tank of petrol that has a mix or ethanol contents. When I restarted it seemed to flood a little easier but cleared its throat after about 50 yes Tim

Have you tried swapping the Fuses. I've had a few that were faulty with the internal wire not soldered to the end cap. Tim

Had mintex on mine and they have worked well including on alpine descents. Only issue is some squeeling when cold. Tim

Coil would be my guess. Had similar symptoms a few times and it was generally a coil. Tim

I have a strongman lift. Works great. Tim

Yes its fun

I was in the same situation a while ago. Fitted an oil cooler as I knew I was going to add a supercharger in the future and thought the extra oil cooling would be helpful. I fitted the cooler without a thermostat and the idle oil pressure was more than adequate even after a day driving the autoroute. However I was probably overcooling the oil somewhat and perhaps not a good thing to do long term. Once the supercharger was fitted and engine rebuilt I added the thermostat and all is good. you can "see" the thermostat open by a slight flicker of the oil pressure gauge. Normal summer running

If you are re-using old wires from the battery that are covered by plastic covering very carefully check that they are not broken internally. I had a similar problem. The multimeter said the wires were all fine, but then it is only loading the wire up with milliamps and even a thin wire strand will work. When you load it up with the start it is pulling quite some Amps and then you need all the strands.. In my case the wire from the battery had almost completely broken where it connected to the starter and the heatshrink was covering the break!. The only real test as mentioned already is t

Stuart is as ever spot on! I have a "test track" locally that includes a nice range of road surfaces including a couple of pot holes (no trouble finding these!). My experience was that softer damping rather than harder was best. I did have spax on the rear before I rebuilt the car and these (Even full soft) were too firm, I now have Konis and they feel great. And remember you have a chunky ARB on the front which keeps things from rolling too much on corners It is also correct to say you do not need to match makes front to back.. side to side, yes... Interestingly the thing that

I did away with the cover and just crackle painted it.. 6 years later and it looks great.. Ony issue is it gets hot in hot weather and is a bit warm for the knees if you wear shorts. Tim