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Tr4aJim

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Everything posted by Tr4aJim

  1. Tr4aJim

    TDC, ??

    I recently did this with my TR4A, using a piston stop. However the tough part was gently rotating the engine, as getting a good grip on the crank pulley or fan extension is elusive (I have a plastic fan, so using that was out). So here’s what I did. 1- disconnect the battery 2- pulled all the spark plugs and put the piston stop in the #1 cylinder (first take a peak in the open hole, or reference the dizzy, and make sure the #1 piston is not already at the top of the bore. You want the piston to travel a bit before contact, to remove any slop in the timing chain. I also removed the
  2. In the Stanpart catalogue the spacer is only listed for the solid axle suspension (plate W). It’s not listed at all for the IRS (plate V). Jim
  3. Andy, +1. When I bought my TR4A, it had a Pertronix distributor installed by the PO. It ran fine for several years, but this Spring, the mechanical advance failed (tore itself to pieces actually). So I purchased a refurbished stock dizzy/points from British Vacuum Unit. After dialing in a little extra advance, the car has never run better! Jim
  4. Keith, hmmm that might be something for me to do over the winter. I tend to take a “belt and braces” attitude with these cars anyway. Jim
  5. Keith, I have the rectangular ones. With the shims, it did raise the water pump outlet approx 1/2 inch higher than radiator inlet. There was enough flex in the upper hose (I installed a new one) to fit ok. I was concerned a little about trapping air, but after a year, there have been no cooling issues (touch wood). Jim
  6. Even with a narrow belt it’s a squeeze, at least on my car. So I also replaced the motor mounts, and shimmed them with 2 heavy washers per side. Now there’s just enough clearance to get the belt through without a struggle. You know they only break at night and in the rain! Jim
  7. I believe there’s an article about it in this months TR Action. Jim
  8. I just fixed a similar issue on my car. Left turns cancelled but right turns didn’t. I checked and the directional signal canceling cam was offset when the wheel was straight. So I guess it never had enough travel to cancel on right turns while driving. Here’s what I did to fix it: - set the front wheels straight ahead. - remove the directional signal escutcheon so the directional signal cam and directional signal trigger lobes are visible. - loosen the upper steering column clamp (#5-10) so the upper outer column can rotate freely over the upper inner column. - rotate the steering
  9. Folks, I just wanted to update this and say that after receiving and installing the refurbished 25D dizzy from British Vacuum Unit, the car runs GREAT! So the dying Pertronix dizzy, (broken mechanical advance), was the culprit all along. Thanks to all for the help here and in my “Hesitation” thread. BTW - not sure if you are familiar with a Triumph restoration shop here in the States called Macy’s Garage, but they have a good write up on setting up a dizzy, which I used: https://macysgarage.com/ign-timing.htm BACK ON THE ROAD!........... cheers Jim
  10. Not to diverge from the topic, but are front stub axles susceptible to this type of failure? I know suppliers offer front stub axle “upgrade” kits, or are they to solve a different problem? thank Jim
  11. Don’t the butterflies have a bevel, that if reverse mounted, can cause an “open throttle” condition? Jim
  12. Hello Peter, unfortunately all I have is the failed Pertronix dizzy, so no original one. BTW - I contacted the Distributor Doctor and they offered a rebuilt Lucas unit, but with shipping it was very expensive. However folks on the Triumph Experience forum recommended the outfit, British Vacuum Unit, located in New Hampshire. They also offered a rebuilt Lucas dizzy, but at a more palatable price. They also warned that many of the new reproduction units have advance curves that are incorrect. Anyway, I agreed and it’s in the mail! Jim
  13. Thanks Ian. I didn’t realize he sold them outright. Jim
  14. Folks, I just discovered that the Pertronix distributor in my TR4A has failed (see my “Hesitation” topic). So now I’m looking for a replacement. I think I want to go to a stock distributor with points. Does anyone have a recommendation for a supplier, as I’ve read that some of the new distributors being offered are less than ideal. thanks Jim
  15. Folks, Here’s an update to this issue. I drained the tank and put in fresh fuel, but the hesitation issue persisted. Pondering what else could cause this, I decided to check the mechanical advance mechanism in the distributor. My car has a Pertronix distributor, that was installed by the PO. I removed the top internal plate and found that one of the weight mechanisms was broken (with lots of metal “dust” all over the insides). So I guess it’s time for a new distributor. I’ll start a new topic on that. Jim
  16. Hmm, I was surprised to see the banjo bolt on the clutch MC. On my car the pipe threads directly into the MC via a threaded union (no banjo). Thinking mine was not correct, I checked the Stanpart catalogue, and found that RHD cars had the banjo bolt, but LHD cars did not. Also the LHD pipe config isn’t even shown on the AD plate. Could that have been a last minute change for the US market? Jim
  17. Bob, you’re welcome.
  18. Rob, thanks for the diagram. However that Autowire diagram for the TR4A does have some errors. Here’s a correction to the layout of the light switch. Jim
  19. Rob, in your TR4a diagram, is the horn inline fuse on C2? Jim
  20. FYI - Not to put a stick in a hornets nest, but there is considerable debate whether a harmonic balancer is required if the fan extension piece is removed. Jim
  21. I don’t have a PCV on my TR4A (the PO fitted the block breather pipe from a TR4), but I always wondered how important the bespoke TR4A oil filler cap was to the correct functioning of the PCV system. Jim
  22. Ok, I guess I’m buying some gas (uh, petrol)! Roger - I think we’re on the same wavelength. I ditched my NGKs for........wait for it........ Champion L87s! cheers Jim
  23. Thanks for the responses! Rob - interesting thought. Though I add gasoline “conditioner” in the fall, it is the fuel from last season. Ctc - adding choke, or keeping the choke engaged, doesn’t have an effect. Roger - I checked the dash pot oil after I did the plugs/cap Chris - I’ll try spraying some starter fluid around the intake manifold flanges and see if I get an rpm change. I’ll check the torque too. Cheers Jim
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