Jonny TR6

Thanks Chris - mine's just trial fitted to elicit responses such as yours. Good to see how the door seals come round the front. Will do some more trial fits ce soir.

Thanks Stuart - will do that when I do a final fit.

Just been doing some trial fittings of the hard top rubbers. Not quite sure how the inner front seal and door aperture seal join together. Does the front seal come round towards the door a tad and the door aperture seal butt up to it ? I’m thinking that would seem the most sensible, but would appreciate guidance from the wise old elves who’ve no doubt done this tons of times before. Easy to get it wrong, cut the rubbers and then regret it. Here’s a pic of the rubbers in question trial fitted.

V8 Vantage has the same type of heat shield. They’re very effective. If only the DB9 and Vantage rear subframes didn’t rot. They were coated with black paint from the factory in a single layer and if not caught early enough, removed and properly painted, you’re in to many many thousands to replace.

I thought my 4 incher was big. Rob - don’t forget that hot air is less dense than cold air, so you’re fighting against yourself having a bigger plenum if you don’t reduce under bonnet temperatures.

Hi Rob - mine is larger than standard and done by the previous owner. It’s a lot of work to create your own, as you have to weld on the stubs that branch off to the throttle bodies and if you get your angles wrong it won’t go together. If it were me, I’d go with the standard Triumph original setup and look at reducing the heat soak from the exhaust manifold. If you’re using a tubular manifold you can do that by wrapping or ceramic coating, although I think your problems would largely go away in any event, by going standard.

Nb - forgot to mention, I got sufficient hose to do 2 catch cans, with crank case inlet, outlet to vent under car and rocker cover to catch can, for £20 from my local hydraulic hose supplier. Had it been the usual chap and not the grumpy job’s worth, it’d probably have been a tenner. Toby provides all the hose sizes and lengths needed with the instructions.

Hi Phill - probably best to request a pm and delete your email address. Just in case any trolls get hold of it. (Click on the edit button) Cheers Jonny

I’ve been having lots of thoughts about getting the idle right and have twin bleed screws and balanced my throttle bodies using my snailo’meter, so have a very satisfactory 750/800 rpm at idle when hot. The issue I have is that my tubular manifold is unwrapped and I have the underslung Fred Millturn throttle linkage. While the linkages make setting throttle bodies really easy, I’m conscious that the linkage rods will expand when the engine’s hot and when I’m setting the idle, so conversely, when it’s cold and I’m trying to start the car, the rods will have contracted, closing the but

Passed my prototype catch can on to Conrad, who a number of you will know. He does a lot of sprints and hill climbs, so was very pleased to have it. What was interesting as I took it out of my car, was the amount of water that was in it. I’d probably only done 20 miles with it fitted and had a bit of trouble starting before the 20 mile run, as the car hadn’t been started for a few weeks, but there was a good tablespoon of water in there. I was surprised at how clean the water was. There was no oil that I could see, which demonstrated the efficacy of the big bore pipe coming up from the cr

Hi Rob - see the catch can thread, shortly to be updated. My additional bleed screw is in place and working very well for setting idle, as you’re feeding air to both ends of the throttle body chain, rather than 1&2 hogging it all. You’ll read about cylinders 5&6 getting sooted up and a single bleed screw is one of the reasons why. I got my spigots for the plenum from Toby at Bauly Cars, although I’m not sure where you would get a plenum from. eBay for a used one, or Moss, Rimmers etc for new. The bigger the better for plenums, as you’re giving the throttle bodies a bigger volume of cle

Hi Rob It'll be the air filters on the throttle bodies. The original design was for a plenum feeding in cold air from in front of the radiator. What you have is effectively an oven, with the heating element being the manifold underneath the throttle bodies. Hot air rises and it goes into the air filters in slow traffic. Bin them and fit a plenum and your issues will be drastically reduced ! Wrapping the manifold if tubular (or ceramic coating) will also help. Cheers Jonny Nb - can't quite tell. but is your rover cover vent blocked off ? This usually feeds int

Found them at a place called Motaclan for £3.49 each. Seems pretty reasonable considering they're £12ish at Rimmers and Moss. Happy days and thanks for the part nr Peter.

Thanks Peter - I’m going to use the new bolts I’ve ordered to give me the correct length. The heads will be chopped off, bolt screwed into the nut gently by hand until it hits something and then backed off a couple of turns. I’ll then pop the bolts through the top of the frame, whilst still attached to the hardtop, nip them up with some nuts and measure the length. What could possibly go wrong….

Smashing - many thanks as ever.