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Lo100469

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About Lo100469

  • Birthday 04/10/1969

Profile Information

  • Location
    Brussels (BE) and Cahors area (South West France)
  • Cars Owned:
    TR4 IRS

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  1. Marco, Yes this is good news! and your anti theft device kept everyone away from the fuel tank Marco, Stuart, I'm using a cheap plastic inline filter, i have a spare from my dealer with me just in case, i think they are like 4euro a piece. I will keep an eye on it then and see if i ditch it this winter. I'm still not sure why everyone seems to fit one while there is a filter in the bowl and each Weber has its own mech filter too. It seems like many had issues with those filters and the steel shiny ones seem to be even worse. Not sure if anyone produces a quality one. Bob, i have
  2. Hi all, thanks to your good advice on tires, hubs, vibration, voltage regulator, i could prepare the car for the trip and we made it to Toulouse, 700 miles in 2 days in the heat without any issue. Just added about 1/2 liter of oil to keep the level at 2/3, pressure around 50 at 2500rpm, goes up to 70 at 3000. i had my chief critic officer with me , and it was our first long trip with the car that is a pleasure to drive. It is really hot over here, it has not rained in weeks as you can see from the picture. Just need a quick advice. the car starts first try even after
  3. Hi, my 2 cents on a topic that could run forever... I run my 4A on 165 Michelin XAS and find them very good in the dry, i still have to try them on the wet. They are not "shockingly devoiding of grip" to me. Yesterday i tried a higher pressure as we have a long trip planned. at 2 bar (29 psi) rear, i already feel it is too harsh for the chassis and suspension and the ride quality suffers. I cannot even imagine driving 65 stiff modern profiles. The chassis designed in the 60's calls for high profile tires at low pressure. That way you have a smooth, predictable behaviour whi
  4. vibration on mine was a combination of every single possible source - replaced and balanced tires, better but not quite good enough - replaced prop shaft and moved to CV joins including new rear hubs, another improvement but still not perfect - replaced front bearings made a small improvement - replaced wheels - finally all perfect with no vibration at any speed! good lucking tracking the source, may be coming from multiple places. cheers, Laurent
  5. Hi Phil, As much as I agree with Marco and others about starting with the best car you can afford, once you have made the call, I would start with everything safety/reliability related. Went there last year on my 4 that was supposedly very good and went through MOT in 2 European countries without any other comment than "oil leak below engine". One bolt was missing from the front suspension, brake and clutch fluids were long gone, fuel lines too, tires were 12 years old, too much play in transmission from UJ's. So i would not start with the engine but would make sure the car is
  6. There were cases of inline fuel filter failing and blocking fuel, you may also replace the filter, they are cheap. Also, my car did sit for almost a year without running and i had a couple of strong hiccups after climbing the ramp exiting the garage. I probably disturbed dirt in fuel either in the carb bowls or at the pump or in the tank. This disappeared as i drive the car every week now, but we had to clean the bowl near the pump. So that ca be fuel related as it does not take much to block the flow, but i'm also more convinced it is an electrical issue. If it was my car i would make su
  7. Hello, Are you saying you don't find the switch on the old one? I may be wrong but i believe the switch on the early ones was accessible from under the unit, and has moved to the side on version 2 (that is the one i have, you just need an alen key to access it).
  8. Dave Same here, I let the car idle for a few minutes before i take off as i have a very steep garage encline. Water temp is already 1/3 after 3 minutes and does not move unless I hit traffic and then it goes to 1/2 (dynamo/large belt/mechanical fan). and as you I tend to worry about nearly everything and reading the forum makes it worse as we talk about issues rather than trouble free miles... cheers Laurent
  9. As i was facing some vibrations at around 65mph (despite new tires and balanced wheels) i started investigating how to change wheel bearing front and rear. After reading this post i decided to change the rear hubs and shafts for upgraded CV ones. I believe there are the CDD ones supplied by Rimmer. Also my mechanic changed the front wheel bearings. He did not report any issue about installation, and he did install already those CV shafts and hubs to 5 cars prior to mine, all 5 customers still happy. Aside from any safety issue (my primary reason), i have to say this like driving anothe
  10. Pete, Great to see you driving her around! Finally! I do understand you have not reached full confidence level. I'm there myself still nervous about any noise i hear, looking at engine temp and oil pressure... I guess this will go away with more trouble free miles I see you don't have the cupboard piece in front of the radiator, i have been told this is key to the cooling system as a way to push more air through the radiator. Cheers, Laurent
  11. I think I have a cheaper version of it... i will go for 30% discount....
  12. Hi, It is hard to answer you because you raise multiple questions that need further investigation. On oil, the first number is cold grade, second is hot. So 20/50 it will be thicker when hot but thinner at cold start, also check the forum for ZDDP so you use the right oil for those old engines. I personally would not run with SAE30 but oil discussion is a rabbit hole... Regarding the rest of your issues, you need to go through them in a logical sequence. Check ignition/distribution, spark plugs (replace them for a test, once wet some do not recover) fueling and carb balance, l
  13. Good to read that your mojo is better today. I'm sure that your motivation will spike as soon as she is running. I get the frustration of fixing what should have been fixed being there too but to a lesser extend. What a great job you do and your documentation is gold to me as i'm new to the car and a lot less skilled, Many thanks Pete, Laurent
  14. Hi all, i'm building a stock of spares that will be useful one day, either during this summer trip or just later for preventive maintenance. So i have a refurbished starter, an AC fuel pump, a belt, .... I still have the old fashioned dynamo on the car and would like to find a good quality spare one. I'm aware of the dynamo's limitations but 22 amp should be enough as i will use the car during the day for 99% of the time and i have led lights coming from Classic Cars Led following the forum's advice. Where can I find a plug and play solution (new or refurbished), and avoid new cheap
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