Lo100469

You can test the gauge by grounding the cable that goes into the sender unit, the gauge should moves to hot. But great that it was only a bad connexion.

You have a serious issue with some connections. The red light is supposed to compare the 12v coming from the battery though the ignition switch to the 12v coming from the generator. Once you have 12v on both sides the light goes off. This should not interfere with the headlights. Those will work even with the key out. There is no relay so you have the full 12v everywhere. If both are mixed up i would check everything before you fry your new loom. the dash lights are going via a resistor and are grounded behind the dashboard, you may have a bad earth or resistor (try to turn it on an

Yes it is the way, find someone with small hands, there is only one nut to undo and you can pull it.... Disconnect the battery first. Cheers

I also have a house in France and can only confirm what was said above, ZFE are nothing to worry about. Proof of insurance and V5 is all you need.

I believe Roy means the senders, the specs are all over the place and when you buy one there is no way to know what resistance they are cold and hot....

It looks correct to me, the gauges are not in the right place and i don’t recognize the oil pressure one. But that should not change anything. If you want to put them back where they belong, water temp is bottom left, oil pressure to left, fuel top right and amp bottom right.

Richard, i see yours has a red collar. The one i tried went straight to hot after 2 minutes. Of course Marci is right about the IR thermometer being unreliable on shiny surfaces but if your fan goes on and off as it should, nothing is boiling, and the hose is around 70C it is unlikely that your coolant is too hot. Either you keep trying senders until you find the one with the correct resistance pattern, or you need to calibrate the gauge as indicated by Rob. Cheers, Laurent

maybe this video will help?

thanks for the information on the sender, i was trying to avoid calibrating the gauge, will try a GTR104 first...

Stuart, would you know a reliable source for a higher resistance sender? mine failed and the 2 i tried read too high. Laurent

I finally managed to stop the leak, i learned quite a few things in the process. - don't try to bend the the float tab without removing it from the cover, you will damage the tip of the needle valve, don't ask me how i know.... - always remove the fulcrum pin from the side of the cover that has the split, i saw a couple of videos where the pin is pushed the wrong way - after a lot of search, it seems that the DCOE now use a front cover (the front cover between the 2 barrels) with a hole in the middle. I seems that some pressure could build behind that cover when the engine is r

I installed one of those, i know it does not look stock but long distance is way more confortable without the wind blast from the back. They mount on the seat belts bolts and go off in 2 secs.

Quick update: I measured float height to get to 25mm (from main jet deck to fuel level) cold (priming the fuel pump manually). I had to add 1mm to the front carb that was leaking, this is close to 12mm at the tip. Don’t try to ply the float lever without removing it, you will damage the valve (ask me how i know). After a drive yesterday the front carb is still dripping after i shut down the engine. So i measured the fuel level just after switching off the engine and the fuel level is too high when hot, like 22mm to fuel level, 25 mm is standard, some go to 27mm (remove the main je

thanks Tom, i will aim for something like 27mm and report back the necessary plastic float height. kind regards, Laurent

Hi Peter, Thanks, very interesting reading, i can see the 8.5mm for a brass floater. This is the number i wanted to check for the plastic one, i could find 14mm in some places. If you lower that number, you make the fuel level higher by the same amount. When you say a TR engine requires the float set lower you mean the fuel level? kind regards, Laurent