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The A-type OD draws 20A or so. A standard 30A relay will be fine. You don't really need one with a commutation diode but it wouldn't hurt as it helps to prevent contact burning on the switches. (The diode reduces the back-emf voltage spike as the relay turns off ). It does add a complication though. A relay with a diode has to be wired in the right way round as the wiring convention for these relays is intended for negative earth systems. The cathode of the diode is always wired to pin 86 meaning this has to be the positive supply end and pin 85 the negative earthy end. On a posit

How many amps , 39 or 40 , should the new relay have to work and does it need a diode for protection ? The prewired sockets look like a good answer. Thanks for the advice Richard & B

Bonnet lined up better than expected. Any tips on fine tuning it? I don’t think I can line it up when it’s open.

Is the small tag for the coil feed of 12 volts when the engine starter is engaged? Have you identified the terminal for the Starter switch wiring to energise the solenoid coil? Car being after 1973 would have the pink ballast resistance wire as part of the loom.

I wonder what the locking nut is. As you doubtless know already, you need some special nuts for these wheels. David

Looks great Steven. Great colour!

Hello I usually follow the TR4/4a forum, but I can't immediately see what I need in the TR6 forum so apologise in advance if this is old ground. I have a few questions, but we both have owned and fixed TRs for a good few years. My friend needs to swap out the starter on his '6. The only upside is that it is LHD so column not in the way. Any hints - remove exhaust, get it out from underneath? He has a spare starter of unknown vintage, but we tried it with jump leads to the body and power terminals, then flashed onto the solenoid - it engaged and spun over well. We think it's ok,

Hello. Thank you both for the replies. The rails are all in good order. There is a tiny amount of surface rust below the window. The rivets are for brackets that must have been added to the inside in past to clamp the back down more securely. I have the fittings for the front edge. Danny

Salut, jeune homme. Car looks good. How did you get on ?

Or, (since the old relay does "click") then it just needs to be opened up (peel back the lip of aluminium) & clean up the contacts. be good for another 60 years Bob

As per title known good gearbox just removed from a TR250 for overdrive swap £250 buyer collects or arranges transport. Stuart.

Used to be that when we had a car come to us for repair the insurance company would send a agent/engineer to check the damage. Then with the advent of mobile phone camera's , we where asked to take a few pics and send them in. Had a 7 year old seat that was hit in the o/s/r , bent the tail gate a bit and smashed the light unit. Insurance said it was a uneconomical repair , paid the customer out , we bent the tailgate straight and fitted a new light didn't even need any paint. Guy was well pleased. Used the car for a couple of years the gave it to his son to learn in..

How about replacing the existing screw eyelet terminal loom for one with Lucar terminals already fitted? Then use a Durite Lucar terminal relay. Loom. Is pt no 131338. https://motaclan.com/product/loom-overdrive-switch-relaytr_131338_1688_0/ Alternative ADD a modern plug in relay with pre wired socket. Run the new wires of the pre wired socket to your existing relay eyelet terminals and use the old relay and its existing wiring as a junction box? Prewired socket and 30 amp modern relay with fuse. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164795155511?itmmeta=01HWFZYX6MDJ6V76P0SS

Is there not a way where you could drill the back plate from under the car then use a long centre punch to re- peen the back of the wheel stud. ? Turning the wheel to line the correct stud with your new hole that could be sealed later with a grommet.

Guys - I haven’t got any diffs left , certainly not any 3.45 ones - I may at a push be able to spare a 3.7 4A diff which was rebuilt by the Coxes with a new CWP - I’m not posting it so it will have to be collected from Colchester or can take to Malvern. Im sure Tom Cox will be able to sort you out if Mike cant cheers Rich Crewe-Read

Is there any supplier who sells an overdrive modern relay with the Eyelet connections. I could buy a Durite which would work well but needs new connections and I would have to start soldering . It is in a very cramped space near the heater and gearbox. Rob H found me a useful supply and I was about to buy it . I am now looking for a different relay. I need the eyelet fittings to avoid the electrical work. Thanks Richard & B

You may find the attached drawing helps with your fault finding. Colours shown are for the 80/81 TR7 model. The most likely cause is the limit switch in the motor is wrongly adjusted (disconnect either the brown/light green or the green connections to the motor) to check if the wipers stop immediately the column switch is moved to the "off" position as this will remove the feed from the brown/light green line. If this doesn't work probably the column switch has failed in the "on" position - measure the voltage between the red/light green connection to the motor ( a small 12v bulb wir

Thanks chaps, I'm going to order a black stalk one from Duncan LLoyd and hope the black is removeable. Thanks Tony, I got that from you when I was building the car and still use it as my main reference Regards David

+1 most of these guys are fitters! not mechanics. Better safe than sorry.

Thanks everyone for your input. I have never spent such a focussed Friday night in the garage as last night! All drilled including for the boot lid badges and tonneau studs. Not a fun job after finish paint but it’s done. All went well with the tape method. Holes painted with top coat. That’s a good idea Stuart putting waxoyl on the rivets. Badges were loose for the photos. And I’ll now have a look at wing liners Roger. Cheers.

Lesson learned long ago. Anti theft nut or bolts on the car it ALWAYS pays to remove the nut or bolt BEFORE the tyre company gorillas attack it with impact guns turned up to humungus torque. Stop outside the premises and remove carefully and then refit when the car comes out with new tyres or whatever on it. So much anguish saved. Mick Richards

Hi David, Having been through a similar situation, where after having some welding done, the loom was fried, I bought an autosparks loom with Alternator conversion. I did consider making my own loom, but purchasing all the different coloured wires of the correct current rating meant the cost escalated enormously. I have attached a colour pdf of the wiring in my car at that time. (various mods and changes since). This file is quite large so if you have a problem with it, I can send it direct.

My last light switch was Chrome under black heat shrink. I bought an OD switch recently that was also Chrome under black heat shrink. Roger

Ooops! Tim

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