Jump to content


TR Register Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About adriantr4

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Location
    Aberdeenshire, rural ....

Recent Profile Visitors

471 profile views
  1. Hi I'm please to report, that despite a bit of the usual struggle, I got .005 and .004-and-a-bit on the axle end floats. The shim-steel DIY approach worked, but as RobH says, a hole punch is needed. I didnt have a hole punch, so was mucking about with Stanley knives and scissors, but generally failed to cut really clean holes. So, in short, the easiest solution is to accept a delay, measure the existing shims then purchase what new shims are needed. I found it all do-able, but was thrown at first by each side of the hub affecting the other. However I got much faster and confident. Th
  2. Hello, and again my gratitude to all contributors. I've ordered some shim steel - it never would have occurred to me. A very good suggestion. Hence I plan to carefully make what I need. As a backup to that, as I obviously have to pull the hubs again, I'll measure what I have to set the scene for any possible buying of the real shims. I located my micrometer and gave it a good clean and it came up very well. I didnt really understand how to use it, but I read my Automobile Engineering textbook dating from the early'60s, with the emphasis on Engineering, and this had a very clear sect
  3. Hello again I though I’d give an update as to where I am with replacing the axle tube seals. I’ve got it all back together after buying an Imperial dial gauge. But I’m a bit fed up as I had the hubs bolted on fairly firmly with 4 bolts each & I got readings of .005” per side, which is spot on. But when I put the remaining bolts in and tightened it all up moderately hard, this dropped to .002 & 003. The thinnest shim available is .006”, so simply adding this puts it over the limits (.004 to .006) I think I’ve got a micrometer somewhere, so I’ll need to have it all apart
  4. Got it & understood - thanks. Appreciated.
  5. Hi I thought I'd give an update, and again ask a question. I got the axle tube seals out, but it was a bit of a battle. I broke the head of the handled tool described earlier, and I wasn't using much force. I think the seal removing tool is for non-metal flexible seals. After a few attempts trying to bang in a small screwdriver, and failed experiments with a little puller, all I had done was mark the axle tube ends & inner parts. My next attempt, which was a bit hazardous, was to use a gas blow lamp to seriously heat the seals. I prepared for the worst by wrapping a wet towel aro
  6. Hello Again, my ignorance is shining through .... How do you get the axle tube seal out? I have the above handled puller, but I'm unsure how to wield it. I assumed the seal is abutted against a flange, so I'm attempting to make on to the metal part of the seal itself, which seems to be quite soft. All I'm doing though is mangling the visible circle of metal. Do I press on and try to destroy the seal & then hook it out? Force in a small screwdriver between the seal and axle tube to distort the seal & then shift it? (Or, I think I read somewhere of a puller to extract it
  7. Me too, precisely as described - also from Rimmers .... And I dimly recall I went round this exact loop years ago when I first got the car. I think a rear brake hose will fit. The old rear one I took off is about 1cm longer than the old front hoses. I imagine Revingtons will supply the right part & I'll collect a credit note from Rimmers. To be fair they were very helpful but didn't go for my suggestion for a note in their catalogue. Any thoughts?
  8. Thanks to all, understood. Imperial DTI & base (ebay) now arrived. regards, Adrian
  9. Aha, I get it - think as one axle. This information is very useful & I am learning a huge amount. I've ordered an imperial dial gauge. Meanwhile ..... Attached is a picture of the two axle assemblies. There is a fair gap between the bearing housing & hub, particularly on the "problem" shaft, on the right of the picture? This ok? Also can be seen, if faintly, the wear on the shaft. And I built up the other backplate - shoes & cylinder. Thanks, as ever, to all posters. Adrian
  10. Hello Thanks to BlueTR3A-5EKT, and to all posters. Here is an update on progress so far. I had read that the six bolts that hold the bearing housing to the axle flange can be very tight & had ordered a six-point quality socket. I decided to give it a go (unfortunately before reading BlueTR3A-5EKT's above post). To my surprise there were no tab washers on either side, and the RHS bolts came undone very easily. They were up pretty firm, but no more than that. In place of the tab washers were split washers. Perhaps in its past life - its a US import - diff work had been done? T
  11. Thanks for the good advice. I've ordered the seal pick, and I'll also check out the breather tube. Also mulling a dial gauge. Adrian
  12. Of no particular import - I got a "tractor place" to Waxoil or similar my '4 years ago. When I parked it in grass just after the work was done, it looked like an oil tanker had just run aground & ruptured .... Adrian
  13. Hello Thanks very much indeed. I think I've finally grasped it. And I'll put my 3-leg puller back in it box.... Its appreciated, really. I'll give it a bash (so to speak). And the speedi sleeve may well be on the cards. But I will be taking a few deep breaths before I pull the shaft! Adrian
  14. Hello I've (still) thinking about replacing the axle tube seal (see picture). My axle leaks. I've studied the Hayes manual, but I'm rather nervous about this procedure. However, I have a specific questions: I have a three-leg puller which neatly fits the hub. Will this do the trick? Assuming I can get the hub off, and then can remove the bearing housing as a single item, can I then swap the seal without touching the half-shaft? I'm doing this as a short term fix just to get the car mobile. Alternatively, how easy is it to withdraw (and more worryingly for me - r
  15. Hi & thanks for asking. Yes - out of fuel. My starting technique is to squirt a bit of "Holts Cold Start" aerosol into the carbs intake, as if it was a reluctant lawn-mower, after plug removal & spinning it to get the oil pressure up. Anyhow, after a few tries it started running on all 4 & smoothed itself out. It isnt running well, and rather lumpy - but I expect the ignition & carbs need significant adjustments. What was rather rewarding was the enthusiasm of the fuel pump - dont think its ever been this effective - the surprise that the electrical/charging system s
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.