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About adriantr4

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  1. Hello Fabrice Thanks to Neil, Wessex TR Register GL, we tried his TR5 wings. A perfect fit .... Tried my original wings that came off the car - a good fit. My solution: I'm going to get my original rear wings repaired by my bodywork guy. The top flange area on both wings has rotted away but the remainder is ok. I could get the ones discussed in the thread fixed up, but it's all a bit of a compromise with cutting and welding - and the lights area, swage line aren't quite correct. I'll post pictures once the work is completed. It isn't the route I wanted, but it further prove
  2. Many thanks to all for their input, thanks Stewart I have replied. All the info is immensely useful and I appreciate everyone's time I'm going to consider my options. Regards Adrian
  3. Hi Thanks for the responses The vertical section and contours, shape all good. The offside wing (courtesy Stewart - pm sent btw) is an excellent fit with binnacle 100%, but same issue with that lower edge being too far forward. So: how do I pull those edges back? Thanks, Adrian
  4. Hi Did some measuring, and my old wing is about 3mm longer than the "new" rear wing at the very top by the door. Not much, but the photo shows the issue when the old is placed directly above the new. All other edges are correct. I still believe it's a Stanpart, but surprised both my repaired wings are offset like this. I"ll think on, thanks to all posters, particularly Malbaby. You were right. Adrian
  5. Thanks for the info. I have put the original rear wing back on to check, and also adjusted the front wing by moving it back. The front wing to door gap is improved and just about acceptable, the rear wing to door gap also better, more linear, but still wide. I should also admit that the original gaps when I was running the car were wide. I also lifted the end of the rear wing up to see what raising the rear of the tub might do. It might be worth a try, but it has to come up and inch or more to make a noticeable difference. Photo shows original wing roughly fixed on. T
  6. Hello I am rebuilding my '4 which is in good shape with a straight frame and body. I have some repaired ok Stanpart rear wings but a test fit showed poor gaps between wing and door. A club member is rebuilding a '5. Could I trial fit my wings on his tub to check if they are ok? I seem to recall '5 B posts (?) are different shape? I've got a post going on rear wing fitting in the 4/4a forum Thanks Adrian
  7. Hello I am progressing with the on-chassis rebuild with my '4, but I need some hints and suggestions on getting the rear wings to align. Here is the story so far: Had the car for 30 years, ex-California, converted to RHD long ago. The chassis is straight, no rust, and I think the tub never removed. The tub is is also straight, essentially sound. Boot, floors, engine area, scuttle all ok. No issues. Recently I have had an excellent mobile welder (Rob, robsmobileweldingservices@gmail.com, Bournemouth area) fix up/replace the sills, part of the deck edge where it joins the rear wings,
  8. Hello I usually follow the TR4/4a forum, but I can't immediately see what I need in the TR6 forum so apologise in advance if this is old ground. I have a few questions, but we both have owned and fixed TRs for a good few years. My friend needs to swap out the starter on his '6. The only upside is that it is LHD so column not in the way. Any hints - remove exhaust, get it out from underneath? He has a spare starter of unknown vintage, but we tried it with jump leads to the body and power terminals, then flashed onto the solenoid - it engaged and spun over well. We think it's ok,
  9. Thanks for the inputs. Insulators all round it is. regards, Adrian
  10. Thanks for the prompt reply. But my (very old) Moss Catalogue gives rubber washer (part 80) as 4 in total? Adrian
  11. In rebuilding the front suspension on my '4, I have found that I have, from the top: Rubber washer Aluminium packing piece Rubber washer Coil spring Rubber washer Which initially strikes me as correct, and the Parts Catalogue seems to support this. But a very experienced TR friend is adamant that the coil fits directly into the packing piece. (Maybe to prevent spring & packing piece wobble?) What is correct/best practice? Thanks, Adrian
  12. Hello I have been looking around to see if I can lay my hands on a piece of steel tube 3" long by 5/16" internal diameter (the critical-ish dimension), so an outside diameter of about 1/2". My friend with a lathe doesn't have anything suitable and doesn't fancy making it from first principles from a bit of bar. But he did suggest if I could find something similar he could drill it out, or adapt it. So, has anyone got a piece of tube of those dimensions I could have? Happy to pay. Thanks Adrian
  13. Thanks for the advice. I'll will put the old ones back with new rubber, and to Pete: they seem ok, when on the car and the wing bounced it returned to normal height, behaving as expected. Regards Adrian
  14. I am in the process of rebuilding the front suspension on my '4, and have the Spax adjustable shocks which are about 30 years old. They "seem" ok on the bench - no graunching, strong resistance, smooth action. Clean too, no leaks. I did note that the "pulling" resistance is a bit more than the pushing. Is this normal? Anyhow due to their age I'm thinking of replacing them, and Rimmers have a sale. But... cheapest adjustable is Gaz at £145 a pair, whereas the standard shocks are £37 a pair. That's quite a price difference. I don't really need adjustable shocks, so should I put th
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