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adriantr4

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About adriantr4

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    adriantr4

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  • Location
    Salisbury
  • Cars Owned:
    TR4

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  1. Thanks for the inputs. Insulators all round it is. regards, Adrian
  2. Thanks for the prompt reply. But my (very old) Moss Catalogue gives rubber washer (part 80) as 4 in total? Adrian
  3. In rebuilding the front suspension on my '4, I have found that I have, from the top: Rubber washer Aluminium packing piece Rubber washer Coil spring Rubber washer Which initially strikes me as correct, and the Parts Catalogue seems to support this. But a very experienced TR friend is adamant that the coil fits directly into the packing piece. (Maybe to prevent spring & packing piece wobble?) What is correct/best practice? Thanks, Adrian
  4. Hello I have been looking around to see if I can lay my hands on a piece of steel tube 3" long by 5/16" internal diameter (the critical-ish dimension), so an outside diameter of about 1/2". My friend with a lathe doesn't have anything suitable and doesn't fancy making it from first principles from a bit of bar. But he did suggest if I could find something similar he could drill it out, or adapt it. So, has anyone got a piece of tube of those dimensions I could have? Happy to pay. Thanks Adrian
  5. Thanks for the advice. I'll will put the old ones back with new rubber, and to Pete: they seem ok, when on the car and the wing bounced it returned to normal height, behaving as expected. Regards Adrian
  6. I am in the process of rebuilding the front suspension on my '4, and have the Spax adjustable shocks which are about 30 years old. They "seem" ok on the bench - no graunching, strong resistance, smooth action. Clean too, no leaks. I did note that the "pulling" resistance is a bit more than the pushing. Is this normal? Anyhow due to their age I'm thinking of replacing them, and Rimmers have a sale. But... cheapest adjustable is Gaz at £145 a pair, whereas the standard shocks are £37 a pair. That's quite a price difference. I don't really need adjustable shocks, so should I put th
  7. Thanks Stuart, will do. I've had the other side apart and although very grungy, it's fine. A bonus which I didn't expect. Regards Adrian
  8. With a huge amounts of heat, and luck, I have removed the bump stop mount. It is held onto the chassis by two long bolts. The top came out ok but the lower has the remains the chassis attached. However now out. The pictures show the before and after. The chassis area seems ok, apart from the missing mount, and the bracket itself is solid. I'm a bit surprised the lower mount has totally dissolved as the rest of the car is fine - what are my options? Regards Adrian
  9. pm sent. Mine's ok, but very slightly ovaled and ancient. Others might have a better example. Regards, Adrian
  10. Attached is my homework - custom washers to fit the leaf spring pins, and the Silentblocs inner metal bush trimmed back. With hindsight perhaps we could have taken a bit more off, but in practice for my car I don't think its critical. The only minor issue in adapting the Silentbloc is that the inner bush isn't totally centered, so it does wobble in the lathe. Lastly, I spotted that the clamps on the leaf springs were trying to loosen off, so simple to compress them up tight in a vice. My thanks to Dave Smith of the Wessex group of the TR Register and his vintage lathe for his ti
  11. Hello About to reassemble my TR4 rear suspension when I found the attached photo taken from the Roger Williams "How to restore Triumph TR4 and TR4A", p134. It shows what I think is 2 "D" washers and a spacer on the front pin? (Instead of 1 "D" washer). Says it's a Revington mod. Another edit: not a spacer but the shoulder of the pin, and 1 "D" washer plus a washer of same outer diameter but will fit on pin. Comments please? Thanks, Adrian
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