adriantr4

Thanks to all posters, info understood. It was just a thought. Thanks, Adrian

Hello I am (vaguely) considering converting my TR4 to TR4a type diaphragm clutch. This would involve having the flywheel professionally re-drilled. I've seen it mentioned in passing on our threads, but is there a diagram out there? Or someone to sell me a TR4a flywheel? Just got the engine & gearbox out. The coil clutch fingers were either broken or almost stuck, amazed it worked at all. Clutch was very heavy, this was why. Thoughts? Thanks, Adrian

Good point, thanks

Thanks! I suggest that this thread is now closed.

Success! Got both manifolds off together, as suggested. It was very hung up on the corroded left hand stud (below the heater valve). I used heat (excellent MAP gas torch, my go-to for all stuck things), plus-gas, a rope and careful use of a flat bladed chisel. And much wiggling of everything, helped by my foot on the exhaust. It took a long time, but it suddenly gave in. Thanks to all posters. Whew! Regards, Adrian

Down pipe not off, but the halves are free. Any clues about that stud, or an irrelevance if both manifolds are removed together? Thanks

Thanks - yes, these hidden nuts are removed.

Hi I'm trying to remove the manifolds prior to removing the engine and some investigations. I cant get the manifolds off - the manifold bolts and the exhaust downpipe bolts are off, I've got it all to wiggle a little & can persuade it further with an old wide blade chisel. My principal question is about the vertical stud (illustrated) between the inlet and exhaust manifold. Do I need to remove this to get the inlet manifold off? its been 30 years since it was last separated. Any tips for getting it all apart? I'm a bit concerned that any force might crack it all - cast iron?

This is partially related, but twice (and I should have remembered from ages previously) my cheap aftermarket ignition leads, cap, rotor arm deteriorated causing the '4 to run very poorly - the old "poor spark under compression syndrome". I spent a long time pointlessly adjusting the ignition and the mixtures until it dawned on me that the leads were probably dud (again). The solution was quality leads, cap, rotor arm (Distributor Dr - excellent), condenser, points & new plugs. The result was instant, like throwing a switch. With hindsight I think the leads were rubbish, closely follo

Thanks for the info. The "Bilt Hamber Hydrate-80" product binds to both rust and steel (although obviously you give it a good wire bush beforehand). I put on two coats, and then decided, unwisely, to put the stone chip on that. It all has bonded ok and looks great, but I have since bought decent automotive primer . So no, I didn't wire brush after the rust converter. To remove paint I tried "OB1 MULTI-LAYER PAINT & VARNISH REMOVER 500ML" which is an aerosol. It worked well. To remove the tar-like underseal I softened it with white spirit then got scraping with a wooden spatula liberat

Hello I have been removing underseal and paint to reveal good metal. I then applied 2 coats of Hydrate-80 (a good quality rust converter) followed by 2 coats of Stone Chip. It's turned out well. But then I saw an Edd China video where he applied rust converter, etch-primer then a couple of top coats. So should I put primer on after my rust converter? Thanks, Adrian

Hello Fabrice Thanks to Neil, Wessex TR Register GL, we tried his TR5 wings. A perfect fit .... Tried my original wings that came off the car - a good fit. My solution: I'm going to get my original rear wings repaired by my bodywork guy. The top flange area on both wings has rotted away but the remainder is ok. I could get the ones discussed in the thread fixed up, but it's all a bit of a compromise with cutting and welding - and the lights area, swage line aren't quite correct. I'll post pictures once the work is completed. It isn't the route I wanted, but it further prove

Many thanks to all for their input, thanks Stewart I have replied. All the info is immensely useful and I appreciate everyone's time I'm going to consider my options. Regards Adrian

Hi Thanks for the responses The vertical section and contours, shape all good. The offside wing (courtesy Stewart - pm sent btw) is an excellent fit with binnacle 100%, but same issue with that lower edge being too far forward. So: how do I pull those edges back? Thanks, Adrian

Hi Did some measuring, and my old wing is about 3mm longer than the "new" rear wing at the very top by the door. Not much, but the photo shows the issue when the old is placed directly above the new. All other edges are correct. I still believe it's a Stanpart, but surprised both my repaired wings are offset like this. I"ll think on, thanks to all posters, particularly Malbaby. You were right. Adrian