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Keith Wigglesworth

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About Keith Wigglesworth

  • Birthday 09/21/1952

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Profile Information

  • Location
    Farnham, Surrey
  • Cars Owned:
    TR2 TS6323
    TR3A TS43066
    TR Register member since 1972 and owner of TR2 and TR3A.
    Morris Minor 1000 UOY 619, TR3A CSE 324, TR2 OAA 622
    Vauxhall Chevette PGC 937P, Ford Cortina WPK 36S
    Riley 1.5 CTT 272C, Ford Escort, Ford Sierra 
    Rover 820Si, Alfa Romeo 164 V6, Rover Vitesse
    Rover 216 GSi, Alfa Romeo 156 TS, Ford Fiesta Zetec S 
    Mercedes C220 Sport, Jaguar XF 

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  1. I had a problem with these people. I ordered some light units that were not delivered. I could not contact them in any way. Look at trustpilot as the whole sad saga is there. I made a complaint to PayPal after many weeks of grief and got a refund the next day. You will need evidence of trying to contact them. My brother tells me these people were ok in the past but now seem to have gone downhill. Avoid at all costs. Auto Electrical Spares.co.uk Is the name of the rogue outfit. If they can’t fulfil your order they will ignore you - beware.
  2. Hi Roger Glad you found the brushes. I used to work in the art materials business and a sable brush in a sensible car use size will cost you a great deal and may not last too long. My advice would be to use a good quality synthetic or natural bristle. Most decorating brushes these days are synthetic but of a poor quality and on the stiff side for your application. Contact an art shop (Cornelissen.com) or a very good decorators supplier and they will be able to help with advice. I use Omega for decorating which are made in Italy and of good quality. Escoda is another good brand. The Har
  3. Just a small addition to my post. I do not have any pics of the cutting of the A post unfortunately. And on reflection my rod for door gaps is 5mm not 6. I was getting confused with metric and imperial conversion. The normally quoted imperial measurement is 3/16in. also you need to get the front wings before you get going with the doors. The repro A posts can be a poor fit. When I did mine I just used the bottom third and welded on. Good luck Keith
  4. I am Peter W’s brother and I have been working with a very dodgy TR 2 body. Yours looks quite good in some areas. I was told by someone with TR rebuild experience to get the door gaps sorted before you do anything else and then work out from there. Your door alignment looks like mine did when I started. This was the result of my 1980s over enthusiastic fitting of an a post using gas welding and not paying attention to the skuttle drooping and throwing the A post out of alignment. I would suggest you cut the A post at the top where it has been poorly welded and adjust to the line where th
  5. When I started the rebuild on my car I bought a commercial sized co2 and foam extinguisher from a friendly local firm. Their advice was to check the gauges and condition myself and showed me how to and not go to the expense of a yearly contract if I didn’t want one. I am due to get them in for a proper service now they are a few years old. I also have an old fashioned fire bucket on the wall filled with water. I have been looking for something to add to the water to help its fire ability and I am told surfactant is the thing but can’t find anything that seems right for the job. I also have a
  6. I have a body panel which I think is Triumph but I can’t identify it. The numbers can’t be read. Can anyone help? See pictures. Many Thanks Keith
  7. Thanks for the replies and excellent pictures. I now have a good idea of how to approach this job. Just started on a decorating project I am afraid and my labours are therefore diverted for a while. I will get back to you with pictures when I am able to work on the tr again.
  8. I wonder if you can help me? I am partway through the bodywork on the rebuild of my TR2. It isa very big job and throughout I have had the expert help of my brother and several well informed TR owners. A small issue has stumped us. I have a repro rear apron with tubes brazed in for the rear overriders. I plan to unbraze these to give me some wiggle room when fitting. The question is. Should they pass through the closing panel and butt onto the chassis or stand away from it in some way. In the cars I have looked at there does not seem to be a good example to work from. I have posted a pic o
  9. Another item to try would be artists' solvent. This is available from most art shops. Roberson Safesolve, Zest It and Winsor and Newton Sansodor. They are aliphatic Hydrocarbons and tend to be more aggressive than the flammable thinners they replace. They have a reputation for getting graffiti off surfaces and they need careful handling to avoid damage to the surface. I use this stuff in my parts cleaner and it is effective and non flammable. Good Luck Keith
  10. I have used SBF in my two TRs for over 20 years. I have no bubbling paint under the reservoir area and I have had no problems with sticky pistons after long layups. One of the cars was used for hillclimbing and sprinting with no problems. If I was racing I would consider changing to a racing spec fluid. I think SBF is a great fluid for the classic car enthusiast for use in cars where this product is non injurious to paint and where it will be in the system for a long time without attention. Of course the car manufacturers want a product that needs to be changed every 2 years - it is one of th
  11. I have spent a long time trying to start my TR2 and assuming something was wrong with the electric or carbs or pump. I have found that if I leave the car for more than a couple of months it will not start and if it does is misfires, runs on 3 cylinders and backfires through the carbs. The problem is modern fuel which has a shelf life of a few weeks. My recommendation is to purge all the old fuel and put in fresh fuel in tank and run through to carbs. Start with a squirt of easy start and use 2 batteries. Once you get it running keep it at 2000 revs until fully warm. Take to petrol station an
  12. I must admit to having had the Curborough trophy, ugly as it was, on my mantelpiece for a number of years. My position was "if someone wants it, they can race me for it". I think it was Martin Birch who complained at my anti-Midlands attitude and I think it was he I returned the trophy to some time ago. Anyway it went to the Stafford & Warwick group. You will see the winning car, in perpetuity it would seem, red TR2 in my pic. Most panels still in red Bondaprimer but goes very well still. I will be rebuilding soon. Keith Wigglesworth
  13. I had a click once from the front wheel which was very confusing. It only sounded when I went round corners. It turned out to be the rigid brake pipe link on the caliper being too long and touching on the inner part of the wheel when the wheel was deflected when cornering. I just pressed the pipe out of the way and all was well. Keith
  14. This may be the Vanguard Sportsman piston. They were sold in the 70's and I know of at least one person who fitted them to a TR. 2088cc and thought to be less robust than standard but with a useful cheap capacity increase. I think that maybe Buckles sold them for a while. Keith
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