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Keith Wigglesworth

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About Keith Wigglesworth

  • Birthday 09/21/1952

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  • Location
    Farnham, Surrey
  • Cars Owned:
    TR2 TS6323
    TR3A TS43066

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402 profile views
  1. Thanks for the replies and excellent pictures. I now have a good idea of how to approach this job. Just started on a decorating project I am afraid and my labours are therefore diverted for a while. I will get back to you with pictures when I am able to work on the tr again.
  2. I wonder if you can help me? I am partway through the bodywork on the rebuild of my TR2. It isa very big job and throughout I have had the expert help of my brother and several well informed TR owners. A small issue has stumped us. I have a repro rear apron with tubes brazed in for the rear overriders. I plan to unbraze these to give me some wiggle room when fitting. The question is. Should they pass through the closing panel and butt onto the chassis or stand away from it in some way. In the cars I have looked at there does not seem to be a good example to work from. I have posted a pic of the not quite positioned panel to illustrate. Many Thanks
  3. Another item to try would be artists' solvent. This is available from most art shops. Roberson Safesolve, Zest It and Winsor and Newton Sansodor. They are aliphatic Hydrocarbons and tend to be more aggressive than the flammable thinners they replace. They have a reputation for getting graffiti off surfaces and they need careful handling to avoid damage to the surface. I use this stuff in my parts cleaner and it is effective and non flammable. Good Luck Keith
  4. I have used SBF in my two TRs for over 20 years. I have no bubbling paint under the reservoir area and I have had no problems with sticky pistons after long layups. One of the cars was used for hillclimbing and sprinting with no problems. If I was racing I would consider changing to a racing spec fluid. I think SBF is a great fluid for the classic car enthusiast for use in cars where this product is non injurious to paint and where it will be in the system for a long time without attention. Of course the car manufacturers want a product that needs to be changed every 2 years - it is one of the few things that demands a service these days where mostly cars are just 'inspected'. Keith
  5. I have spent a long time trying to start my TR2 and assuming something was wrong with the electric or carbs or pump. I have found that if I leave the car for more than a couple of months it will not start and if it does is misfires, runs on 3 cylinders and backfires through the carbs. The problem is modern fuel which has a shelf life of a few weeks. My recommendation is to purge all the old fuel and put in fresh fuel in tank and run through to carbs. Start with a squirt of easy start and use 2 batteries. Once you get it running keep it at 2000 revs until fully warm. Take to petrol station and fill up with fresh fuel. Don't put the car away for long periods (more than a month or two) with more that a couple of gallons of fuel. I also suspect that valve seat additive makes the situation worse but I am not sure about this. Hope this helps Keith
  6. I must admit to having had the Curborough trophy, ugly as it was, on my mantelpiece for a number of years. My position was "if someone wants it, they can race me for it". I think it was Martin Birch who complained at my anti-Midlands attitude and I think it was he I returned the trophy to some time ago. Anyway it went to the Stafford & Warwick group. You will see the winning car, in perpetuity it would seem, red TR2 in my pic. Most panels still in red Bondaprimer but goes very well still. I will be rebuilding soon. Keith Wigglesworth
  7. I had a click once from the front wheel which was very confusing. It only sounded when I went round corners. It turned out to be the rigid brake pipe link on the caliper being too long and touching on the inner part of the wheel when the wheel was deflected when cornering. I just pressed the pipe out of the way and all was well. Keith
  8. This may be the Vanguard Sportsman piston. They were sold in the 70's and I know of at least one person who fitted them to a TR. 2088cc and thought to be less robust than standard but with a useful cheap capacity increase. I think that maybe Buckles sold them for a while. Keith
  9. I have presented my TR2 for many years with aeros and had no bother. They do insist on checking that there are working washers but I have them so no problem. If they want to get wet then so be it! The rules on washers I believe are that they are retrspective (1970s on) on all cars but are not necessary on a car with FOLDING windscreen. In my experience MOT men, even good ones have no real knowledge of this type of detail and it is not worth arguing about it. I have no idea how you stand with a cut down screen. Incidentally multipe (musical style) horns are not permitted. They are allowed however if fitted to the car prior to the rule introduction in early 70s and so not retrospective. However not woth a big arguement with the MOT man - I just switch them to single tone.
  10. Hi Richard I will be at Malvern on Sunday. Sounds like you have a bit of play elsewhere but the wheel bearings. Great care is needed with taper rollers to make sure you have 1 1/2 to 2 flats of the nut backed off to give the right clearance. Too tight and the bearing may fail. Get someone at Malvern who know about TR front ends to give it a wobble and advise. Regards Keith
  11. I suggest that you have the wheel bearing clearance checked out before your long trip. If the MOT man has tightened it up believing it to be a standard bearing then you may get problems. My MOT man notes loose wheel beartings every year. They do not understand that some play is neded in taper rollers.
  12. Red is a great colour. Just because once a year when a lot of TRs get together there are a lot of red and green ones does not make it bad. There are a lot of good colour decisions being made by a lot of owners!
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