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Ben Davies

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  1. Ben Davies

    Emma's 6

    Neil, jokes aside it looks like an absolute cracker, lovely work! Ben
  2. Hi Andrew, I changed mine a few years ago and found that with a little care it was easily done without removing the outer column from the car. I think this is detailed somewhere in the technicalities CD. It is possible if you have the column-fitted steering lock because the inner column, once disconnected from the flexible coupling and sliding joint, can be used like a slide hammer to remove the upper bush (having cut off the ears if you wish to make it easier). The inner column then comes out into the car and you can drift, or as I did, use a length of threaded rod (inserted straight
  3. Looking good Neil. Quick brush over with the gloss and you're done! That car was a hell of a find.
  4. Hi Peter, Looking great - that's really going to be the place to sit this summer! This is now of little help but I found a relatively easy way to fit the diaphragms which may help others. I fitted it along one side first (easy!) and then used one of those nail/tack removing tools (like a large flat bladed screwdriver with a ‘v’ cut in the end…) to push each of the c-clips into the holes in the frame on the opposite side. You can get a good bit of purchase this way - much easier than trying to hold onto them with pliers etc… That’s still the only time I’ve ever used that tool...
  5. I've actually got one of those Clarkey - better than nothing!! Cheers, Ben
  6. Rob, That one has been on the Quiller Triumph website for a while I think. Never had any experience with the company but it might help pin down someone nearby. Cheers, Ben
  7. Dear All, Having rebushed the front suspension (superpro poly) and fitted alloy rack mounts earlier in the summer I'm pleased to say it has sharpened up the handling of my 6 very well. Replacing the uprights and trunnions also lightened the steering consderably as the old ones were (frighteningly) badly worn and binding on the threads - well worth checking if yours have been neglected and the steering is getting heavy. I'm surprised how light it is with all components functioning correctly! Anyway, the addition of the solid rack mounts has sharpened the steering too much for my liking so
  8. Agree absolutely Ivor. John - the Moss part number for the UNC/UNF studs (which is probably the easiest way of doing this) was TE505121 when I ordered them - (the first few people I spoke to on the phone didn't know about them so it might take a while). The kit on ebay looks a bargain Ivor (until everyone just found out about it....!). Cheers, Ben
  9. John, As others have said Moss stock a stud that is 5/16 UNC one end and 5/16 UNF the other. You can helicoil the trailing arm with UNC helicoils and loctite the studs in there leaving the standard UNF thread on the outer end for the nut. If the thread has stripped you probably wont even need to redrill the arm - the threadless hole will be about the right size for the helicoil tap. I have the tool and probably some spare helicoils (in Pontypool) but I'm away for a couple of weeks with work. I suspect that you're wanting to get it done faster but if it's a longer term thing let me know. B
  10. Ben Davies


    Rog, Great news - sounds fantastic. Have just returned from a similar tour to the Italian lakes and back over several of the major Alpine passes - we didn't make it over as far as the Stelvio - that's one for next time... We also noticed a fair difference in performance at the top of the passes but never felt as though we wouldn't make it. The car had a good service beforehand and a small bag of odds and ends remained in the spare wheel well with the tool roll for the entire trip. Only opened the bonnet to connect the airbed pump a few times and to pour in the spare litre of 20/50 fo
  11. Hi Jerry, From what I remember... (I'm sure others will confirm) once the input shaft is removed (and making sure the layshaft was dropped well clear of any gears) you can use a hammer and block of wood to drift the mainshaft (forward) out of the rear bearing. I think there's a circlip on the mainshaft to the rear of the bearing to remove first. The bearing can then 'simply' be levered out of the gearbox casing with a couple of large flat blade screwdrivers or more likely drifted out from inside the box using a long screwdriver or punch - but careful you don't chip any gears or damage th
  12. Ivor and Rob, Thanks for the both of your responses. Just returned from Express with a new ticket for 12 months! Agree with your views on Ali, professional guy, very thorough test but seems to know and appreciate the cars which is great. Rob - Berrylands is very close to me also but I booked as soon as I saw Ivor's post - I'll bear that in mind for any other issues. Cheers guys, Ben
  13. Great - just the job. Thanks Ivor. Ben
  14. Ivor - thanks for your above thoughts - they proved very useful. Looks like the Securon 264 is the way to go - sucessfully fittted one to my 6 this weekend. It's a '72 CP car and it had the correct (lower wheel arch) fixing points hidden away under a good bit of sound proofing. Retracts fully with no problem and as you point out it can be aligned perfectly. Quite an improvement over the static belts. I always liked the secure feel of the statics but they became a pain when quickly swapping over drivers etc... I suppose I could avoid this by not letting anyone else drive it... but then
  15. Dear all, Does anyone know of a decent MOT tester, preferably in the Surbiton / Kingston area - but happy to travel further for a decent garage which is familiar with classics. Cheers, Ben
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