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Michael Mckiernan

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About Michael Mckiernan

  • Birthday October 27

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  • Website URL
    mickmechanic2@gmail.com

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  • Location
    Nr Thruxton

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  1. I have a Fram 3600 on mine . It's the Tough Guard series which i have found to be very good. Long housing also with a non return valve. Mick
  2. Hi John, moving the MU drive , cant seem to get closer than about 50 degrees. All up and running , slightly lumpy but i did not check the injectors for air, will do that tomorrow. Might have another go at getting the timing closer , might be i kept missing a gog. NCT should be a standard CR cam , only done 76,000 and the last 2 owners never touched the engine but you never know. i will check when i have more time. If i cant get it closer i will have a try at timing it as a CP as you advise . easy enough to do. Thanks again Mick.
  3. Cheers for the clarification on the Brown book. Have got it to 69mm ( book specs 67 mm Max ) but the next tooth back moves it to the other end of the scale. Should be close enough or is it ? Probably did'nt explain what i meant John , when i removed the MU i had number 6 valves rocking as per book after fitting the recon MU had a look in no 6 outlet and the rotor hole was not visable, turned crank slowly in the direction of rotation and the hole appeared at "roughly" 180 degrees . Removed pedestal, turned gear until i got it as close as 69 mm . Does that make any sense Thanks again for the insight Mick.
  4. Morning all , i know this has probably been asked and answered before ( and i have looked ) but is the MU Timing for a CR engine wrong in the brown bible. The reason for asking is i have just recieved my overhauled MU from Neil Ferguson and as i was there thought i would just check the timing. It appears to be 180 out if the manual is right . Car seemed to run ok before if a bit rich. Any help would be great. Thanks Mick
  5. Hi Adrian , have you tried disconnecting it from the metering unit then see if it's still there. If it is disconnect it from the fast idle and check again. Also dont secure the cable to anything that could cause resonance ( injection pipes ) Mick.
  6. Quick up-date, new discs & pads fitted, brake fluid changed again. 65/70 mph for 15 miles then through town in traffic for 20mins. Then back up the motor way 70+ for 15 miles, All good when i got home, front brakes just warm ( what you would expect ) Hope this has cured the problem, next stop Stratford On Avon. Mick. . .
  7. 42 Miles and brakes are almost cold , looks like it was the clearance on the servo push-rod. And as John L posted the Master cyl does get hot on a longish fast run. Fit the new stuff tomorrow and try it again. Thanks again. Mick.
  8. Thanks for all the information, looks like there might be a on-going problem. I will take a chance tomorrow when the weather clears and drive the same route now i have a gap on the servo push rod. Borrowed a digital temp gauge to see what is happening ( Hopefully nothing ) If it still overheats i will contact Rimmers return the unit and get a refurbish kit and overhaul my old unit. Lovely to see so many TR's at the classic we had a look round but as the tent was very crowded we did not say hello ( it was pouring down ) With a bit of luck i will try to get up to the Inter- club weekend. Mick.
  9. Thanks for that Pinky, checked the gap from the servo push rod to the Master cyl with play-doh and its now 3/16 so now hopefully will be more than enough. Also made hardly any difference to the pedal travel. Thank you all for your input, feel a lot better about fitting new stuff. Off to Silverstone in a hour or so for the classic. As we are there all weekend we are taking the Motor-home. ( 1994 talbot express ) glutton and punishment spring to mind. So i will be seeing some of you there. Mick. .
  10. Hi Roy, there was indeed a lot of trouble 3ish years back with faulty TRW Master Cyl. But as there is no later posts with this problem i was hoping it had been resolved. Maybe Roger can help or indeed head me in the right direction. Really don't want to fit new discs & pads and have it happen again. I have the old Master Cyl maybe i should rebuild that ? seems such a shame to bin a " new " part. Mick
  11. Cheers for that Gareth, nice to know that it's happened before. Odd that i did not have a problem on shortish runs, i can only surmise that a steady 65/70 MPH for 14miles built up a bit of heat or maybe a bit more vacuum that allowed the servo to push on the master cyl. Feel a lot better now about fitting the new discs & pads. Mick.
  12. Hi all, i was just wondering if there is still a problem with TRW brake master cylinders. The reason for asking is that i fitted a new one about 3 months ago and all appeared to be ok. Set off for Brooklands Sunday morning got about 14 miles down the A303 and the front brakes locked on ( set fire to the o/s/f outer pad ) Now having checked the dimensions of the old M/C with the new one it would appear to be about 4mm slimmer so will close the gap on the servo push rod. With this in mind i have increased the gap a extra 6mm ( just to be sure ) Then replaced pads bleed brakes and road test .So-far so good. Do you think that i have found the problem or is it more likely to be the tipping valve sticking. Bit reluctant to go to far ( 8 miles for road test ) Also got new discs and pads to fit when i am positive i am not going to burst into flames again. Any help much appreciated Mick.
  13. Just wanted to add my experience with Classical Dash I purchased a dash from Ian at the Shepton Mallet show about 5 weeks ago, we spent a fair bit of time going over the different types of veneer, finally settled on burr elm. I got a email from him after 2 weeks to say dash was being worked on, the following week i sent him a mail and 4 days later i got reply ( don't worry if it takes a while to get a response he is busy and could do with a secretary ) We went over to his place the next day and picked the dash up. Its Beautiful worth every penny. Ian's a proper craftsman, not knocking out 1/2 dozen dashes a day on a assembly line, all hand made to order. L
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