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Michael Mckiernan

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Everything posted by Michael Mckiernan

  1. Really strange as you say " but " if it was ok before you filled the dash-pots !! As Rob has said check the choke linkage and check the diaphragm's are good also it might be a good idea to remove the air cleaner just to make sure the pistons rise and fall nicely. Could be a totally unrelated fault , got to love a old TR. Just to be clear the engine did run fine before ?? Mick.
  2. Morning Pete, 20/50 far to thick for dash pot oil. Needs to be quite light otherwise its almost impossible for the pistons to lift properly . Get that oil out , dont refill until you have got the engine running cleanly again then refill with much thinner oil. We used Auto transmission oil if nothing else was to hand, worked fine. Mick.
  3. Spot on Chris, it seems that no two M/Cylinders are the same. I had no problem at all bleeding my brakes after fitting a new M/C but after a fast run it pulled on the front brakes. Richard i held my push-rod with big long nose mole grips and turned the nut with a socket and ratchet. As i said it was murder tight. It's probably not been moved since the car was built. Just be "careful" and dont snap it off. May-be someone will be on with a better solution !! Mick.
  4. Hi Richard , welcome to the wonderful world of TR6 Master cylinder problems. As John has said it's the rod protruding from the servo that's adjustable and it is very tight. Gave mine about 1/8 - 3/16 free play as it slowly put the front brakes on as the fluid warmed up and expanded. Loads of stuff on here about this type of problem. Looks like your on the right track good luck. Mick.
  5. Agree with Mike C NGK BUR6ET's. very good plugs . Mick.
  6. + 1 for Bluecol and De-ionised water 50/50 mix. Mick.
  7. Hi Nige , i also have a storm force cover which works very well. It keeps my 6 dry but also allows any dampness to evaporate. Nice fit with 2 ties to secure underneath when it's windy. Good luck with your search. Mick.
  8. Hi Kev , have a look on the Silkaflex website for their range of adhesives. Stuck a huge solar panel to the roof of our motor home ( brackets each end ) still rock solid 8 years later. Mick.
  9. Think Stuart has got that right. Had a few badly made set's of points over the years that did exactly that. Get another set from Martin.
  10. That's interesting, Electronic fuel injection , didn't see that coming.
  11. Morning Keith, when your bleeding the rears does the pedal go to the floor ? As Waldi has mentioned if the lines have drained down it will take a while to get fluid to the back. Mick.
  12. Hi Michael you seem to have a slightly different problem to me. My Master Cylinder operated fine ( not sticking ) But it did have a smaller size mounting flange that allowed the Servo push rod to almost touch the M/C shuttle. Once i figured this out i just backed of the push rod ( which is adjustable ) If your M/C is not returning properly i would send it back to Rimmers . When you get your replacement just make sure you have the correct clearance on the push rod , i used a bit of Plasticine. Then gave it a little bit more lol. Been fine for 1000mls so i re
  13. There was one listed on eBAY last week. Never seen one before. Mick.
  14. Hi Mark, when the brakes locked on last year the AA sent out a patrol 1st to "have a look" Then called for a recovery firm that had a de-mountable flat bed. By the time they got to us ( 4 hours ) the brakes had cooled enough to drive on. I would think the RAC would do the same. Mick.
  15. Hi Roger , had this a few times over the years ( moggy 1000's and fiesta's ) If it's not your tappet adjustment it's probably the valve sticking in the guide, as the engine has been idle for a while it might be just a bit of rust and should clear. Mick
  16. Ha you can chuck them some pennies and they can throw over your nuts.
  17. Hi KOB, have you got a exhaust centre near you ? Our local Merityre kept brass nuts that i needed for a MG.
  18. I have a Fram 3600 on mine . It's the Tough Guard series which i have found to be very good. Long housing also with a non return valve. Mick
  19. Hi John, moving the MU drive , cant seem to get closer than about 50 degrees. All up and running , slightly lumpy but i did not check the injectors for air, will do that tomorrow. Might have another go at getting the timing closer , might be i kept missing a gog. NCT should be a standard CR cam , only done 76,000 and the last 2 owners never touched the engine but you never know. i will check when i have more time. If i cant get it closer i will have a try at timing it as a CP as you advise . easy enough to do. Thanks again Mick.
  20. Cheers for the clarification on the Brown book. Have got it to 69mm ( book specs 67 mm Max ) but the next tooth back moves it to the other end of the scale. Should be close enough or is it ? Probably did'nt explain what i meant John , when i removed the MU i had number 6 valves rocking as per book after fitting the recon MU had a look in no 6 outlet and the rotor hole was not visable, turned crank slowly in the direction of rotation and the hole appeared at "roughly" 180 degrees . Removed pedestal, turned gear until i got it as close as 69 mm . Does that make any
  21. Morning all , i know this has probably been asked and answered before ( and i have looked ) but is the MU Timing for a CR engine wrong in the brown bible. The reason for asking is i have just recieved my overhauled MU from Neil Ferguson and as i was there thought i would just check the timing. It appears to be 180 out if the manual is right . Car seemed to run ok before if a bit rich. Any help would be great. Thanks Mick
  22. Hi Adrian , have you tried disconnecting it from the metering unit then see if it's still there. If it is disconnect it from the fast idle and check again. Also dont secure the cable to anything that could cause resonance ( injection pipes ) Mick.
  23. Quick up-date, new discs & pads fitted, brake fluid changed again. 65/70 mph for 15 miles then through town in traffic for 20mins. Then back up the motor way 70+ for 15 miles, All good when i got home, front brakes just warm ( what you would expect ) Hope this has cured the problem, next stop Stratford On Avon. Mick. . .
  24. 42 Miles and brakes are almost cold , looks like it was the clearance on the servo push-rod. And as John L posted the Master cyl does get hot on a longish fast run. Fit the new stuff tomorrow and try it again. Thanks again. Mick.
  25. Thanks for all the information, looks like there might be a on-going problem. I will take a chance tomorrow when the weather clears and drive the same route now i have a gap on the servo push rod. Borrowed a digital temp gauge to see what is happening ( Hopefully nothing ) If it still overheats i will contact Rimmers return the unit and get a refurbish kit and overhaul my old unit. Lovely to see so many TR's at the classic we had a look round but as the tent was very crowded we did not say hello ( it was pouring down ) With a bit of luck i will try to get up to the In
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