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About michaelfinnis

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  1. Actually the more you think about it the more about it the more intriguing the subject of body stiffness becomes. I’ve read other articles and forum posts referring to the tank providing stiffening, and about a firewall between the tank and cabin helping with the same. But given that the TR’s are built on a separate chassis which is the major structural element ( except the 7 of course) I wonder what part the body is intended to play in stiffening the whole. It would be interesting to know the original design philosophy, though I’m going a bit off thread.
  2. My use of the term ‘structural member’ was perhaps not the best choice of wording, the point I was trying to make was that loads due to flexing of the body shell pass through the tank. That’s my understanding from previous forums on the subject, though I may be mistaken. Reference earthing, it is a standard requirement in industry that components in fuel storage or transfer systems are bonded together to avoid the possibility of sparking due to potential difference between them. Mike.
  3. The tank forms a structural member when bolted in position and helps provide rigidity to the body, so I don't think rubber mounts would be a good idea. There shouldn't be any vibration. Also as you say I would have thought the tank should be earthed to avoid static build up. Mike.
  4. michaelfinnis


    I have a Revington diaphragm type PRV that has only been used for a couple of hundred miles. I'm willing to sell for a fair price, PM me if you are interested. mike.
  5. +1 for 165x80x15 Vredestein. Steering gets heavier with wider tyres as well. Mike.
  6. Hi Nige, there are some decent pictures of steering wheel and column set up here, http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-46/TR6-46.html ,also as Rob says there should be just a single purple/black wire to the slip ring. Mike.
  7. Hi, according to the official workshop manual camber is 1/2 deg. pos +/- 1 deg. unladen or 0 deg. +/- 1/2 deg. loaded(two up)for a PI car. Carb cars are 1/4 deg. pos +/- 1deg. unladen or 1/4 deg. neg. +/- 1/2 deg. loaded. I assume the differences are due to different weights and tyre sizes. Mike.
  8. Hi, two thoughts; What about refitting the original distributor, not too much work and that might prove if the new one is the problem or not. Secondly, what RPM is the car idling at, and is it stable? Mechanical ignition advance comes in around 900 RPM, so could the movement of the timing marks be due to erratic engine speed rather than a problem with the distributor? Mike.
  9. Accelerator moves throttle butterflies, but MU fuelling is controlled by vacuum. Problem with the vacuum chamber on the MU or the hose to it? Mike.
  10. Hi Andy, enrichment is needed not just to start, but required until the engine reaches normal temperature. The degree of enrichment required will taper off as the engine warms up. As John says the Triumph set up is designed to give the necessary degree of enrichment for the selected fast idle setting. Using two knobs would work, but will be a lot more fiddly to use than the normal single knob. I can't see that it will give any fuel saving. Mike.
  11. Hi, if buying new there are different length cables depending on whether the car is early or late PI, or carbs. Revington describe the lengths for an early PI like yours as 1230mm/1055mm, whilst SC parts say 41.75/49.25 inch, which works out fractionally longer. When mine broke I bought one from TRGB who were the only people with stock available at the time. It works ok, but the twist and lock function is not very good, in fact after some use it stopped working but the friction is sufficient to use it as a normal push/pull cable. Also the knob is not detachable. Mike.
  12. Hi Richard, I believe there should be studs both on the B pillar as per Steve's photo, and on the back panel. My cover has three straps that attach to the rear panel.As Cameron says, this creates some space under the folded hood. Mike.
  13. Mike C, the washer overlaps the horn push sufficiently to retain it in place. Mike.
  14. hi Paul, I got round the same problem by fitting a thin washer under one of the boss retaining bolt heads which overlaps the horn enough to retain it. After trimming the washer to fit the boss profile, and applying a little black paint, its not really noticeable unless you know its there. Mike.
  15. Thats interesting,I have the same type of valve on my early 1969 TR6. I guessed it must have only been fitted to early production cars, since I've never seen another one before, and I've never found it in any parts catalogue. The standard air pipe does not fit it. mike.
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