Jump to content

SpeedFreak

TR Register Members
  • Content Count

    19
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About SpeedFreak

Profile Information

  • Cars Owned:
    58 Sunbeam Rapier, Various BMW’s Ferrari 308, Ginetta,

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. SpeedFreak

    Dowels

    Glad to see that humour is still alive !! Richard..
  2. Thank you Berry and John. just what I need. Richard..
  3. SpeedFreak

    Dowels

    Thank you for the heads up Alan. This will probably bring shrieks of condemnation, but mine had slack anyway so would have needed a new shaft, so I put four welds two either side of the fork, no slack now and yes I realise that to do any future work will require cutting the shaft. Richard..
  4. Can anyone help me with "A" standard CP head thickness and "B" what thickness or what is removed for raising the comp. ratio to say 10.5 to 1
  5. SpeedFreak

    Dowels

    Thank you Alan, Thats just what I wanted to know. Richard..
  6. SpeedFreak

    Dowels

    Can anyone advise me as to does the TR6 engine gearbox assy need or use dowels for location as there are suitable holes ? but mine didn't have any when separated . Thanks Richard..
  7. Good luck Richard, the worst bit for me was getting at the three nuts holding the heater assy, you can see them okay but getting a spanner on them is tricky to say the least. I had the engine and gearbox out at the time so had plenty of access, not that I am suggesting this is necessary If you need any heat resistant sleeving, I had to buy a metre to get 150 mm so have plenty, let me know if you need any and I will post you some. Richard..
  8. I had the exact same problem, it turns out to be typical poor design. the wiring for the motor inside the heater box runs too close to the low speed resistor, which generates high temperature when in circuit , i.e. low speed fan, This heats the insulation which can then sag and short out on the casing. Solution i'm afraid is removal of the heater, repair of the wire and I strongly suggest some heat resistant tubing to cover said wire. Good Luck Richard..
  9. Yes thank you Neil it was a typo, it should have been 0.2165 lowest to 0.2185 inch. The die is set, the whole lump is coming out now for further measurements etc. Richard..
  10. Good morning Jochem if you are still following, My woes get worse, using a dial gauge I measured the cam lift as 21.65mm which i think is well below standard, maybe this indicates a regrind ?. Any thoughts ? Richard..
  11. Nigel, careful is my middle name, as anyone who has helped me pick up the pieces of my BSA Starfire, Triumph 900 Leg end, or Ducati Monster will tell you . Richard..
  12. I will keep you posted Nigel, it won’t happen overnight as it now looks like I will take the whole drivetrain out as I also have an overdrive to go on. The efi will use CP type throttle bodies with the injectors in the original places and the distribution manifold fitted where the original mechanical fuel pump was so as to retain a near original look, I have nearly everything ready except an air filter can. Richard..
  13. Hi Darren and Peter W, Seems I have started a separate new topic ( can of worms ) so here goes. Prior to 1970 U.S. and of course U.K. engines were tested to SAE Gross ( J245 ) standards, this is without ancilliaries such as water pump, alternator/generator, fan, fan belt, air cleaner, restrictive exhausts etc. so was an unrealistic Gross output under ideal conditions. After about 1972 engines were tested to SAE Net ( J1349 ) standards that aligned more closely to current DIN standards i.e. with all ancilliaries fitted and corrected for Temp, Pressure etc. The confusion over the conversion factor seems to be that SAE Horsepower is defined as 740 Watts and Din PS is I think more like 736 Watts ( I stand to be corrected ). As an aside, I wanted an engine powered alternator for boat use so I fitted a 50 amp alternator to a small generator engine ( 3-5 hp probably ) direct drive, connected it up started the engine switched on and the engine stalled immediately, another bright idea down the drain, but it does show the drain on HP from such ancilliaries. Thank you all but I still do not know what might be going on in my engine so has anyone seen my set of AF spanners? and thank you Jochem I will check cam lift asap.
  14. Yes Jochem, correct head for a US car, to get back to my original question, I know the engine has been rebuilt and I am sure that the power output is nearer 120 bhp compared to early SAE standards, look at the torque figure 149 compared to 132 as factory spec. I just want to know if anything else might have been done before I wade in with my spanner’s and hammer ? thanks for you interest .
  15. My understanding is 15 to 20 % we are talking early SAE, I am sorry I don’t recall the SAE number, I will look them up later. Under the early SAE regime engines were tested on a dynamometer with short exhaust stubs, no alternator/ dynamo, no cooling fan and possibly no water pump or fan belt, that is worth more than 2% ( I think you are confusing the latest SAE which is more in line with DIN ). I hope I am not adding confusion out there ? Thank you for your interest.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.