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About rwest

  • Birthday 05/07/1963

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  • Location
    Pezenas, South of France
  • Cars Owned:
    TR6 CR (1973)
    TR6 CP (1971) sold
    Spitfire 1500 (1976) sold

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715 profile views
  1. Elin Yakov's "Rusty Beauties" on YouTube has a playlist showing the disassembly/reassembly of a GT6 gearbox which is identical to a TR6. I found it extremely useful as he goes through the entire procedure and explains everything he is doing.
  2. I remember reading exactly the same when I fitted mine - do not heat the nylon tubes as they will stretch and not return to their exact original diameter. If the block that you have made to hold the tube fits tightly you should have no problem tapping the the right-angled connector in. Having said that, the connector does get pretty warm while the engine is running, so who am I to say? Cheers, Robert
  3. To be fair to Elin, only the hidden parts have anything more than a millimetre of filler on (certainly on his later rebuilds), and he often shows the great big lumps that PO's have chucked on the car. The external bodywork is as close to perfect as a he can do, and it's a very skilled sheet metal worker that can produce a join that needs no filler at all. Cheers, Robert
  4. I would also highly recommend Elin Yakov's Rusty Beauties on YouTube. There are literally hundreds of videos about TR6 rebuilds he has done from the ground up, and he has given me the confidence to tackle my car later this year. He does everything except the paint job (not a problem for you), including rebuilding the engine, gearbox, overdrive and fixing bodywork, chassis and electrics. The only downside is that he's based in Canada, so no coverage of the PI system. I have no affiliation with Elin and don't know him, I just have a deep respect for what he does for free. This is the lin
  5. I respectfully disagree. My brakes can out-perform my tyres, so the extra width of 195's do make a significant difference IMHO. Cheers, Robert
  6. The link to Marco's thread is: electric terminals on my temperature gauge ...and I agree, the search is awful (sorry mods - I know it's not your fault, it's the software). Cheers, Robert
  7. Hi@JochemsTR- what length of Stahlbus valve do you have? They have 16mm & 22mm in the 3/8-24UNFX22mm version. They are expensive, but probably worth the money if they get rid of the bleeding issues. Cheers, Robert
  8. Hi Chris I'm not sure about in Spain, but here in France (where they tend to be pretty fussy) they didn't have any problem with my MPH speedo, but mine does have KPH on the internal dial which I would assume is standard on all UK cars. Cheers, Robert
  9. @Martin50- here's a fairly decent explanation: AutoCar Inspection It's not TR specific, but quite a nice article. Cheers, Robert
  10. I also removed my engine driven fan and now only use an electric fan mounted in front of the radiator. One of the nice side-effects (other than a cool engine when in traffic) is that there is plenty of room in front of the engine, so no problem manually turning the crankshaft and no chance of removing my knuckles when using a strobe for timing. Cheers, Robert
  11. Thank you John, I always wondered what the point of a multi-spring setup was and was afraid to ask, now I know. Robert
  12. I was afraid to admit that I've only had a single pre-pump filter on my Bosch pump setup for the last 20 years, so I'm glad to discover that I'm not the only one I completely understand the belt-and-braces approach of having an additional filter after the pump, but I've never had a problem in the 77000 miles that I've driven my TR6. Cheers, Robert
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