Jump to content

tthomson

TR Register Members
  • Content Count

    1,046
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

tthomson last won the day on January 21

tthomson had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

18 Good

About tthomson

  • Birthday 11/22/1952

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.thirdwaveweb.co.uk
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Location
    Marlow, Bucks
  • Cars Owned:
    see signature

Recent Profile Visitors

784 profile views
  1. I modified my manual wash to electric. The circuit was very simple . 12 volts supply to switch from switch to wash motor then from motor to ground. Modifying the dash based plunger was the more complicated part, but attached is a diagram of what I did. I made this mod in 2003. I seem to remember having the details published in TR Action at that time. Good Luck TT
  2. It is unfortunate that 'Phoenixing' is practiced widely in all areas of business. The FSB (Federation of Small and medium Businesses) have tried to get Companies House to prevent this, but they say it is a civil matter, and they are powerless to stop it unless criminal legal proceedings are brought against the perpetrators (apparently for each registered company). It is a serious flaw in the way we register companies in the UK. (It is very easy to register a business). In other countries the rules are far more stringent. I am not arguing to make it more stringent in the UK, but I think someone disqualified as a director should automatically have all directorships rescinded until these are investigated. As someone who has run multiple companies, and had multiple concurrent directorships, I would support this action. TT
  3. Hi David, I think most of the people using the forum are in agreement with you when it comes to previous posts with useful information. I think cvtrian was making a humorous interjection because we held Badfrog in high esteem, and to see his contributions today is a warm reminder of him. Kind regards Tony
  4. Hi Roger, I spent some time working out exactly what the changeover switch does in the 14W motor. (see attached image). When the motor is switched off, it continues to turn because the power supplied on terminal 4 is connected via the changeover switch to terminal 2, which via the external wiring should connect to terminal 5 (slow speed connection). When the motor reaches it's home position, the park switch pin pushes the common connector of the changeover switch. This disconnects terminal 2 from terminal 4 and instead connects it to terminal 1 (ground). In this state, terminal 2 is still connected via the external wiring to terminal 5, and now also to terminal 1 (ground). Connecting terminals 2 and 5 shorts out the motor winding, which brings the motor to an abrupt stop from back emf. As far as I can see, connecting the coil to ground protects it from spurious voltage spikes. I have used two changeover relays to manage the external connections since to me that is the simplest way to achieve the required connections. (Others may have different ways to do this). Noting the relative ease in swapping the changeover switch, I would estimate that switch failure is not an uncommon occurrence! I hope that helps. Tony
  5. Most of the mini relays are fine. Typically they happily switch up to 30 Amps. Your motor should not be drawing that amount of current. TT
  6. An update on wiring in a 14W motor. The existing pull switch on a TR4A will work fine if wired correctly. Here is how it connects to the loom. As in previous diagram, I am using two changeover relays to get the proper functioning of the fast, slow and park facilities. Kind regards Tony T
  7. If anyone is considering a 14W conversion, here is a wiring diagram for that option: TT
  8. I shipped my TR4A to California in 1983 using Fred Noonan Ltd. (based in Shepherds Bush area). It was very easy and they informed me of the shipping date, and various other relevant pieces of information including the paperwork I would need to get it out of customs in San Francisco. It arrived on the due date. I was informed of the date I could collect it, and when I went to collect it, of the five or six people trying to collect cars, I was the only one with the right paperwork to allow me to drive it away. It was shipped on deck (not in a container). When I brought it back to the UK in 1986, I had it shipped as part of a consolidated container. Basically the removal company we used, loaded half the container with our household items and then built a wooden frame to protect the TR in the other half. On arrival in the UK (I was informed in advance of the shipping date, the removal truck arrived outside my house, having already cleared customs, before they realised my TR was inside. They had to drive to a suitable unloading bay to get the car out, but otherwise it was relatively simple. TT
  9. As others have said, if a professional wants it, it is already gone! An immobiliser and a tracker are effective. Some trackers allow you to listen in to any conversations, and can also be used to speak to the would be thief. Physical security like a m/cycle chain or steering wheel lock are also useful, but at some point you need to ask whether the inconvenience outweighs the benefit. Keeping it in a secure garage is the first port of call! TT
  10. Hi Geko, Photoshop may be able to do this, (I am not familiar enough with PS), but it ain't cheap. I think you will find that it is not technically as simple as clicking on the item to select it. Any software that can handle this will need to identify the colour across multiple hue and saturation ranges. Our brain's ability to do this is absolutely astounding, but you need very sophisticated software to do it. Ideally you need a Quantel Paintbox, but these were Television Broadcast quality devices produced in the 1980s, (and still the preferred option in Broadcast TV). My wife played with one when I worked for a sister company in California. It was an exceptional device, but £100k+ at that time. Quantel are no longer around. They were based in Newbury but sold worldwide. Kind regards TT
  11. Hi Chris, I have a spare passenger grab handle for a RH TR4A. The covering is cracked, but it is otherwise OK. Let me know if you want it, and I'll dig it out of my garage. Tony
  12. Hi Rich, I fully understand where you are coming from, and I believe you when you say you offer excellent quality. I also believe the quality of the parts you provide are not an issue. If you don't want it to be a business then you are facing an uphill struggle, but that is your choice. I think what I was really focusing on is the timing of would be customers. Unless someone needs the item you are selling right now to solve a problem, and they are prepared to pay to resolve the problem, and they accept to pay the price you ask, they will not buy. What you are doing is telling a likely group of people that you have something they might want, but the person hearing your message makes all the decisions. Often a person will make do or put off the decision to buy for reasons that are specific and personal to them. The only thing you have control of is the message you want them to receive, and a way to remind them that you are there when they need your service. I do wish you all the best in what you are doing, but don't give up hope. When the time is right people will look to find the person who can solve their problem. You just need them to remember who you are at the right time! (I am still looking for an exchange diff for a TR4A, but only when I can justify the cost! At the moment I have too many other calls on my finances.) Kind regards Tony
  13. Hi Roger, If the LED is lighting due to parastic AC ripple as Bob suggests, and I think he is probably right, then it may help to include a 10uF (25Volt) capacitor across the LED, and possibly a silicon diode (e.g. 1N4007), or suitable Zener diode, in series with the LED since that increases the voltage required to light the LED. You may need to adjust the Resistor to get the ideal LED output. Kind regards Tony
  14. Hi Rich, I think you face a number of problems 1. You are still a relatively unknown entity and therefore you lack sufficient credibility, and I don't mean that negatively, but it is about being seen as "the person to go to." for something. You have started the ball rolling, but now you need to keep it going. 2. It is extremely difficult to sell high priced items (irrespective of the quality) as someone who does this as a hobby. It requires marketing and that means expenditure so the costs go up. Social media (including forum posts) is a relatively low cost way to build visibility of what you do. 3. Selling is a misnomer, you are really appealing to people who are ready to buy, and that is always a small number at any specific time, so you need to give them something to remind them of you so that when they are ready to buy, they contact you. (The cards were a good idea, but as was once explained to me "The fortune is in the follow up!") So how do you ensure that people keep you in mind? (which is the essence of marketing). 4. The way I look at it is this: who do you want to buy from you? Where do they congregate? What do you say to to them so they understand what you are offering? How do you help them to keep you in mind? Kind regards Tony
  15. I have a number of TR4A wheels for sale, and will be putting details on the classified section once I can sort out how to do so. There are 5 wire wheels with four hubs and six knock-ons (Two lots of two eared left and right, and one pair three eared left and right) Four of the wires are chromed, the other is painted (silver). I have had them since 1981. The chrome ones were on the car when I bought it, (and the painted was in the boot as a spare). The tyres were changed at some point, but are probably not worth keeping. I am not familiar enough with wires to know how to tune them (or test them). PM me if you are interested.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.