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twostrokekid

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About twostrokekid

  • Birthday 01/16/1952

Profile Information

  • Location
    Coventry
  • Cars Owned:
    Triumph TR4A
    Jaguar S Type Sport

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  1. You've probably replaced it by now but just in case, yes the fan motor looks pretty much identical to the one in your pics.
  2. Fully agree with the long screwed in bolts idea. You need a couple of 4" lengths of 5/16UNC threaded rod set at opposite sides of the engine block so the gearbox has a nice lead in for refitting. You can get threaded rods of all lengths off eBay. Also some fat cushions to sit on while you are sitting/half lying on the floor panels, straddling the transmission tunnel while using both hands and feet to manoeuvre the beast back in. Oh, and try not to sit on the two handbrake uprights!
  3. I had the same problem Paul and when all the usual workarounds failed I had to remove the gearbox and drift the friction plate off the flywheel with a bolster chisel. I came off straight away with no visible damage and as it had only done 100 miles from new (but had been in long term storage) I refitted it, but did change the release bearing and taper pin. If you decide to do the work yourself as I did, the best piece of advice I picked up off this forum when refitting the gearbox is to make up two 4" lengths of 5/16 UNC screwed rod and fit at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions on the
  4. It's a classic vibration absorber; a mass attached via a rubber insert. The engineers would measure output flange vibration with an accelerometer and determine the (always) very narrow band of resonance and then attach a calculated spring mass to damp it out. Standard practice in heavy engineering but not so much in today's automotive industry. I managed to remove the lump with the gearbox in situ to lighten the load when lifting out. Now, my genius idea is to turn the mounting prong through 180 degrees so it is pointing upwards and make some sort of temporary handle to help with the fid
  5. I guess the thing to do is leave the lump off and only refit if I get a vibration. It looks a simple retrofit. To be honest I'm as much concerned at minimising the weight when I finally pluck up enough strength to lift the box back in!! Reading through my service history notes I've had the gearbox out 5 times; three times out through the floor and twice with the engine. I was just 23 years old when I first took it out, swapped the clutch and put it back single handed in a day and a half. Now, 45 years later the car is cruelly exposing the frailties of ageing, but I'm damned if I let
  6. My TR4A has one of those Fred Flintstone weights bolted on the rear of the gearbox by the drive flange. It was there when I bought the car in 1975 but since then the gearbox has been rebuilt twice, the propshaft has been replaced, the engine has a different crankshaft, a lightened flywheel and the fan and pedestal have been removed and replaced with a thin belt harmonic damper. I just happen to have the gearbox out of the car at the moment and sitting on the garage floor, a job that I really didn’t want to do but the car has been in storage for the last 25 years and the clutch (which has 100
  7. When I did my first rebuild back in 1979 I found both sill closing panels (the vertical bit that forms part of the floor panel) had rotted away. I replaced the sills with new ones but simply cut the closing vertical bits off the floors and never reinstated them. I can get under the car and paint the insides of the sills with Hammerite and Waxoyl, they're out of sight and not structural. There is nothing to trap any road muck and they don't corrode any more. I added the scuttle drain extension by lengthening the drain hose down through the sill in the enclosed box section in front of the '
  8. I've got a Stanpart original in the roof of the garage. I changed my original deck in 1977 but fitted a deck with some imperfections that I've lived with for too long. You're right, its the outer ends that rust but in my case its the centre section over the fuel filler that has some wavy dents that were there when I fitted it. I guess I'm just more choosy nowadays.
  9. Looks very tidy, I'd be more than happy with that result! Thanks for the pics Tim. I need to take the back end apart to change the H deck so I'll strip out the rear window of the Surrey frame for the paint job and trim it then. Thanks again.
  10. Tim that's really useful, much appreciated. If you could upload a pic of the backlight that would be great! John
  11. Hi guys, I've got a 1967 TR4A that I've owned since 1975. I did a chassis off rebuild back in 1980 and used it for many years afterwards but one way or another the car has sat around in the garage for the last 25 years!. Long story! I was hoping my sons would get Car SOS along to sort it for me but they never bothered so it looks like I've got to do it. LOL This thread has interested me because I bought a Surrey top (backlight, hard top and fabric Surrey section and frame) from a guy in Birmingham way back in 1979 for the princely sum of £20 for the lot off his scrap TR4 - the good o
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