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AndrewP

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    Western Australia (Perth)

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  1. There are two holes on the pivot points that you need to get right. Driver Side Inboard Driver side Outboard Only other thing that can cause issues are (as Ed says) seats swapped, mounted to the floor wrong or the catch tabs have been moved (easy to remove and fit back to front). Hope it helps.
  2. Ok..for those playing at home I'll answer my own question. The union needs a 1/4" BSP self centring bonded washer (or dowty seal). Hopefully that will solve my fuel smell in the boot (already have the barricade lines everywhere)
  3. Hi Everyone, I have a small fuel leak at the junction of the fuel pump outlet and compression fitting on the Lucas Fuel pump. Does anyone happen to know the size so I can source locally? Im hopeful that someone has jotted the size down when they replaced theirs. Thanks Andrew
  4. AndrewP

    Thank you

    Thanks all for the nice comments. The Jensen is sulking at the moment at the lack of attention its getting but its next on the list for a bit of TLC. It needs a bit of work doing with the welder so I`ll wait until winter until I begin that epic..but I still have it and love the difference between the waft and V8 of the Jensen, and the more frantic and go-cart like experience of the TR. Tom, Thanks for the tip. I`ll cut and polish then apply the decals as the last 'icing on the cake'. Cheers Andrew
  5. AndrewP

    Thank you

    So its been a eventful week or so in TR6 land. Without boring everyone with the details, the original plates for my car were on 'retention' after the accident for the duration of the restoration. This means the equivalent of the UK DVLA take the plate and store them until you apply them to a vehicle. We dont have a yearly MOT type test, but, if and when the car registration lapses and/or you get stopped and the vehicle is found to be non-compliant, then you have to go through a major test. For some reason, they decided that this was no longer the case and sent me a letter saying basically I had until the 19th Nov to register the plates, or they would be destroyed. There is nothing unique about the number, nor the plate, but I wanted to keep the 'originality' so...last Thurs, the car was passed (first time...naturally) and now is road legal. I just wanted to say a heartfelt thanks to everyone on here (and no longer here ) that has offered advise, information, assistance, and general encouragement when it started to drag and you wonder if it will ever be finished (and those bloodied knuckles will ever heal!). Its warming up here for summer (38C tomorrow) and so shes ready just in time for the good weather. A few jobs still to do, mostly cosmetic (haven't applied the TR6 rear decals yet until I can wet sand and cut/polish) but for the next few months its enjoying it, tweaking and ironing out some of the niggly bits that are bound to pop up after a nut and bolt restoration. Once again, thanks everyone. Cheers Andrew
  6. Well..the overwhelming responses to this post must means no-one has had to do this? Anyway..answered my own question today and yes, it can be done. Not an easy job and a pair of extra hands would really help, but do-able.
  7. Has anyone replaced their soft top webbing without removing the actual vinyl roof material? I need to replace as when previously fitted to the car, the frame must have been in a different spot as no matter what I did, the webbing would not stretch to accommodate locking into the hood rail. So...can it be replaced with the hood still attached? Any tips or advise appreciated. Thanks
  8. Hi, I'm about to pull my driver's seat apart and have just yesterday finished the passenger seat. I have a few pics but let me know if there is anything specific you need. There's plenty of photos on Ed,s tr6 site (http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6 TOC.html) as well as Bob's site http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org that I have used a number of times. Let me know of specific shots you need if you can't get the info from the above sites..I've also used the Moss and Rimmers catalogues as a guide also. Cheers Andrew
  9. Hello everyone, Thanks all for the compliments. Its not 100% there yet, but not far off. Im fighting my own OCD-ness and just making sure everything is done right. The final job will be to wet sand and polish the paint up as its currently wearing the gun finish so a few orange peel bits here and there. Andrew, yep all recovered-ish. I've had 4 operations in total and the nerve endings in my cheek are never going to be 100% right but mostly all OK. Craig, the WA police normally do a great job, but unfortunately it would seem that for both mine and your cases, the standard wasn't up to scratch. I took my incident as far up as I could muster the energy to do at the time, but short of a civil case, the police didn't do anything to help my case whatsoever. What was the outcome with your TR6? Did it get repaired and is it back on the road? If you need anything then give me a yell as I have a shed full of bits now (not intentionally) after the rebuild so If I can help? Cheers again everyone. It`ll be a red letter day when it gets re-registered and I get the plates back on it. Andrew
  10. Hmmm...I replied to this yesterday but its since vanished? Anyway...I had just said thanks to you both Len and Ed. Makes sense when you can see how it 'works' I second Terry's comments as well. Ive used your site Ed a number of times when even though I must have taken in the 10's of 100's of photos, theres always one you dont have! Thanks again Cheers Andrew
  11. Evening everyone. Im at the stage of recovering the seats..last bit now. Ive pulled the passenger seat apart, cleaned and painted it all up nice and when trying a test fit, the cotton white panels seem to have no apparent use. The original covers (at least they look original with the original Dunlop 'pillow' foam still there) didnt appear to have them so what purpose do they cover? The panels are the white, cotton squares that have been sewn into the covers in the below pic. The lower cover also has a panel (not pictured) Appreciate any advise before I go in with the contact adhesive. Thanks Andrew
  12. Hi Mike, Agree, but it's slipping in all gears. I think what's happened is for whatever reason the slave has gone beyond its limits and can't return fully as even with the arm disconnected, I can't push the slave rod back. Probably a strange bit of luck as well finding the master was leaking too before it did damage to the paint. Anyway, a night or two in the garage will see it fixed and hopefully fully functional again. Cheers
  13. Air filter is on my list of things to do. Just got to fab up a bracket.
  14. Hi Stan, Yep..no doubt picked up from you or someone else on here. Just remember thinking 'what a good idea!' and so when the time came I made a small mod to add relays for the hi and lo beams and cooling fan. The O/D is another relay up by the wiper motor plus a couple of spares relay bases for future. In hindsight and a bit of planning I would have put all the relays together and got autosparks (the loom mfg) to modify accordingly. Instead I had to un-bind and strip the loom back and then re-loom to get the relays on the fender. Anyway..thanks for the compliments.
  15. So..its been a while. Nearly 6-7 months actually since my last post...but its finally nearly there. Im currently stripping back the seats, passenger side first, but carpets are in and the car is driveable (albeit round the block only). The time taken on the little things...getting stuff lined, up, folded over, tweaked here, tweaked there and even after ALL that, still not 100% is moral draining stuff. On good days, beer in hand you stand back and look and go..ahhh...that looks awesome. Other days, you find all the bits only you know about and think about 'fixing' them. Anyway..a pic for the record of where we are:- Engine bay looks good too.. It needs a proper shake-down and the recently discovered clutch master and slave rebuilding but almost there. Thanks again for everyones help along the way...not quite there yet, but not far off. Cheers Andrew
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