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Showing results for 'silicon hoses'.
Found 23 results
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Hi Chris if you mean metal braided fuel injector hoses there are also tales of lumpy running due to vaporisation arising from the higher temperatures generated when compared to the original nylon spec ones.
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https://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr4076ssk/name/pipe-kit-caliperss-hoses Revingtons do this kit to get around the problem. (I made my own version !) Bob
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Denis if you use a silicon based sealant make absolutely 100 percent sure that you do not get any silicon on the inside edge of your sump! I didnt use a silicon based sealant - I forget what I did use actually but I did a few trial runs with silicon based and no matter how careful I was I always ended up with some on the inside edge of sump- obviously I removed all traces and fitted a new gasket.
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No definitely not split MikeC- the whole system looks ‘as new’. Ive now found that what I have is a Revington Bosch pump kit that also includes a pre-filter being the one pictured in the boot. I can’t imagine it being a waste of time Stuart if it’s part of their kit- it looks good quality with a removable filter element & is only a pre- filter’ anyway. the pump incl the main Bosch filter is mounted outside the boot under the NS boot floor panel hence I suppose the braided hoses for added protection. Why have a set up that spills petrol internally if it can be avoided -especially
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My heater core failed and I bypassed it for a few years by connecting supply and return hoses near the control valve using a piece of 1/2" copper pipe formed into a 90 degree bend. I probably could have continued this arrangement forever had I not wanted to use the car more on cold spring days.
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No particular reason other than it worked well with the hoses, fittings and the position of the tank. There isn’t a splash plate as yet but if it needs one I will make one. Only trying out will determine that one. I needed to position the outlet so the screw heads wouldn’t interfere with the rockers inside. It’s in the middle instead of higher up because the cover is flat there but starts to curve as it gets higher up
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As John says, your car is running rich. First simple checks would be the choke mechanism, either a sticking cable or the enrichment lever on the metering unit stuck partly open. If that's okay, the next suspect would be a vacuum leak on the inlet side causing the metering unit to deliver more fuel. Look for damaged vacuum hoses, inlet manifold gasket leaks or split metering unit diaphragm. If the above all check out okay, there's plenty more advice available here. Nigel
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+1 for swaging the ends, or, as an alternative non-standard solution Demon Tweeks supply a machined aluminium bulkhead fitting. I’ve had these on the car using silicon hoses for a few years now with no leaks, yet. David https://www.demon-tweeks.com/demon-tweeks-single-bulkhead-hose-adaptors-1297177/?sku=TSDSBHHA1&istCompanyId=a2904180-3a7d-4e56-b876-cf81c9512180&istFeedId=6fbc4b04-fd28-4ce1-8513-835c8f118690&istItemId=wptrrqalp&istBid=t&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8J6wBhDXARIsAPo7QA_JvlU1VgA69xANOUX7PGhgZEMUAX8fZ0tHxTSWqy-mMMBkAj8s0YEaAolsEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.
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I think Flame trap and new hoses are the way to go for now. Thanks for comments. Kevin
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I guess for some the aforementioned device might have some redeeming value but for me its Silicon Snake Oil (credit: Clifford Stoll) as as proper trickle charger has an indicator. I for one like going into the garage just to look at the display on mine
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..not on the TR (although that is quite firm and needs a fair weight on the pedal with the old style twin master cylinder) but on the Midget. This is an early car (Oct '61) and has a similar twin master cylinder to the early TR's. It is drums all round and after adjusting the brakes the pedal is really firm (it was quite firm before) and takes quite a press to brake hard. The master cylinder was replaced about 6 years ago and the brakes have always required some pressure but they just seem much firmer now. The rear wheel cylinders were replaced at a similar time to the master, and the fro
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There are two bore sizes of master cylinder fitted on Sprite/Midget. The bore changes when disc brakes are fitted. That bore change would affect pedal pressure. Have you mixed up the fluid type in the master cyl? Using regular in a system previously filled with silicon causes a heavy pedal and the cylinder seals to swell and stick.
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Consider swaging a flare on the plain end of your new bulkhead fittings to give a better chance of the hose sealing. All this waffle about coating the adaptor with gasket sealant is a sticking plaster for pipes that are too small for the hoses due to metrication. From another post….. The fitting I had to swage was stainless. The clamp part of the tool I have fitted snuggly and then I formed a simple flare to the tube to increase its final diameter. Be sure to remove any nicks or burrs from the tube end that could cut the hose. I have just done a dummy test on my
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I talked to the person who is making the covers. The project is on hold while he figures out a suitable way to mask off the cap to apply the black paint for production. He is planning on reproducing the center steering wheel center pad. Should be out later this year. The maker of these product has done the TR250 bumble bee hoses and the seat springs in the past of high quality. No financial interest on my part, just passing the word along to give him a push. PM me if you want to be on his list. FWIW he is in the USA.
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I have seen this on TR and MG forums before and the general concensus seems to be a stuck master cylinder or collapsed flexible hoses. Maybe either can be rulled out through bleeding? Mark
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I seem to remember, just tapping it gently with a screwdriver and hammer will loosen it. Best to mark the position of the cylinders before you do so that at the very least you can put it back where it was. I went through all the others things first that can affect mixture at the MU, namely the vacuum amount. Throttle plates closed and balanced, air filter clean or new, tappets adjusted correctly. I put a gauge on the vacuum take off to measure the amount. Making sure you have no leaks from the hoses, diaphragm etc. Good idea to make sure the ignition side is working well too before final
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Hi I fitted CDD power steering over Christmas, the earlier version ran from the crank pully as described in the instructions on their webb site. The latest version drives from the water pump pully with a shorter drive belt new pump supplied with double pully. My observation when fitting which I did my self. Do not fit with the engine lifting Eye which instructions say can be left on if wished, with it left on the pump does not run square. The pump pully was 3mm out of alignment so I made some spacers to align it, this is noticeable with the short belt, the older version
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I've got the Robi 18V ONE+™ HP Cordless Brushless 41Bar Power Washer. https://uk.ryobitools.eu/garden-tools/garden-cleaning-tools/pressure-washers/ry18pwx41a/ry18pwx41a-0/ This is the higher power HP version, which is the one to go for. The less powerfull model is a bit weak according to reviews. It is really a pressure cleaner. not a pressure washer. It will never replace a proper pressure washer and hose. It is best use is a convenient power cleaner rather than running power cords and hoses out or as a remote cleaner in a place away from power and water sources. I use it to c
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Well Metering Unit is back from Mr K raven-Smith with a new set of hoses and all my injectors checked, fitting it on Friday......... Brum Brum........
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Well Metering Unit is back from Mr K raven-Smith with a new set of hoses and all my injectors checked, fitting it on Friday......... Brum Brum........
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Well Metering Unit is bak from Mr K raven-Smith with a new set of hoses and all my injectors checked, fitting it on Friday......... Brum Brum........
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Triumph Survivors An Arena Display of Original Unrestored Triumphs and Derivatives New event for the TR Register International 7th – 9th August 2015 Sponsored by Penrite Oil, the TR Register is very pleased to announce it will be hosting a display of Triumph Survivors at the 2015 International Weekend in Malvern, 7 - 9 August. The display aims to be the largest collection of Triumph and derivative survivors ever seen at a Triumph or classic car gathering in the UK. An open invitation is extended to all TR Register members and members of other Triumph clubs who wish to display their Tr
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Hi
Whats your budget and is a LHD any good? I am coming close to a long restoration of my 1976 Red TR6 and it is very good order with all the right bits.. rear shock conversion, stage 2 unleaded head from revington, braided hoses, elec fuel pump, roll bar, bare metal respray in Audi Brilliant red etc. To much to list.
If you are interested and budgets match I will send photos.
Ge...
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