Jump to content

Nigel Triumph

TR Register Members
  • Content Count

    654
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Nigel Triumph last won the day on March 17

Nigel Triumph had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

10 Good

About Nigel Triumph

  • Birthday 07/03/1955

Profile Information

  • Location
    Leicestershire
  • Cars Owned:
    Classic Cars, especially Triumphs
    Classic Bikes, Triumph preferred of course
    Rugby - go Tigers!

Recent Profile Visitors

380 profile views
  1. I use PTFE plumber's tape on the threads of these plugs/taps, whichever are fitted. It seals fine and eases removal next time. I also fit a fibre washer under the head of the brass drain plug on the block. Belt and braces perhaps but it doesn't leak that way! Nigel
  2. In my experience, the valves are unlikely to need replacing unless the engine is very high mileage (well over 100k) or has been thrashed/poorly maintained. With a couple of engines, I've taken the cylinder head to a machine shop who has fitted hardened exhaust valve seats for unleaded, refaced the valves and recut the seats. He also sleeves worn valve guides with bronze inserts rather than replacing the guides. If you have had a head gasket failure, check the head is perfectly flat - it will likely be a few thou out and need a skim. When you reassemble, make certain you use the correct head gasket, your CR series engine should have a recessed block. I've found Triumph 6 pot motors prone to leaking oil from the distributor side of the head gasket. Using a thin coating of Wellseal along this edge of the gasket and around the rocker oil feed drilling helps, although conventional wisdom is not to use any sealant on a head gasket. Nigel
  3. I'm sure you're right, though I did check it with a straight edge before reassembly. When I first stripped this particular engine there were enough signs that I wasn't the first person to pull it apart. The previous time I stripped a Triumph 6 pot engine about 3 years ago, it was obvious that it hadn't been bodged touched since leaving the factory. That engine fitted back together easily and hasn't leaked yet. Nigel
  4. Thank you all for so many helpful replies. Bruce, I'm 99% certain it's the timing case seal that's leaking. I fitted a stainless sealing block from Jigsaw when rebuilding the engine, so the threads are good. If it's necessary to change the sealing block, for a GT6 it can only be done with the engine out, so I wasn't prepared to take the risk. I wasn't supposed to be in the garage this morning but couldn't resist. Checking the old sleeve shows its 1-1.5 thou out of round, whereas a new one is within 0.5 thou. The old sleeve also has a visible wear groove from the seal lip which can just be felt with a fingernail. I've fitted the new sleeve to the crank nose. It's worth noting that the new sleeve needed heating before it would slide onto the crank nose; I've never found that with old ones. Rotating the crank and remeasuring the gap between timing cover and crank sleeve shows a consistent difference from one side to the other of about 8 thou. Removing and refitting the cover a couple of times made no difference. It's the cover or the dowels in the block that are out of true, not the sleeve. Following Keith's suggestion I've 'adjusted' the dowel holes in the cover with a round file and I can now get it perfectly aligned. It's going to need some care when I finally tighten the cover bolts as the cover tends to be pushed away from perfect alignment by the thrust from the timing chain tensioner. Thanks again for all your input. I will post again when it's reassembled and running to let you know the outcome. Nigel
  5. Hi Waldi, Thank you for the extra info. I will use sealant around the new oil seal. The engine has just been rebuilt, including a rebore, so it's possible it is brathing a bit heavily under load while the new piston rings bed in. Removing the oil filler cap at tickover doesn't show excess pressure or misting. Nigel
  6. Thank you Waldi. I'm going to trial fit all again tomorrow. Nigel
  7. Thank you. I've got a new sleeve though it's a bit tight on the crank nose. Will try heating it before fitting tomorrow. Should have said, I already tried turning the old sleeve around and it was no better. Nigel
  8. Not strictly a TR6 engine, but a 2500 saloon engine I've recently fitted to my GT6. So to all intents it's the same. I've got a persistent oil leak from the timing cover seal. I rebuilt the engine before fitting it to the GT6, new seals and gaskets all through, not to mention other much more expensive stuff! After 250 miles the front oil seal was weeping, so when doing the first oil and filter change I took a look. There's a slight wear groove on the crank sleeve where the seal lip runs but I've seen worse. I polished the sleeve with emery and put it back with a new seal. 20 miles more and it's leaking worse than ever, so I've started stripping it out again. Before removing the timing case, I've measured the clearance between the oil seal opening on the front of the timing case and the crank sleeve. The gap varies around the circumference, 62 thou one side and 54 thou diametrically opposite. To my limited engineering brain, that means the oil seal centreline is 4 thou off from the crank centre line. I've just measured the timing case on the old 2 litre engine pulled from the GT6 and find 56 thou clearance all round; it doesn't leak either. So please could the wise ones comment? Is a 4 thou offset enough to cause a seal to leak? I think I know the answer... And what should I try next? The timing cover is dowelled in (theoretically) correct alignment, so I'm thinking of offering up up the timing cover from the old 2 litre engine. They are the same part on both engines, so fitting a known good cover and measuring clearance again should show exactly the cause of the misalignment. All thoughts and suggestions welcome. I really don't want to do this job again and am hoping for 'third time lucky'! Nigel
  9. If turning the cable from the gearbox/overdrive end makes the speedo work, clearly the cable and the instrument itself are okay. Angle drives are known to fail, so try disconnecting it from the overdrive and turning the input stub on the angle drive with the speedo cable connected. If the speedo doesn't work, clearly it's the angle drive. Less likely but possible is stripping of the teeth on the worm and pinion drive off the overdrive output shaft. The pinion can be replaced in situ but if it's the worm gear, the overdrive needs to come out. Fingers crossed it's not that serious. Nigel
  10. Sorry to say Matt, you need a recovery truck. Any attempt to drive is likely to wreck the engine. Nigel
  11. I had to do exactly this on the driver's door of my '6 a few years ago. It's not a bad job to tackle. Nigel
  12. +1. Speedy Cables did an electronic conversion on my tacho a few years ago. It works well. Nigel
  13. Good advice above. I replaced the carpets on my TR6 about 15 years ago, using a kit and under-felt from Moss. All fitted well. You will need contact adhesive for the sill carpets. I used Evostick Time Bond, as it allows for a bit of adjustment. And the carpets still look smart after many miles and a couple of soakings. Nigel
  14. Nigel Triumph

    Wow!

    The TR4 makes the E-Type below look like good value at £65k. Very ambitious pricing for a TR4! Nigel
  15. Sounds like a weak solenoid perhaps, or poor electrical connections to the solenoid. I would try cleaning all the electrical connectors in the O/D circuit first. If that doesn't help, suspect a dodgy solenoid. Nigel
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.