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Nigel Triumph

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Nigel Triumph last won the day on August 18

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About Nigel Triumph

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    Classic Cars, especially Triumphs
    Classic Bikes, Triumph preferred of course
    Rugby - go Tigers!

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  1. 40 years ago these parts were used daily, there was never time for a hydraulic cylinder to seize. However, I do remember replacing brake and clutch seals fairly often back in the day. Nigel
  2. Twin SU HS6 carbs will flow enough fuel/air for 150bhp or more. As a result, I would expect a Triumph 6 cylinder engine to require significant modification for any benefit to be found with triple SU or Stromberg carbs. And the uneven inlet pulsing through each of a 3 carb set up must have some gas flow penalty compared to twin carbs on a 6 cylinder engine. Nigel
  3. I've had NGK BUR6ET 3 electrode plugs on my TR6 and GT6 for years. Same heat range as the standard plugs but with 3 electrodes they last for years, tens of thousands of miles. Also seem to give smoother tick over and pick up from low revs. Nigel
  4. On an Android phone, go top right, 3 horizontal bar symbol, click to get side menu. Click on the mail (envelope) symbol and start a new message. Type Len1 into the address bar and Len should appear. Then send him a PM, he may be able to help. Nigel
  5. Try Len Cox, a TRR member near Gravesend in Kent. You can contact him through this forum, as Len1. He's done wonderful restorations on his own TR6 and Stag, now branching out to work on members' cars. Nigel
  6. Hi Ian, Yes, I soaked the seal in engine oil for about 20 hours before fitting. Hi Andy, I had wondered about the seal being off-centre too. On the second attempt to fix the leak, I measured the gap between the crank sleeve and timing cover aperture and found the cover was about 4 thou off centre from the crank. By filing the dowel holes slightly I trued it up to within 1 thou, but it still leaked. I'm going with Chris Witor's explanation, that on some engines stopping the timing cover seal from leaking is just plain difficult. I know there must be an engineering reason for this, but the seal was as near as dammit concentric with the crank sleeve, and a DTI showed the crank sleeve was true. In the end, I'm just glad it's fixed, even if I never got to the root cause of the multiple seal failures. Nigel
  7. Time for more news... I've been back in the garage for another - hopefully final - attempt to replace the timing cover oil seal on my 2.5 litre GT6 engine. A question raised more than once in this thread was: 'is the oil seal really leaking, or could it be coming from somewhere else nearby'. As I stripped out the fan then the crank pulley, I looked carefully for oil. There was none to be found inside the pulley or emerging between the sleeve and the crank nose. I found oil on the outside of the seal, contaminated with black which is probably rubber worn from the lip of the last oil seal. The tip of the small screwdriver in the attached photo shows where the oil was emerging. I removed the timing cover, pulled out the old seal and fitted one of Chris Witor's leather lipped seals: https://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=UKC110L Unlike modern seals, the steel periphery of the leather seal is not rubber coated, so for good measure, I put a thin smear of silicone in the timing cover recess before fitting the oil seal. After reassembly the engine was run up to operating temperature at about 1,500rpm in the garage yesterday afternoon. No leaks. This morning I've been out and covered about 20 miles, getting up to 4,000 rpm a few times. The engine remained oil tight! I can hardly express how good it feels to finally get this pain in the ar$e problem sorted. It only took five oil seal replacements including the one I fitted when first building the engine. Chris Witor's advice that the timing cover seal can be problematic, and the leather seal usually works, was spot on. For Paul and anyone else battling this problem, I can thoroughly recommend the leather seal. Maybe a bit pricey at £22.50, but I would gladly have paid double to avoid the pain of multiple replacements... Come to think of it, I already spent more on conventional seals that didn't work. Finally, thank you to all who have posted advice and encouragement here. I hope to see you at Stratford over the weekend. Nigel
  8. Hi Neil, The front engine plate is an alloy version and the sealing block on main bearing no.1 is a stainless job, both from Mark at Jigsaw. Peter, Yes, I fitted the oil thrower and it's the right way round, concave side towards the front. All other ideas gratefully received. My ambition, almost my life plan now, is to get to Stratford without dripping oil! Nigel
  9. A quick update, as I've been quiet on this thread for over a month. In fact, after four oil seal replacements (including the first when building the engine), I needed a break before enthusiasm returned and I could face trying again. The Jigsaw double lip seal mentioned above was out of stock and so I ended up having a conversation with Chris Witor, who supplied most of the components for the engine rebuild earlier this year. Chris knows the big Triumph saloons better than anyone and so he knows 'our' engines well. Chris says the timing cover oil seal often causes repeated leaks and he offers a leather-lipped seal, which he finds is more 'forgiving' and usually works where other timing cover seals have failed. The leather seal sounds like a better solution than the double lip to me. I thought the ideal of double lipped seals was to use the outer lip to exclude dust from the inner sealing lip, increasing longevity, rather than so seal where a conventional seal has failed. I'm going to fit one of his leather seals next week, and hope to arrive at the Stratford weekend behind the wheel of an oil-tight GT6. More news next week. Nigel
  10. Hi Panch, If you're replacing the sump gasket, Jigsaw Triumph have an extra thick version that's well worth considering. It's made from a traditional thick, impregnated cardboard material. I've used one recently and was impressed. Jigsaw's website seems to be in redevelopment, so best to call Mark Field on +44 (0) 1536 400 300. Nigel
  11. I've had a similar problem with coolant leaking around the water pump mounting studs, which are fitted to an aftermarket alloy impeller housing on my 2.5 litre GT6. Refitting the studs with Loctite has fixed the leak, as Mike C recommends above. Nigel
  12. Hi Riche, Welcome! The oil leak almost certainly has nothing to do with the starting problem. My advice would be to deal with the leak later. With difficulty starting, the first question is fuel or spark. I find it's easiest to check for sparks first. Carrying out the usual test with plugs removed and laying on the cylinder head while cranking the engine will show if there's a spark. If there's a strong spark then suspect a fuel problem. Lucas PI is quite different to carbs or modern EFi, so if your starting problem isn't ignition and looks like fuel, ask here and there will be lots of friendly advice. Nigel
  13. Nigel Triumph

    Best fuel

    I run my TR6 and other classics on Tesco Momentum most of the time, or Shell V-Power if I can't get the cheaper Momentum from Tesco. At 99 octane, these fuels perform well, with no pinking, and no need to retard the ignition timing. I've been using these fuels for 10 years plus and can't see any evidence of harm to my classics, including my PI equipped CP series TR6. Nigel
  14. +1 I fill all my classics with Tesco Momentum whenever I can get it. Lucas PI on my TR6 hasn't protested yet. Nigel
  15. Nigel Triumph


    Naturally Matt is correct... he owns a '6 and a 2000! If your TR6 is currently bumperless, with nothing to rechrome, it's worth considering Harington's stainless bumpers: https://groupharrington.com/product/triumph-tr6-1969-1974-early-type-bumpers/ I fitted a set to my TR6 6-7 years ago and have been impressed by the fit and durability. They're shiny (of course) and hard to tell from chrome. Enjoy your project! Nigel
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