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harlequin

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About harlequin

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    Cambridgeshire

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  1. harlequin

    Stuttering TR6

    5 is slightly hotter George
  2. harlequin

    Stuttering TR6

    Sjef As Stuart posted earlier counterfeit NGK plugs are not uncommon and are known to give problems. Genuine NGK plugs are very good and BP6ES or BP5ES is what most people use in a TR6 George
  3. harlequin

    Stuttering TR6

    Sjef For what they cost get some new plugs from a reputable dealer so as to avoid the counterfeit ones, if it cures your troubles great and if not you have at least got a spare set for the future. As an extra check have you got another car that your plugs can be tried in? George
  4. harlequin

    Stuttering TR6

    Hi Sjef I think you are on the right track with suspecting the carbs. Have a carefully look at the temperature compensators and the bypass valves plus make sure that the float chamber vents are open. Also worth checking are the hoses for the emission system if it is still fitted and if not make sure any open ports have been plugged. This may help http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-20/TR6-20.html George
  5. That's a good thing to check I found that one of the studs holding the wire wheel adapter was a bit to long and was preventing the wheel from seating correctly. This resulted in a clonk similar to a worn drive shaft or diff. George
  6. Hi Phil When I had my car re-sprayed I removed the rack as it was hardly ever used, and bought a boot bag for our trips abroad . George
  7. It's what I use on my TR6, I think I paid a fiver for it from the local scrap yard. Make sure that you get the wiring plug with some wire to make the connection to your car George
  8. Vist to a scrapyard with a pair of wire cutters, get as much wire as you can. Ford Focus switch is a good option as its mounted on the side of the passenger foot footwell away from the elements George
  9. I use screwfix nonsense heavy duty degreaser in my parts cleaner it's about £9 for 5 litre and works fine George
  10. Rodger These old cars of our can be really fickle, I have just rebuilt my TR6 gearbox after running it for over twenty years with out a problem and all on the same clutch and no alignment bolts When I was putting it all back together I was amazed to find I had been running all this time with the flywheel spigot bush missing! Which no doubt why the missing alignment bolts didn't give a problem George
  11. One of the chaps in the Cambfollowers has had his gearbox in and out 3 or 4 times over the last few months to try curing ratchet clutch on his car. It was suggested that he fit the missing alignment bolts so he slackened the bell housing bolts, fitted the 2 bolts and clutch cured. He still can't believe that these bolts made such a big difference so is getting about 100 miles on the clock before refitting the interior just in case. George
  12. John I refitted my gearbox a couple of weeks ago with the same annoying problem, two of us for best part of an hour with no luck so we gave up and had a cuppa. Went back and the bugger practically fell into place. One has to ask what is it with tea and mechanical problems? George
  13. Rich I have just rebuilt the gearbox in my TR6, I got all the parts from Overdrive Repair Services in Sheffield. They recommended the caged layshaft bearings which I found usefull as it does away with the need for a dummy lay shaft for re assembly. George
  14. Rich The selector rods have a tendency to get stuck if left unmoved for a long period, before attempting to dismantle leave it to soak in diesel oil or penetrating fluid for a week or two. Also if you don't already have one invest in a 8 point socket, I believe its 3/8" to undo the pins that hold the selector forks to the shafts George
  15. John I have managed to fit a coil into the front aluminium block, it was a bit fiddly but is doable. George
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