Jump to content

harlequin

TR Register Members
  • Content Count

    732
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About harlequin

Profile Information

  • Location
    Cambridgeshire
  • Cars Owned:
    1960 TR3A 1972 TR6

Recent Profile Visitors

1,144 profile views
  1. I have used a Facet Gold for about 5 years, I have a Malpassi regulator and an inertia cut off switch from a junk yard Ford Fiesta. I am pleased with the setup, car starts on the button and no real problems with fuel evaporation. Another plus is they are ethanol resistant. I did look at the SU pumps which don't require a regulator but cost was a bit to much George
  2. I do like the led lights in the grill bar, a cleaver bit of practical thinking and very effective. George
  3. Greg are you sure that a 165-80-R15 is not suitable for you existing spare wheel? I have them on my TR3 and the spare is only a 4 or maybe 4 1/2 J. Have you tried fitting you spare to the car? Often the nuts for alloy wheels are not suitable for steel wheels, you may need to carry standard nuts for the spare. George
  4. Having spent many years in Scandinavia where garages are often a very long way appart I would never go without a spare. I am sure the inflator kits are fine for a flat caused by a nail but a split tyre is another story, and Odds Law will definitely dictate that a ripped tyre is exactly what you will have within a month or two of leaving the spare in the garage. George
  5. I used 3mm ply for the internal panels of my campervan and the boot panel behind the fuel tank of the TR6. Its easy to work with and should last much longer then the original hardboard. George
  6. harlequin

    E10 fuel

    I use my US spec TR6 most days and have been filling up with E10 since its been on the market, I have changed all the hoses to type 14 and put ethanol mate in the tank. The only difference I have found is it seems to run better on the E10. My car still has its vapour control system fitted which I hope will minimise the amount of water vapour getting into the tank, only time will tell but I don't think we need to panic to much at the moment George
  7. Thank you Ken It was a 1st year apprentice mistake, I must have mixed up the air valves when I was swapping the needles over. I was surprised how rough it run with the mismatched valves even though they appear to be identical. I shall stop tinkering and drive it this summer with the 12s and maybe swap about next winter George
  8. I have recently overhauled the Stromberg carburettors on my early CF TR6 (CF631), and while trying to track down a rough running issue I have found that I have mixed one of the air valves up with an air valve from a spare set of carbs that came from a Stag. Although the air valves look to be identical they are obviously not. One pair has 12 cast on the inside and the other pair has 14. I took a guess and have now got the pair marked 12 fitted which has improved matters, but I am not confident that I have the correct valves. Can anyone throw some light on which pair should be fitted b
  9. Alan Chris Witor has an camshaft application chart which gives lots fo info on the various 6 cylinder Triumph cams. Download fom here https://www.chriswitor.com/technical.php George
  10. Colin Have you blanked off the by-pass valve and temperature compensators gismo? This will make things simpler and more reliable. I have also put a cap on the external float chamber vent pipes to reduce the smell of fuel in the garage, the float chambers now only vent through the port into the air filter, to make this work the little leavers on the side of the carbs have to come off. George
  11. The distributor retard unit is connected to the underside of the rear carb. I think what you have on the manifold is the connection for the anti run on valve which is mounted under the carbon canister. George
  12. TRGB have a tatty one for sale at the moment George
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.