harlequin

One of my neighbours has a 6 cylinder 4A, so yes more then possible George

I have blanked off both the by-pass and temperature compensator valves and the car runs fine. The by-pass main job is to stop popping on overrun and I have never had any sign of it since the valve was disabled. I am a fan of Strombergs they don't seem to wear as SUs do and my car is certainly more economical since I changed back to CD from SU and performance is as good if not slightly better George

I was told by a chap who rebuilds starters and dynamos etc that a lot of the problem is often worn bearings George

OK let's get this down in the gutter with rules 1 and 2 for pensioners 1. Never pass a loo and 2. Never Never trust a phart George

If at 1st you don't succeed give up and go down the pub

That's what I have done, Harley Davison mirrors have the same size and thread as the screen fixing. If you visit a Harley dealers they will have a lot of different options George

I had the speedo recalibrated to suit. My 6 with saloon gearbox has a J type overdrive and I had to turn the original Tr6 non overdrive rear mount around so that the back is now the front . The other thing that will require modification is the output flange as the holes will not match up with the propshaft, I had a new set of holes drilled between the existing to suit (8 holes in total with 4 not used) The other way is to get the propshaft modified with a saloon flange. George

I have just checked the estimate for the repair work on My TR6 It's being done by the MG Owners Club workshop at Swavesey Cambridgeshire and they charge £55 per hour plus vat, there is also about £1000 in parts and the near £1000 for paint materials. Unfortunately it was a friend who bumped into my car and his insurance is the TR Register scheme who thought the estimate was very reasonable. George (I have put a quid in the swear box for using the M word. Sorry)

Thanks again Stuart Car tinkering day tomorrow and hopefully a quieter car on the bumpy roads around here George (I really like that colour on a sidescreen car)

Thanks Stuart G

So not with the bow of the frame jammed against the board that covers the fuel tank? I will have a look tomorrow and hopefully get it right George

Thanks Stuart that's brilliant The hood sticks are down and as far back as they will go but are rattling against each other. Further investigation is needed! George

I have been looking at a couple of rattles and managed to identify the various sources and was wondering what others have done to fix them The first is the bottom of the windscreen frame rattling against the rear view mirror stalk, I'm sure that they didn't touch from the factory so why now? I have tried a spare mirror but it's exactly the same. The second is a similar thing, the rod for the scuttle vent is touching the tube for the wiper drive cable, again I'm sure that they were not like that when new. I have slipped a bit of petrol pipe on the mirror stalk and vent rod which has s

I think that I was lucky as it reads more or less spot on, the only thing is it takes a while to get there, so this thread is quite helpful and I shall be delving into the thermostat and bypass in the near future George

I have recently fitted an electronic TR4 temperature guage to my TR3A (with a few tips from Bob) I used the face, domed glass and bezel from my original but broken guage so it looks right. The only bit of modification was to the slot in the face where the needle passes through, this needed reliving a little with a Dremel to allow the needle to move freely. George