Chris Fleet

Good morning all, At the MOT this year they found a small longitudinal split along the offside front body outrigger. Not enough to fail, but something I want to sort. Would grinding out and welding be sufficient, as there seems to be no structural impact at all, or, I see Revington do a repair part that slides into the existing…..

I’ve tried out all the above, I think the clutch may need adjusting, as the input gear seems to continue spinning with the clutch depressed. Going into second then back to first does however work amazingly well. the next question I guess, is how is the clutch adjusted? I have a mechanic, so I’ll mention it to him

Great, thank you both. It makes sense now you’ve explained, I never appreciated the continued spinning when in neutral. Another one of those things, that unless you learned or have been told about it, you’d never of known!

Hi all, excuse my ignorance here. I was brought up on cars all with synchromesh. Since owning the 3A I’ve noticed it can be a bit crunchy or difficult to get the gears into first, even when apparently at a standstill. I understand that you should only ever attempt to get into first at a standstill, not on the move, at least, not without some slick double declutching skills, and even then, I think you run the risk of shearing teeth. But at a stop, should I be doing something differently? I’ve read some routinely “touch second” before attempting first, I assume this means just bit

I didn’t pull a plug to check, (I assume that’s what you mean, sorry, on a steep learning curve)

Yup, replaced a rubber o ring with a cork one . The cork ones also seem to be impregnated with rubber anyhow, so likely to fail as well. Either way, not the issue here. Just got in from an 8 mile run, and the car conked out pulling out from a junction. Wouldn’t start again, but turning over well. Pulled all the leads, including the coil, the arm etc. re seated, and eventually restarted following a few failed attempts. She stopped missing though, as was the original problem!

Clean as a whistle. I renewed the gasket and filter last year, when I needed to replace the fuel line to it.

They were NGK bought from TRGB, so hopefully legitimate! thanks everyone, DD rotor arm installed by previous owner it seems (stamped DD), which had some burn marks on the advancing corner. Filed this back slightly to clean. All cabling looks in good order, but the HT leads could do with renewing, as looking past their best. Coil looks reasonably old as well. looking to match what’s in there already, with sheathed leads, NGK straight plug caps, and side feed dizzy cap. Again, supplier suggestions? Aware of the “cheap” alternatives and would rather buy well once

Evening everyone, Tilly has developed a bit of missing when accelerating hard ish, especially in third. Probably only 500 miles on new plugs. Original dizzy and points. I was considering upgrading to electronic ignition. Would this like solve the issue, and if so, any recommendations for a plug and play conversion, without changing the distributor?

Thank you chaps, all makes sense. I’ll get them looked over specifically

Evening all our mechanic has been going through our 3A with a tooth comb since we purchased it last year. he’s resolved some excessive play in the steering and found some “wear in the steering box”, alongside the need to replace the upper suspension ball joint on one side. Having adjusted the brakes etc, he’s also finding the car is pulling to one side when OFF the gas. The ball joint is still to be replaced, but any obvious issues with the 3A I need to pass on?

Richbrook covers are brilliant, and have rated highly in many reviews. They are super breathable, so no issue with moisture as noted above https://richbrook.co.uk/product/triumph-indoor-car-covers/

Hmm….. well it seems our car may have the “later” positioning of the posts. As far as I can tell, the rear quarter panels are the originals, as there is no mention in the paperwork of them being replaced, however, I guess they could still have been done at some point.

Heard back from skinners, the long eared cover was standard up until TS41743 but was “upgraded” to remove the ears thereafter. The long ears wouldn’t have had a fixing hence the update. now, our car falls in the pre mod range (TS40935) so, stick with what was supplied or go modified!?