Phil H 4

Had mine done recently by past parts, quoted 3 weeks ( I think this is a standard) but had a mc and servo both reconditioned and back in Just over a week. Guess it depends how busy they are. Hope your lucky.

Having joined the register last year, had a new knee, salted roads and then lock down I didn't get the opportunity to attend any local meetings. Situated in the Chalfonts between Chilterns and North London Now the lock down rules have eased a little and we are able to get out and enjoy our cars, are there any members interested in a run out, at distance coffee and chat. ( Convoy limited to 6 cars ! ). Phil

I have recently fitted Racetorations rear conversion kit with adjustable shocks. Have been playing around with the settings and settled on 7-16 for my style of driving. Superb piece of kit . Phil

Thanks Waldi starting point for the morning.

Neil posted in 2018 in respect of Dead Ignition and looking back there seem to be post back to 2005 on the subject so this issue is nothing new. Everything is dead except the horn which I understand is on a separate fuse to the ignition. So started with the ignition switch, totally fried its a wonder it has started for so long. ( pic below) New Switch installed. Still nothing. Check for power. Fuses ok Power at Alternator Power both sides of Ammeter Power at Starter. No Power at Ignition switch. Looking at the wiring diagram for a 72 TR6 there isn't a alternator regulator, I can't see anything else. Given the condition of the switch, could the wiring in the loom have been effected. The visible wires outside the wrapping appear fine. Any direction greatly appreciated and why the switch has overheated in the first place. Thanks Phil

Thanks guys for the advice. Prior to changing the coil I thought i'd check the existing one as suggested. New thread... Dead Ignition. Defiantly not going anywhere lock down or not. Phil

Thanks Gareth.

Hi looking to replace the coil on my 1972 CP TR6. The car has a new loom but don't know when fitted and has Pertronix electronic ignition. How can I establish which coil to fit, Ballasted or Non-Ballasted. Many thanks Phil

Tony, Thank you for a most comprehensive diagram. You said you used two RH cowls, if one is rotated to they connect. I haven't taken apart as yet but it looks if they are male and female flanges that overlap. Phil

Thanks both for your direction. I'll do a bit more research tomorrow. Phil

Battery needed, for 72 TR6 Having read through various posts on the subject, my basic understanding is as many Cold Cranking Amps as possible and a large amp hour rating are desirable. Bosh S4029 and Varta Blue G8 have been recommended by a few members and have big numbers referring to above CCA 830 and 95 Ah, but I note they are 306mm long x 173 x 225 high The measurement between the flanges in the battery compartment are 315mm, less the J bolts. At retaining plate inside J bolts 300mm. So question is do they fit, without a hacksaw ? Phil

Thanks Brian for your advice. Phil

Thanks John, I'll get the electrical work carried out by DBJ Auto Electrical in Uxbrige, who specialise in vintage and classic car electrics another member put me on to them when I needed some work on the overdrive wiring. First job will be to see how to join a left handed and a right handed double outlet cowls as in standard form they overlap. I don't think the cowls are expensive so if that works I'll progress with the switches. Will check out Car Builder Solutions. Phil

Thanks all, particularly John for the direction to the recent 4/4a post. Have been looking at using a LHD O/D and Indicator cowl with a bit of adaption and using the O/D stalk to operate the the dip switch. Will post when functional should others be thinking of the same conversion. Regards Phil

Mark, I'll go and look at mine when the rain stops ! It's a bit of a fiddle getting the nuts on, but gets the wife out of the kitchen The switch pivots both ways. I did look at the connectors on the Moss site but the tabs are different. Guess if it doesn't work one ways its the other.