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Phil H 4

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Phil H 4 last won the day on December 14 2019

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About Phil H 4

  • Birthday 06/28/1959

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    Chalfont St Peter

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  1. Thanks Marco, The wheels haven’t gone back on yet so I might burnish back around the studs. Thanks for the advice. Phil
  2. Hi Marco, The links have only been on for about 2000 miles but have been trouble free, changed when I fitted Revington Red/Yellow springs, set up works well with Red/Blue on the front and new dampers. Lever arms keep leaking, have had rebuilt but thinking of changing to a Type 2A conversion from the TR shop. Could you expand re the paint on the brake drums. Have I done the wrong thing painting them ( used high temp paint) picture shows them before painting. I can see abrasion at the stud holes, is this where the paint may be an issue. Phil
  3. Protective suit in contained envelope, next stage of self isolation ? No just injecting the chassis. Good weather forecast for this week so hopefully wheels back on tomorrow and a bit of self isolating in the TR. Keep save all. Phil.
  4. Phil H 4


    Angus, Looking at yours...perhaps the inspiration I need. With isolation looming I guess I'll have the time ! However ....Needs Work....
  5. Quick update, Servo and master cylinder received back from Past Parts turn around under 3 weeks, good service and communication. Final cost considerably more than repro items but I'm happy to have the originals back looking and performing like new. Thanks to Steve for the loan of the pressure bleeder ( Gunson Eezibleed ) with TR6 modified cap. The longest part of the Job was a trip down to the local petrol station to put some air in a spare tyre, long queue for toilet rolls...! The bleeding was super easy and quick, flushed the system, bled and filled and adjusted the handbrake in 20 Min's. ( Car already on stands ) I can highly recommend the pressure bleeder, follow the instructions particularly re the pressure in the tyre and its plain sailing. I had purchased an inexpensive vacuum bleeder but found it to be near useless as it kept pulling air in from around the bleed nipples which had been replace. Phil
  6. Quick update, Servo and master cylinder received back from Past Parts turn around under 3 weeks, good service and communication. Final cost considerably more than repro items but I'm happy to have the origionals back looking and performing like new. Phil
  7. My 6 had what I assume to be the original wheel when I purchased it but I now have a wooden Motolita wheel fitted. The Motolita was a big birthday present from the guys at work and gratefully received. looks well but I prefer the feel of the original wheel which I have kept to be recovered when other jobs don't take priority. Wooden wheel ...leather gloves required...might be a bit warm when summer eventually arrives. Phil
  8. Having picked up on this thread whilst in the process of underbody and wheel arch treatment. I can see the baffle plates and seal currently fitted to my car are a very poor fit. The intention is to remove and see if the issue can be resolved with Stuarts method of a seam sealer prior to purchasing new parts. In respect of the void at the back of the headlight is there a baffle plate for this area, can't seem to see one in the moss catalogue or is it just reliance on a coating such as Dinitrol 4941. Phil
  9. Thank you Stuart, one down. P.S. I now have trailing arm envy
  10. Hi Marco and Jochems, Now the correct hubs are back on the vehicle, handbrake lever forward. The connection of the brake line to the brake cylinder is very tight as it is obstructed by the bump stop, flange. Could you please confirm should the brake line route behind or in front of the bump stop, and under or over the handbrake cable. In looks as if behind is correct but the brake pipe is not long enough. If you have an image of the correct route that would be great. Thanks Phil
  11. Thanks Marco, I'm glad it wasn't just me that was confused. Obvious now that the hubs had been put on the wrong side. Will re-assemble as above with lever forward as shown below. Many thanks Phil
  12. Looking at the attached. It would appear that my hubs had been put on the wrong sides. So I'll reverse and alter the hand brake lines.
  13. Prior to putting the rear assembly back together I thought I'd replace the brake shoes. Just wanted to confirm a couple of things as a little confused having looked at the existing shoes. Bit long winded but please bear with me. 1. As I understand the leading shoe, ( more metal at the top ) should be in the direction of rotation..towards the front of the car. Therefore looking at the hub leading shoe on the left, trailing shoe on the right. I ask this as Picture1( IMG 3869 ) shows the passenger hub on the left and the drivers side on the right, both with the leading shoe on the right or back edge when fitted to the car. 2. The slot in the shoe for the hand break lever is in the leading shoe, so the shoe foremost should apply pressure to the hub. Is this correct. In my case the rear shoe applies the pressure. 3. Picture 2 ( IMG 3870 )shows the orientation of the handbrake levers and picture 3 ( IMG 3871) shows the relation between the lever of the passenger side hub and the handbrake cable. It looks to me, but I could be very wrong hence asking those who know. That the hubs assemblies have been put on the wrong side of the car. To confirm this could you advise. That the leading shoe ( more metal at the top) should be towards the front of the car and applies pressure to the hub on the face nearest the front of the car when the handbrake is applied. The handbrake lever should also face forward as per the hub without the rubber glove on in picture 2. If this is the case I suppose I could swap the hubs over and re-route the handbrake cable in front of the bumps stop on the trailing arm. Thanks for your endurance.
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