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Phil H 4

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About Phil H 4

  • Birthday 06/28/1959

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  • Location
    Chalfont St Peter

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  1. Phil H 4

    Hub Studs

    So an update . Whilst the CDD kits looks the business I decided that as only 3 studs needed to be replaced I would use Helicoil and with the generosity of Roger using this alignment tool it all went very smoothly. Thanks to Roger and all who took the time to reply to my question. Phil
  2. Phil H 4

    Hub Studs

    Thanks fellas, a few options to explore. I have to address 3 studs on one side so not sure if CDD jig will work. I’ll speak to Alistair when he’s back .
  3. Phil H 4

    Hub Studs

    Thanks all. Roger I like the look of the CDD system with the jigs as I'm concerned about the alignment as Bruce points out. However I presently only have 3 studs to deal with and if I go the CDD route I would be looking at doing all 12 studs for uniformity. Prior to upgrading components in this area when finances allow, I'd like to get back on the road whilst the sun is still shining. I'd be very interested in looking at / borrowing your alignment tool to see if I feel confident using it. If you could please PM me to see when it would be convenient to pop over.
  4. Phil H 4

    Hub Studs

    Thanks Had tried rear hub studs and variations of but so many non-related articals I thought id go to the horses mouth !
  5. Phil H 4

    Hub Studs

    Hub Studs. Having removed one of the rear hubs someone has been a bit over zealous and stripped a couple of threads..glued back in ! I see Helicoils can be used , but not sure of the size, thread etc, also looked at Classic Driving Developments who have a option using larger studs and jigs to make the drilling and tapping easier. Which sound a good idea as I've not done this before and it is going to be done in situ. Are there any other options worth considering. Thanks Phil
  6. Having removed the air filter assembly I note there are 2 outlets. Referring to the Moss catalogue it shows 2 feed pipes. What is the purpose of these ? are they necessary as it appears they just move the air intake to the passenger side. Thank Phil
  7. Thank you guys really appreciate the help. Always amazed what ever the issue with the TR there’s always someone able to help. Phil
  8. I have just removed the steering lock /ignition switch as looking at the barrel someone in the past had been using a screwdriver to start the car and finally the thing is jammed. Is it possible to replace just the barrel as the unit is about £80, and is it possible to get just the barrel. Not sure how to remove the barrel but it looks as if there is a small plate on one side of the unit. Guidance as always much appreciated. Phil
  9. Phil H 4


    Thanks Paul, The plan wasn’t to improve performance so as the front sections are already stainless I’m going to just replace the rear pipes and the cross box. TR shop Chiswick have in stock and very helpful. Phil
  10. Phil H 4


    If sticking with the standard system is it worth having the rear box made with the exit pipes extended a couple of inches To get the fumes away from the rear.
  11. Phil H 4


    Appreciating this has been discussed many times ! but looking to replace the exhaust on my 6, the rear pipes and cross box are steel and now looking a bit sad. I intend to use SS and the traditional set up as existing, cross box twin pipes exit left. Question is why would you use a one pipe system into the box as opposed to 2 pipes? Phoenix appear to do both.
  12. Slightly off piste.. Having just changed the clutch fluid , bleed nipple on top, push rod in centre hole,. The clutch is very heavy, more so than it has been. I used DOT 4 Brake and Clutch Fluid. last changed about 4000 miles ago and a pressurised bleeder. Was the old fluid just past its best ? Phil
  13. A suggestion made to me was when carrying out maintenance - repairs at home only use what you have in the boot. If it's not in the boot, put it in for next time. This may lead to a tow bar being fitted and a trailer ! But it seems like a good practise. Phil
  14. I put a piece of 4" x 2" to spread the load under the front cross member jack up and support. Then use two hydraulic jacks in unison to lift the rear, locating the jacks on the chassis where it levels off by the bump stops. If I want the car higher I repeat the process, front then rear. If the cars going be up for a while I leave the wheels on and support on sleepers with chocks ( don't use concrete blocks) also 4 axle stands placed under the chassis for extra safety. Lots of different methods, this is a bit long winded but works for me. Phil
  15. Mark, If you haven't sorted a plug. I have a hex magnetic one from Revingtons. When I started to fit it was very tight when only a 3rd of the thread was in so I put the old square plug back in which works fine with a female square socket. Yours for the postage. PM me if you want it. Phil
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