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Phil H 4

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About Phil H 4

  • Birthday 06/28/1959

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  • Location
    Chalfont St Peter

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  1. Phil H 4


    Thanks Paul, The plan wasn’t to improve performance so as the front sections are already stainless I’m going to just replace the rear pipes and the cross box. TR shop Chiswick have in stock and very helpful. Phil
  2. Phil H 4


    If sticking with the standard system is it worth having the rear box made with the exit pipes extended a couple of inches To get the fumes away from the rear.
  3. Phil H 4


    Appreciating this has been discussed many times ! but looking to replace the exhaust on my 6, the rear pipes and cross box are steel and now looking a bit sad. I intend to use SS and the traditional set up as existing, cross box twin pipes exit left. Question is why would you use a one pipe system into the box as opposed to 2 pipes? Phoenix appear to do both.
  4. Slightly off piste.. Having just changed the clutch fluid , bleed nipple on top, push rod in centre hole,. The clutch is very heavy, more so than it has been. I used DOT 4 Brake and Clutch Fluid. last changed about 4000 miles ago and a pressurised bleeder. Was the old fluid just past its best ? Phil
  5. A suggestion made to me was when carrying out maintenance - repairs at home only use what you have in the boot. If it's not in the boot, put it in for next time. This may lead to a tow bar being fitted and a trailer ! But it seems like a good practise. Phil
  6. I put a piece of 4" x 2" to spread the load under the front cross member jack up and support. Then use two hydraulic jacks in unison to lift the rear, locating the jacks on the chassis where it levels off by the bump stops. If I want the car higher I repeat the process, front then rear. If the cars going be up for a while I leave the wheels on and support on sleepers with chocks ( don't use concrete blocks) also 4 axle stands placed under the chassis for extra safety. Lots of different methods, this is a bit long winded but works for me. Phil
  7. Mark, If you haven't sorted a plug. I have a hex magnetic one from Revingtons. When I started to fit it was very tight when only a 3rd of the thread was in so I put the old square plug back in which works fine with a female square socket. Yours for the postage. PM me if you want it. Phil
  8. When you have lifted the car, these are the stand placement points. Had this on file , provided by another member when i asked the question some time ago... think it was Roger. Z7 Jack Stand Points..docx
  9. Thanks Stuart, Bought spanner, removed O/D plug, cleaned re-assembled topped her up 1.7L so moving in the right direction. Sump back on tomorrow , run at weekend ...weather allowing. Thanks to all for your help. Phil
  10. Stuart, How long should you run the car to fill the OD 15 mins -1hr ? Just ensuring I don't do more harm than good. Thanks Phil
  11. Best thing I did when I got the TR was to join the register. Just thought I'd look into the drain Stuart directed me to ..and back in August 2016 the removal tool details were given. Although it's also suggested a hammer and a block of wood can be used..
  12. I tried to fill again today but no good. Thank you Stuart. I'll take a look tomorrow. Great to have access to so much experience on the forum. Phil
  13. Thanks Peter. Oh and yes ...she is level
  14. I have ordered a Std pair and a plus .005 and hope the combination will put me in the zone. Whilst the car is in the air I thought I'd replace the other fluids. It's a 72 CP with an A type OD ( 2,3,and 4th) . Having drained the gear box oil into a 4 pint milk container I was surprised that it was only half full as I understand the capacity for this type of box is 2L. Having set up a pump with 2 litres in, the box started to overflow after just 1.3 litres. My understanding is that the OD is not filled separately. Any suggestions.
  15. Having referred to the Haynes and Workshop Manual and watched a few videos, I'm I think set to check and change the Thrust washers as advised. Remember i'm a novice so be kind ! I have purchased a dial indicator with a magnetic base - pic attached. The workshop manual states the crankshaft end float is to be between 0.1524 and 0.2032mm Using the dial that measures at 0.01mm increments as I understand it the dial should read between 15 and 20 on the outer scale, with the existing thrust washers in place. If it reads more than 20 on the dial ( 0.2032) appropriate oversiz
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