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About MKTR

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  • Location
    E Sussex
  • Cars Owned:
    TR6, TR4

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  1. Hi - My car might have been an oddity, but is the metal dash not simply behind the wooden one? Mark
  2. If you have gone to the point of removing the dampers you might as well get them refurbished for long term peace of mind? Mark
  3. I wonder if one can unscrew and take out the wooden dash, and then remove the whole lock mechanism from behind the lid and replace barrel if needed?
  4. Hi Nigel, It might be too late, but now that you have the outlet pipe out you might want to consider a modification that was suggested to me when I was having fuel blockage issues: By Chris TR4A - I made the outlet pipe so it sticks up into the tank about 4 ins. The top of the pipe is flattened leaving only about 1mm gap and between the top of the pipe, and just above the tank fitting I drilled about 15 holes 4mm dia radially and staggered so there's always plenty of ways for petrol to enter the pipe. Mark
  5. MKTR

    In style

    Well I can finally see that owning a TR4 is cool and stylish - see catalogue Also gone for the modern twist of de-badging! Mark
  6. MKTR


    Hi Ron - I carry some ethanol resistant fuel hose and a fuel pump repair kit, after having so many fuel woes last year. I also have a disposable boiler suit should things get messy. Space wise - I keep the 'likely to use' stuff in a tool bag and the 'just in case' stuff around the fuel tank, behind the trim panel. Mark
  7. Hi Westy, I too had these problems on my TR4 and made some small adjustments to make it all OK: Make sure the cam is secure and not wobbling side to side on the link bar. It can catch on the choke screw. Ensure that the connecting lever to the jets does not foul the carb housing. Make sure the gap between screw and cam is set correctly Make sure the cable is pulled through properly so that fully in matches fully closed Check the cable is not too bendy so that it cannot push through any carb resistance. I changed my solid cable and that helped a lot. Mig
  8. I was imagining a solid plastic shaped item ready to take the vinyl and mounting screws i.e. no foam at all. Mark
  9. Possible match cards - https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/triumphs-list-archive.17/pale-yellow-velasquez-cream-et-al.1072377/ If you have a supplier that will do a test pot for you this might help - https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/triumphs-list-archive.17/velasquez-cream.1072284/ Otherwise maybe the TSSC might be able to assist as it is rare on TR4 Mark
  10. I am surprised that nobody has 3D printed the handle then covered it with vinyl.
  11. If you take the time to remove the petrol tank you might want to consider coating the inside with an ethanol resistant resin to help with longevity. Another simple thing to check is the filler pipe neck/hose and how well that fits to the tank and cap. An area of petrol fumes I have never solved on my TR4 is the open-ended tank vent pipe - so any ideas on that would be good. Mark
  12. Hi Roy - I presume you do not want to chance a reproduction item from the usual suppliers? Mark
  13. If you have not got a manual yet try this page 85 - https://issuu.com/carlos527/docs/manual_de_taller-triumph_tr4 Mark
  14. MKTR

    Heater Fan

    I see that there are replacement smith motors around from places like Holden and there has been previous talk about using a Morris 1000 motor, but I wonder if anyone has ever looked at 12v marine air pumps like this https://albinpumpmarine.com/product/marine-air-blower-1000-inline-165-12v/ perhaps the airflow is not enough? Mark
  15. As far as I can tell the floats are shutting off. When I had the carbs off, I checked for damaged/fuel filled floats and confirmed the needle operation. I have the air filters off the car currently and can see that the butterflies are shutting fully. I have also checked that the dash pots are falling equally. The throttle levers appear to be fine and working smoothly. I do not quite understand the logic of all of this as some are saying that I have an air leak and yet the mixture is too rich. Mark
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