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About MKTR

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  • Location
    E Sussex
  • Cars Owned:
    TR6, TR4

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  1. MKTR

    In style

    Well I can finally see that owning a TR4 is cool and stylish - see catalogue Also gone for the modern twist of de-badging! Mark
  2. MKTR


    Hi Ron - I carry some ethanol resistant fuel hose and a fuel pump repair kit, after having so many fuel woes last year. I also have a disposable boiler suit should things get messy. Space wise - I keep the 'likely to use' stuff in a tool bag and the 'just in case' stuff around the fuel tank, behind the trim panel. Mark
  3. Hi Westy, I too had these problems on my TR4 and made some small adjustments to make it all OK: Make sure the cam is secure and not wobbling side to side on the link bar. It can catch on the choke screw. Ensure that the connecting lever to the jets does not foul the carb housing. Make sure the gap between screw and cam is set correctly Make sure the cable is pulled through properly so that fully in matches fully closed Check the cable is not too bendy so that it cannot push through any carb resistance. I changed my solid cable and that helped a lot. Mig
  4. I was imagining a solid plastic shaped item ready to take the vinyl and mounting screws i.e. no foam at all. Mark
  5. Possible match cards - https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/triumphs-list-archive.17/pale-yellow-velasquez-cream-et-al.1072377/ If you have a supplier that will do a test pot for you this might help - https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/triumphs-list-archive.17/velasquez-cream.1072284/ Otherwise maybe the TSSC might be able to assist as it is rare on TR4 Mark
  6. I am surprised that nobody has 3D printed the handle then covered it with vinyl.
  7. If you take the time to remove the petrol tank you might want to consider coating the inside with an ethanol resistant resin to help with longevity. Another simple thing to check is the filler pipe neck/hose and how well that fits to the tank and cap. An area of petrol fumes I have never solved on my TR4 is the open-ended tank vent pipe - so any ideas on that would be good. Mark
  8. Hi Roy - I presume you do not want to chance a reproduction item from the usual suppliers? Mark
  9. If you have not got a manual yet try this page 85 - https://issuu.com/carlos527/docs/manual_de_taller-triumph_tr4 Mark
  10. MKTR

    Heater Fan

    I see that there are replacement smith motors around from places like Holden and there has been previous talk about using a Morris 1000 motor, but I wonder if anyone has ever looked at 12v marine air pumps like this https://albinpumpmarine.com/product/marine-air-blower-1000-inline-165-12v/ perhaps the airflow is not enough? Mark
  11. As far as I can tell the floats are shutting off. When I had the carbs off, I checked for damaged/fuel filled floats and confirmed the needle operation. I have the air filters off the car currently and can see that the butterflies are shutting fully. I have also checked that the dash pots are falling equally. The throttle levers appear to be fine and working smoothly. I do not quite understand the logic of all of this as some are saying that I have an air leak and yet the mixture is too rich. Mark
  12. Hi Rich - No not yet, only the inlet manifold on my TR4. Looks like I will have to take everything off and start gain. Should have put up with leaky gearbox and nor had these carb issues hey?
  13. Thank you all for your thoughts. I am at the end of my tether now and am stuck between a rock and a hard place - cannot resolve it myself and cannot get it to a TR or tuning specialist. I am content to strip back and build up again but it is knowing how far to go. This problem started after me putting the gearbox back in the car, having played with nothing else to do with fuel or ignition. So it seems plausible that an air leak was to blame. But now I have had the inlet manifold off, changed all the gaskets, checked floats, confirmed piston movement and dashpot oil, and tried new fuel
  14. Well the saga continues as the car is still not running correctly. Fresh fuel added just in case. Carbs balanced & oil in pots, and throttle links move OK. Colour tune shows orange at idle and then blue with some revs, which previous threads suggest is about right for a TR. There is some hesitation when I press the throttle pedal and holding revs at about 2000 rpm is a little lumpy, but nowhere as bad as it was. I took a short drive down the road and she seems to struggle to pull until there is some momentum. Is the mixture so rich that it is affecting idle and pick up or too weak
  15. Update - spent the weekend stripping out the carbs and inlet manifold to see if I could identify a problem, but there was nothing particularly obvious except for a stripped brass manifold nut. So put it all back together with some Locktite on the manifold side and sort-of got it running again - sort of. Lots of popping, banging, and stalling until I managed to get a decent balance of idle screw and mixture to let the car warm up and idle 'normally'. Now it is the simple task of balancing and mixture setting. Crossing fingers all is well again. Thank you for your pointers. Mark
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