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About MKTR

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  • Location
    E Sussex
  • Cars Owned:
    TR6, TR4

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  1. Hi Michael, It was a while ago that I did my TR4 chassis, but I seem to recall being able to block off most of the existing holes with duct tape, then simply pour warmed wax oil into one end and then doing lots of tilting and turning of the chassis. Fairly easy when a bare chassis and a warm day, but can be a bit messy when you release the tapes and drain the excess! I never got on with the hose/tube method. Mark
  2. Hi David, If others cannot help you, you may be OK looking at TR3A posts? Sorry but I do not have any of my own. Don Elliot here - https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/56322-brake-restrictor-valve/ together with https://www.tr-register.co.uk/rebuilders-diary/2015/09/0030/1960-TR3A-Restoration-Brake-Lines and another from triumphexp:
  3. Links and pictures on this thread might help - Link Others here - https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/tr4-and-tr4a-forum.7/tr4-front-brake-flex-hose.1630779/
  4. MKTR

    TR4 poly bushes

    Thanks Peter, I will stick with the Nylon and go for the extra grease rings. Mark
  5. Hi All, I recently took the plunge to fit some poly bushes to my TR4 front suspension, and all has been going relatively well with a kit from a well-known supplier. Although the kit is designed to be a complete suspension kit, some aspects seem to be lacking in my view, but I need some advice to be able to move forward: Does anyone fit poly bushes to the lower inner wishbone eyes i.e. to replace the nylon & steel bushes. There are none in the kit. I can see suppliers offering them for TR4A - 6 but not TR4, except one parts supplier who shows various poly bushes for TR2/3, wh
  6. Hi, During my last MoT I was advised to replace some cracking suspension bushes and top ball joint gaiters. I am taking the time this winter to overhaul the whole front suspension and am thinking of poly-bushes after reading the forum. I have read threads like https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/77819-front-suspension-overhaul-lower-arm-removal/&do=findComment&comment=733352 but still have some questions: 1. Do the upper and lower poly bushes need reaming or are they just a really tight push fit onto the chassis pins. 2. I presume that the original
  7. MKTR

    Speedo Bezel

    Thanks Keith & Rob, I managed to twist off the bezels and shake out a lot of the black dust/debris from between the glass and the bezels. I was reluctant to bend back the bezel tabs too much in case they sheared or the glass broke, and so I have just refitted. There is no play between the glass and bezels, so all seems well without new gasket rope seals. Maybe another time I will pluck up the courage to peen back the tabs to remove the glass and put in new seal. However, I could not find any images where people had done that without new bezels. At least I know that auto elect
  8. MKTR

    Speedo Bezel

    Hi All, Whilst putting in some instrument LEDs, I noticed that the seals between the glass and bezel on my speedo and rev counter are now black dust. I think I can get a 4mm rope seal through AES (or complete assemblies from bidding sites) but I wonder: Should I just ignore this and refit the gauges back into the dash as is? Is it possible to peen back the tabs on the chrome bezel (to get the glass out)and bend back later, or will they just snap? I see one can buy new 5" bezels if needed are curved nose pliers the way to go? Can anyone recommend a seal supplier
  9. Hi - lots of previous posts on TR4 forum like https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/32270-oe-white-dash/&do=findComment&comment=237612
  10. MKTR

    Boot lock

    Hi Graham, It is not clear if the locking mechanism is working or not, but I had an issue where the lock engaged but the handle still turned. There was an issue with the housing/bezel that the lock teeth fit into - it was not holding into the boot metal skin and the whole thing turned. Maybe worth a check? Mark
  11. I agree. I found the access to them on my TR4 to be awkward so I replaced the bolts with Hex drive bolts. I find it easier to slip a Hex drive past the dampers than a socket. Mark
  12. Hi - My car might have been an oddity, but is the metal dash not simply behind the wooden one? Mark
  13. If you have gone to the point of removing the dampers you might as well get them refurbished for long term peace of mind? Mark
  14. I wonder if one can unscrew and take out the wooden dash, and then remove the whole lock mechanism from behind the lid and replace barrel if needed?
  15. Hi Nigel, It might be too late, but now that you have the outlet pipe out you might want to consider a modification that was suggested to me when I was having fuel blockage issues: By Chris TR4A - I made the outlet pipe so it sticks up into the tank about 4 ins. The top of the pipe is flattened leaving only about 1mm gap and between the top of the pipe, and just above the tank fitting I drilled about 15 holes 4mm dia radially and staggered so there's always plenty of ways for petrol to enter the pipe. Mark
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