Jump to content


TR Register Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About MKTR

Profile Information

  • Location
    E Sussex
  • Cars Owned:
    TR6, TR4

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hi Roger, I replaced mine last year with bits from Automec which were - 5/16” pipe and ½” x 20 unf fittings with an olive. Mark
  2. Thanks All - mind now set on new tank for piece of mind. Mark
  3. Hi All, Thanks for your comments. I have pumped the tank out and removed it for inspection. The problem area is a crack in the solder around the outlet nose, and it looks like this might have been repaired before. The area seems quite flexible and so I am not convinced that a solder repair would give me piece of mind for the future. I have had to take the tank out twice before to coat it with slosh and to remove some gasket seal debris and I really want to stop doing that. Therefore I am thinking that a replacement tank is the way to go. shame as the rest of the tank appears to be fine. Regards, Mark
  4. Morning all, Last night I was doing some final checks under my TR4 following some rear axle work - thinking that my car would be back on the road again after many months. However, I noticed a fuel drip on the outlet pipe of the petrol tank and looked to tighten the connector onto the olive. However, the drip is worse and to my eye seems to stem from above the outlet hole as the protector pad is sodden with fuel. I fear that the brazing around the outlet has given way and I will need to take the tank out to check. Shame because the tank was in good condition and I had coated it with slosh type epoxy a couple of years ago. My questions to the forum are: Can the outlet be re-sealed with a DIY solution like mentioned before - superglue Is any garage likely to take on the task of brazing/soldering the outlet as a repair Is there any point in trying to source a used tank as a replacement Has anyone got any experience of the new steel petrol tanks from TR specialists Have the aluminium petrol tanks improved enough to be value for money, to fit without fettling, and be robust enough to last. If so any recommendations? Many thanks, Mark
  5. MKTR

    TR4 rear hubs

    update to my issue for any future readers: I bit the bullet and removed both axles and hubs as complete units and took them to a local engineering workshop (also a TR owner) who used 18 tonnes to press off the hubs. Then pressed on new hubs with studs already fitted (Moss), and I reversed the procedure to fit the axles back. Steep learning curve with setting the axle end-float using the recent TR Action article by Peter Cox but all went back OK I hope. Another learning point was that the new hubs are fitted with TR4A-6 studs that have a collar and so the brake drums to not fit over them without some work. I see that this is mentioned on various TR traders websites but it did mean that I had to buy a 9/16 reamer to enlarge the holes in the drums. There is a U-tube video to support this -https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1EnUwHY_c-8
  6. MKTR

    TR4 rear hubs

    Hi All, Unfortunately my TR4 rear wheel studs have worn loose and need replacing. The studs are the screw in & peen over type but some considerate owner had previously welded them also. I thought that I would simply use a four stud hub puller and either attempt to replace the studs or fit new hubs with the 4A push fit studs ready fitted. Needless to say the hub puller did not budge the hub I tried to shift, as previous threads have stated. So I have had to remove the whole half shaft and hub as one. Being an amateur when it goes to engineering I have resigned myself to take the shaft to someone to press off the hub. However, I have a few questions I would be grateful for your thought on: 1. Can I remove both shafts in one go or does one shaft need to remain in situ to keep the diff set up. 2. Is it more cost effect to have someone grind & drill out the old studs or to press off the hubs. I already have a set of new hubs just in case so can ignore that cost. 3. Can any engineering workshop do this pressing off or should I use a TR specialist. I have seen mention of TR enterprises before - but can they all do it. 4. There is mention of drilling out the stud holes to remove the thread and fit the 4A-6 studs - what size are these enlarge to 5. Should I just take the whole diff axle out and send it away for a complete overhaul including seals, bearings and end-float check? If so any recommendations. Thank you Mark
  7. MKTR

    TR4 Fuel pump?

    Hi Mark, I see that there is a lot of discussion about replica pumps, although it is not clear if your 'failed' pump is one of these. I wonder if it is an issue with the pump diaphragm instead. I had an orignal pump that gave the same symptoms as you listed but it would be fine again once the car had cooled down. It appeared to be ethanol related and the rubber material had gone 'floppy' (there is probably a non-technical term), which was OK on start up but would not give enough pressure after a few miles - even with manual priming. A change of diaphragm to ethanol resistant material cured it. Just a thought. MF
  8. MKTR

    servo take off

    Hi Ron, is this the same issue - https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/66181-servo/?hl=servo
  9. Hi David - previous discussions highlight this site for info on cut n shut - http://www.brabazon.org/home/tr4/rhd_conversion/dash Mark
  10. MKTR

    Fuel Woes Return

    Good thought. I hope I did use the ethanol resistant variety as that was what I had issues with originally. Problem is where did I put the receipt!! Mark
  11. Hi Guys, In 2015 I posted a problem regarding fuel starvation and multiple breakdowns in my TR4, which all seemed to be related to ethanol and rubber perishing. As part of the remedial measures I had the petrol tank out & flushed it, then sealed it with 'slosh', I fitted ethanol resistant fuel lines and fitted a new petrol pump diaphragm. All has been well with fuel since 2015 until this weekend. I broke down twice on a long journey with the same issue - complete engine stop. Rubbery lumps in fuel pump bowl and something evidently blocking the tank outlet as no fuel was flowing when the pump inlet was disconnected. I remembered the advice to blow back up the lines from pump to tank; and fuel flowed again. The greyish lumps in the fuel bowl look like sealant/silicone when out of petrol but like a jelly fish when suspended in petrol. Before I have the petrol tank out again I wonder if anyone can suggest where this substance might have come from. Tank looks clear of rust, paint flakes, crud etc and I do not recall using any sealant on the pipes or the sender unit. Also, has anyone ever managed to come up with a cunning way of retro-fitting a wire mesh over the tank outlet to trap any roaming bits and avoid complete pipe blockage? Many thanks, Mark
  12. MKTR

    Radiator Sludge

    Hi all, Thank you for all your contributions and associated thoughts on waste disposal. Also apologies to some of you for my lack of clarity and absence of photos. UPDATE: I purchased and used a test kit for exhaust gases in the radiator and the result did not indicate a problem. I drained the engine oil and there was no obvious sign of water. It was time for an oil change anyway! So I drained the water system, re-filled and used radiator flushing agent. A fair bit of rusty water but nothing too dark or sludgy to concern me Flushed with fresh water and re-filled with de-ionised water and blue antifreeze. Now time to get some miles in and see if the problem recurs crossing fingers but I have some K-seal ready to go if needed. Mark
  13. MKTR

    Radiator Sludge

    Thanks all, That is my weekend sorted then. Mark
  14. Hi All, Great weekend for TR4 use. However, when checking water levels I noticed a light brown froth/sludge on the underside of my radiator cap. I cleaned it off but after another day of car use some has returned. Some threads suggest this might be down to some anti-freeze types especially if mixed. Other guidance indicates that the head gasket has gone - but I am not noticing any overheating or oil loss so hope it is not. That said I do have an electric fan fitted so maybe I would not notice. I wonder about the right course of action: Do nothing and do not worry Drain the radiator and start again with coolant Get the water tested for exhaust gases Check the head torques Get it booked into a garage for a new gasket Hope you can advise. many thanks, Mark
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.