Mk2 Chopper

Certainly makes for some interesting reading!

I've just been on the phone to Alan, and he thinks he'll be able to sort one out, thanks for reminding me of his details Gareth

Thought I'd just bring this one back up, my needle bounces around at 40 or above, and also the trip doesn't work. Upon checking the speedometer, I can see the trip worm driven gear has seized and then stripped which is my the trip doesn't rotate, I'm hoping that removing it will steady my needle too. It seems a shame to not be able to replace that gear/shaft to restore the trip counter, I guess I could look out for a repairs only speedometer. Gareth

Same thing, I got an MOT, but as I had little paperwork, I had to drive it to the nearest dvla office so they could see the chassis numbers I'd filled in and the car themselves, before they gave me the number plate. Gareth

Cold weather and fitting rubber doesn't always work, dunk the rubber in a bucket of warm to hot water and let it become more pliable before fitting.

Thanks for letting us know, I'm in the South East and not that far from Edenbridge, when I eventually get the gauges out to refurb the bezels, at least I know somewhere local if they need anything else (my needle bounces above 40 and the trip is stuck).

This is what you need an electrical connector, it's from the highest amp electrical block connector with the outer plastic removed, might need to just open it up a little with a drill.

Get a cheap multimeter and check if the power is coming from the battery and then at the starter motor and so on

You can get modern versions of 165's with up to date tread. You would drive any car within the limits of its specification, no air bags, abs etc on these cars, putting the original size tyres is the same thing and could be said to make it drive and handle as the manufacturer intended. Gareth

I'm going back to 165's on the steels this spring, my choice is slightly towards the aesthetics, but to be fair I don't really drive it super fast, so won't miss the wider tyre for that reason. I feel many TR's look over tyred and I want to recreate the classic looks of the car, good luck with your choice. Gareth

That's my plan to tax online and see if it's automatically MOT exempt.

Nice time at Brooklands today, parked on the banking.

Yes I try and use the 6 at least a couple of times a month, been out a few times so far in December with another trip out on the 1st planned. At last we're having some stable dry weather, enjoy. Gareth

This double flare pipe end wasn't known to be used on a TR6 by a few classic brake pipe maker's that I tried, probably not an issue if you buy a brake line kit though and not just the individual pipe. I bought one from Robsport and was careful to explain what I needed as far as the flares and the correct one turned up. Additionally the adjuster for the rear drum is at the bottom opposite the wheel cylinder

Paul, my car had no rear snaps, looked like they had pulled through as the holes were there, so in order to replace I had to undo the rear plate which is bolted down with I think five bolts just below the rear window, once this is off its easy to get to. You need small washers to stop the rivet pulling through and I had to fit longer ones at the rear sides as there is quite a bit of material in that area. It's quite easy and satisfying to sort. Good luck with it. Gareth