Mk2 Chopper

The heat is caused by the pump, and as most of the fuel is returned via the prv just as its been heated through the pump, it makes sense to cool it before it returns to the tank. Additionally the pump is gravity fed, so fitting the cooler before the pump may interfere with the flow. Gareth

Is the enrichment (choke)... if its a P.I. correctly set and fully shut when warmed up? Does the pump in the boot change tone when it's about to stall? Gareth

It's similar to what I suggested above in the thread. Gareth

Should you not be seeing a crescent shape in no.6 on the metering unit? Can't remember which side it needs to be though. Gareth

I had thought about this for a while, running the PRV return pipe alongside the normal pipe going to the MU, before it U turns and goes back to the tank. My thinking was that the fuel would have a chance to cool before being dumped back into the tank. Gareth

Welcome to TR ownership. Yes the stalk turns the lights on, it's a two position switch, 1st position sidelights, second position headlights. The switch by the tunnel is the dip switch between main beam and dipped. More than likely a dodgy connection, so follow the advice above and you should be working before long. Gareth

That looks really good, be interesting to see if there is an improvement. I took my 6 out today, and it really enjoyed that cold dense air, even the idle was up... coincidence? Gareth

I think original were rubber, new plastic, had to carefully shave my new one down to fit correctly. Gareth

Also, did I read in a recent TR Action, that if your earth cable breaks between the engine and gearbox, it could use the braided fuel line and cause it to heat up, possibly not a great idea when there is fuel inside it. Gareth

Hi Mike, Do you leave the ignition on for a little while to get the pump pressure up first (don't leave it too long if you are on electronic ignition)? You might find you need anywhere from fully out to half out on the 'choke', so maybe try different positions. The misfire might be an injector not opening as it needs bleeding. Try to separate the injector lines and then check for pulsing in each when it's running to see which may not be working. Gareth

I guess the banjo bolts prevent it from moving? Glad you got it working and can hopefully get it back to fully safe real soon. Gareth

I'm curious, but how did going through a flood damage the pipe? I've heard good things about Pirtek, as recommended above, they should sort you out. Gareth

Just got to find what works for your own set up, I also always press the throttle, pull the 'choke' and release the throttle again so the fast idle cam is set and its usually pretty good. Gareth

The throttle plates should be fully closed (not tight scraping the throttle body though), when warm and you would set the idle with the bypass screw. So do you have a fast running (choke) set up for both the throttle linkage and MU like standard? If you do, you set the cam when warm to a certain amount of revs, something like 2,500 revs, don't quote me, so when it's cold it would be around 900 to a 1000 and the throttle plates would obviously be open, when cold and shut when warm. Gareth

This is the most recent thread Dell. Gareth