Mk2 Chopper

You sure it wasn't for a HOT BACON ROLL???

I've just installed these Bosch WR78 four electrode plugs: Engine seems to run just the same to me no better no worse than with the NGK's. Gareth

Just quoted the bits I wanted to reply to above. No I don't carry spare points. I think that's the 'point' to me, having points means you check and change them regularly, not weeks or months but say annually at service time, so they shouldn't let you down (good quality spares not with standing), and encourages you to spend time on routine maintenence. The electronic are fit and forget until they let you down, meaning people carry spare - good old reliable points/condenser for that inevitable day. I wanted to say to the OP I'm using points and there is nothing wrong with using them. Gareth

If you check the coil it will be approx 1.5ohm instead of 3 ohms if it's ballast resisted. Normally early cars don't have it. If you switch ignition to on you should see 8v on ballasted cars not 12v at the coil. Gareth

Still 2020

I run points and condenser, good to have something to make sure you service/maintain the car. Makes me laugh when people always carry points and condenser after fitting electronic ignition. Gareth

An update, after adjusting the door striker plate as mentioned above, it seems to have done the trick, had a good run out with the roof down and no longer noticeable. Thanks for the advice. Gareth

I think it's borderline with the 185's, I agree they fill the arches more but they look a little too fat to me. They used to do a 185/70 15 size and that's near enough the same diameter as the 165/80. Try and look at pictures of cars with them, as has been said US cars had them with redlines so there should be plenty of pictures of them. Good luck with choosing them, and yes I'd buy the Retro Classics again. Gareth

Ah that's what I thought, I've had a look and found I could close the door gap up a little by moving the striker in as far as it will go, and the lip you mentioned was a little bent in towards the interior side, so now with those two things it's a tighter fit, pretty similar to the passenger side now, you can still push the door inwards a little (but using more pressure) and there is still a knock as you let go as the door catch goes back on it's stop, again very similar to the other side which doesn't make a noise, so hopefully tightening it up will have sorted it. I test drive over the weekend. Also at the bottom of the door latch/lock below where the pin locates in the hole there seems to be a spring you can see, I wonder what that does? Gareth

Thanks Stuart, I'm going to have a good look into it, and compare it to my 'good' door and see if the seal lip is indeed too far away from the door, maybe a previous owner did it to help the door shut better when the seals were new? Do the flap type still put pressure on the door like the tube type? Gareth

Thanks Dave, I had found reference of these from my research on the subject, but I can't see how it would stop my door moving, it's as though when I'm on the second click of the latch you can push the door a bit more against the seal and then let go it bangs back on the latch. So if I could stop the door moving the noise should stop, I can't see the door seals being strong enough to push against the door, they clearly aren't now, would new or the correct ones make a difference, I can't see it. I feel like I need to add some rubber to the striker plate, with enough squish to allow the door to shut but hard enough to allow no movement. Gareth

It certainly feels like it should push harder against the seal to stop any movement. Could buy a new seal but it might not be any different. I had two thoughts, maybe remove the striker plate and try it over the catch/lock mechanism to see how well it engages with it and what movement there is, and also make up a rubber buffer to temporarily see if that cures it. I'll certainty check my flange to see if it's correct and measure my seal against your measurement and see what's going on there. Thanks Gareth

OK I drove the car and what I've found is: the door sits in the door opening in the right position. The door lock is latched on the second click. When the door is shut it's possible to hold the door even closer and then let go and it springs back and makes a knock. The passenger side is hard against the door frame so doesn't move, I can't see how moving the striker plate will help as the door is already sitting right. The furlex stuff is in place too. Gareth

£30, I'd never have known it was a diy job, looks great. Gareth

I bought a new chrome cover for my housing, so I'm sure someone will need it. Gareth