Mk2 Chopper

The small amount of toe in is set so that when you are moving the wheels become parallel Gareth

Do you have excessive wear in the clevis pins and holes they go in, and what about the pedal bushes, early cars had plastic and completely wear away, but can be replaced with the later metal bushes. Gareth

I think once you pump the clutch pedal any free play is taken up, which is why people say there is no point using a longer or adjustable pushrod as it will still only move the same amount. So you may find it all works just fine with the correct length rod? Gareth

Same as my CP, I think it's good to see temp and oil pressure at a glance. Gareth

You sure you were not touching against another injector pipe when checking for pulsing? Have you tried bleeding the injector in question? Gareth

Some nice pictures there, I only saw the woods and bluebells from the train, nice views though Gareth

I was one of them, had a great convoy to Hollycombe with two '4A's in front of my '6 and two 3A's sandwiching another '6 behind, roof down despite the temperature (it would have been rude not to) Gareth

Thanks that's how it is now, I think the plastic jammed cause of the loose knurled nut. Gareth

Thanks for the info Keith, when I pulled the cable out there was lubrication a little further down, but I agree the plastic part could do with some. I had no problem re inserting the cable back down the outer housing, so I think your explanation of how it moved makes sense, I foundthe knurled part wasn't even finger tight so that may have caused it to jam against the plastic part. Cheers Gareth

My thinking was to leave the outer part and fit a new inner, I think the two lengths are something to do with if you have an over drive fitted or not. Anyhow I've managed to force the plastic part down with some effort so I'll see how that goes and keep an eye on a replacement. Gareth

Hi guys, Hope those of you who got out for drive it day yesterday had fun. On the way home my speedometer stopped, I've just had a chance to look at it and pulled the speedo cable and it appears to me that the plastic bush has moved so that the square end can't engage with the speedo drive (I can't move this bush by hand). It looks chamfered like the opposite end and I can tell there isn't a snapped off end still in the speedo. Am I correct and if I need to order a new one can I just measure the inner cable length? Gareth

Amazes me the skill taken to do the bodge in the first place. At least you'll know it's done properly this time!

James Paddocks gotta be better than the one you have! Shockingly bad repair with bondo. Gareth

I hear your pain and frustration. There's two things you can do, either leave it till something breaks and then you'll know for sure or get a second opinion. It sounds like a great idea putting it on the lift and then listening to all the moving parts to help track it down, I think you can hire some time at a few places around the country to do that. Good luck with your next move, but while you're in the mood to torch it, leave the problem for a while and regroup. Gareth

I had the same issue, new MC and difficulty bleeding front brakes and initial tests showed brakes locking up. The new MC wasn't set up correctly with the old servo push rod and once the MC was undone a tad it released the brakes, I reset the clearance of the push rod and never had another issue. Gareth