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  1. Rich, Don't despair! Assuming you have, or have fashioned a clip supporting tool, slacken off forward and rear upper glass guides to give a little room. Then the trick is to place a clip on the tool, then pull up onto the door flange, and while supporting the clip by the tool push the inner seal down into the clip. Hopefully you have a few spare clips in case you drop them inside. At least it’s a nice clean job, and you are not underneath!
  2. With PU bushes, tightening on the ground should not be necessary as the bush rotates on the spacer, unlike rubber.
  3. Jochem, If you wish, why not open the later Caliper holes up and use 1/4” pins.
  4. I just sliced in the original bulb holders and pigtails. Also better quality.
  5. John, There are differences in reduction ratio. The ID Plate number will start with (I think, others may confirm) Triumph TR6 - 25; Volvo - 27; Healy - 28.
  6. With reference to the above pic, my lower flap has five female poppers that attach to the retracted hoop when stowed. The side straps are higher up and attach to the upper B Post. Very neat and taught. Is this the original design?
  7. Well Dave, Maybe your suspension had not been maintained, and maybe off the road for years? In my case I don’t know if they were the original trunnions bushings (going on 50 years) or replacements but the sleeves were chromed but worn. I had no problem removing the trunnions bolts. I do have reservations about the water seal washers and O rings, particularly the aftermarket ones that are round instead of square making assembly almost impossible. So I would be willing to try poly without the seals, preferably if I could obtain, or knock up, stainless sleeves. Suspension on our cars needs regular maintenance, and not just waiting for something to go wrong.
  8. I think Hawk only make pads for the 1/4” pins. Any issues with opening up TR6 calipers from 3/16” to 1/4”?
  9. I had to replace a loom as a three foot length was fried behind the dash. Very lucky it did not take out the car. Fusing the brown wire to the ignition switch has also been a consideration. In a perfect world positioning the cables so that mechanical damage can be avoided would have merit. However, what of the risks of: Aged insulation, someone been in there before (very likely) and rodent damage? I never did find the cause of the short due to the extensive damage. The core itself acted as a fuse, blew, and cut of power from the battery. A fuse close to the battery should prevent this.... However, while I was testing my new installation thought I would be clever and place a temporary 15amp fuse in the supply to the switch. Well, got smoke, and had to replace the white wire to the voltmeter. Luckily I disconnected the supply before more damage.
  10. Jochen, Maybe you still have the grill out? If so, it makes it much easier to access the hinge belts and the forward bonnet can be aligned with it shut.
  11. Seems to me that there was nothing wrong with the original design which used nylon bushes, water shield washers/o rings AND chromed sleeves. Anyone know if the chromed sleeves are available? Whatever bushes are installed I would think that at least a stainless sleeve would be prudent rather than the bush rotating on a corroded carbon steel sleeve. So are there any decent kits out there?
  12. Use 1 inch long Allen screws. Just grind the head diameter down a bit to fit in the holes.
  13. For a while now many on the North American continent have been aware of this dangerous fuse situation. I assumed that Europe just had DIN rated fuses like the original Lucas ones. But you now have SAE rated as well? Maybe some importers are bringing the wrong stuff in. In my case after a full rewire due to a meltdown at the back of the dash my car runs just fine on North American fuses with the following ratings (rather than 35 something’s) Red fuse 10 amp Purple 15 amp Green 15 amp Spare 15 amp.
  14. Hi Graeme, Just down the road from you. I often read that the suspension should be loaded before torquing up, but that was for rubber bushes that flex, but poly rotates does it not? Don’t wish to get into other issues concerning corrosion ot the steel spacer and wishbone surfaces at this point, but will be interested to hear more on the fully loaded debate.
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