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Will

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  1. Tim, you were lucky. Some of the repair kits are incorrectly toleranced and if correctly torqued the joint will lock. When I checked with the supplier he said everyone just backs the nut off until the the joint is free. This is not the right answer! Those bad kits can be rescued with appropriate shims but suppliers generally just carry on as usual.
  2. Bit of a peeve of mine, but having witnessed horrible burns when a apprentices steel watch band grounded out between a positive battery terminal and the battery strap. But I suppose you could also practice your welding skills with an errant spanner. I find it interesting that seven posters have said to hell with originally and use a battery with the terminals at the back. Makes sense. Three posters should at least insulate the positive terminals. Always good to see other owners maintenance and handiwork.
  3. Rich, For a bit of work you can just use the amber/clear lenses with the existing housing, There is a slot in the lens for which you can fashion a divider between the white and amber out of aly or plastic. Then obtain a couple of bayonet bulb holders suitable for insertion into a drilled hole in the rear of the white light.
  4. Maybe a consideration to increase torsional stiffness, and possibly reduce the dreaded derrière droop: An owner recently mentioned that he had braced between the rear spring tower crossmember and the trailing arm outriggers. (Some also brace between the same crossmember and the diff rear crossmember but not sure if he did this). The forward brace is at roughly 45 degrees, is inboard of the inner wheel arches, and required boxing in the rear shelf front panel sheet metal around the braces. It did not seem to limit seat adjustment, but if taller drivers have managed to get their seat back
  5. Yep, the LH hose that screws into the 3-way block is sealed by means of a copper washer.
  6. Rich, Don't despair! Assuming you have, or have fashioned a clip supporting tool, slacken off forward and rear upper glass guides to give a little room. Then the trick is to place a clip on the tool, then pull up onto the door flange, and while supporting the clip by the tool push the inner seal down into the clip. Hopefully you have a few spare clips in case you drop them inside. At least it’s a nice clean job, and you are not underneath!
  7. With PU bushes, tightening on the ground should not be necessary as the bush rotates on the spacer, unlike rubber.
  8. Jochem, If you wish, why not open the later Caliper holes up and use 1/4” pins.
  9. I just sliced in the original bulb holders and pigtails. Also better quality.
  10. John, There are differences in reduction ratio. The ID Plate number will start with (I think, others may confirm) Triumph TR6 - 25; Volvo - 27; Healy - 28.
  11. With reference to the above pic, my lower flap has five female poppers that attach to the retracted hoop when stowed. The side straps are higher up and attach to the upper B Post. Very neat and taught. Is this the original design?
  12. Well Dave, Maybe your suspension had not been maintained, and maybe off the road for years? In my case I don’t know if they were the original trunnions bushings (going on 50 years) or replacements but the sleeves were chromed but worn. I had no problem removing the trunnions bolts. I do have reservations about the water seal washers and O rings, particularly the aftermarket ones that are round instead of square making assembly almost impossible. So I would be willing to try poly without the seals, preferably if I could obtain, or knock up, stainless sleeves. Suspe
  13. I think Hawk only make pads for the 1/4” pins. Any issues with opening up TR6 calipers from 3/16” to 1/4”?
  14. I had to replace a loom as a three foot length was fried behind the dash. Very lucky it did not take out the car. Fusing the brown wire to the ignition switch has also been a consideration. In a perfect world positioning the cables so that mechanical damage can be avoided would have merit. However, what of the risks of: Aged insulation, someone been in there before (very likely) and rodent damage? I never did find the cause of the short due to the extensive damage. The core itself acted as a fuse, blew, and cut of power from the battery. A fuse close to the battery s
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