Mk2 Chopper

Looking good and nice tip about the double sided tape. Were they missing from your doors? Gareth

So that's where I've been going wrong!

Thanks again Stuart, that gives me somewhere to gave a closer look, particularly the a post ones. Gareth

Thanks Stuart, I don't remember seeing anything like that under there, so I'll have to take another look, I'm guessing I'll need to remove the fresh air pipes to gain some access? Gareth

I've repainted my frame...well in fact it had been left in body colour by previous owner(s), and no its not a '69 model year. But I also need to adjust my drivers side window gap, closer at the top. I'm going to try the regulator adjustment, but a while ago I tried to locate the bolts holding the screen pillar, but I couldn't make them out, any clues how to find them? Gareth

Really good work guys, looking forward to seeing the finished cars...however long it eventually takes Gareth

Good work, nothing better than figuring something out and sorting it yourself Gareth

Good progress, sounds like you're on the home front now. And at least you're becoming even better equated with your '6 after delving into its nervous system . Gareth

That's great, the circuit is good from the indicator switch. I would check now that you have 12v at the indicator relay. Gareth

Good news on the hazards! Having never had the light switch apart I can only guess that the hook spring provides a tension as you pull the lever. The small coil spring would probably be mounted under a contact to make sure when you switch the contacts are under some pressure, hope that gives you some clues as to where they belong? Gareth

Can you connect a 12v live to the red wire (although the wiring diagram shows it as green/white) and then the red/green wire that would connect to the indicator switch? This would turn on the right and left side indicator bulbs if the ground is good at the bulbs. Gareth

Hi Rich, Have you confirmed you have 12v at the relay on the green wire? This circuit also powers the brake lights and two gauges (temperature and fuel) and the heater fan, so if none of those work you may have a fuse issue. If you do have 12v on the green, then it goes through the indicator relay and passes onto the connection at the hazard switch, one side (pin3) and it comes back out of pin4. It then goes to the middle wire of the indicator switch, passes to either wire on that and then down to the front or rear bulbs and then to earth/ground. If for whatever reason it is unable to find a path to ground, nothing will happen. So go to each point where the wire arrives and goes onto the next part of the circuit to see where the power stops, if you have a test light you can ground each area until you find the break. Gareth

I've never removed the indicator switch, have you looked on the Moss site for the diagram showing it, might give you a clue how it fits unless someone else comes along who can help. Gareth

Sounds like it should work, let us know if you manage to get it all sorted. Cheers Gareth

I've just noticed your subject says 6 pin hazard with four pin wiring, the difference being the four pin has the addition of a relay. Do you have this relay and all the wires that relate to the four pin set up and want to use the 6 pin hazard switch? For just the indicators to work, you'll notice on the four pin diagram you have a green wire that goes to the indicator relay after which becomes light green and brown (LG/N) and the connects to the four pin hazard switch and then on to the indicator switch. So if you can find these LG/N connectors and join them together you'll complete that part of the circuit for the indicators. If you want to connect them via the six pin hazard you'll need to connect them to pins 7 & 8. If you have the purple and purple and red cables the connect them to pins 1 and 2 of the 6 pin hazard switch...this is assuming you have the four pin wiring and extra relay. Gareth

So the hazards have there own flasher unit, I'd first concentrate on getting the indicators working first. If you have tested the indicator flasher off the car and found it working then the next step is to see that the wire from the flasher goes to the indicator switch and can then pass to the bulbs, ultimately being earthed at the bulb end. If you get a super cheap multimeter you can test for 12v at each stage and see where it stops. Gareth

Are any wires connected to the six pin switch? If you indicators work, you should either be able to find the said wires or replicate them using the wiring diagram. I imagine the difference between the diagrams is one is early the other late? The six pin being the early style? Gareth

Welcome to the club and TR ownership. As you mentioned the car has been converted to RHD and was listed as having 185's, then it's likely the final drive is different to the UK cars and is the reason why 185's were fitted instead of the 165's that UK cars would have used. It is possible to get 185's, search for 185/80 x 15 tyres, some are really expensive, but I think there are other alternatives. The other option is to covert the diff to UK spec (this may have already been done if it's running 195 tyres - what is the ratio of those tyre's, 65?). Gareth

Obviously you can't unless you take it to a garage, the bizarre MOT above didn't even bother. For sure you can detect a side to side imbalance but less so a front to rear, but you can check all the components are working, adjusted, not leaking, seized etc. Let's not forget the test is one moment in the year, anything can happen after, especially if the car isn't maintained, good for the type of people that wait for a problem to occur. If you have or do preventative maintenance, then you'll know the state of important components like the braking system. But for sure by all means get it tested and to have a second opinion, but don't rely on the MOT to tell you the full story. Gareth

After checking and if you are getting a good cone spray, I'd be changing that plug. Gareth

That's looking great, on my rear panel where it sits next to the wings on the flat part where the lights go it's level below the light but is slightly in further in above the light both sides, how does yours look there? Gareth

The small amount of toe in is set so that when you are moving the wheels become parallel Gareth

Do you have excessive wear in the clevis pins and holes they go in, and what about the pedal bushes, early cars had plastic and completely wear away, but can be replaced with the later metal bushes. Gareth

I think once you pump the clutch pedal any free play is taken up, which is why people say there is no point using a longer or adjustable pushrod as it will still only move the same amount. So you may find it all works just fine with the correct length rod? Gareth

Same as my CP, I think it's good to see temp and oil pressure at a glance. Gareth