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Mk2 Chopper

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Everything posted by Mk2 Chopper

  1. Not going to offer any help, only to say I'm in a similar situation, really not looking forward to the wet legs Friday too! Gareth
  2. I've done this to mine, still have the bi metallic relay, and it just flashes a little quicker than before, but as it was slow before adding the extra bulb, it's acceptable. Gareth
  3. Mk2 Chopper

    TR6 SLJ 922H

    That bootlid!
  4. Thinking about it the first symptom was I couldn't bleed the brakes, when I undid the MC to try and figure it out it obviously released the push rod and allowed fluid through and bled just fine. A couple of test drives and it worked but then one time it locked on, once I'd realised that undoing the MC cured it I knew what the cause was. I actually put a dab of paint on the rod and kept adjusting and refitting the MC until there was the lightest hint of paint visable on the inside of the MC so I had my 'air' gap between them. Gareth
  5. Had exactly the same issue although it showed up immediately, and resolved the same way. I made sure I carried a spanner around (as the pressure would release upon loosening the MC from servo when I first discovered the issue), just in case, but since the servo rod adjustment it's been fine. It's not good that you have to find out the hard way though. Gareth
  6. Thanks for the update, good to know you discovered the reason(s). Gareth
  7. My '70 CP had been fitted with US spec red lenses and had been connected up via the rear lights red wire to be a side marker. I prefer amber but decided to keep the bulbs in and put them on the indicator wires, if you have an original bi metallic relay, the indicators will flash at a faster rate, before they were slightly slower than a modern car, now just slightly faster than. Gareth
  8. The flexi hose is a good place to look, as internally it might not be allowing the pressure to release as well as not allowing the full strength to go to the piston. If in doubt I'd replace both hoses and see where that gets you, and then the calipers if no improvement. Gareth
  9. If you've cleaned it up and got the pads free, have you taken it for a test drive? Might be worth getting someone to press the pedal and see if the wheel locks up on both sides while it's jacked up. Also the pads could be contaminated, check the surface carefully or perhaps glazed. Gareth
  10. Probably not with fingers, a spanner/bar yes. Maybe compare sides so you can feel how easy it is one side compared to the other. Make sure the pads can move when fitted too and are not binding. Refit and use the pedal to push the pistons back onto the disk, you may need to work the piston in and out a few times. Did you notice the right side disk was either rusty (little to no contact) or blue (where it's been binding and got hot)? Gareth
  11. Sounds like a seized caliper on the right side, all braking effort is happening on the left side causing the car to pull to that side. I'd follow the above advice and remove the pads and see if you can push the pistons back in. Gareth
  12. Top work, thanks for sharing, really enjoying the updates! Gareth
  13. I'm trying to work out what if any exhaust fittings I'll need, it seems all the standard stuff has been removed. TR Shop are quoting me £62.59 for a fitting kit that will do this system. Gareth
  14. Thanks Jochem, good to know they are supplying the long pipe as two parts now. Colin I'd love to see some pictures, thank you. And a second person saying they come in two pieces, good news. Not going for the manifold this time, but want the choice at a later time. Cheers guys Gareth
  15. Hi, After doing some searches here regarding fitting a Phoenix Super Sports Exhaust, I've found a few mentions of poor fitment of the single tube from manifold to rear box, and wanted some current observations from those that have fitted this exhaust. I am running what appears to be a Rimmers twin box system at the moment, and really want to have a more standard look, but also like the idea of the upgrade in terms of the original exhaust, with bigger bore and stainless. Many thanks Gareth
  16. Looking good and nice tip about the double sided tape. Were they missing from your doors? Gareth
  17. So that's where I've been going wrong!
  18. Thanks again Stuart, that gives me somewhere to gave a closer look, particularly the a post ones. Gareth
  19. Thanks Stuart, I don't remember seeing anything like that under there, so I'll have to take another look, I'm guessing I'll need to remove the fresh air pipes to gain some access? Gareth
  20. I've repainted my frame...well in fact it had been left in body colour by previous owner(s), and no its not a '69 model year. But I also need to adjust my drivers side window gap, closer at the top. I'm going to try the regulator adjustment, but a while ago I tried to locate the bolts holding the screen pillar, but I couldn't make them out, any clues how to find them? Gareth
  21. Really good work guys, looking forward to seeing the finished cars...however long it eventually takes Gareth
  22. Good work, nothing better than figuring something out and sorting it yourself Gareth
  23. Good progress, sounds like you're on the home front now. And at least you're becoming even better equated with your '6 after delving into its nervous system . Gareth
  24. That's great, the circuit is good from the indicator switch. I would check now that you have 12v at the indicator relay. Gareth
  25. Good news on the hazards! Having never had the light switch apart I can only guess that the hook spring provides a tension as you pull the lever. The small coil spring would probably be mounted under a contact to make sure when you switch the contacts are under some pressure, hope that gives you some clues as to where they belong? Gareth
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