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Mike C

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About Mike C

  • Birthday 03/29/1951

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    Melbourne Australia

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  1. Mike C

    Repair costs

    I did the O rings on my A type operating lever in situ- it was a simple job.
  2. When this happens and you have just stopped , does the clutch disengage?
  3. I assume you don't have a carb distributor with a vacuum line connected. I'd connect a vacuum gauge to the brake booster connection and check the vacuum is stable and falls when you open the throttle- no burn't valves etc. If the vacuum's stable and the timing's right you have a distributor problem
  4. Clean with contact cleaner then check with a multimeter. Some people might not agree, but if a switch sticks I lube it with silicon lubricant then confirm it's still working afterwards with the multimeter.
  5. +1-"Double check you removed the old one entirely", and check the thread engagement of the filter mounting nozzle- mine was made too short and blew a filter cartridge off on cold start.
  6. Maybe put studs in with Loctite 271 ? I went for a roadworthy in order to switch to club plates yesterday and got a fail due to an engine oil leak, even there was no visible drip on a new section of concrete driveway when the car was left there overnight, the Victorian authorities are much less forgiving on leaks than they were 20-30 years ago. You might have to fix the leak eventually.
  7. Mike C

    Diff oil

    "I use a large suction cylinder."- I use one of these but the oil must be warm.
  8. +1" I have a late 1971 CP series TR6 and have always been concerned about the amount of current running through the dash for the ammeter." I have an early model CP and running the charging current in and out of the dashboard is the reason I've limited my alternator output to 45 amps. A direct feed to the battery and a voltmeter is on my" like to do " list. In theory this is easy but there must be a tidy solution rather than running extra wires everywhere.
  9. Mike C

    Diff oil

    GL5 EP oil must be used for the diff because of the extreme pressure of the sliding friction on the hypoid gear teeth. Note it's these anti friction additives in GL5 that will render your gearbox synchro's near useless - so I use GL4 in the gearbox
  10. What's wrong with modifying the one on the rocker cover? Seems a lot easier and should work.
  11. That's a gear selector problem. Check the selectors are not excessively worn and are adjusted properly.
  12. Mike C

    Pi fouling

    +1 for old fuel, used to happen to me each winter before I started adding Stabil. And check the enrichment lever on the side of the MU isn't stuck.
  13. Thanks John . Good to know they're still around if I get into major problems with my TR's engine/drive train. There are quite a few things that have been changed from what was in the Brown Bible.
  14. The results should be closer than that, even if the rings are worn- I suspect you have added too much oil to the cylinders. I'd repeat the wet test. Run the engine to burn the oil out, add 2 squirts with an oil can to each cylinder, turn the engine over about 5 times to distribute the oil then retest. You need to be careful adding oil for wet compression tests- too much can bend a connecting rod.
  15. Thanks Mick. Greg is well known to TSOA members out here. My 180B conversion would have probably been done by Greg or Butler and Rudd in NSW- who built up my engine and running gear . Greg is still in business but Butler and Rudd are gone- as John observed the individuals with lifelong experience in TR's, who knew each car they worked on as an individual machine, are retiring and we're being forced to install off the shelf components- but at least we can keep our cars running.
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