Jump to content

Mike C

Registered User
  • Content Count

    1,409
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Mike C

  • Birthday 03/29/1951

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Location
    Melbourne Australia

Recent Profile Visitors

924 profile views
  1. I have to agree with you. I've refrained from commenting because this seems to be a UK matter. In Australia I've never heard of an insurance claim being disallowed because the speed rating of the tyres was too low. Australian car insurance policies say a vehicle must be maintained in a roadworthy condition. With national maximum speed limits of 110 kmh max, I suspect any insurer trying to void a claim because the car wasn't fitted with say 210 kmh, H rated tyres would be laughed out of court. The reason I fit Pirelli P7's with a V rating is because high tyre speed ratings generally mean h
  2. Your problem is probably the ignition switch, not the ballast resistor. You're bypassing the switch when you apply 12V directly to the coil. I doubt that a new ballast resistor will fix the problem. Are all your ignition wiring connections secure?
  3. Maybe start by checking what circuits on the relay are alive with the ignition off, then compare the result with the wiring diagram.
  4. The idle metering valve doesn't open much- I open mine until I get an idle speed of around 900 rpm- I believe that any speed lower than this can cause pressure pulses that damage the MU and throttle butterflies.
  5. Yep, 75% or more of misfire problems are caused by ignition. Check if the plugs were wet after the misfire episode. Generally if they're wet they're not firing, if they're sooty the mixtures too rich. Your enrichment lever is releasing fully?
  6. It's been done before- I had a look it when my column switch was playing up, saved link:
  7. If the secondary cylinder were sticking this could conceivably result in lower pressures to the rear calipers. The chart at the end of the article provides an idea of the booster performance . Given the problems with some repro boosters I wouldn't be rushing in to replace the booster.
  8. Some TR6's have in effect two master cylinders: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwiO-r-g3f7vAhVHX30KHYLdCHgQFjAEegQIBBAD&url=https%3A%2F%2Fstatic1.squarespace.com%2Fstatic%2F5c6dec53b10f25d4edf0b3f7%2Ft%2F5c6ee9cb24a6942d310d0151%2F1550772684554%2FBrake%2BOverview%2B%26%2BTheory.pdf&usg=AOvVaw0vu_xUdZY5Q9yzQXQtRX8y
  9. That's the way I put mine in recently.
  10. Calibrated for the wheels and final drive you are using?
  11. Thanks for the reply on my TR6 250 I didn't know anything about the rear main front big bearings the car is running smooth until it gets warm and it seems to lose oil pressure I put a brand new aluminum oil pump in there and until it gets up to running temperature it seems to be fine even drives fine but then loses a little bit of power once it warms up it loses oil pressure even with the new pump in there I don't know what to do then feels like it starts to vibrate from the crank but when it's cold it has pressure and runs good and has power

     

     

    1. Mike C

      Mike C

      Have you checked the oil pressure relief valve? It might be jammed from a bit of bearing swarf and bypassing oil before it's supposed to open.

      Did you mention the new aluminum oil pump on the main TR6 forum? I know a lot of the blokes on here have had problems with new pumps and I assume you primed the new pump properly before you started the engine? 

      If there's any doubt drop the sump and have a look at the main, big end and thrust bearings. There's a lot of info on the forum on how to do this. In particular the thrust bearings are a real TR6 weak spot- they get loaded when you depress the clutch- I don't depress the clutch when I start the engine as there's no oil pressure in the thrust bearings.

  12. Is the oil pressure now OK? Was there much bearing metal in the sump? Can you rock the crankshaft back and forth by hand and feel/hear the knock? Feel any movement in the crankshaft fore and aft? You replaced the big end bearings with original size- are you sure the ones you removed were original size? After looking at the above, unless I was convinced the crankshaft bearings were OK , I'd at least pull the caps off and have a look at them.
  13. If there was a physical inspection by the French you'd have to convince them a catch can or snorkel was as originally fitted . Fair chance the inspector couldn't tell the difference between a TR4 and a TR6.
  14. "Before the accident the sender did occasionally stop working."- Much as I hate replacing original parts I hate intermittent electrical faults more- if the fault is not obvious I'd replace it.
  15. Make sure that you won't get caught on this during a physical engine inspection. I run a few cars this way , and it's a great idea to keep the engine feeding on cold air and petrol, but it's totally illegal to bypass the PCV system for on road cars in Australia. Also check your enriching lever on the MU is releasing fully.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.