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Mike C

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Mike C last won the day on November 3 2018

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About Mike C

  • Birthday 03/29/1951

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    Melbourne Australia

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  1. Mike C


    If you have an infra red thermometer you can do a fair bit to track down cooling problems. A hot engine with a cold radiator indicated a water circulation problem. A hot engine but a cold upper radiator hose is a good indication the thermostat is stuck closed. A hot engine and a hot radiator and I'd be looking at timing, weak mixture or a clogged exhaust.
  2. Mike C


    In the late '60's used to cure overheating vehicles by running with the thermostat out and a blind on the radiator- but that's just masking the problem. Are you sure your timing is right and you have no airlocks in the cooling system? If those items look OK I'd have a look at the water pump . The supplementary fan is rotating in the correct direction and operating before the gauge goes into the red?
  3. I'd remove the thermostat- the faster the flushing fluid moves the better, plus the obvious problem is that it might clog up with loosened crud.
  4. When I did this last I removed the spark plugs before cranking. It made an incredible difference to the speed at which the engine rotated and made the initial set up much easier.
  5. I cleaned ,soldered and taped all my OD electrical connections. The existing crimp connections were to hard to check and repair if they worked loose.
  6. Thanks Keith. Its reassuring to know that the work can be done in situ. I'll check the side plate on an engineer's block while I have it off to replace the gasket and O ring. The O ring behind the setting lever will also need replacing - I plan to move the cross shaft inwards enough to access this and remove it with a pick.
  7. Thanks Roger. I'll try ORS for the O rings- if I get them from this supplier I know they'll work. The tool is a good idea for working in the confined space next to the OD case- I'll see what I can make using the same principles.
  8. "if i recall its ep80 gl4? "- that's what I use, either natural or synthetic.
  9. Thanks Berry. I'll add this to my list of jobs for this Australian winter. The "O" rings will be replaced with Viton as I suspect the "O" rings that failed were NBR.
  10. Can anyone confirm that the "O" rings on either end of the operating valve cross shaft and the gasket under the solenoid plate can be replaced with the overdrive in situ. I have minor leaks from the case at each end of the cross shaft and I'm assessing how big a job repairing them will be. My main concern is the operating valve dropping if the cross shaft is moved too far.
  11. NGK model no BUR6ET plugs fixed my misfire, but if you buy a set you will need to talk to the Finance Department.
  12. That's where mine runs, I was very careful to make sure it didn't foul anything with suspension travel or bear against a hard surface that might cut it with vibration.
  13. I guess you've checked the fuel enrichment system works. Last SU carburetted car I had (50 odd years ago) this was a cable operated lever that lowered the main jet.
  14. You're right, have a look at the extracts from "Appendix A "of the Laycock manual: Laycock OD Applications.pdf
  15. Buckeye has some details on the A Type numbering. http://web.archive.org/web/20040409105558fw_/http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/AOD/AOD1/AOD1.htm
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