Kenrow

Thank you, I removed a sample section and it does appear to be black e plated.

20 years ago I replaced the floor pans to my TR and finally getting around to painting the vehicle. Just wondering what type of primmer the panels have and if I should remove it or just scuff up and re-prime?

FYI: "In a published article in Machinist Workshop Magazine, they tested some commercially available penetrating oils on a group of nuts and bolts they had scientifically rusted to a uniform degree in a saltwater solution. The fasteners were treated with a variety of commercially available penetrants, and the measured torque required to loosen them was recorded. The breakout torque required for: Nothing = 516 ft. lbs. WD-40 = 238 ft. lbs. PB Blaster = 214 ft. lbs. Liquid Wrench = 127 ft. lbs. Kano Kroil = 106 ft. lbs. 50/50 blend of ATF and Acetone

Ed does top notch work: http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-45/TR6-45.html

Here in the states we use PB Blaster, works great!

Check out the TR 6 Forum, but it looks like there has been a rush on buying the hose...

Maybe you could try something like this with 6AN fittings: https://www.ebay.com/b/Derale-Cooling-Products-Car-and-Truck-Suspension-and-Steering-Parts/33579/bn_23266184

I thought only the metal part of the dash had to be modified. This silver finish can easily be rubbed off with chrome polish.

Do they make a servo rebuild kit compatible with Silicon Brake Fluid?

I have an uninstalled 7/8” bar readily available if you need any more details…

The new wheels The new wheels have a have a recessed band for use with tubeless tires slightly altering the way they look. Think it would be hidden by the wheel trim.

Original screws were 1/4 inch UNF x 1 inch. If you add thicker spacers you may need to adjust accordingly.

Take a look at the Rimmer Br. Catalog: https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID200790

Unfortunately the “new” lower front valance are no better

I have a 12 v cordless dremel. While convenient, it doesn’t have the umph the corded model has.