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Showing results for 'engine oil'.
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Yes its a Limousine engine, loads of torque will pull away in top gear. Stuart.
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Do you know about the 5.4 liter 6 cylinder engine? Should I make him an offer?
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There's nothing wrong with the original nylon lines. I've only had to replace one- no. 5 caught on fire while I was trying to bleed the injector with the engine running. Don't know what ignited it but I now bleed with the engine off, plugs out.
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For what it is worth my 4A has BP7HS plugs (cooler than BP6HS that used to cause engine to run on). Plug gap on mine is 0.025 inch. Dwell angle currently between 57 and 60 degrees. You have 0.032 inch gap on plugs. Various views on correct gap for early cars but 0.025 seems to be acceptable. Larger gap requires more energy than smaller for a spark so might indicate coil faulty. Had a problem with mine a week ago. Car has not been used much this year so far. Would not start, plugs sooty. Cleaned plugs and charged battery. Eventually got it going but very rough. Stopped engine, plugs out a
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As your engine is modified why are you going away from the Webers? Stuart.
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Thanks for the replies guys. Rich thanks for the offer but I’m sticking with SU’s, tempting Stuart but I’m after something a bit cheaper and simpler. I will have it set up Ona rolling road as the engine is modified, so I should be looking for a long neck manifold ? cheers Mark
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I'm re-installing the new loom in the 4a after the major earth/meltdown and I'm puzzled by one of the wires at the front of the engine bay. It's the solid green wire. I took pictures but they don't quite show what I'm looking for and the wiring schematic doesn't answer the question; I have a main loom feed to L & R indicators and side repeaters (GW & GR) but I can't work out what the green wire would do? Much appreciated David
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If everything is generally correct, but not perfect, this can’t stop the TR 4 cylinder engine running
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Not by much though (he ventured to say) I don't think it would stop the engine running. Bob
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If Mark's engine is modified, and his mention of Webers seems to suggest this could be so, then standard Strombergs might need to be set on a rolling road and would likely require different needles, for which I believe there is a far greater range available for SUs. Perhaps someone who has Strombergs on a modified motor could comment. Ian Cornish
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Devs If you have good fuel in the carbs then he cause is almost certainly ignition, as others have indicated. The best way, I have found, is to first check you have spark then check the timing. Checking for spark is easy and I am sure you have done so. I find a timing light the best and quickest toll and not expensive. All you need to do is hook it up and see if it flashes when you try to start the engine. If no spark, fix the problem. If you have spark then timing is the most probable. Check your timing. Pull no 1 plug and get the engine with No 1 piston at the top of its stroke and
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I had my engine rebuilt 12 years ago by https://www.maynardenginesltd.co.uk/. Recommend by some of the race guys. near Stroud Glos. sooooooooo pleased with it still. steve
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These people helped me when I needed some engine work carried out.
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Luckily I have had my cars for more than 25 years and made modifications some time ago. It would seem they are most concerned about modified rather than replaced items and I think this will keep the government’s nose out of most our rebuilding work. However, is a tr4 engine in a tr2 like for like or modified? Girdling axle? I have reported all modifications to my insurer’s religiously and I’m glad I have as I will have an audit trail when our hobby becomes out of step with future attitudes. My cars are always taxed and insured and constantly in use from a government perspective. I saved -
Enginuity in Acton are very good. Rebuilt my engine 6 years ago and it's been brilliant ever since.
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The actual timing with Pertronix should be the same as with points. It's the engine which determines what advance is required, not the type of ignition. The thing about pertronix and other such systems is that they sit in a different place within the dizzy than the points do, so if you fit them you have to re-adjust the timing point but to the same advance figure.
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I moved my coil some years ago and I had to fit bolts into the holes left in the side of the engine to stop oil coming out. I put a copper washer under each bolt head. Keith -
Hi Devs, how did you adjust the ignition when all was in pieces and fitted with a Pertronix unit? If a Pertronix Ignitior 1 is fitted take care the ignition is not switched on while the engine is off, I remember the limit is 1 minute. Ciao, Marco
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No, the coil bracket holes likely aren't meant for oil and you might have an oil leak. The holes are there to mount the coil, not for engine oil. The oil mist and "spitting" around the holes suggest a leak there. It's best to check if there are any damaged parts or missing seals around those holes that could be causing the oil to come out. -
Steve-B, JohnC I get mine from COKER tire in the U.S.; they are sole source for many of the vintage tyres here. I'm getting some DUNLOP SP Aquajet V-rated in 185/80-15 from them for my concourse '250 with 200 BHP trick engine. It has the 3.7:1 differential though; with the XWX tires I have the 3.45:1. They are even more expensive but what isn't today...
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Thanks Stuart, I've ordered 2 litres of the Penrite from SC Parts (seems to be in short supply everywhere). Roger mentioned it above and I remembered Chris told me it was SAE 40 in there (struck a cord as I thought it was 10w40 engine oil at the time - have since learned the difference). Can you pass on my regards to Chris if you speak to him.
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from the Castrol Classic website Triumph TR3/3A 1955 - 1961 Engine Oil XL30 - 11 pts Gearbox Oil XL30 - 1 1/2 pt with O/D 3.1/2 pt Rear Axle Oil EP90 - 1 1/2 pt Marque Notes For models prior to those shown above the following applies: All capacities as per makers handbook. Engine: XL30 Gearbox: XXL40 Rear axle: XXL40 Classic Valvemaster and Classic Valemaster Plus lead replacement additive: For vehicles of less than 8.1 comp ratio use Classic Valvemaster For vehicles of more than 8.1 comp ratio use Classic Valvemaster Plus
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Does the car have a petrol tap? Left side where the front to back fuel line enters the engine compartment before the pump on the engine block. These weep. If you operate it they weep, if you ignore it they weep. Solution is to renew the cork inner seal.
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Lee i now use an engine builder in Kent on several race and road engines.Very happy with results. You may well have come across him in the past as has been in the Bomley area for ever.Nice old school knowledge. The line boring / machine work is carried out by Gosnay's . pm if you require further details Roy
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I have used the heater and its fan facility in other vehicles as a temporary means of getting the engine temp down in slow traffic conditions on hot days, yes it's uncomfortable but it seemed to work, I'm not sure if the position of the heater in a TR6 would be of help in similar conditions. Just a thought.
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