Tom Fremont

Thanks for the plug; just note that 9.5:1 c/r and CP cam go hand in hand therewith Tom

I have a CP spec cam in my driver and a Piper 1312@105 cam in the concours engine. Cheers, Tom

I have a CP spec cam in my driver with Webers with 99K miles and counting. It was supplied by Cambridge Motorsports circa 2002 and I never had it examined for its faithfulness to the factory spec. I don't know who actually made it; blank was new. It was timed in by the book, set at 2-3 degrees c/s advance to compensate for sprocket/chain wear. Clearances are 0.010". I don't understand why the 35/65/65/35 valve timing isn't mentioned above nor in the Newman data sheet. Instead, similar but different timings are shown with slightly less duration, lift and centerline the same however. I have

These will last indefinitely ( 100K+ miles ) bushed with bronze. Both my '250s have these which were done by Rocker Arms Unlimited in the 'States and my spare engine is getting them done by the engine builder. With this upgrade and hardened timing chain wheels these engines should be good for 150,000+ miles between rebuilds with regular oil changes and good control of A/F ratio. Tom

No need to remove the sump - the trough in the block's cam bores catches the followers. Tom

Yes. After the cam and old followers are removed the new ones are inserted into the trough one by one and using a straight wire from above and a gentle nudge from behind they are stood up to vertical so the hook can be pushed into the bore, then carefully lifted into the block bore and suspended with a clothespin. Once all (12) are in the cam is inserted, lobes greased and the followers are all pushed off their hooks onto the cam. I only did this because the defective cam had only 150 miles on it and all else was as new. Tom

I have the 6-2-1 Racetorations manifold on my Webered TR250 for 100K miles now. I had it " ceramic " coated before fitting and I'm not aware of any heat related issues over the last 20 years with it. It is connected to a single pipe large bore exhaust ( by them as well ) which has a "Y" connecting the 2-piece manifold into the single pipe system. I believe it will interface as is with the dual downpipe factory manifold; this allows the single bore system aft of the manifold to fit either arrangement via the " Y ". Tom

John, The " Bo-Peep " hooks are more than tight enough in the follower bores to hold them, clothespins then holding them up. An oversize corkscrew shape could do it even better but a simple hook worked for me. A straight wire is used to push them off, both the old ( into the trough ) and the new ( onto the new camshaft ). Tom

Piper made both the oversize groove cam and the diminutive groove replacement for me. And see post above for installation tips . Tom

Hi John, The low oil pressure culprit camshaft only had 150 miles on it when I took it out. Hating the task of removing (3) Webers, manifolds, head etc. I managed to extract the cam, followers and insert their replacements with the head on. I got some hints from various folks here and using a sheet of aluminium formed a trough, suspended the followers with Bo- Peep hooks and dropped them into it, withdrew them and stood up new ones, suspended them likewise and slid the new cam into place. Saved a ton of work! These were the implements: Cheers. Tom

Phil, IMO the original vinyl is so fragile that I would only consign repair of it to show use only, not for driving. Some have done pretty well filling the cracks with Bondo ( auto body filler ), sanding and painting. Regards, Tom

TRF's cover is a bargain if you must have original ( I must ). One of mine is 18 years old, the other 11 and neither shows any sign of age beyond a shiny patina where the hands rub them after many years and miles of use. We know the originals didn't last like that. I was able to strip the old vinyl off and save enough of the foam underneath to re-use them, filling in gaps with urethane foam in an aerosol can sold for insulating purposes. The real job is to recover the rim with leather; an upholsterer made the cover for mine and perforated the edges with his sewing machine. 3-4 hour

Hi Andy, If the clearance you cite is diametral it means ~ 0.0014" gap all round. Not too much, necessarily as the fit isn't so snug as to give any resistance to insertion. Shells are fine if you get the machinist to do it well; he may find the bores are not parallel with those of the crank and can fix that if so. There will be resistance with shells; this because the joint isn't perfectly round so will give a high spot there. Won't ever seize; that's the good news. Some may not be aware of the role the oil grooves play in oil pressure; one of my engines with fresh shells and n

Hi Eddie, This will need the advice of those who have converted to RHD as I suppose you have done. Plenty of TR6s with RHD have been converted to dual S.U.s so they have worked it out. Originally no cable was used on the TR250; the linkage was all hard: http://trf.zeni.net/TR6-TR250GB/120.php#navbar Cheers, Tom

I can vouch for the CP cam and triple Webers, having done 95K trouble free miles with them. Quicker than the stock P.I. but it does have head work and sport exhaust system. Tom