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Tom Fremont

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Tom Fremont last won the day on September 13 2019

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About Tom Fremont

  • Birthday 07/27/1955

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    http://www.torque-inc.com
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  • Location
    Milford, Ohio, USA

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  1. I wonder if it's really necessary or even helpful where the car is driven regularly. I never grease mine, nor the driveshaft U-joints after fitting copiously greased new ones when the spirit moves me ( never had one go bad, but have pre-emptively changed them whenever replacing hubs or removing them for other reasons ). For a long idle example I can imagine some benefit would accrue to greasing when re-commissioning. Cheers, Tom
  2. from what is purported to be the world's largest readership paper: https://www.wsj.com/articles/they-used-to-need-permission-to-drive-this-classic-british-car-11581431337?mod=hp_listc_pos1 Cheers, Tom
  3. The spitting image appears in TRAction ads regularly - I reckon they're already over on your side of the pond. Tom
  4. On the driver CD6170L. The concourse one has originals, or at lease Taiwanese copies. If I were to do it over I'd go with his heavy duty U-joint kit which is easier to install, looks the biz and I'm betting every bit as smooth. I'll see if the CVs pick up an MPG or two and report. He claims they're much more efficient. Tom
  5. No clunk with these: https://www.goodparts.com/product-category/drive-train/upgraded-axle-hub-kits/ Took 5 hours to swap and what little clunk there was is gone. There is still a mild hum at 65-75 MPH which I hoped to retire . They are not dead silent either. Tom
  6. Stuck some GOODPARTS CV axles in my driver; took 5 hours. Excellent stuff, instructions etc. I sought to eliminate a rather mild hum at 65-75 mph but it's still there . Anyway, they are a little tighter and time will tell if the fuel economy improves ( bearings are ball rather than roller, dunno of CVs are more efficient than Cardans ). Tom
  7. The 5/250 grille's lowest bar lacks the [ vestigial ] cutout for the crank handle also. Tom
  8. Hi Paul, Looks promising ( scant rust through )! I see it has the '69 wheels, rarest of the lot. My Rostyle wheelcovers ( which I distilled from ~ a dozen ) are taking up too much space now that I decided never to fit them. When your gaze falls upon this finishing touch put a query on here and if I still have them they can be yours. They're in good but not perfect condition; price will reflect as much. Cheers, Tom
  9. I'm more curious about the non-painted, anodized areas. To duplicated the original this would have to be sanded, re-sanded finer, re-sanded finer yet, polished to a mirror finish then sent out for bright-dip anodizing. Should entail about the cost of buying a top notch reproduction if time is valued at nothing. A reasonable facsimile would be to sand and polish per above, and then clear-coat with a reputable brand like Eastwood Diamond Clear Gloss. Tom
  10. That counts for something, Christian - thanks. I have found some pump springs stiffer than others, with significant pressure variance resulting. The factory manual specifies 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 psi as the range, a variation of 67%. Mine have the stiffer type . Tom
  11. Kastner advised removing the mechanical pump for electric more than 50 years ago, so that seems to be the conventional wisdom. But does anyone have first hand experience with fuel starvation using the mechanical pump? I don't, though the max I've taken my cars is 115 mph and it wasn't sustained for more than a few seconds, with 100+ mph for a bit longer and no issues there. My Webers have 175 inlet valves, or 1.75mm diameter. (3) of these present a much smaller total opening size ( less than 1/2 ) of the fuel line size of 3/16" / 5mm diameter. Given the pressure limitation of the Webers is similar to the mechanical pump pressure the claim of inadequate fuel delivery doesn't work on paper. I do have doubts about the mechanical pump at max rpm, thinking it may just flutter on the cam lobe and not give full stroke. Tom
  12. What would be wrong with the original AC mechanical pump? I've logged 135K+ blissful miles on triple 40s with them. K.I.S.S. was the guiding principle in my case. Tom
  13. The long duration CP cam is responsible for the high smelly factor, speaking from experience with one and with an even longer duration KENT TH2. I run Webers so have dialed them in as lean as they'll go ( no soot on bumper at all ) and they definitely smell much more than the emissions engines or the TR2,3,4 stock specification engines ever did. At idle the smoke is visible in the sunlight with my concourse engine which has a very high lift, 292 degree duration cam. Both of my cars are Michelotti with fixed rear screens and somewhat extended tailpipes. The TR5/6 tailpipe often terminates forward of the bumper and can do with a few inches of extra length. Anyway, mine have no smell in the cockpit despite standard boot seals with their attendant gaps here and there. Tom
  14. Supposedly TRIUMPH left the underside in red primer, on TR6s at least. First I heard of it was 17 years ago and have come across it a few times since. I don't think it is commonly known, as this car's description makes no mention of it. There's another one with red primer showing for sale at Beverly Hills Car Club ( they don't mention it either ), but over the years it's only been a few with it showing. Tom
  15. See the underside of this one, and note original paint. They're still coming available it seems, and a terrific bargain at the price among vintage sports cars. https://www.ebay.com/itm/372879733181 Tom
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