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Tom Fremont

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Everything posted by Tom Fremont

  1. 4A seats and inlet manifold, but those are arguably improvements! Lovely car indeed. Cheers, Tom
  2. Tom Fremont

    Classical Dash

    For the world's finest: http://www.prestigeautowood.com/triumph_gallery.htm I have them in both of my '250s, one selected by the PO and one by me. Nothing like them! See the razor thin gap around the glovebox door. The one in my driver looks just as it did when it was new 23 years ago. Tom
  3. Tom Fremont

    Classical Dash

    What is similar is having my card charged before shipment was made, unique in my experience and it was Racetorations. I will never again deal with a supplier on those terms. Tom
  4. The CP cam will deliver lower fuel economy than the CR; my guess is ~ 4 MPG overall. Duration is the reason; the more of this the lower the MPG. Headwork and exhaust system can add several HP; with CP cam mine gained a second in the 1/4 mile over unmodified head with 295 degree duration cam. I've been enjoying TR nirvana with my CP cam on Webers since 2000. To my thinking the CR cam doesn't take advantage of the 6 throttles provided. Cheers, Tom
  5. Wear can account for several degrees at the crank. I have mine installed 3 degrees advanced to offset this, expecting that it will eventually be 3 degrees retarded by the time it is done. I have found that the clearance in the cam sprocket holes allows for at least 6 degrees of adjustment. No, the sprocket doesn't move on the cam if properly tightened, and if it's not the bolts will shear off anyway. It never occurred to me that TRIUMPH may have factored wear into the original settings. Cheers, Tom
  6. Tom Fremont

    Wha Hoo!

    I have that cam in my concourse car's engine. 41/71/71/41 valve timing, collision type, i.e. more lift than headroom in the combustion chamber. It is fed by Weber 40DCOEs with 32mm chokes on mine, and it does rip compared to the CP cam I have in my driver. Never dyno'd it but reckon it has to be good for 170 BHP conservatively. Supposedly this cam was developed by Racetorations, who supplied me (2) defective ones - the third I got from Piper directly and it has 5K miles on it now. It needs special springs and wide spring seats to cope with the lift; don't venture forth without these. Designation known to Piper is 1312@105. 200BHP+ is claimed to be achievable with this but may entail 7000 rpm capability and 2.7 litre displacement. Mine is only 0.030" overbored and stays below 6000 rpm. The idle can be brought to heel too ( on Webers, at least ) : Cheers, Tom
  7. Hi Angus, Fuel consumption with the CP / TR5 cam should be ~ 24 mpg Imperial overall and 30-32 mpg highway with the injection dialed in. I say that because that's what I get with the same cam on Weber DCOEs, O/D and factory final drive and tire diameter. 90,000 miles and counting with that setup. Cams govern the fuel consumption, duration being the determining factor in inverse proportion. It's pretty amazing how the milder factory cams in the TRs deliver fuel economy up to 40 mpg Imperial, even the U.S. market 6-pot ones with O/D, highway use anyway. I remember reading how a TR2 or 3 got over 70 mpg ( Imperial, I assume ) in contests back in the day. FWIW, my 2016 Cadillac 2.0 T gets about 28 mpg Imperial overall though it does weigh 3300 lbs and with 20 psi of boost delivers 272 HP and 295 lb-ft of torque. Tom
  8. Well, Murray, you have a set of vintage Italians there. If I didn't already have (5) sets of triples with only (2) in service I'd buy yours. Weber DCOEs are not " fussy ". They are not responsive to hoping or casual fiddling and will not perform well unless properly calibrated however. Once dialed in they don't move, and it is doable without rolling roads via trial and error as I and plenty of others have done. TR5/6 applications abound, so tuning data is available free of charge. I've done (3) different tunings on my TR250s plus a few others and will never consider any other fueling method for them, as the Webers deliver on all counts and are by far the most reliable and enduring component of the entire vehicle. Though it must ruffle feathers here and there no one has contested my speculating that TR6s would fetch 2-3X what they do today if TRIUMPH had chosen to fit DCOEs to them. Triple Strombergs will not deliver what DCOEs will, assuming both options are optimally tuned. There is a recent case here in the 'States where a UK transplant converted from the former to the latter and is now enjoying TR6 nirvana; there are others to be sure. I've done nearly 130,000 miles with mine. Cheers, Tom
  9. Hi Stef, I have used original clips and silicone caulk on the (3) aluminum ones I've done. Removal was pretty easy ( did this only once ) and the scratches on the paint are behind the front edge of the trim. There is a chance of scraping the paint with that edge too, btw. I believe TRIUMPH used a black caulk with the clips, which eventually became brittle and held the trim on with a vengeance. Patience and copious amounts of adhesive solvent gets the better of it. I think there are (7) clips. I wouldn't worry about removing the trim; no need unless repainting that I can imagine. Cheers, Tom
  10. Tom Fremont

    Taper pin

    A pin which is not tight in the shaft will fail. So picture 2 is better, however... the head of the pin should be chamfered on its underside to allow it to go further into the yoke. Pins lacking this tend to bottom on the head and not the taper, a recipe for failure as in the first sentence above. You can file off the corners if need be. Tom
  11. I've been using the TRF Magic Clutch kit comprising Koyo bearing, Sachs PP and LUK disc since the last century. I'm guessing I've done over 100K miles with them ( 2 cars ) and haven't had any issues whatsoever - best setup I know of and that includes the Laycock which is also very good, just more abrupt engaging. They key in my experience is that I twigged misalignment to be the chief gremlin in circulation with these and got mine aligned properly every time beginning with my first TRF kit. I'm with Stagpowered above; it's probably a misalignment issue causing the TOB to scrub on the PP fingers in an orbital pattern. Not what it was designed to do! Tom
  12. Tom Fremont

    Wow!

    Years ago a powder blue TR4 fetched well over that figure on Barrett Jackson Auctions. It too had a Chinese lower valance, aftermarket steering wheel and 4-5 other deviations from original which I saw ( must be more! ) and no go-faster goodies like Webered engine, etc. nor Surrey hardtop. Will news someday that TRs are fetching what they cost to restore be taken badly? From the comments here it would seem so . Either way, 2X the asking price has been spent restoring TRs to very high standards, surpassing factory quality of course. Tom
  13. Just think of the HP boost you got! Until now, the drag probably negated the savings from ditching the fan . Cheers, Tom
  14. I was able to reuse the originals - the stuff lasts forever. I glued it into position with 3M Contact Cement. As for what it is, I guess horsehair. There may be a suitable carpet underlayment that gives a decent facsimile, but doubt it will come in black. Cheers, Tom
  15. Tom Fremont

    surrey top

    Sounds like the fabric is too small or perhaps the front/rear span is too long. Also, some capping pieces give scant gap with the windscreen seal and the front lip of the top has to be stuffed underneath with great difficulty ( I used to lubricate it ). My '250s have the early chromed brass capping which gives ample gap, and though a bit fiddly no wrestling is needed to install them, 3-5 minutes tops. This can be far too long if a sudden shower arrives out of nowhere! Better to fit it first if threatened. I once thought the fabric should be tight against the H-frame. At speed it is always lifted up so this isn't essential. Finally, even with a very tight front lip grip the top would peel out at 80 MPH in the rain. I found that opening the window slightly would mitigate this. Nowadays I just don't drive that fast in the rain with the soft top, and over the years I'd say the Surrey tops have been fitted for less than 1% of the total mileage excepting X-country driving. Cheers, Tom
  16. I ran stock '250s from 1976 to 2004 using Champion N12Y, Autolite 55 and by 1990 NGK BP6ES, all giving the same colour. I used Bosch once or twice but don't remember the model; I would have cited N12Y Champion as a cross reference. The proper correlation between NGK and Champion is the question, and at the end of the day the colour ought to govern the choice. Tom
  17. Hi Daz, I'm not versed on " Stage XYZ " heads, but one of my BP7ES equipped engines with CP cam has 9.5:1 c/r and the other has 10.7:1 with high lift ( 0.504" ) / 282 degree duration cam. Heads are both Racetorations produce ( caveat emptor! ). The [ dated ] information I have is that the 7s correlated to Champion N9Y and the 6s correlated to Champion N12Y, specified for TR5/6 P.I. and TR250/6 carb respectively, by TRIUMPH. So my experience amounts to " going by the book ". Cheers, Tom
  18. Those are both hot plugs, and the BP6ES works well in the U.S. market applications, grey colour on my stock TR250 engine long ago. When I tried them with my CP spec engine with Weber DCOEs they ran white. So I've been using BP7ES since the 1900s. These get changed out at 30K miles whether they need it or not. Apart from LUCAS P.I. equipped TR5/6 fast road engines I'm told the 7s are the favourites. From what I've seen on this forum the P.I. cars do better with hotter plugs. The above issue about #s 5&6 is a recurring theme too. Some have fattened the plenum to 4" in an effort to correct this. Cheers, Tom
  19. Hi Richard, There are various pedestrian tyres available in the 185-15 size original to the U.S. market cars with 3.7:1 final drive. Performance ones are expensive but also available - if your TR6 has been brought to " 150 " BHP since its repatriation to the UK you might consider the Michelin XVS in that size or the XAS in 180-15. Dunlop still offer their vintage SP Sport tyre with the iconic AquaJet tread in V speed rating. If U.S. spec there are redlines from COKER or Universal Tire in the original size. For 3.45:1 final drive: 195/65 tyres are smaller in diameter than the 165-15s fitted to the injected cars ( though not much ). 185/70-15 are spot on but choices are few for these, Vredestein or the 186 MPH Michelin XWX as I have on my driver ( I love them! ). Cheers, Tom
  20. Tom Fremont

    Oilpump

    Years ago I bought some OE internals, several sets comprising the shaft, sleeve but not housing. One or two measured in spec with at least (3) having excess clearances. Mixing and matching helped. I fitted one to my driver. I'm fixed for the duration with at least one good set for the next new engine but I'm sorry to see the ones available today are sub-par. Tom
  21. Lovely car! LHD too! Cheers, Tom
  22. The manifold tightening torque specified in Uncle Bentley correlates to the lowest grade of bolt, half that of a high grade one. So the tensile stress is low, and if a stainless bolt is rated for 25 lb-ft I see no reason not to use it...other than the matter of wearing out the threads in the cast iron head a little. This is mitigated when a lubricant is used ( here in the 'States we like Never Seize which uses nickel powder ). I'm not convinced installation will be easier with bolts, however. I've been quite happy with the standard studs and stainless nuts/lockwashers, copiously lubricated with Never Seize. The nuts and lockwashers look like new after years of use too. Tom
  23. When the fuel/air ratio is spot on the cam duration determines fuel economy. CP cams won't do as well as CR cams and CC cams will deliver the best ( 40 mpg Imperial highway with O/D ). The 280 degree duration of the CP cam is an anomaly amongst its contemporaries, exceptionally long with commensurate fuel economy penalty. Best I've gotten with Weber DCOEs and CP cam is 32 mpg Imperial ( 27 mpg U.S. ) and that was at 60 mph average. Any LUCAS P.I. engine with the same cam which surpasses this has been tuned very well indeed. A vacuum advance function for cruising would deliver another 2-3 mpg I reckon. Others can chime in on this. The early emissions controlled TRs have this and gain another 16-18 degrees of advance under light throttle conditions. Tom
  24. Here in the 'States SAE 30W non-detergent motor oil has been thoroughly proven. I must have done over 100K miles with my Webered TR250 O/D transmission using the stuff. There should be a detectable, if slight increase in fuel economy with this over the gear oils, giving less viscous drag. Similarly, I noticed several more miles between fill ups using a synthetic oil in the differential ( poured like water, almost ). Cheers, Tom
  25. My driver's has no valve guide seals and mileage before requiring oil be added is an integer multiple of the original ( 3000-4000 miles vs. 800 per quart ). I very much appreciate having more oil lubricating the valve guides, as the paltry amount given by the standard setup gives me little confidence. As to whether or not this auxiliary feed line is " necessary ", I suppose it may not be when the rocker shaft is chrome plated and the arms are bronze bushed. This is the case with both of my engines, so an incomplete experiment in my case. Valve guides in the driver's head have 90K miles so far and are bronze. Tom
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