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Tom Fremont

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Everything posted by Tom Fremont

  1. I would have guessed more tonnage required than 65; just a hunch since I only supply clutches for such presses. How were the dies made, i.e. what told the cutting tools where to go? Cost? Sorry, just idle curiosity. Tom
  2. Right - and we can see the stripe width and distance from the front edge differ between the versions. Tom
  3. The Roadster Factory has a template/diagram which I found more to my liking than the MOSS. The apex of the stripe should be subtle, not a sharp crease as shown in the MOSS version. TRIUMPH did little if anything to ensure the paint adhered to the beading, and it flaked off over time. Diligence now will avoid heartache later! Tom
  4. Hi Marco, Both the PCV valve and the servo hose are connected to the inlet manifold. The valve cover sees a reduced vacuum due to the PCV valve mechanism. Detail pic below. Ciao, Tom
  5. Sure! The T-connector is original to the TR250 and goes to a 1/8" orifice in the air filter housing, as it does on the factory setup. The SMITHS PCV valve balances itself to ensure a slight vacuum on the crankcase via the valve cover nipple, again as per original. The CANNON Weber manifold does in fact have balance tubes which are seen in the photo, so that all tracts are fed the lovely lubricated gases equally ( TWM manifolds are different ). The 2nd hose goes to the brake servo, not the distributor. Z320 is sadly mistaken; this system works flawlessly. The engine uses 1 US quart of oil
  6. I've been happy with this for 24 years/ 135,000 miles. Earlier this year I replaced the diaphragm in the SMITHS* pcv valve; otherwise zero maintenance. Tom * original to the TR250
  7. I have a Phoenix single pipe silencer circa 2005 with ~ 75K miles on it so far. It was the quiet version with a bundle of perforated stainless tubes in the bore; these were NLA for some time and it may behoove you to check with them and see if they have come up with another solution. Their large bore cross box " silencer " is very loud by comparison, and I wouldn't be happy going long distances ( over 50 miles ) with it. Pics of both below, and a link to an i-phone video of the quiet one. Tom
  8. Factory cams are symmetrical so inserting the camshaft with the first two lobes equidistant from 12:00 o'clock while the crankshaft is at TDC will get it to within a hair of where it needs to be - one of the other pair of holes in the sprocket will be close to those in the camshaft; trial fit and check for final position, adjustable via the slop in the bolt holes. I set mine to ~3 degrees advance ( crankshaft ) to compensate for stretch, but to each his own. Tom
  9. I have used a single run of 1/4" brake line tubing from the AC mechanical fuel pump to within ~ 2" of the first pipe tee on the front Weber carb. From there it's ordinary rubber low pressure fuel line hose, the minimum age of which is 10 years and which gets replaced when/if cracks appear in the outer layer. No issues over 24 years/ 135,000 miles. Tom
  10. (8) p/n CD26326 in the TR250 parts book by TRF ( supposedly replicate of the factory book ). Rear spring / differential beam, T-shirt, the tail end of the frame and front shock tower struts are the (4) sites shown. Tom
  11. All TR250s had black undercoat on the sills, just like all the U.S. market TR6s. Roy's testimony is of a piece with other TR5 production anomalies which surface regularly. When so few were made... Tom
  12. Affirmative - the crank will have 6 lbs less on its throws than the stock bits, alleviating the need for bracing up to that point. At least one notorious specialist in the UK claims the stock crank will hold to 7000 rpm, 500 rpm more than the stock pistons and these will be forged. I doubt I'll ever take it over 6000 anyway. 160 ( genuine ) BHP? Tom
  13. There are much wilder cams available than the CP ( or S2 for that matter ) and the difference is dramatic but they are fraught with corollary requirements and degraded longevity prospects. I have one such, 0.504" lift / 292 degrees duration but it's in a concours car which sees ~ 500 miles/year, ~ 10 per outing. Head work can make a nice difference, a guess would be ~10 BHP and an optimized exhaust system likewise at best. My next, and probably last engine will use a CP cam, Peter Burgess head, forged pistons and Carillo super light, unbreakable rods. It should go to 6500 rpm withou
  14. We use chemical stripping services here in the 'States; they do whole car bodies and my company uses them to clean large cast iron industrial brake castings. All paint and rust are removed in a 2-step process. I have used this method on my TR panels since 1980. We also have dry ice blasting services which can remove paint and rust from surfaces too, and add zero waste to the process. I wouldn't expect this to get into the folds of a Surrey lid however. From the examples I've seen TRIUMPH applied nothing to the underside of the roof panels, so the inevitable condensation drains d
  15. After the grandkids prepped it I took it over to my engine builder's shop. Tom
  16. Great reference if you have a LOTUS, his focus and I believe origin of his study. I have a LUCITE fuel depth gauge from him. For TRs, I think the particulars diverge from his perspective. I recently saw that he only deals with (1) emulsion tube, the F11 which was used in the LOTUS application. While some have had success with it on TRs, most use other ones and in my case it's at least 3 down on my list of what gives the best results on a 6-pot 2.5 TR engine. He also advises a high float level of 25mm below the top of the well, in effect the maximum height before drowning the venturis
  17. To clarify, the # of turns I posted above are from the seated/closed position. This refers to the idle mixture screw and not the throttle stop screw. Also, if you have the -151 carbs with the throttle bypass screws I would start with them all closed, and open them as necessary to perfectly synchronize them at idle, once the jetting proves satisfactory. Any idle jet can be made to work...at idle. All you have to do is keep opening or closing the mixture screw until it works. Off idle is another story. Tom
  18. Both of these are lean for the TR6 engine with CP cam or beyond, and very close to each other in that sense. Worth a try as it is so easy, but a 50F9 or 55F8 would be my suggestion. The early 40DCOEs ( without the wings on the lids ) idle mixture screws should be ~ 3/4 turn open, and the later ones ( 151 ) ~ 2 turns open. More than this indicates a lean jet and vice-versa. These are mid-point values and small deviations are acceptable. Tom
  19. I could find no reference online to the triple S.U. fitment other than 1962 model year. The number of 355 recurs as a production total. There were a few notations about " the difficulty of keeping them tuned ". As for the Jaguar, I thought it were to their credit to adjust for the induction anomalies via a different needle, but I've only ever seen one such claim ( and I think it may have been here ). Tom
  20. I know of a Spitfire 1500 which does that too, and it has a single DCOE carb which cannot deliver equally to the (4) cylinders due to uneven induction within each pair, rendering half of the cylinders either lean or rich. Others on the TRIUMPH EXPERIENCE forum had roundly dissed that arrangement. I too am sceptical of their application on anything but individual runner setups. A similar criticism is leveled at triple S.U. or Stromberg setups on inline 6 cylinder engines, pairing cylinders with different angular spacing. Not long ago I saw the claim that Jaguar used a different needle in
  21. My TR250 driver with CP cam and triple DCOEs doesn't fart or burble on overrun at all, let alone pop and bang - never did, and likewise with a Kent TH2 cam ( 295 deg. duration ) before that. I've only driven (1) P.I. TR6 and rode in another courtesy Racetorations; both guilty of farting and burbling on overrun. Do all of them do this? Weber jets mix air with the fuel before entering the inlet tract, so even with throttles completely closed some air gets in. As for Murray's issue, my guess is timing too. Tom
  22. Hi RIchard, That's a lot of rpm for a leak. First ensure the throttle linkage allows both throttles to close. Assuming your TR250 has all its original plumbing you can check the SMITHS PCV valve diaphragm, the throttle bypass valves and if these are OK you may have a manifold gasket leak. The carbs are not so complicated but are not adjustable per se, other than float level. Parts for the carbs may actually be more available here in the 'States where they all were sent originally. Tom
  23. ...and w/r/t oil pressure, a tight fit in the bearing bores won't ensure good pressure ( though a loose fit can surely give poor pressure ). The grooves on the cam journals dam up the flow, and generous ones will give low pressure where fine ones give high pressure. If possible, ensure yours match TRIUMPH's, whether straight or spiral type. Tom
  24. My engine builder reported that the last TR6 engine he worked on's cam bore was 0.018" out of parallel w/r/t the crankshaft bore. He fixed this while boring for shells. Tom
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