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  • Location
    Sydney. Australia
  • Cars Owned:
    1960 TR3A

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  1. David. For me to go back to original would require a complete system change, master cyl, rear brakes, brake lines both flex and ridged. For me that is not an option. I have a DBA catalog. That is how I found the Voyager disc. They do not list any TR 2-8 disc (rotors) in the Australian catalog. Peter, Yes shims are an option or I could machine the calipers to accommodate the thinner disc. My concern is the offset that may require a caliper mount modification, and the diameter that may also require a mod. If the offset is within 2mm of original then I can live with tha
  2. OK, I have not found any other ventilated disc so can anyone tell me the diameter and offset of the ones available on the up-rated kits available from Moss and others?
  3. Except for surface grinding, no machining is allowed. I have not been able to get a suitable disc that does not have a least a five bolt pattern and a center hole that fits the hub. Here the car only has to be 30 years old to be historic and inspections are required annually. The cost to own a fully insured and registered a TR3 for me is about $220.00 per year plus a $40.00 inspection fee.
  4. Sorry, my car was first passed in 2001, not 2021. Also the vehicle must be over 30 years old from date of manufacture to qualify for HVS and CVS. This means a replica Ford GT40 built in 2020 must meet ADRs in force in 2020 (seat belts, side intrusion bars, catalytic converter etc).
  5. There are nine different sets of registration rules in Australia. One for each state and the national one that sits over them known as ADRs (Australian Design Rules. To register a car in Australia, it must meet the ADRs that were in force when the car was manufactured. There are some over-riding ones such as re-drilling brake disc that came into force about 2010 and not restricted to the date the car was manufactured. If you move residency from one state to another (say Queensland to Tasmania), your car need to be re-registered. This is not normally an issue but the problems arise with th
  6. Andy Right on. I have had 13 years track work with my car and have not been out braked very often, given tire for tire. Brian
  7. Ian Good question. When I got this car, it was a 'kit car'. Came in boxes. When I started on the restoration I found that a lot of bits were missing. Virtually all the brake parts and steering. Down here, replacement original parts can be hard to get. Also my commencement of restoration was immediately after retirement so it became my project. I restored an ex race TR3A back in the 70's back to original. I continued on that course until I won our Nation Concourse. I later sold that car and purchased a 1962 Maserati 3500GTI. Bad move, should have kept the TR and gave the Maser a miss. Anyw
  8. They look just like mine. Unfortunately re-drilling disc is illegal for on road use in Australia. I chose the Voyager disc because it had the correct diam and same offset as the original TR3 disc. Also its center hole was smaller than the TRs which allowed machining to fit. That also is now illegal here. I had to machine the calipers to run on 26mm Voyager disc. I only reduced the calipers by 2mm and change my pads early. The remaining 6mm diff with the 22mm disc is a bit much. I am hoping not to have to machine the calipers again.
  9. Hi. I am looking for some replacement ventilated disc for my TR3A. My car is fitted with 4 Pot alloy calipers (Nissan Skyline GTR) that require 28mm disc. The ones I have been using for the past 21 years are re-drilled Chrysler Voyager. Current regs in Australia ban re-drilled disc so need a replacement. The Revington ones are 22mm. I could machine the calipers to take the thinner disc but would prefer not to. Can anyone suggest where I might get some
  10. Mick Sorry, my input was meant for Rog. You obviously are aware of the pitfalls. The issue of manifold stud/cylinder stud interference has been found on other members engines I have worked on. There are a lot of non spec studs out there. Brian
  11. Oh yes, this also makes it harder to remove the head.
  12. Mick Just a thought. Why are the two studs broken. I have found that some times these studs are screwed in very tight. As the threaded hole in the head goes through to the cylinder head studs, this brings the stud in contact to them. When you try and extract them, this contact may make it harder to extract. I certainly have came across this issue. Brian Richards
  13. Watched that video but you cant see any details of the flap he cut off. I bet it leaked. Interestingly the member here with the original hood also has a Robbins hood from the USA and it is the same as the original one. May try them and see if they still supply them. I will also investigate if my hood can be upgraded.
  14. G'day This is my first shot on this forum. I have a 1960 TR3A. This is a problem that I assume you have all sorted by now but this subject came up this week at a small get together. It was raining and I made the comment that I had a theory on why an original hood did not leak. This observation was made based on the hood fitted to one of our members TR3A which he has had since new. This related to a flap that was sewn across the front of the hood under the leading edge. I think this related to a TS option? Of the six TRs there, there were three different versions of this fla
  15. For what it is worth, I always use new studs when the old studs look like the originals. I use the ARP kit. Not much dearer than the aftermarket ones you get. After all they will most likely be there for some years if you get the job right the first time. Also pulling down to 100ft/lbs still makes me a little nervous. I just clamp my liners down to check the protrusion. Never had an issue with it. Lucky maybe. Brian
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