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Showing results for 'engine oil'.
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If you couldn't see any fuel in the jet it might be a clue as to why the engine stops Nick. Perhaps it has used up all that was there? You can usually see the glint of the liquid if you shine a torch down the hole. The float chamber might be full but if fuel isn't getting through to the jet properly, it can't run. After all, that is the thing you have been working on and sudden onset of a new fault afterwards might be a pointer to all not being well.........?.
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Hi Rob/All Update: Started the engine this afternoon with the now familiar 5-10 seconds of runtime before it faded away and stopped! I immediately checked the fuel level in the Float Chambers and both still had fuel in them - to approx the same level as before starting ...so I'm assuming the fuel pump is OK, and the Grose Jets. I removed the Chamber and Piston of both carbs; the fuel level in the jet you describe above - Is that in the small hole the Needle sits in? I couldn't see into the hole to gauge the fuel level - far too small or my aging eyesight! It certainly wasn't full.!!
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Why do you think I was so sure it was a timing issue? I rebuilt the engine on my 6 20yrs ago and can attest to the fact it will run backwards...
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Hi Malcolm. To be honest I haven't thought far enough ahead yet to work out whether to fit the engine and transmission before the body goes on as the body is going to take at least another couple of years, and the engine is going to need a rebuild. the gearbox and overdrive is sorted though! Slowly, slowly cachee monkee. Dave.
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I have a 4.0 litre Grinnall that is failing to start. There seems to be a lack of 12v to the coil (and incidentally the oil pressure switch too). All dash board lights are OK. The coil is mounted on the near side of the front bonnet support panel, it's a Lucas DLB102 which required a ballast resistor. There is no sign whatsoever of such a ballast resistor within the engine compartment and the wires feeding the coil (White and a white/black) go across to the offside of the engine compartment, along the chassis leg, up over the bell housing and into the passenger compartment near the glove
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Well I managed to fix this one, but there is still a question over the coil. Yes all the warning lights on the dash worked OK. To cut a really long story short, the feed to the combined coil, distributor, oil pressure switch (fuel pump), and electric choke, was open circuit under the dash by the fuse box. With a choice of two white wires floating around, the first must have had the ballast resistor in series as it only put 8 volts to the engine bay and the choke, and fuel pump didn't like that at all. The engine faltered too, the rev counter dropping back regularly through I guess la
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Only just read this thread, but I’m intrigued by the said bracket. I’ve read elsewhere that it’s to stop the engine moving forward, but why would Triumph be so bothered about that? Also, logically the larger end would surely face rearward, not forwards in that case. A safety device to stop the steering column moving back would make more sense to me, but then why only on the left side? Only required for the American market due to stricter safety regulations there maybe? Mike.
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I took my newly acquired 2.0L TR7 out this morning for a 30 mile trip. The temperature gauge only came up to 1/4. I measured the temperature with a contact probe either side of the thermostat and the top and bottom of the thermostat housing was 57 deg C. The radiator was cool (as I would expect if not up to temperature), as was the expansion bottle. I assume that there is no thermostat fitted at the moment. Any suggestions why the engine would be running so cool? I have a 400 mile round trip to Anglesy next weekend, and I'm a little concerned! OR, is this normal? TIA John P
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10 miles or 10yards still counts. Looking good after the engine-gearbox refit. I’m just a little envious of 4 garages !!! If your 2nd ( black) earth still earths you may need to make that yellow too. Just so it’s kills all elec should marshals need to cut it/them.
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My 'Drive It Day' drive was all of 10-yards out of the garage, the first run of my fully rebuilt engine. Just need to bed everything in prior to thrashing it up the Doune Historic Hillclimb, which is also the venue for the TR Register Scotland Weekend, in four weeks time. Cliff
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The engine/transmission was out last week for a clutch replacement (new plate, CRB, slave cylinder, pins) so I finally had time to insulate. What a huge difference it makes - had to turn in the heater today to keep my wife’s feet, legs warm Heres a couple pictures. Note different material as lining both sides of transmission tunnel consumed what I bought from eBay so blagged some from a friend. if you’ve not done it, absolutely recommend it and can’t wait for summer to come.
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I have made some progress but I still need help. The rattle noise is something moving according to the engine revs. It is not the rev. counter. Is there a part in the gearbox/overdirve which could be making a minor noise? or is this just normal. Maybe I should stop worrying ?? The gearbox has oil up to the top mark on the dipstick. The o/d relay has power from the ignition but all other contacts do not show any life. The two switches on the gearbox are also not showing any life. When you select the overdrive there is a click which does seem to be coming from this relay. So it lo
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Afternoon All So... I've made good progress and resolved the problem posted above. In dismantling everything and removing the stud (123) I discovered that a PO had put the studs in without the fibre washers (124) and with something that could have been PTFE tape on the thread! Giving everything a good clean, fitting new fibre washers and seals (118) has resolved the leak. I couldn't find any info on how tight to do up the nut (120) - I didn't want to over tighten and deform the rubber washers - but in the end I did everything up pretty tight! Sorted..! I now have a different problem
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Hi Dave...I am at a similar stage to you. Do you plan to fit the body before mounting the engine and transmission....[Much easier afterwards]. Also....I have private messaged you.
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Hi Tony welcome to the forum, any puddles (leaks) under the car or in the engine bay near the master cylinder. Roger
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I have managed to remove the gear box tunnel after the whole afternoon undoing the bolts. They are hard to reach even with a special small socket and handle. All the fixings are saved in two small plastic bags. The anti rattle spring looked to be in good condition but I will strip it down tomorrow The dip switch was difficult to release and I remember it being an awkward fix last time. So I drove for about one mile , down a country lane, with no cover. There are two faults The rattle noise is high pitched and related to the engine revs. Tomorrow I will disconnect the rev counter
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Hi Richard, what exactly is your gearbox doing? I'd have a think through on this, before you go whipping your gearbox out and shipping it off for whats likely to be £2k ish worth of work. The only thing common to all the gears is the gearlever. When you say all gears does this include reverse, and is it the same with the engine off? John.
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If you use it in one of Peter Burgess's engines you loose the warranty. He hates it and he is a top engine builder??? Bruce
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The “before” was after engine overhaul, so while doing the pre-start up testing I noticed this and corrected it. So it never gave me trouble. Waldi
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Hi, as my ‘6 doesn’t have the original throttle linkage, I am unable to set a fast idle during warm up. To solve this I have fitted a valve connected to the air slow running valve, with a cable on the dash to allow me to set the idle speed from the drivers seat as the engine warms up. The valve is a heater control valve, which works well to control the air intake. Maybe of interest, Mike
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Hi Marco, your comment made me think. There is indeed a difference between turning the entire body and turning the knurled nut! The latter changes the relative position between the finger and the dizzy cap pick-ups! So it is worth checking that the pick-ups are in line with the brass plate on the finger, not only at idle (static), but also when advanced. Would the below method be a sensible approach?: 1) Mark the exact position of one pick-up on the body (it does not matter much which one, but I suggest #1). 2)) Remove the dizzy cap and slowly rotate the engine (in r
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Forlife still appears to be available though not direct from the Forlife website - which features a TR6 on its home page - Is it different to the Evan’s waterless though ? - as it claims it “Provides exceptionally high heat transfer from engine to coolant and lower engine running temperature.” - it does look to have some additional additives to it and already looks to be mixed with water as it’s an “aqueous solution” - 1/3 the cost of Evan’s & with a 10 year life therefore looks cost effective. Worth putting in to avoid changing every few years? https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-216909-4-
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Most filter elements are bonded in to the cases, there is a good chance that the drop has broken away some of the adhesive so it is probable that your filter has become partially detached. That would be like poking a hole through the filter element allowing unfiltered oil through and into the engine. Do you still feel happy leaving it on?, I know I wouldn`t. Ralph
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I looked at an early TR3 today, Commission no TS9736. The certified copy of the factory production record gives the date of build as 9/1/56 and yet the date of first registration as shown on the duplicate of the original log book is given as 9/5/56, could the car maybe have been a dealer demonstrator? The Destination (dealer) on the factory record is Rossleigh Limited. Does that name mean anything to anyone? I note that the original registration number was issued in Sheffield. The duplicate log book gives the engine number as TS10152 (no mention of the 'E' suffix) but the car has engin
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A couple of questions for you Are you concerned about the noise and that it may harm your engine? How much is another oil filter? Buy one and shake that? Alternatively…..How much is a crank re grind plus shells? If I doubted the filter I would replace it for peace of mind If when the new replacement arrives and it too makes the same rattle, you can put the new filter on the shelf and leave the one you noted as rattling fitted to the car.
