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About steve redway
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That would have been me. I am not a fan and do not clamp hydraulic hoses for that reason.
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I changed the flexible braided clutch hose for a OEM type hard clear plastic sort today. The old braided hose from Goodridge is marked 22TR0240-026 and does not line up with anything on the Goodridge website. However cutting the pipe open revealed an inner of what is best described as the Goodridge 600 series hose range which is a PTFE lined hose, wrapped in a Stainless-Steel braid; designed for brake and clutch applications. So no rubber involved to degrade internally and form a one way valve. I could now look through the length of the hose and inspection of the inner walls showed
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Thank you Stuart your advice is much appreciated, There are two sorts of pipes available for this application. The original hard plastic/Teflon sort and the after market flexible braided hose. My guess is that the latter is a normal rubber pipe (prone to deteriation over time) covered with a protective braided outer. The original sort of course may well not suffer this one way flow issue, although it may split or become brittle after a time and loose fluid. As such I am reverting to the original specification for the car and have ordered a rigid hard plastic version.
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Here's a conundrum that I would appreciate my learned colleagues views on. I had an instance recently where the clutch on the TR7 would not release. That's right "release", not "engage". We had filled up with fuel at a garage, the vehicle was warm and went to drive away. In with the clutch, engage first gear. release clutch. Nothing. Engine running, clutch not engaged you could shift around all gears without crunch and go no where. It was apparent the clutch was stuck "on". Much pumping made no difference and it was only some while later the clutch returned (on it's own) to normal operati
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As no one has relpled to this question I shall post this diagram I have made of the three tag Oil Pressure Switch (OPS) fitted to my Grinnall V8 that I have worked out. I hope this may help others in the future who have the same question as I asked.
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Well the factory fitted hood on out 1981 gold TR7 is sort of coming to the end of it's life. It's a nice tan vinyl with black interior headlining. The question is does anyone have any recommendation as to a quality source of tan hoods, maybe even someone who might fit the hood too. Thanks in anticipation.
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Well I managed to fix this one, but there is still a question over the coil. Yes all the warning lights on the dash worked OK. To cut a really long story short, the feed to the combined coil, distributor, oil pressure switch (fuel pump), and electric choke, was open circuit under the dash by the fuse box. With a choice of two white wires floating around, the first must have had the ballast resistor in series as it only put 8 volts to the engine bay and the choke, and fuel pump didn't like that at all. The engine faltered too, the rev counter dropping back regularly through I guess la
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Today I have pinned down where the fault might be. Both the oil pressure switch and ignition circuitry are devoid of their +ve power. This is normally fed from the ignition switch in the run position. Also on this circuit is the heater blower and seat belt dash light, both of which work and illuminate correctly. Therefore it is possible that the 12v common point as I have highlighted in the attached drawing has failed. If it is the commoning of 6 white wires of which 2 of them (the ignition and oil switch) are open circuit. Which leaves a number of questions: Where is this 12v white
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Can anyone advise me of the correct wiring to the TR8 V8 oil pressure switch that runs the petrol pump as well as the low oil pressure light on the V8. There are 3 tags to the switch which has an internal change over switch and three wires, a white, a white.red and a white/brown. Not sure which way round they go. Also looking for a TR8 wirng diagram. Thnaks in anticipation.
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Thank you for your input guys. Just to clarify. There are just two wires going to the coil, distributor and Holley choke at the front of the vehicle. A white and a White/black. The distributor is in parallel with the coil and incoming pair and a single wire feeds the Holley choke which must have 12v on it to operate. There is no thick pink/white or yellow/white ballast resistance wire, so can only surmise that there is an actual ballast resistor in the white/black feed to the coil located somewhere under the dash maybe. Your comments regarding the starter relay seems int
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I have a 4.0 litre Grinnall that is failing to start. There seems to be a lack of 12v to the coil (and incidentally the oil pressure switch too). All dash board lights are OK. The coil is mounted on the near side of the front bonnet support panel, it's a Lucas DLB102 which required a ballast resistor. There is no sign whatsoever of such a ballast resistor within the engine compartment and the wires feeding the coil (White and a white/black) go across to the offside of the engine compartment, along the chassis leg, up over the bell housing and into the passenger compartment near the glove
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Sorry Guys but I have had to start this again as I am getting no where. Previously we didn't come to any conclusion that helped the issue, so i kicked it into touch and went on to do other jobs on the car like rebuilding the water pump. That's easy! But the same fault still exists and I have spent months trying to sort it: The HS6 carbs on our 2l TR7 are still impossible to tune. I cannot achieve any tick over below 1500rpm. Just to reiterate: 1 Original fault tick over a little fast 1000rpm. Putting pressure on front carb throttle spindle reduced tick over OK 2.Butterflie