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steve redway

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About steve redway

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  1. OK David, if you do located the HS6 carbs then let me know I am interested. E mail steveredway@aol.com Kind regards Steve
  2. I finally ran a ColourTune on the TR7 confirming that my initial lifting pin set up was more or less on the nail. Now need to run it before another tweaking. Referring to the Gunston ColoutTune, what a load of **** that is now. Its been through too many cost down exercises I am afraid and whilst it still does the job it is a very frail price of kit now and quite difficult to use on a TR7 cross flow head. Indeed I broke my new one on the first use! However the Gunston LT-77043 (The Laser version) 6 piece compression tester kit , well that is a quality price of kit that'll should last
  3. David, I am interested please PM me at steveredway@aol.com
  4. The engine is now fully assembled and it has been able to set the tick over at 750rpm with timing set at 10 degree BTDC at 800rpm. Job done. Just to complete this exercise here is the conclusion as we used to call it in our secondary school science experiments. Just to remind us. this all came about as the car would not run below 1100 rpm. Pushing on the front carb throttle arm reduced the tick over to an acceptable level so I concluded that the butterfly spindles were worn. Stripping and replacing the spindles and butterflies resulted in an un-adjustable 1500-1800rpm tick over, eve
  5. Nope, do it by ear. Not very sophisticated here
  6. Finally some progress. I ended up using a mix of old and new parts. New spindle at the front and old butterfly, plus old spindle and new butterfly at the rear. Dont ask me why, it just seemed to give me best fit. Both still showed slithers of light at different points. I filled the throats with oil and over a period of time none came through. Doing this with petrol of course caused it to drain through very slowly as expected. The gaskets between carbs, link plate and carb flexible mounting rubbers were greased this time and the mixture nuts on each carb set at 2 turns down from max
  7. Hi Dave, I guess that is exactly how the discs on both carbs have been set up as there is a fair bit of "adjustment" room within the spindle slot. My view is that on this pair of HS6s it is not possible to loose light completely down the throat with the butterflies closed. So one more try. I will take them apart again and replace the old spindles and old butterflies together and see what the result is. Regarding the three throttle return springs. My car too has only ever had one, but both Rimmers and "Original TR7" by Bill Piggott state that three were fitted/required. There ar
  8. Here's an odd one. The parts manual and other sources call for three throttle return springs Pt No 159463. My car has just one connected to the Throttle Lever/Link Rod - UKC6848 and the other end to the Bracket - Throttle Spring - UKC6168 which has three holes in it, for I presume three springs. The question is where do the other two springs attach to on the carbs and why has my car only one. One for the Anoraks I fear?
  9. Rob i now have the new spindles and new butterflies as good as it gets and am wondering about this slot business. Visually the spindle slot looks perfect. Burlen ship a lot of these kits and have a very good name, hence I would hardly expect these to be an issue with their machining of the spindle slot, but I do understand where you are coming from. Also on viewing the old butterflies the original shamfer is quite a rough affair, almost a punched edge (at an angle of course). These have been in the car for as long as we have had it without issue (that is until recently). So what I a
  10. ntc, Not so daft. Difficult to tell as they have an overrun poppet valve in them, so it's impossible to tell. Have tried old and new butterflies, neither seal and both emit light around the edges
  11. Well, I dont now whats wrong. I have taken the spindles and butterflies our cleaned carefully the throats and even reverted to using the old butterflies and still however I tweak them, I can see light around the edges. They just won't seal.
  12. I have been talking with Burlen. The numbers refer to the poppet valve, nothing else. He agreed that you should see no light through the throat and that air must be getting around/though the butterfly. So back to basics and take it apart yet again to see if it is at all possible to get t to sit better. I dont remember having this problem with butterflies before? Just whack em in and off you go.
  13. The carbs are the right way up, you can just see the top of the float bowls and emission outlets with the tyre valve caps on. If they were put in the other way then the chamfer on the butterfly would be the wrong way round? Now three more pictures. Pic 1 and 2 shows the markings on the butterfly. The new one in the carb is marked 15 and the old one taken out 22,5. Whats that all about then? Pic 3 shows the butterfly held open and a hole the air filter side of the carb. This hole is "plugged" by the back screw of the dash pot. It is the same on both carbs. What if it drew
  14. So here are the two carbs with light source down the front. As you can see on both front and rear there are slivers of light where the butterflies do not 100% meet the carb throat. Is this tiny amount enough to cause the problem? If so, i spent a long time trying to get it this good. I realise that the edges of the butterflies are chamfered, maybe they are in the wrong way round? Over to you for comments please
  15. OK Rob, have todays clue to chase. Standby for images Many thanks for everyone's assistance incidentally, you are all a great help :o)
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