Jump to content

Willie

TR Register Members
  • Content Count

    185
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About Willie

  • Birthday May 11

Profile Information

  • Location
    Hereford
  • Cars Owned:
    Trevor the TR4

Recent Profile Visitors

364 profile views
  1. When I experienced the Surrey vinyl deciding to come adrift from its dodgy fitment under the windscreen capping, I decided to secure the vinyl in place with a couple of bolts. I inserted eyelets in the vinyl, and used chromed bolts, domed nuts, and rubber sealing washers. The bolt heads don't stansd out that much! A couple of shots attached. Best wishes Willie
  2. Hi Stuart, the etching has dot over T and dot under O. Does that mean Jan to March 1962? Willie
  3. Well, I got there, but a bit disappointed at what I found! This tag is stamped 2/6. That might be too close as a special order for the assembly date of 10/7 [1964]. Does anyone know if tags were affixed so close to an order being met? As to the two outside awkward fitments, they were obviously left off when the car was given bodywork repairs in 2006 by a well known TR specialist. I think I'll do likewise!! Willie
  4. I'll post a shot of mine when/if I get it! I basically want to confirm that this is the original backlight fitted at the factory according to Heritage Cert. Willie
  5. No, Tom, I want to find the manufactured date cast underneath. Just a harmless obsession of mine! I tried pulling the trim but it feels solid. The Bentley workshop manual shows to pull back what appears to be the glass retaining rubber [5.215 fig 23], but it makes me nervous without seeing that it is correct! Willie
  6. Hi Everyone, I sincerely hope this finds you all free from the dreaded. Bored in self isolation, one job I want to undertake is removal of the backlight. I know where to find the 7 nuts which attach tot studs in the frame, but how do I access the nuts screwing down on to studs from the bodywork on either end? I attach a shot of the offside with the trim panel removed. I don't appear to have the small filler trim panels on this car. There is a join in the which covering, but it is glued down and part of the whole as it appears to me. Can anyone please show me the way! Apologies for the handwriting!! Very best of health to you all Willie
  7. I later found the serial number exactly where yours appears to be! Mine too is BT and the umbers sequence is close-ish to the commissionnumber. My thoughts now are that late in the production run on TR4's [mine built July 1964] the factory had used up the live axles and started to use the TR4A live axle casings which do not have a drain plug. See shot of my serial number exposed through the powder coating after much searching! Best wishes Willie
  8. Hi Iain, Do you have a pic of the vent? Here are a couple of shots of my cap. Best wishes Willie
  9. Thanks Roger. I haven't noticed any sucking sound, but the gauge does read low when the car is in motion! Does that Indicate a problem? I expected to find a small hole in the filler which had been blocked by waxing the car, but none evident, hence my original Q. How does a normal set up vent the tank?
  10. Hi Everyone, A quick set of related questions. Whilst draining the aluminium fuel tank on my 1964 TR4 ready to install R9 grade fuel hose everywhere, I hadn't opened the fuel tank cap and noticed that when I did it hissed as the lid was raised. The tank was less than half full. Is there a vent anywhere? Do I have anything to worry about? I am hoping that flow to standard layout Strombergs will not lead to disaster in normal flow demand from the tank. Am I correct, or is there a vent somewhere that I need to sort out? Fuel cap is standard flip up type. Best wishes Willie
  11. To end this topic, here are shots of the final springs layout. Good rear double spring relocated to front. Drilled out TR6 double spring located on front. I am awaiting a further supply of 0.010" shims to complete the alignment of all rockers. As I am renewing all rockers, I am going to test all of them in different positions tomorrow to see if I can improve overall alignments. I will report further if anything of interest emerges. There is evidence of tempering on the arms suggesting heat to achieve final shape.The findings might be useful!! Sorry all the labels are upside down! Willie
  12. Thanks for that Chris. No sign of irregular wear whatsoever! Willie
  13. Thanks again for those recent posts. The reason why I examined the rocker gear in the first place was to find the cause of a loud clicking which is louder than the tappet noise and quite obviously emanating from top front of the engine. The timing chain was renewed earlier this year, to no avail. The only questionable part I found was that the front double coil spring looked to have lost its spring tension. Whilst still in situ, I thought I would find it to have broken but it hadn't. As mentioned earlier, these springs are currently unavailable from all the major suppliers, hence me looking at alternatives. One option might be to add a thin 5/8 washer with the weak spring and put it next to #8 rocker. I can't imagine that will move the noise to the rear!! The #1 rocker is covering the valve stem, but is obviously biased to the side nearest #1 pedestal. I would like to have it better aligned, hence yesterday's question about shims. Willie
  14. Thanks Tom. The reason for asking is that on my engine the double spring washer is firmly compressed yet the rocker arm needs to move slightly into the space taken up by said double coil spring! Shims are 0.010"; double spring is at least 0.25" in relaxed state I am hoping someone has experience of leaving the spring off and using a washer or shim instead. Willie
  15. Good day All, back to my original approach for advice! I have succeeded in removing the rocker shaft end caps and I have achieved fitting of split pins [1/8" x 1 1/2"] by rubbing them down with emery paper to be a snug fit with no movement. I thought the front double coil end cap spring had broken. This is not the case, but I did discover that these springs are out of stock everywhere and Moss currently have not found a supplier. TR6 springs are smaller in diameter, but having purchased a couple of TR6 items, I succeeded in drilling the TR6 washer out to 16mm plus a bit of filing to slide on to the TR4 shaft. Pic attached to show the remarkable difference in size, the TR4 item being the larger. Now I have the new rocker shaft put together using spacer kit instead of springs, my son & I have been assessing where the shims supplied with the kit should go before the rocker gear is bolted back on. At the site of the loud clicking noise pre-disassembly - the front of the engine - #1 rocker looks to be slightly too far to the left, but the double coil spring [the proper TR4 one] prevents appropriate adjustment. Question - can I leave the double spring washer off at the front and use shims instead? Shot attached showing how firmly the washer is compressed with #1 pedestal on the stud. Best wishes Willie
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.