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Showing results for 'engine oil'.
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I took the car out this morning for a decent drive really to see if the lack of power problem occurred again over 40 miles in mixed traffic conditions never missed a beat. However I am not that lucky and will take it further next week and try again. However once I had cleared some of the traffic and started to drive reasonably hard up a steep A road I noticed the oil pressure seam to have dropped. backing off I took note of various revs V oil pressure. When I descended the other side of the hill into a local town I could check the gauge reading. 1000 RPM 10 PSI/ 2000 RPM 30 PSI /30
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Hi, I’d appreciate some advice on my 1970 TR6 clutch problems.......... I rebuilt my TR6 over lockdown. ‘New’ chassis and body, swapping the engine and box over from one chassis to the other without doing anything major to them because they were working perfectly, and they have been undisturbed for at least 24 years with fairly limited mileage. My first big drive was to Malvern last year when I found getting into 2nd gear difficult, especially going down from 3rd . Since then it has been getting progressively worse, to the point where it is no fun driving it. I’ve tried a few fi
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Good Morning All, Does anyone have any experience or tips for installing the engine back into a TR7, ie engine and gearbox together from the top, engine in from the top and then fit the gearbox from underneath, engine and gearbox together from underneath (obviously requires removal of the front subframe etc.). Thanks for any info. Cliff
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Low oil pressure or faulty oil pressure gauge!! TR4A
tim hunt replied to phil Dean's topic in TR4/4A Forum
+1. Rob just beat me to it. I have had this issue in the past on my 4A. The pressure relief valve is located in the oil filter head and consists of a valve body incorporating a seating for a ball normally held on the seating by a spring, held in the valve body by a threaded adjuster. This adjuster is turned clockwise to increase the relief valve opening pressure and anti-clockwise to reduce it. When the adjustment was correct it was set at the factory by a lock nut secured to the PRV body by a piece of lead wire. In 47 years I have never found it necessary to alter the adjustment on my e -
Battery terminals - bulkhead or engine side
keith1948 replied to keith1948's topic in General TR Technical
I am currently considering this Yuasa battery It is 243mm long x 175W x 190H and is 62Ah and 550CCA. The terminals are recessed into the top and set back from the front so little chance of the hold down bracket touching where it shouldn't. My present battery is an 078 and 235 x 175 x 180 so similar size and 55Ah and 490CCA so similar rating. Price around £85. Personal preference is to have terminals engine side so they are easily accessible. The labels are not too flashy for a classic and the case is black so again a reasonable appearance. The Yuasa range seems to have a good reputation. -
Spa Summer Classic 2024 (better spring classic)
Dave McDonald replied to MadMarx's topic in TR Motorsport
Hamish, 4th, no overdrive. Rev limit at 7400 rpm but try to not exceed 7200. Tyres 205 60 15. After being joint 2nd quickest top speed (not lap time) the following year on 205.7kph in qualifying I broke the cam sprocket off the end of the camshaft on the first lap of the first race, due to harmonic crank vibrations at high revs. Weekend over. For the last visit in 2022 I used a 3.9 diff to reduce engine revs slightly. Weather was wet so speeds well down but no engine issues. Fingers crossed for this year with 3.9 diff and newly refreshed engine. Dave McD -
Battery terminals - bulkhead or engine side
Colin Symonds replied to keith1948's topic in General TR Technical
I have an Exide 955 on my 4a, positive driver's side and terminals engine side, I do have shrink wrap on the hold down. -
Just mounted the chassis on its supports on the bench, ready for the body rebuild, and have a few questions which I'm hoping you can help me with. 1st. would it be a good idea to load the chassis with say sand bags to simulate the engine and gearbox weight (as suggested by Roger Williams in his book- 'How to restore Triumph TR5/250 & 6').? 2nd. I'll probably find out in due course, but looking at the attached photos - what goes into the threaded holes on the top T shirt? there doesn't seem to be any sort of bolt or screw shown on the parts diagram. (circled) 3rd. This is
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Pump is in the boot.Red top facet. regulator was on the advice of Mass who built the engine and set it up on the rolling road. Roy
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The PO fitted the additional oil feed pipe after the rocker shaft wore badly / prematurely on the rebuilt engine. I'm looking for a simple method to regulate the oil flow that the pipe supplies so some of the additional lubriction can be retained. Has anyone found a good/ simple method to add a restriction of some kind into the pipe or banjo union ? Many thanks Bob
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There is a way to determine if it is safe to add the external oil supply. You need a oil pressure gauge to be fitted Warm up the engine, properly. This can take twenty minutes to half an hour of road running before the oil is fully heated. If you don't have an oil temp gauge, then run until the oil pressure AT IDLE is at its lowest. Fit the external supply. This need not take long to do, and the oil will not cool down that quickly. Run the engine again, observe the oil pressure at idle. If it has fallen from before, then the external oil supply will KILL YOUR CRANKSHAFT
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Not on a standard properly built engine no. Stuart.
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Hi looking for a tr4 oil filter head, to buy Pink
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Voltage Regulator ? Out for drive it day on Sunday with Forth & Borders Group touring and lunching in the glorious Scottish Borders and unfortunately one of our members cars stopped and looking for some advice here ! There appears to have been a live wire with a connector spade attached underneath the dash, which caused quite a firework display ! Car stopped and only way to get it running was a jumper wire from the solenoid to the ignition fuse. The fuse itself is ok, NO power on either side. Downloaded a circuit diagram, and found (with a multimeter) the following: E - c
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. The clearance you want is detailed in the service manual and how to establish. Most recent engine I did needed 3 gaskets to get the setting. Item 5 here
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If I had oil drops under my car roughly in the area between the engine and gearbox (I am asking for a friend ) and the following root causes can be excluded: - crankshaft seal (no oil in the clutch area, no oil coming out of the bottom hole of the bellhousing) - valve cover (I am using the improved silikone version and have to oil leak in this area ever since) - crank case breather (open system, but no oil in in the outlet area) - oil pan seal (exchanged, cleaned checked lately - no oil visible in that area) What else could be a potential leakage are ?
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Rear seal will not always show from the bell housing. Most oil leaks from the rear of the engine, I have found, show around the plate fixed to the front of the bell housing at the back of the sump. Leaks can come from rear oil seal, around the rear main bearing cap, cam welsh plug, main oil gallery blanking plug as well as leaks from all over the engine as the oil always seems to get the the back of the sump. I suspect a lot of rear crank seal leaks are in fact from around the read main bearing cap. This has been my experience. To properly check that you need to remove gearbox and flywhee
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Battery terminals - bulkhead or engine side
Richardtr3a replied to keith1948's topic in General TR Technical
I had this dilemma when I needed a new battery.. I finally fitted a new battery from Lincon Batteries, Leigh-on-sea., Essex It is badged E14 and has the terminals on the bulkhead side with the earth strap on the passenger side ( my TR3A is rhd.) The makers label is on the engine side. It was delivered and has been very reliable for a long time. There is access to allow some top up when serviced. It also looks correct. Good luck Richard & B -
2 screws for the ignition coil 3 screws for the generator bracket 2 or 3 (?) bolts of both aluminum bridges over the crankshaft ….the whole engine
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Battery terminals - bulkhead or engine side
keith1948 replied to keith1948's topic in General TR Technical
Thanks for your thoughts Rob. I once had one of those batteries with lead straps on the top. Only once! Disconnecting the earth did not render the top of the battery safe. I dropped a spanner on it once and luckily managed to remove it before it welded itself to the top. I might have to go the route of terminals next to bulkhead since I can't seem to find a battery locally with a T1 terminal layout. Would not be the first time I have had terminals next to bulkhead. Would prefer battery label on engine side so I can see it but might have to have it hidden at the back. Keith -
I just spotted your distributor timing is 180 degrees out compared to standard. If it does not confuse you or the person who services the car leave well alone. To Rectify. With the engine set on No 1 firing remove the housing and distributor. The drive gear drops in with the keyway starting at 90 degrees to the engine block. As it rotates into the cam gear the drive slot of the gear ends up pointing at NO1 spark plug.....unless whoever built the distributor put the offset drive dog on wrong. Refit the housing with as thick a gasket pack as came out as that sets the end float of t
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Gave up trying to stop TR leaks ages ago! As the oil is blown back from my timing cover, oil filter fitting, front of engine, back of engine & heavens knows where else it has lubricated the underneath & chassis wonderfully & said underneath is pristine with no rust!
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My 'other' classic driver is a Daimler 250 ..a Mk2 Jaguar with the Daimler 2.5 ltr V8 engine. Although not specific to a TR forum some one here may be able to advise as the servo is of the period. It is a remote unit fitted half way under the front OS inner wheel arch and so access to it is a pain. On my car the braking system was reconditioned two years ago, before I bought the car, and it's all looking to be in good order. The fault my car has is that brake servo appears to stick at the top of the pedal and then releases suddenly with too much braking force (rather than a smooth
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hi, I have a 1960 tr3a rebuild project on the go and the starter motor that came in a box of bits with it appears to be the bomb type..tried repairing it to no avail so I am looking to replace it. The engine no.is TS74110 but everything I am reading seems to point to the newer type starter..if I just replaced it with a generic wosp high torque would that work or do I need a specific one of those.? I am scratching my head at the moment.!
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Good morning, i own a TR4 A that came with Webers. I had the engine and the carbs rebuilt and everything runs as it should except 2 small issues. 1 - idle goes up to 1500rpm from time to time (suspect some fuel find its way at idle) 2 - after the last run (i have maybe 250 miles post rebuilt - weather was quite hot Saturday like 26 degrees) i did hear the infamous pcchht of fuel hitting a hot object after shutting down the engine, and did see that the front carbs was leaking at the inlet manifold for a minute or 2, no big leak just a drop every 5 seconds. I suspect fuel he
